Hanging drywall questions

[neblinc]

When I get to hanging drywall in my shop I was planning on using 4 x 10 sheets, 5/8 for the ceiling and 1/2 for the walls.
My question is to I need to stagger the sheets, or can I just line them all up?
I was hoping to save on cutting sheets in half and just be able to hang full sheets.
What are the advantages of staggering the sheets?
Also will 24" between the studs work ok for the ceiling and walls?

I am just about done hanging all the foil on the walls and ceiling and will start my walls next. This shop is progressing slower than I hoped between helping neighbor with fall harvest and the hot weather we had earlier.

Randy

 

[DIGGER_DAVE]

When I get to hanging drywall in my shop I was planning on using 4 x 10 sheets, 5/8 for the ceiling and 1/2 for the walls.
My question is do I need to stagger the sheets, or can I just line them all up?
I was hoping to save on cutting sheets in half and just be able to hang full sheets.
What are the advantages of staggering the sheets?

First; you mention "4 foot x 10 foot sheets. (most conventional drywall is 4' x 8')

IF .. your walls are 10 foot high; then the extra length makes sense.
If the finished height is only 8 foot; then your wasting the extra length, unless your going to place the sheets horizontally. BUT ... having a horizontal seam WITHOUT a horizontal support COULD invite problems. (plus with 24" spacing it would limit the locations to mount electrical outlets and hang overhead shelving)

Also will 24" between the studs work ok for the ceiling and walls?
Randy

Normally studs and rafters are on 16 inch centers.
Even with staggered joints, 24" centers is stretching the limits of the drywall boarding, - even 5/8" thick - it could start to "sag" between the rafters over time. The "staggering" of the joints of the drywall "spreads" the load of the drywall over a greater area.

 

[neblinc]

My ceilings are 12 foot so I was thinking I could **** 4 sheets end to end on the ceiling. The wall post are 10 foot apart so I would have 3 stacked horizontily there.
I will be putting up all the studs, so I can make them any width.

Randy

 

[PAToyota]

Might want to take a look at this thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5054&highlight=drywall

 

[toxicz28]

24" centers for studs will work if you're using 2x6's, for the rafters, the size will depend on the span (over 12' span, use 2x8 12' and under 2x6) I personally wouldn't use 5/8" on the ceiling it'll be a waste of money, and you do not need the impact resistance on the ceiling.

 

[D-Cal]

5/8" can help prevent sagging between joists on ceilings and improves the fire safety rating. I used it on ceiling and walls, it wasn't a whole lot more and I weld/cut/fab a lot.

 

[Wile1Coyote]

To answer your question no you do not need to stagger. However I do agree that there is no reason to go with a bigger sheet than a 4x8 unless you can somehow eliminate a seam. Working with 10, 12 or 16 foot sheets will really take a toll on your body too. .02

 

[PAToyota]

Laid horizontal, unless your walls are less than 8' long then they do eliminate a seam.

 

[astroracer]

It sounds like this is in a pole barn, right?
If it is the wall studs can be 2x4 on 24" centers and not hurt a thing. They aren't load bearing so there is no need to go big or closer. I will agree with the 4x8 sheet size as max. Unless you have a lot of help and a drywall lift, anything bigger is going to a b***h to hang without breaking and the reduced seamage wouldn't factor in if I was doing it...
For the walls you may consider doing the bottom row in sheetrock and the top in pegboard. Saves at least one horizontal seam (cover it with trim) and gives a lotta room for hanging stuff.
Mark

 

[neblinc]

Yes it is a pole barn building and great idea abouth the pegboard!!!

Randy

 

[astroracer]

No problem...
Is the outside done? When I added onto my shop last fall I had the whole building resided in vinyl to match the house. Before they resided I had them wrap the whole structure with Tyvek. It really tightened it up. I don't have a quarter of the drafts and wind noise I had last year and I know it helped on the heating bills last winter.
Mark

 

[Wile1Coyote]

I second the tyvek idea, it really does make a HUGE difference in the weatherproofing of a structure.

 

[neblinc]

Yeah the whole building is done except for the insulation, walls & electrical on the inside. I have 1 section of foil to put up above the garage door.
I noticed this morning that there was frost on the metal roof everywhere except above the garge door. So that stuff must be working.

Randy