Hanging Drywall

[bookman51]

I am planning to hang some drywall over some insulation and behind where cabinets will go in my pole building--just to 4 feet up and above that white pegboard. The building will only be heated occasionally and not quickly or all that warm--probably overhead radiant electric heat. The temperature in the building can range from well below zero in the winter to over 100 in the summer here in Nebraska. Do I need to leave any gaps in the drywell for expansion or is it going to crack--whatever I do?

In the more exposed parts where I am not having cabinets I plan to hang one sheet of plywood to four feet up (and paint it white) so I can hang stuff on it--unless someone has a better ideas. Not sure what thickness I will use. I will put pegboard above the plywood too.

Bookman

 

[Tech Guy]

I am planning to hang some drywall over some insulation and behind where cabinets will go in my pole building--just to 4 feet up and above that white pegboard. The building will only be heated occasionally and not quickly or all that warm--probably overhead radiant electric heat. The temperature in the building can range from well below zero in the winter to over 100 in the summer here in Nebraska. Do I need to leave any gaps in the drywell for expansion or is it going to crack--whatever I do?

In the more exposed parts where I am not having cabinets I plan to hang one sheet of plywood to four feet up (and paint it white) so I can hang stuff on it--unless someone has a better ideas. Not sure what thickness I will use. I will put pegboard above the plywood too.

Bookman

Duroroc 90, tape and mud again and dry the mud good. After that it shouldnt crack. (unless the building is moving)

 

[bookman51]

Well, I will expose what I do not know...what is Duroroc 90. I probably will not mud it until the gets warmer (above freezing) this spring..or a spring thaw.

Bookman

 

[5wndwcpe]

Be sure to use a good exterior paint on the walls.

 

[e-tek]

Firstly, no gap is required between drywall sheets. For my shop I didn't mud and tape - it's a shop!! I did (Latex) caulk the seems though - it hides them and accepts paint.
Secondly, Duroroc is just a brand name for drywall.
Thirdly - why radiant heat? I looked at radiant, floor and forced air heat - and so have many here - and I went with a forced air Rennor (HotDawg style) electronic fired natural gas furnace. The drawbacks to radiant heat are that it heats up what is in front of it first and hottest (e.g. your head!) and heats the rest of the shop quite slowly. As well, you need up to 2 feet space on every side the of the tube, which means it takes up a lot of space and means you cannot hang shelves, equipment, etc nearby. As for in-floor heat, it's OK for constantly heated places, but is EXTREMELY slow to change - so not good for occasionally heated places - and pretty much precludes you from ever drilling into the floor again (for a lift, a stand, etc).
IMHO, the forced air system is best (for me anyways!) because I can keep the shop just above freezing and when I walk in it'll heat up the shop faily evenly in 5-10minutes.
Good luck with the project - lets see some pics!

 

[Torque1st]

Forget the sheetrock, just use OSB all around the bottom and pegboard above. Paint the OSB white with good paint. Get white pegboard for the top. Paint messes up the holes in regular pegboard when you paint it.

 

[brownbagg]

drywall is the worst thing for shops, yest its fire retardent but everytime you bump it, it will bust a hole in the wall. It has no strength to it like plywood. even if you do weld in a shop, plywood not going to catch fie unless you hold a torch to it. Its a shop

 

[bookman51]

The building is 40 x 72 so I do not plan heating it much $$$. Maybe I should have said infrared for some overhead heat in areas so the temperature is tolerable on cold days without breaking the budget. The drywall will behind the cabinets and also near where welding and grinding will occur. The plywood will be out where it can get bumped into. The local Meindards has white pegboard.

Thanks

Bookman

 

[Tyrol67]

Well, I will expose what I do not know...what is Duroroc 90. I probably will not mud it until the gets warmer (above freezing) this spring..or a spring thaw.

Bookman

I think he was referring to a product like Durabond 90. It is setting type joint compound that you mix with water and sets in 90 minutes ( you can purchase different settings times). This is vs. the premix in the pail that takes much longer to set and I believe is weaker. Used it for the first time in my garage and it was great. You have to move fast and will have some waste if you don't. But it sets quick, much less waiting around and seemed much stronger.

Also excellent point on the exterior paint. My supplier reminded me that it was needed due to the temperature extremes. Good to have knowledgeable suppliers/stores.

 

[bookman51]

Folks, Thanks for the heads up on the exterior paint and the Durobond 90.

Bookman

 

[Kevin54]

Be sure to use a good exterior paint on the walls.

Without this turning into a OSB vs. drywall thread, if you are going to hang drywall, you can **** it against one another. Hang the longest pieces that you can to eliminate seams. And as 5wndw stated, make sure you paint it. I'm not sure whether it necessarily has to be exterior paint, but it definately needs to be painted to seal out moisture. This will keep it from cracking.

drywall is the worst thing for shops, yest its fire retardent but everytime you bump it, it will bust a hole in the wall. It has no strength to it like plywood. even if you do weld in a shop, plywood not going to catch fie unless you hold a torch to it. Its a shop

I don't know what most people do in a garage, but I have YET to bust a hole in a piece of drywall from bumping into it. What do others do that they end up with holes? Maybe it's just me, but I watch what I am swinging around or throwing Other than the mudding and sanding of joints on drywall, I prefer it over OSB just for the smoothness. The only other thing is finding the studs when you want to hang something, but that is not that huge of deal either.

 

[NRChopshop]

I work in a commercial fabrication shop and our walls are drywalled. the only holes in the walls are ones we purposely put there. how are people so careless that they destroy drywall all the time?

 

[Vicegrip]

Yes plywood is not the primary fire point. something else in the shop catches fire and the plywood lets the fire consume the structural framework. Drywall is more than just fire resistant, it gives off water and steam when heated and lowers the temps that the structural members are exposed to. What is a nuisance fire in a dry-walled room might be a collapsed building with OSB.

I have not poked a hole yet other than a friend running his car up on the lift with the hood propped open.

You can get hardened drywall too.

 

[5wndwcpe]

I used 5/8" drywall which is incredibly "unplanned hole resistant". Kevin, the reason for the exterior paint is that it is more pliable and can withstand expansion and contractraction, making it better to cope with the temperature swings the o.p. expects to see. Interior paint is designed for a more moderate range.

 

[klasbas]

I put drywall in my garage years ago and here in Ontario the difference in temperature between summer and winter is huge. Nothing ever cracked. I used regular drywall from home depot and normal paint. Everything is good after 7 years.

 

[Torque1st]

Yes plywood is not the primary fire point. something else in the shop catches fire and the plywood lets the fire consume the structural framework. Drywall is more than just fire resistant, it gives off water and steam when heated and lowers the temps that the structural members are exposed to. What is a nuisance fire in a dry-walled room might be a collapsed building with OSB.

Sheetrock is designed to give occupants in a building a few more minutes of escape time. It will not save the structure. If a significant fire occurs the structure will have to be rebuilt regardless of whether sheetrock or OSB was used. When a firewall is needed in an attached garage sheetrock will have to be used on the adjoining wall. OSB may be allowed over the sheetrock tho. Personally I like to double sheetrock the adjoining wall 5/8 over 3/8 with staggered joints.

 

[DECJ1]

Good thread. I have gone back and forth a couple of times as to whether to use sheet rock or plywood/OSB in my 30'x40' pole barn garage building, but I think I will be going with sheet rock (although I have no experience putting it in, but I guess I will learn by doing). I haven't done any price checking yet, but I would assume that a sheet of 1/2" sheet rock costs less than a sheet of 1/2" plywood or OSB.

 

[Kevin54]

Good thread. I have gone back and forth a couple of times as to whether to use sheet rock or plywood/OSB in my 30'x40' pole barn garage building, but I think I will be going with sheet rock (although I have no experience putting it in, but I guess I will learn by doing). I haven't done any price checking yet, but I would assume that a sheet of 1/2" sheet rock costs less than a sheet of 1/2" plywood or OSB.

I don't know how up to date these prices are, but I ran across this site. http://www.buyezrip.com/Drywall-Price.htm
http://www.costhelper.com/cost/home-garden/drywall.html

I also had this site bookmarked. It is a drywall calculator. You input your wall height and perimeter, ceiling width and length, then the price and size of drywall you want, and it will calculate how many sheets you need and total cost http://www.buildingresourcecenter.com/drywallcalc.shtml

 

[DECJ1]

I don't know how up to date these prices are, but I ran across this site. http://www.buyezrip.com/Drywall-Price.htm
http://www.costhelper.com/cost/home-garden/drywall.html

I also had this site bookmarked. It is a drywall calculator. You input your wall height and perimeter, ceiling width and length, then the price and size of drywall you want, and it will calculate how many sheets you need and total cost http://www.buildingresourcecenter.com/drywallcalc.shtml

Thanks much Kevin ... I'll check out all 3 sites.

Don

 

[carguykeith]

I'm still a huge fan of both on the walls... 1/2" OSB oriented laterally starting from the bottom up, then 1/2" rock from the top down. Who cares about accidentally putting holes in the wall, I like knowing that I can hang soemthing heavy ANYWHERE on the walls. Also it should help a lot with noise transfering outside of the shop, which is a nice added bonus.

I used the coil nailer with 2" nails to hold the OSB on and did the walls to the whole 26x30 shop in one day by myself, the only hard part was finding a bit for the rotozip... Then got a buddy to help me with the Drywall, which was WAY easier becasue you didn't have to worry about hitting a stud. Just hit the four corners and go to the next one. Then come back with a rental Duraspin to get the rest of the perimeter (you can skip the field if you want) and your done.

I think total cost for the OSB was about $300 (or $10/sheet), but that's up here in Alaska, I imagine it's quite a bit cheaper in the lower 48. Still it's your money though and it is more work, just giving you another option...

 

[bookman51]

What about the need for any expansion contraction for the white pegboard and any plywood I put up? It is 7 degrees here and working in the shop yesterday, with a torpedo heater we got it up to 38, which was fine to work in. But, you can see there will be temperature extremes in the shop.

Bookman
in Nebraska