Hangar improvement project

[nitrohog]

I'm in the process of buying the aircraft hangar that I have been renting for the past couple of years. Long story short, it needs some help in a few different areas and I am looking for advice. It is a 30x40 pole building with a concrete floor. My primary objective is to seal it off from the elements. Rain and snow like to blow in the eves as well as the roof cap, sealing that up is my primary objective. What would be my best option given that it is already an assembled building?

My second objective is to improve the door situation. I currently have a 38' span door that is divided into 4 sections and they are a total nightmare to manhandle around. I also lose over a foot of width when they fold in. I would absolutely love to drop $15000 on an electric bifold, but that isn't in the cards right now for me. Maybe a DIY overhead solution or some means of improving what I have would be the best solution?

After that I plan to add a sub panel for better electrical distribution and possibly begin insulating it.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[vavet]

A Taylorcraft, Challenger, and your own hangar?
I know envy is one of the deadly sins and all...but dang....nice setup.

I can't offer much help with your questions, but I think you're doing all right.

 

[jack stand]

It doesn't look like there's any ventilation built in and the Gable end closing trim is just tired and looks like minimally been repaired a few times. Short of replacing the ridge cap with some "closures" and messing around with the gable trim, I'd almost suggest having these areas spray foamed with closed cell.
You need some on site advice for this one.
For the doors, it's hard to imagine that the 4 panels have sagged with the diagonal bracing but there's the hinges that may have become a little loose and the same for the supporting wheels on the floor. Maybe a weekend when you're feeling very patient you could take one side apart (little bites) with your Sherlock Holmes hat on after you've thoroughly studied it's movement through the operational cycles. It's one of those things that everything has to work just right. I would estimate that each panel is under 200# and your moving 2 simultaneously but there on wheels and a smooth floor. I would start with these support wheels.
Sorry no special magic from me without being there.

 

[dfiler2]

You might look at putting a couple of adjustable gate wheels on that door, you would need to adjust them after closing to seal them but with a small impact driver that would be pretty quick. The openings could be plugged by fitting strips of polystyrene and sealing them in with expanding foam.

 

[nitrohog]

A Taylorcraft, Challenger, and your own hangar?
I know envy is one of the deadly sins and all...but dang....nice setup.

I can't offer much help with your questions, but I think you're doing all right.

Thank you!

Life isn't too bad. Everything was acquired with a lot of overtime and a little luck throughout the years.

I should have specified that all four panels on the door are separate and the inners are balanced between the wheel on the ground and the track on the top which makes them super awkward.

Im leaning towards spray foaming all of the sills around the roof to seal them up but I may get some of the foam closure strips for the peak of the roof to maintain some form of ventilation.

 

[jack stand]

There's a "cobra" ridge vent product that might work. I've never seen that metal "profile" before, most of the typical panels today have the major ribs on 9" centers. As long as you are close to that you should be ok, it's somewhat stretchy but the typical closure strips don't allow ventilation.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I can't comment on your doors. One of your pics makes it appear the roof panels overlap the trim pieces that run up the gables - this is incorrect. The gable trim pieces should be on top of the siding and on top of the roof panels. None of your pics show the roof ridge trim. If it is the typical barn type trim, they make foam pieces that are supposed to be placed on either side of the cap (under it) before it is screwed down. These can disappear over time due to weather, birds and aging of adhesive. I had these re-installed on my barn and shop for a fairly reasonable amount.

 

[nadogail]

Many small improvements, over time should eventually get you somewhere near your goal. Try to keep your projects small enough that they can accomplished with the money and time you have to spend.

 

[Hooked]

For the roof cap, I found some pieces of a 'filter type material' in the same shape/form as the foam strips mentioned above. They keep out debris and they should do the same for snow but still allow some limited ventilation.

ProfileVent | ProfileVent

profilevent.com

 

[mike93lx]

Foam isn't a good sealant for moisture. You should solve for the water ingress then use foam for air sealing and insulation

 

[nitrohog]

Foam isn't a good sealant for moisture. You should solve for the water ingress then use foam for air sealing and insulation

Any specific advice or products that you would suggest?

I realize that ripping the roof cap and the trim pieces off of the wall, sealing behind them somehow and then putting it all back together would likely be the best method, but I also realize that Ill likely be buying trim and caps if I attempt to pull the nails.

 

[mike93lx]

I think you are going to need to pull trim and properly flash it. Might be worth calling someone that does metal roofing to take a look.