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Hanging chain fall from ceiling.

BlackdogJunkyard

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So I would like to hang a chain fall from my ceiling. I have 16' high ceilings in my 15x30 garage bay. I have a flat roof being supported by 2x6's 16" on center.

I will use the hoist to pull motors from my Volkswagen and my friends Volkswagens. Motors average around 300# max. The cars themselves are only 2400# fully dressed.

So.... can I just stick a nice eyebolt in one of the 2x6's and hang my chain and chain fall? :p

I want to spend very little money (none). I have access to free large wooden beams but nothing 15' long. I also don't want to take up any floor space.

Any ideas?
e9eheteb.jpg


Under neath the insulated pipe there is a giant I beam running the full length of the garage. The building is concrete block.

Sent from Outer Space!
 
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NUTTSGT

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I wouldn't either... Thats why I am here asking the question:D

Sent from Outer Space!

I think you already answered your own question. Remember to take into account the weight of the chain fall and many feet of chain from a 16' ceiling. I would think the 3 sqft that a folding engine hoist takes up would be a better option.
 

Zeke

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Get one of those beams and lay it flat and perpendicular under the joists. Lag it into the bottom of the joists making sure you hit dead center on each one. Stagger the lag bolts along the beam 2-3" from L and R or just so they don't run along the same grain. Then just throw a chain over the beam wherever you want to hang the chainfall.
 

Brad54

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Can you be more specific about where that I beam is?
Is it running side-to-side, or fore/aft in the wall?

With what you've got, I don't think there's a way to do it.
I recently put a chain hoist up in my shop with 12 foot ceilings and 32-foot long roof truss system.
I sandwiched one of the trusses with 12-foot long 2x6s, bolted through the bottom rafter of the truss.

The walls are 2x6, with a 6-inch header, so I made sure my "sandwhich" 2x6 boards went all the way to the outside edge of the header.

On the other end, I put up a 6x6 post, wedged in place between the floor and the truss, at the end of the sandwiched boards, so my 2x6s were supported at both ends.
I bent a piece of sheetmetal to make a sleeve over the 2x6s and the truss, and hung a length of chain over that sleeve--the sleeve keeps the chain from digging in to the wood, and distributes the load over a greater distance.
The chainfall was hung from that length of chain.

Pulled a big block Mopar out of a 4x4 truck last month, with no worries.

The upright post is removable, so my shop floor is open when the chain hoist is not in use.
I'll never use an engine hoist again.

-Brad
 

Brad54

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I just had an idea:
Look on Craigslist for laminated beams... these are often used for garage door headers, etc.
Get one that is 15 feet wide to span your shop.
Put it on top of a couple 6x6 timbers along the wall, so you won't lose floor space.
Then hang your chain fall from there.

-Brad
 
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BlackdogJunkyard

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Get one of those beams and lay it flat and perpendicular under the joists. Lag it into the bottom of the joists making sure you hit dead center on each one. Stagger the lag bolts along the beam 2-3" from L and R or just so they don't run along the same grain. Then just throw a chain over the beam wherever you want to hang the chainfall.

There we go. Thats pretty much what I was thinking but couldnt find any info anywhere about what kind or weight it could hold or if it would begin to be remotely safe. I will try and get a ten foot 8x8 piece of hemlock and some 12 inch timberloks.


Btw The chain fall only weighs like 30#... I am not too worried about that. Hahaha.

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pattenp

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All I can say is do not put lag screws of a large size screwed in to the bottom edge of the rafter. It will compromise the strength of the rafter. Any holes drilled for supporting bolts need to be placed through the sides of the rafter close to the top edge. The reason is the bottom portion of the rafter is in tension and the top portion is in compression. So drilling holes for lag screws in the bottom edge you are in effect cutting the edge of the rafter that's in tension.

Edit: The main reason I'm saying this is because it's a flat roof and those are roof rafters directly supporting the roof loads.
 
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justanengineer

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Sounds to me like you need an engine hoist, not a fixed position chain fall. Ive used them in past, along with other "shade-tree" methods including a frontend loader, excavator, and other equipment to pull an engine. The proposed setup will freakin **** IME bc engines dont lift straight out, they need to wiggle out.

Buy a used engine hoist, they dont take up much room and you can always get your money out of them fairly easily. Mine cost ~$60 IIRC and is one of the best investments Ive made, I use it to move anything/everything and lift things in/out of the truck.
 

nine4gmc

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I also vote for engine hoist, sometimes you will be lifting things that may not be directly under the chain beam, then you have problems. I have a HF engine hoist and can use it anywhere in the shop, AND outside to unload truck/trailers. There are times the legs get in the way but it's those times you just gotta get creative.
 

BDT/NWMN

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Sounds to me like you need an engine hoist, not a fixed position chain fall. Ive used them in past, along with other "shade-tree" methods including a frontend loader, excavator, and other equipment to pull an engine. The proposed setup will freakin **** IME bc engines dont lift straight out, they need to wiggle out.

Buy a used engine hoist, they dont take up much room and you can always get your money out of them fairly easily. Mine cost ~$60 IIRC and is one of the best investments Ive made, I use it to move anything/everything and lift things in/out of the truck.



Same page here: get a foldable engine hoist for car work.. I have two of them, along with a specially equipped frontend loader and the sky hooks..
The engine hoists can be used anywhere; they can be moved while supporting the engine; rather than attempting to roll the vehicle out from under an engine that is hanging from a sky hook.. Did I mention that mine have gone with me on service calls??
 

Charles (in GA)

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Is this building rented? if so, you don't want to do anything that will compromise the structure, you would be liable for any damage you cause to the building. Are you in a snow area, where you have to consider additional loads on the roof beyond the weight of it?

Charles
 

Sureshot

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I think the original idea would hold but what if it doesn't? 300# is just a big guy. Crazy glue a 4x4 across a couple trusses and you are good to go.
 

redlinetoys

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You can catch a harbor freight engine lift for well less than $200 most of the time with a 20% off coupon. I have seen it on special for $99. It will support up to 1,000 pounds and folds up and out of the way. Doing anything else for what you are trying to accomplish is just thinking too hard and taking some risk, at least in my opinion.
 
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kbs2244

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Can you get to the top surface of your beams?
If so, fish a 3/8 chain over and around a beam.
You can get five or ten foot ones at HF with a slip hook on one end and a grab hook on the other.
Use the grab hook to fasten the two drops together and the slip hook will grab the chain fall just fine.

The problem with chain falls is often with the length of their travel.
If you lower the fall with the chain you will have better use of the travel.

I keep my normally drooping chains in a boat fitters heavy cloth “tool bucket.”
It keeps them up and out of they yet still easy to get a hold of.
 

Justanoldguy

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Get one of those beams and lay it flat and perpendicular under the joists. Lag it into the bottom of the joists making sure you hit dead center on each one. Stagger the lag bolts along the beam 2-3" from L and R or just so they don't run along the same grain. Then just throw a chain over the beam wherever you want to hang the chainfall.

I'd do that as well.
 

Rust

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4... 2" x 12" x 16' bolted together will lift you car off the ground with the proper chainfall. If installed correctly.

Is it safe to lift a whole car?
Probably not.lol.


My span is 12', the height is 11'6".
I bolted (and nailed the piss out of) )4... 2" x 12" x 12' to lift this 1000# bandsaw off my trailer.

I could pull motors all day long with this rig. This will support 3 ton.:rocker:
 
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sberry

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His is in a 16 ft high bay with insulation in it etc, likely a rental, its underbuilt to start with and difficult to improve or modify. A chain fall is in a single location, while this can be done it isn't very practical in this case.
 

HAY YOU

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4... 2" x 12" x 16' bolted together will lift you car off the ground with the proper chainfall. If installed correctly.

Is it safe to lift a whole car?
Probably not.lol.


My span is 12', the height is 11'6".
I bolted (and nailed the piss out of) )4... 2" x 12" x 12' to lift this 1000# bandsaw off my trailer.

I could pull motors all day long with this rig. This will support 3 ton.:rocker:

I'd worry about the strap capacity along with softeners for it.
 
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BlackdogJunkyard

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I think the original idea would hold but what if it doesn't? 300# is just a big guy. Crazy glue a 4x4 across a couple trusses and you are good to go.




I went with this plan. Crazy glue is hella cheap.


Hang it from your flat billed cap, lol.


Sent from herp a derp




This is my back up plan if the glue fails.


lol you guys are pussies. Or Im just crazy! lol

..waiting for someone to break out the slide rule...

Lololol I think this could be done with any of the ideas suggested however I think I will just end up getting an engine hoist. I always forget that with an over head pulling device, one pretty much has to pull the hood to make it work right. Thats something I don't want to do to most cars. Unless I am parting them out.


Although being able to load an engine into a pickup with the chain fall would be key. They only weigh #250. The fat **** that fixed the roof leak weighed close to double that... And when you add in the weight of his fat son.... Pretty much adds up to a Rabbit. Thx for all the suggestions everyone. Keep em coming should anyone else be struck with a similar desire.

Sent from Outer Space!
 

Rust

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Slide Rule???
Really? Before your time then,im sure. Pre-calculator, phased out in 1974.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slide_rule

Usually use by engineers to calculate mathamatical equations.

I'd worry about the strap capacity along with softeners for it.
The straps you see are rated at 6800#. Not on my best day would I worry about exceeding that limit.

But do explain what you mean by softeners. I've never heard of that.
Are you refering to a fall supression system?

one pretty much has to pull the hood to make it work right.

Bah! Whats a few bolts?
Anyways... what ever you decide good luck!:beer:
 
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HAY YOU

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Softners are made out of pipes cut in half and laid over the sharp edge of beams, concrete even timber to prevent wire chokers from deforming or slings from wearing were they break over the sharp edge. If a load is heavy enough you'll part a sling or wire choker. Of course you'll have to blow a hole in the softners so you can wire them off so they don't fall.
 

Rust

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Softners are made out of pipes cut in half and laid over the sharp edge of beams, concrete even timber to prevent wire chokers from deforming or slings from wearing were they break over the sharp edge. If a load is heavy enough you'll part a sling or wire choker. Of course you'll have to blow a hole in the softners so you can wire them off so they don't fall.

I understand now. Thanks!:thumbup:
 

fredybender

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Did this a few years ago, with my motorcycle:
Rated capacity of a #14 screw X 3" long is about 500lbs in lumber. always add X 2 for security, so basically rate it a 250Lbs. But its not the screw that will limit the weight, but the structure itself, in most of the case.

If you have access, on TOP on the ceiling rafters. distribute the weight on multiple rafters, and also try to prevent pulling (like I did) on the fasteners from the underside of the ceiling rafters

FYI bike is rated at 500lbs wet:

 
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