Hand Tool Lube/Grease?

[Stuey]

I believe this has been discussed before, but I cannot find the thread.

I have several tools that could use a bit less friction. One example are my adjustable wrenches which are incredibly difficult to adjust - the thumb-wheel is very difficult to spin.

I was considering using 3-in-1 oil, but it's not really the best subtance to get on one's hands. I was also thinking about something a bit more viscous.

Any suggestions? At the same time, what could be used for other moving tools? I've noticed that some pliers have a nice thick oil on them when I open the package, or is that more for corrosion inhibition than ease of use?

 

[Bolster]

Hey Stuey, before you lube your adj wrench, try taking it apart and cleaning the inside "race" with a bottlebrush and some paint thinner or what have you. HF has brass and stainless round brushes that work great for this.

Reason I mention this is I have a big adj wrench that was basically not working for me (same problem as yours), and a disassembly/cleaning got it working slick again, with no lube needed. Problem was dried gunk in the 'raceways' (or whatever they're called). Just a thought.

A bit off topic, but if you're ever in the need for a very human-friendly oil, such as lubricating a folding knife that you will use to cut food, mineral oil is the ticket.

 

[64merc]

Hey Stuey, before you lube your adj wrench, try taking it apart and cleaning the inside "race" with a bottlebrush and some paint thinner or what have you. HF has brass and stainless round brushes that work great for this.

Reason I mention this is I have a big adj wrench that was basically not working for me (same problem as yours), and a disassembly/cleaning got it working slick again, with no lube needed. Problem was dried gunk in the 'raceways' (or whatever they're called). Just a thought.

A bit off topic, but if you're ever in the need for a very human-friendly oil, such as lubricating a folding knife that you will use to cut food, mineral oil is the ticket.

Very good suggestion.

Another possibility is that the "thumb screw" is in backwards. Some of them are meant to go in one direction only. I bought a used Urrea cheap one time because of this.

 

[Stuey]

I examined the tools, and there is nothing in the raceway (so THAT's what it's called!). Meanwhile, my cheapo Stanley pair is smooth as ever.

Once I get the Crescents moving, it self-lubricates a bit somehow and is easier to operate, until the next time I need them, of course.

I didn't think about mineral oil. I believe I have a bottle to season my cutting board with. Maybe I'll try oiling my leathermans just to see how well this method works. Thanks for the tip!

64merc, ironically I've heard of that problem, but I'm sure that's not the case with these.

 

[Stuey]

Bump......

 

[Red Green]

I use WD-40

 

[Uncle Buck]

Don't forget graphite, a hell of a mess, but slick as snot! Also spray silicone is great also.

 

[Stuey]

Graphite really is nasty stuff to handle. Hmm, I do have silicone spray...

But what do manufacturers throw on/in pliers?

 

[bchee]

If you're worried about 3-in-1 on your skin I would guess that most of the stuff sold in bottles or aerosol spray would not be good for your skin, like silicone.

I was going to recommend 3-in-1. What about permatex engine assembly lube?

 

[Bolster]

I didn't think about mineral oil. I believe I have a bottle to season my cutting board with. Maybe I'll try oiling my leathermans just to see how well this method works. Thanks for the tip!

I forgot to add, the downside is that you need to re-oil pretty frequently with mineral oil.

 

[Stuey]

I forgot to add, the downside is that you need to re-oil pretty frequently with mineral oil.

Hmm, that is a pretty bad downside.

I'm just trying to find something relatively non-toxic so that I can handle the tools with having to wash up every few minutes.

I might give the magical red assembly lube a try one of these days.

What about general purpose lithium grease? (not the white kind).

 

[64merc]

Is 3-in-1 that bad for you? I use it all the time and just wipe my hands with a rag. I also started using Boeshield T-9.

 

[Stuey]

http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-3in58412697.pdf

It's not terrible, but they put a warning on the bottle.

 

[speed bump]

If your adjustables are difficult to adjust I would leave them like that. Adjustable without a lot of friction tend to get loose during use. I have a big diamond crescent that you can barely adjust but I love it that way because I can set it and it will stay that way all day long.

 

[autoace]

I just use some WD40, or PB blaster, and work them, if stiff let it soak after application.

 

[Merkava_4]

What are the different parts of an adjustable wrench anyway, can anyone name them?

 

[eschoendorff]

What are the different parts of an adjustable wrench anyway, can anyone name them?

The handle, the screw, the thingie, the doohicky and the whatchamacallit.

 

[MAD]

The handle, the screw, the thingie, the doohicky and the whatchamacallit.

Don't forget the "loose nut" at the end of the wrench.

 

[Uncle Buck]

Don't forget graphite, a hell of a mess, but slick as snot! Also spray silicone is great also.

Graphite really is nasty stuff to handle. Hmm, I do have silicone spray...

Ya, Ya, das what I said!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[three arms]

Try the gun store. I use an aerosol for guns that has Teflon in it. Works real boss for sticky whatevers, including drawer slides. Be forewarned, however, they don't give it away.

 

[Stuey]

Ya, Ya, das what I said!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My comments were in response to yours. Basically, I was in agreement!

 

[old salvage]

I've bought a bunch of used adjustables and they are just like ratchets in that they never work well as is. I always have to take them apart and clean them.
Crud (dirt and dried oil/grease mix) can be in the raceway, in the teeth of the movable jaw, in the grooves of the thumbwheel or inside the thumbwheel where the pin goes through.

 

[64merc]

I've bought a bunch of used adjustables and they are just like ratchets in that they never work well as is. I always have to take them apart and clean them.
Crud (dirt and dried oil/grease mix) can be in the raceway, in the teeth of the movable jaw, in the grooves of the thumbwheel or inside the thumbwheel where the pin goes through.

I always have to do the same thing. I have noticed something annoying though lately. The newer Crescent brand adjustables are not made to be taken apart. I'm sure you could if you really wanted to but the screw is not intended to be removed.

 

[r6_cannibal]

I just ordered a bottle of militec-1 for a thin-head c-man ratchet. I would think it would do quite well with this application. It's synthetic, but so is the permatex stuff.
A guy I knew several years ago had issues with 3in1 oil drying out his hands and used olive oil on his tools. I'm not recommending this as I've never tried it, but it might be something to consider and would make your tools taste good

 

[81Seca]

Agreed about the cleaning being most important. If you cant/dont want to disasssemble, a blast of brake parts cleaner will usually do. Afterwards. I usually use a "dry" type lube (RemLube, Dupont Gen Purpose with Teflon, etc) on adj wrenches.

 

[riley.m]

if you cant take it apart,why not not use a soft wire wheel on a die grinder.i have done it a few times without scratching my crescent,and also turn down the rpm's so that it is a little easier to control.

 

[mkdive]

break free CLP is "DA" bomb!

 

[old salvage]

I always have to do the same thing. I have noticed something annoying though lately. The newer Crescent brand adjustables are not made to be taken apart. I'm sure you could if you really wanted to but the screw is not intended to be removed.

Hmmm.
Maybe they are like the newer Williams adjustables. The pins are spring loaded not threaded. To dis-assemble you push the pin in with a drive pin punch or something and push the thumb wheel out sideways.
I think I was actually lit when I figured that out and it was by accident.

 

[drivesitfar]

I use TriFlow that you can buy a little bottle online or at a local bicycle shop for about $5 or in a spray can like WD at a hardware store. a drop or shot of that works great and it doesn't dry up like WD or mineral oil.

http://www.triflowlubricants.com/

I found this old thread while I was looking for best lubricant or grease for the vise screws and moving parts to other items in the shop we use. anybody have a favorite.

 

[Stuey]

In the 5 years minus a day since I started this thread, I have taken to using non-toxic bike lube and non-toxic knife lube for smaller pivots.

 

[monomach]

I let 'em sit in a bucket of transmission fluid overnight, then wipe them off really well in the morning. The detergents in the fluid clean the tool and the oil itself lubricates moving parts and protects everything from rust.

 

[Stokes_]