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Handheld CO/gas detector?

n8n

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Mar 11, 2014
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Curtis Bay, MD
good afternoon everyone

well, this morning was fun. Just for background, I live in a row house that was built in the 1990s sometime and it appears to have the original HVAC but a newish gas water heater. Landlady likes me I think because I'm handy so I save her $$ on stuff that I can take care of myself. Have one housemate, a lovely African woman (this isn't a race thing, will explain in a minute) and her young son who's a cool little kid. Anyway I'm on the 2nd floor, they are in the basement where laundry, HVAC, WH all are. Stove is gas as well but I'm pretty sure this is irrelevant to the discussion.

Anyway, I woke up this morning and was quite warm. Looked at my phone on the Nest app (there is a 3rd gen Nest thermostat, and that was my second project after moving in, getting that working correctly, right after repairing the washing machine, so everything is set up on my account) apparently housemate had woken up, was cold (heat is set to 67 degrees @ 5 AM) so turned the heat up to 70-something. So, I guess while I was miserable all summer she was actually comfortable as the AC struggled to cool the house below the high 70s... while now that it's cool-ish, my comfortable is apparently unpleasantly cold for someone who grew up in Sierra Leone. Ah well, such is life, I can deal. I grunted and blinked my way into the shower and barely got some soap on me when the CO alarms start going off. These are newish (I installed them when I moved in, early summer) First Alert/BRK SC7010B-3 combination photoelectric/CO alarms which I purchased because the existing smoke alarms appeared to be original to the house, and the one in the basement was missing. There's three of them, one on each level in the hallway (we weren't required to have them within the bedrooms back when this place was built, otherwise there'd be four more... ugh. Damn things are so expensive, too, and they've apparently gone up in price significantly in less than six months, but I digress.) Couldn't not have them because a) life safety is what I do for a living so having a missing smoke alarm would just be wrong and b) when I changed my renter's insurance I was specifically asked about smoke alarms, sprinkler, and the presence of fire extinguishers (the latter I also provided, thankfully I was able to get those from work so that was much less painful) which I never have been before.

So anyway, now I suspect that the furnace needs to be serviced and possibly the heat exchanger is cracked, although hopefully it's just a matter of adjusting the flame. 2nd possibility in my mind is that because I was taking a nice hot steamy shower while the furnace was on, somehow the water heater wasn't venting properly but being drawn into the HVAC return, although again if it were burning right the exhaust should be relatively clean. EDIT: now that I think about that I think this is unlikely as I had the HVAC fan set to run 15 minutes every hour and also if that were the issue it would have shown up with the AC running. So I'm back to it's likely the furnace either needing adjustment or a new heat exchanger. Neither one of us were using the stove/oven or drying laundry when this went off (and oddly, I actually cleaned all the stove burners over the weekend in a fit of domestic activity and as part of a more general kitchen clean-up). I'm certain that this is above the level of my actually wanting to make repairs but I am now curious how I could troubleshoot should the issue occur again.

Again, I've had the new combo smoke/CO alarms installed since June and this is the first time the CO has gone off (and the smoke has never gone off) since I installed them. Heat has been on a couple times already but I think there's only been one day looking at Nest history where it's run more than an hour a day - that's another weird thing about this house, it will not cool off, it stays ~70F or more even when it's in the 50s outside, not sure if it's solar heating, heat creeping in from next door neighbors who like it much warmer, or what.

I just spent my lunch break purchasing two electric space heaters off FBMP in case we have to shut down the furnace (I kept thinking I should buy some just in case but never wanted to spend the money; fortunately a nice gentleman had three less than 10 miles from my office and he'd only sold one by the time I reached out to him) but beyond that I am not sure what I can do. I see that there's hand held CO meters available from Klein, Extech, Triplett, etc. in the $100-150 range, and also some less expensive generic ones. Would one of those be a worthwhile buy to try to pinpoint where the issue may be? What kind of meter would a professional use in this situation? Is there such a thing as one that will detect both CO and natural gas? (I remember I had a plug in one at my last place that would do both which seems like would be a handy thing to have in a handheld) Are the CO sensor parts generally replaceable? I know that typically any CO detector is not guaranteed to work after 10 years because they have a finite lifespan.

I'm thinking that any issue will likely be a "call a professional" type situation. But, I can't resist wanting to do my own troubleshooting so landlady doesn't get taken to the cleaners by repair guy. Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
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cannuck

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Nov 30, 2021
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Rural SK
A regular 4 gas meter will do CO directly and identify methane from LEL detection of combustible gas. In any case, there is NO WAY a furnace adjusted to anything should be venting CO into the living spaces. You can't "adjust" that away - you have either a leaking combustion chamber or blocked chimney vent. DO NOT run the furnace unless you are inspecting with SCBA and an otherwise empty house - or at least carrying a "bumped" 4 gas meter.
 
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n8n

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Mar 11, 2014
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Curtis Bay, MD
A regular 4 gas meter will do CO directly and identify methane from LEL detection of combustible gas. In any case, there is NO WAY a furnace adjusted to anything should be venting CO into the living spaces. You can't "adjust" that away - you have either a leaking combustion chamber or blocked chimney vent. DO NOT run the furnace unless you are inspecting with SCBA.

So what would you suggest? I am more of a wrench spinner kind of guy, if I'm going to buy something I wouldn't know where to start looking. I know the difference between Snap-On, Mac, Proto, Harbor Freight, etc. but not a dang thing about this kind of test equipment.

I had a strong "flu" smell. My local volunteer fire department was happy to come out and pinpoint the problem. The guy even diagnosed the problem pretty accurately.

Pretty sure this is a HE with an inducer fan. I will have to see if I can get to the inlet/exhaust without a ladder - I know it's on the back of the house, I think underneath the deck, but I honestly never really traced it out.
 

cannuck

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ask someone at nearest fire hall for advice and/or assistance - ask for the hazmat guy (or gal).
 
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n8n

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Curtis Bay, MD
ask someone at nearest fire hall for advice and/or assistance - ask for the hazmat guy (or gal).

I didn't think of that but that's a good idea. My boss is also the fire chief for the town he lives in and I asked him, he said their meter is Industrial Scientific which is over $500 :/ and it turns out he has a personal one but of course it's currently out for calibration. Figures...

I guess I'll just get one of the inexpensive ones and go from there.
 

PCustoms

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VT
Call an actual furnace technician and tell the landlord to pony up.

You had to install detectors as a tenant? WTF
 
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n8n

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Curtis Bay, MD
Call an actual furnace technician and tell the landlord to pony up.

You had to install detectors as a tenant? WTF

Part of the deal is that I take care of what I can around the house, landlady is happy she just has to pay for parts and **** gets done right, flip side is I get cheap rent which I desperately need these days.

I do agree that once I figure out if there is a real issue/not a false alarm and what it is, anything gas I'm not touching. I also want to have a clue what may be going on because I know landlady doesn't know her way around a furnace.
 
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brewchief

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Some pics of the furnace and water heater and their respective venting would be helpful, model and serial numbers on furnace if possible as well.
 

bonneyman

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Desert SW
I used a Tif 8800 combustible gas detector for years. Mostly for natural gas leaks, but also for combustibles in the customer space. Like this one:

Later on I went to a UEI CO71A. Cost then about $170. Needed calibration every 3 years (about $100) but I still have it.

I think the local gas company used a fancy Bacharach unit, but it was crazy expensive.
 

tmp

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Sep 12, 2023
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I understand the impulse to want to make sure it’s a real issue before you waste time / money. But to be honest you really should just call a pro immediately. Remember that it’s not just your life at stake here, it’s also your neighbor and her young son.
 

danski0224

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Jan 29, 2005
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Near Naperville, IL
First Alert/BRK SC7010B-3 combination photoelectric/CO alarms
If you have consumer grade CO detectors going off, then you have a problem.

The relevant part in the paragraph shortage wall of text is the mention that the CO detectors go off shortly after entering a warm shower.

If the furnace is new enough to be induced draft, it is exceedingly difficult to set off a CO detector without having flame rollout that's bad enough to trip the limit switches and shut it down (or burn up the wiring).

A generic personal CO monitor is not intended as a life safety device. Nor is a combustion analyzer. One of those is a couple hundred, the other is approaching a grand or more.

You would be better off calling the non emergency fire department number and asking them, or ask the gas company to come out.

The alternative is dying of CO poisoning.
 

rlitman

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Long Island
...Pretty sure this is a HE with an inducer fan...
Every one of those I've seen uses pressure switches to prove the airflow is sufficient. You mentioned the shower. Does your shower have an exhaust fan? Could it be strong enough (and the structure well sealed enough) to be pulling exhaust back in? Could it be pulling in a neighbor's exhaust?

CO detectors can be fooled by flammable vapors. Acetone (nail polish remover), propane (aerosol propellant), natural gas, even some paints. You are positive it was a CO alert and not smoke?

I didn't think of that but that's a good idea. My boss is also the fire chief for the town he lives in and I asked him, he said their meter is Industrial Scientific which is over $500 :/ and it turns out he has a personal one but of course it's currently out for calibration. Figures...
Do they have a "rainbow" pulse oximeter that can detect CO in your blood? CO exposure can be detected for days, so if you have an ongoing issue, YOU can get tested.
 
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n8n

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Curtis Bay, MD
Every one of those I've seen uses pressure switches to prove the airflow is sufficient. You mentioned the shower. Does your shower have an exhaust fan? Could it be strong enough (and the structure well sealed enough) to be pulling exhaust back in? Could it be pulling in a neighbor's exhaust?

yes, oddly neither bathroom in this house has a window so both have little fart fans. Just builder grade Broan things though, and I seriously doubt a fan on the 2nd floor would **** enough to affect either the furnace or the water heater in the basement.

CO detectors can be fooled by flammable vapors. Acetone (nail polish remover), propane (aerosol propellant), natural gas, even some paints. You are positive it was a CO alert and not smoke?

100%. I am not always smart but due to what I do, I am 100% certain that this was the NFPA "code 4" CO pattern not the "temporal 3" smoke pattern. What I'm not 100% on is which detector went off but I think it was the basement as I did not see a red light on either the 2nd floor or 1st floor detectors as I walked under them. I do have a can of acetone in the linen closet (2nd floor) but it is sealed, don't have propane, natural gas is a possibility as the furnace, WH, and stove all use it, but I didn't detect any gas smell. I do now have flammable gas detection as well as CO (see below)

Do they have a "rainbow" pulse oximeter that can detect CO in your blood? CO exposure can be detected for days, so if you have an ongoing issue, YOU can get tested.

I don't have any idea, that fire house is about an hour from me. This is the first time I've heard a CO alarm though since I installed the detectors ~6 months ago.

I did stop and get a plug-in CO and flammable gas detector on the way home from work and set it on a desk in the basement just outside the utility closet. That way if we get another alarm I can cross check it with the plug in which will have a PPM readout. Plus having the gas detector can't hurt. Cheapie handheld showed up actually last night and is reading 0 PPM as is the plug in. I reprogrammed thermostat to bring the house up to 70F at 5 AM so furnace briefly ran this morning (it dropped to 69F overnight - I woke up before 5 AM this morning so of course I looked - overnight setpoint is 65F)
 

HoosierBuddy

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Southern Indiana
I much prefer the co detectors with digital readouts as they give you actual data.

The ones that are audio alarm only just tell you a threshold has been reached (as low as 35 PPM but perhaps higher). The digital are going to give you the same audible alarm plus data.

CO Basics:
  • 9 ppm (parts-per-million) is the maximum indoor safe carbon monoxide level over 8 hours
  • 200 ppm or greater will cause physical symptoms and is fatal in hours
  • 800 ppm of CO or greater in the air is fatal within minutes
Typically any CO found coming out of the ductwork of a furnace is an indication of a cracked heat exchanger or other critical failure. While venting issues can definitely cause huge problems, normally a high efficiency furnace wouldn't light with a plugged vent. I guess if the vent pipe had physically separated within the building, the furnace wouldn't know that and would run and put CO into the inside air...so that's something to be aware of.

Based on the possible problems associated with CO poisoning, this is not one of those "Let's get some more data and puzzle it out". If I were you I'd call my gas provider and see if they'll come out and check for any issue. The one's I know of would. For free even.

If your CO detector goes off, evacuate and call 911.

They will be able to check (with a real instrument) what the CO level is.

The units we buy at my job measure methane as well as CO to PPM but they cost thousands to buy and hundreds per year to maintain calibration and servicing. Not something you'd want to buy. But if you're buying gas from our company, we'll show up with one of these 24 X 7 X 365 if a customer calls and has a suspected gas leak or CO alarm going off. Leak calls and CO calls are always "no charge".
 

danski0224

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Near Naperville, IL
I guess if the vent pipe had physically separated within the building
This is the potential issue with atmospheric vent water heaters being common vented with induced draft 80% (or lower) AFUE furnaces.

Vent pipe is plugged, flue gases come out at the water heater draft diverter.

Or house is under negative pressure, water heater vents indoors out of the draft diverter.

Admittedly, an actual plugged vent may not be common, but water heaters venting indoors through the draft diverter is common.
 
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