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Hanging a massive chalkboard in garage

Rc_Guy

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Looks great. Does it get used? If mine doesn't at least I'll be able to take it down and post it on MP :)
Six grandkids and a young neighbor boy, yeah, it gets used, the wife just washed it yesterday from having everyone over for Christmas.

Now I can get my todo list back on there
 
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duneslider

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I worked for a school district for a few years, a few screws in the top and a few in the bottom is all it needs. I have never seen one fall off. A lot of them we did were into brick walls and those also just got a few screws with plastic anchors into the brick.
 

05snopro440

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At about 2 lbs/sqft that really isn't that heavy. 100 lbs should be easy for 3 screws to support into studs. However, since kids will be using it I would put the rail under the bottom as well for extra safety.
 

Jim_No_Garage

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I attended many classes at college with multiple vertical sliding chalkboards.
One of my Physic's professors told us a story for his college days. He attended a class in a ROUND (hexagonal) classroom with chalk boards around the entire room. He said the professor had a routine where he would walk in as class started, pick up the chalk and work his way around the room writing on the boards, completing his proof at the end of class period and walk back out the door.

Chalk pain needs to be used on SMOOTH materials - we made a little board with plywood and you can see the grain.
I don't have enough wallspace for a large board.

Cheers

Jim
 

gazza

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Grab a magnet to confirm if it has a metal face, most of the ones that I have installed over the years at 3 different schools are a sheet metal face (fitted to a sheet of plaster) so that you can use magnets on them. Grab your stud finder and screw in 3 or four screws at the correct height so that you can sit the board on these then screw a few screws through the top and bottom aluminium trim straight into the vertical studs.
 

i4ni

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I remember having to stay in for recess umpteen times in grade school and having to write on the chalk board over and over " I will not blah, blah, blah in class " whatever the infraction was that particular day. lol. Or Having to write numbers from 2000 counting down to zero. For some reason I don't see myself ever putting up a large chalk board in my shop.
 
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MerlinsBeard

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So the wife wants me to hang this 12 ft x 4 chalkboard in my shop. She said it will get the kids off of the iPads..i dont know about that but what I do know is i have to hang this thing. I estimate it weighs about 100 lbs..based off of after carrying it (actually while carrying it) I guessed that it weighed 100 lbs. I then researched a 12x4 chalkboard and one was listed at 99 lbs so..Im going with 100 lbs.

It only has three holes drilled through the metal trim at the top...im not sure how it was hung previously but it doesn't seem like three screws are enough to support the board into the studs of my shop (16 in OC). This thing is HEAVY!!

Should I run 12 feet of 2x4 to set it on and also screw it in at the top??
Interested in any suggestions.

Thanks
Since these are screws, what you want to look up is the shear strength of these screws as that is the primary force applied to the fastening hardware since the force is perpendicular to the fastener. If you have ceiling mounted storage, tensile strength is what you want since the fastener is parallel to the force. There is also torque strength, and you'll discover that once you snap a screw head off with an impact driver.

If you compare shear strength based on screw shaft size, you may be surprised how much the screws are rated for. Strong-Tie has some load tables that you can use to get a rough estimate on the stress design limits. Not all screws are created equally though, but it can give you some piece of mind if the weight is significantly below the allowable stress design.

Simpson Strong-Tie Fastening Systems Technical Guide
General Load Tables
Screw Strength

If you take a look, this may give you some piece of mind using 3 screws for the chalkboard. Personally, I'd probably feel better with a lag screw if you can screw into studs. Max the diameter (shear) and length (tensile) to increase hanging strength for fasteners, nothing wrong with over-design for 3 screws imo.

If you're not hanging on studs, then I'd be more concerned about the material you're anchoring to than the fastener.
 

rlitman

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Since these are screws, what you want to look up is the shear strength of these screws as that is the primary force applied to the fastening hardware since the force is perpendicular to the fastener. If you have ceiling mounted storage, tensile strength is what you want since the fastener is parallel to the force. There is also torque strength, and you'll discover that once you snap a screw head off with an impact driver.

If you compare shear strength based on screw shaft size, you may be surprised how much the screws are rated for. Strong-Tie has some load tables that you can use to get a rough estimate on the stress design limits. Not all screws are created equally though, but it can give you some piece of mind if the weight is significantly below the allowable stress design.

Simpson Strong-Tie Fastening Systems Technical Guide
General Load Tables
Screw Strength

If you take a look, this may give you some piece of mind using 3 screws for the chalkboard. Personally, I'd probably feel better with a lag screw if you can screw into studs. Max the diameter (shear) and length (tensile) to increase hanging strength for fasteners, nothing wrong with over-design for 3 screws imo.

If you're not hanging on studs, then I'd be more concerned about the material you're anchoring to than the fastener.
Everyone is "hung up" on the strength of the screws, but nobody is talking about how that aluminum trim is attached to the green glass board.

YES, three screws can hold the weight in shear, but I'm still not convinced that the aluminum trim is all that well glued to the board, or if the four sides of mitered aluminum trim are even attached to each other.
 

MerlinsBeard

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Everyone is "hung up" on the strength of the screws, but nobody is talking about how that aluminum trim is attached to the green glass board.

YES, three screws can hold the weight in shear, but I'm still not convinced that the aluminum trim is all that well glued to the board, or if the four sides of mitered aluminum trim are even attached to each other.
True, with adhesives, my limited understanding is that the smaller the surface area under adhesion, the higher strength of adhesive is needed. I agree, the poster should make an assessment of the adhesion of the mounting material before install. There's probably studies on shear strength of adhesives, but I'm not familiar with how adhesives hold up over the years.

If the owner and friend(s) can pick it up by the mounting material and give it a shake test, or anchor a support piece of wood underneath for the chalkboard to rest on, I don't see any particular reason to worry about safely installing it. I don't view 100 lbs over a 12x4' dimension as particularly heavy, but definitely very awkward if it's a one person install.
 

dave*99

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it does have one...
Does the chalk tray have any through holes for mounting to the wall? Can you add some if there are none?

Is there a grove on the back of the chalk tray? There might have been a strip of metal (cleat) that went on the wall first and the chalk ledge slipped over it. Like a French cleat.

I can promise you that the chalk board was never designed to "dangle" from only 3 screws in the top rail.
 

mikedodge

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Everyone is "hung up" on the strength of the screws, but nobody is talking about how that aluminum trim is attached to the green glass board.

YES, three screws can hold the weight in shear, but I'm still not convinced that the aluminum trim is all that well glued to the board, or if the four sides of mitered aluminum trim are even attached to each other.

The aluminum trim usually wraps over the chalkboard and the backing material so the screws are going through it all. The ones on the top and a couple on the sides or in the bottom below if theres room under the chalk ledge is all it needs.
 

mikedodge

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Does the chalk tray have any through holes for mounting to the wall? Can you add some if there are none?

Is there a grove on the back of the chalk tray? There might have been a strip of metal (cleat) that went on the wall first and the chalk ledge slipped over it. Like a French cleat.

I can promise you that the chalk board was never designed to "dangle" from only 3 screws in the top rail.

I've never seen any chalk board with any extra cleat on the wall below it to old hold it but my guess is since they didn't screw the sides that either there were screws on the bottom too or there was shelving below it that held the bottom in place.

At the very least it should have more screws then just those three to hold it flat on the wall.
 

dave*99

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I've never seen any chalk board with any extra cleat on the wall below it to old hold it but my guess is since they didn't screw the sides that either there were screws on the bottom too or there was shelving below it that held the bottom in place.

At the very least it should have more screws then just those three to hold it flat on the wall.
I agree - but 55 posts in and all discussion has been about the 3 holes in the top rail. So in the traditional GJ fashion, we guess. From this photo and using my x-ray vision and massive powers of speculation, I'd say there are screw holes in the top and bottom rails. And they may have even been drilled at install time. But I'm just guessing. The whole cleat comment was to throw other speculators off the scent. I do hope that service panel behind the chalkboard is dead....

1704488499459.png
 

manwithtools

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And 56 posts in and no one has pointed out the clear and present danger of the breaker panel with exposed busses and no cover :shocking::shocking::shocking::shocking:
 

KenC

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OK, after reading all this and adapting the info to my work processes, here's what I'd do. Remember, part of my process is I'm almost always working alone. So, I'd grab a 1x2, 3 or 4, just depends on what is handy. Use some good wood screws to attach it to the studs at the height of the boards bottom. Start in the center with one screw, lay a level on the top of the 1x and work your way to the ends, keeping it level with each screw.

Now that I have a solid support I'd put a couple of screws in my mouth, the drill/impact driver in my tool belt, pick up the chalk board and set it on that support. Grab the impact driver from the belt while holding he board on the support with my shoulder and shoot the center screw in the top. Finish with the two end screws.

Grab a cool one to celebrate.

It's not always about the finished result, it's how you get there!
 

KenC

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I once had a 4x6 real slate board from a local school in my antique store. Talk about heavy. I won't bore you with the tale of how that turned into several smaller boards.
 
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mikedodge

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I agree - but 55 posts in and all discussion has been about the 3 holes in the top rail. So in the traditional GJ fashion, we guess. From this photo and using my x-ray vision and massive powers of speculation, I'd say there are screw holes in the top and bottom rails. And they may have even been drilled at install time. But I'm just guessing. The whole cleat comment was to throw other speculators off the scent. I do hope that service panel behind the chalkboard is dead....

1704488499459.png

After all this the kids will probably use it once or twice and never look at it again 😆
 

Oregon rock crusher

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I put up a much smaller whiteboard in the shop down low for the grandkids to scribble create art on. It's in a space where I can shove some equipment to the side and clear some floor. They love to play out there and it gets plenty of use. I do need help supervising when they all show up at once. All part of the plan to get them in the shop young and slowly work them into projects. Ed.
 

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Bert_

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And 56 posts in and no one has pointed out the clear and present danger of the breaker panel with exposed busses and no cover :shocking::shocking::shocking::shocking:
My panel cover is been off more than it's been on...

I'm more caught up with the feeder that sure looks like URD wrapped in tape and ran right through the wall. Maybe I'm wrong
 

dave*99

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My panel cover is been off more than it's been on...

I'm more caught up with the feeder that sure looks like URD wrapped in tape and ran right through the wall. Maybe I'm wrong
Maybe you’re right. I sense a copious quantity of tape was dispatched at some juncture.
Like they say in body work….Bondo and paint makes it what it ain’t.
 

WisJim

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I had a small chalkboard in the shop for years (before we moved) and found it handy for doing quick sketches or calculations when working on the mill or lathe, or figuring out a woodworking joint. I wish I had space for it in my new shop.
 

Bert_

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I don't really agree with most of the comments. Why suggest something like chalkboard paint, not as good, when he already has a chalkboard. I had a slate chalkboard growing up, very nice.

I would definitely look and see if there are holes along the bottom. If not it should definitely have something to support and also hold it tight to the wall.
 

jonesg

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I don't really agree with most of the comments. Why suggest something like chalkboard paint, not as good, when he already has a chalkboard. I had a slate chalkboard growing up, very nice.

I would definitely look and see if there are holes along the bottom. If not it should definitely have something to support and also hold it tight to the wall.
the whole premise relies on weak parenting, remove the elec gadgets that rot their minds, its not a negotiation.
 

Quantumkiwi

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When I built my stand for a full-size slate chalkboard I got for free from Uni, I used a c-channel for the sides of the frame, then had bottom and top crossbars that tightened to reduced back-and-forth shaking, while it rested on the bottom crossbar.
All made from cheap steel, but 2x4s would work fine too.

Mine was slightly different, since I couldn't wall-mount it and had to move it, but it was certainly pretty sturdy without drilling through the frame.

I've also got a similar cheaper green chalkboard in my garage, I just drilled holes into the frame and screwed it into the studs. Works just fine.

Terrible picture of the stand:
2020-02-06-152314.jpg
 

charbar

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I guess if I was doing it I would just screw an 8ft 2X4 to the wall about 2 ft high, set the chalk board on it and then screw the board to the wall. I like to overdo so I suppose I would screw the top in every other stud along the top edge and only need two on each bottom corner to keep it from swinging away from the wall. The 2x4 is going to carry all the weight.

That way it is still low enough for the kids to play with and the top will be at 6 feet so you have plenty of space across the top that is around eye level for you to write notes on.
 

RMERR

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Maybe I'm the only one but I hate chalkboards, I'd bury this one and go with a marker whiteboard, much easier draw on.
I'm with BombShelter. Dry erase is cleaner, no chalk dust, no chalk on hands and clothes. Easier to write on and there's a gillion colors available. The whiteboards are lighter and easier to hang. Not to mention the fact that dry erase is what they're probably used to using in school anyway. Much more useful for you if the kids don't use it, a quick project sketch, a list of stuff you need. If I had the wall space I'd have one myself.
 

rust in the eye

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Having once made a living in the office furniture business I'll caution you on hanging it from the frame.
The extruded frames are typically crimped to the board and not meant to support the weight, factory installed hangers usually are attached to the board itself unless a very light one which this is not. Chances are those holes in it were done by others and not the manufacturer. While they penetrate the board that is likely just particle board and with the holes a fraction of an inch from the edge I'd not trust it mounted that way alone.
Atop a ledger as already suggested would be my first choice of methods. 100# falling from only a few feet will have some consequences to any little feet that may be in the way.
If I may be indulged with some story telling: A seventh grade math teacher of mine seemingly had eyes in the back of her head as any kid (moi perhaps?) causing mischief while she was writing on the chalkboard was always correctly identified without turning her head. The offender then the target of a felt chalkboard eraser hurled at nigh on the speed of light with pinpoint accuracy leaving a familiar rectanglular chalk mark on said person's clothing.
 
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K13

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I'm with BombShelter. Dry erase is cleaner, no chalk dust, no chalk on hands and clothes. Easier to write on and there's a gillion colors available. The whiteboards are lighter and easier to hang. Not to mention the fact that dry erase is what they're probably used to using in school anyway. Much more useful for you if the kids don't use it, a quick project sketch, a list of stuff you need. If I had the wall space I'd have one myself.
I am guessing you have never seen what a child looks like after using markers.:lol_hitti
 
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