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Handyman painted wooden windows wrong

Jumpsuit

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Oct 27, 2014
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My neighbor who I hired to paint two wooden storm windows which I made did not follow instructions and A. Did not put on a coat of oil-based primer before the acrylic topcoat and b. Did not paint over the glaze onto the window.

My questions are
1. Will the fact that acrylic is right on glaze damage the glaze.
2. Can I just paint oil-based primer over the acrylic (to do it right myself)
3. Any advice on how to tactfully handle calling him out on this is appreciated.

Josh, Wisconsin
 
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rlitman

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1. I don't think so. Is the glazing done with traditional putty? That's basically linseed oil and filler. You should be able to go over that with just about anything.

2. No, you cannot put an oil based primer over a water based paint. That's too late now, unless you wanted to strip everthing.

3. What good would that do?

Is the topcoat a paint that is made to be directly applied to wood? If it requires a primer, you may have issues with it. If not, then I wouldn't sweat it.
 

hefnerconstructionlc

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Oil's not very good for exterior use anyways. It doesn't allow the moisture to escape which is why oil based paint quickly cracks overtime. Good paint breathes it's just like your skin. You're better off with a latetex based primer with a tannin blocker for wood stains. Then top coat with acrylic/latex paint. I suspect you'll be fine. Just give it another coat of latex paint for good measure.
 

Shiftless

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Check your can of glazing compound. On mine, it says to allow to cure and then paint with oil based primer. If your neighbor applied acrylic instead of oil based, expect problems in the future.

After the oil based primer on the glazing compound, I always use 100% acrylic paint and cut in with my brush so a little line of paint touches the glass to make a better water seal.

Regarding #2
I agree with rlitman...
Don't apply oil based over acrylic.
 
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MarkG

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I don't get it----if you're apparently skilled enough to build the windows, why wouldn't you finish the job yourself in the first place? More info than you'll ever need is a few keystrokes away today or you can simply read and follow label directions!

At any rate, some of the best paints are water-based today and there are many that don't require a separate 'primer coat'. Latex moves with seasonal changes and movement in wood, lasting much longer outdoors than oil-based would in most cases.
 

glazier1

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Dap 33 glazing compound instructions require the use of an exterior oil-based paint. As an alternate, use oil-based primer and acrylic-latex top coat. That being said, I wouldn't sweat it if only a couple of frames are involved.
 
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billybudge

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Just a sugestion,
Would it be suitable to put a clear laquer over the top of the water base, and seal it that way, you can get all types of finishes, gloss matt semi, etc,
Ive completed finishing jobs 100s of times this way, and there still looking good to this day,
 

Shiftless

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Dap 33 glazing compound instructions require the use of an exterior oil-based paint. As an alternate, use oil-based primer and acrylic-latex top coat. That being said, I wouldn't sweat it if only a couple of frames are involved.

:+1: to that!
 

rlitman

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I disagree.
take gloss or semi gloss oil interior, paint over with latex... wont bond.
take semi gloss latex, topcoat with oil. great bond
take flat oil, primer etc, latex will bond

Painting over a gloss paint that's fully cured is its own problem.

As for mixing oil and latex, their different rates of expansion and the water permeability of latex will inevitably lead to issues outdoors. I'm a fan of oil based primer over bare wood indoors, though many alkyd primers are now just as good at blocking resin and hiding things that can telescope through the latex top coat. That's why a latex based primer is generally recommended for latex based paint (or just use an all in one latex) nowadays. Also, latex breathes better, which makes it better over wood (though the putty is a different issue).
 
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