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Hanging electrical cords?

raferguson

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Aug 31, 2017
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Colorado
In the spirit of having a shop of maximum flexibility, I am thinking of plugging a cord into a ceiling outlet, and then hanging the cord wherever suits me at the moment. Maybe there would be a series of hooks. The idea would be that the cord would be hanging down to 6.5 feet, easily reached, but not a head banger for average height folks.

What problems might I run into?

How can I support the cord? I think that I have seen a kind of Chinese puzzle, where the harder you pull on the cord, the more it grips the cord tighter, but I don't know what they are called, or where to get them.

I added outlets to my garage ceiling, mostly for the garage door openers, but there are places to plug in additional cords.

Richard
 
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bob15

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You want to make something like this:
SSPC-25.JPG


Your chinese puzzle is called a strain relief and are made in metal and plastic. You will need to know the OD of the extension cable you are using in order to use the correct one.

An example of what is out there: http://www.elecdirect.com/cord-grips-strain-relief
 

dogdog

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why can't you just get one of those retractable cord reel ... the heavy duty ones....

I just attached a string to the end of the cored just high enough for my hands to reach tip toe height and its working fine for me....

the version of the retractable reel is 12 Gauge 13AMP fuse at the reel good enough for most power tools and even the 120V welder
 
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roscoe2000

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Seat Pleasant Md
You want to make something like this:
SSPC-25.JPG


I use one of these type of cords to supply voltage for my welder. This allow me the option of being able to move my welder closer to the project. Since (for me) it is a temporary move, I just lay it across the the floor but keep it coiled up when not in use. With my welder, when not it use I keep it tuck away to save floor space.
 

sberry

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I like a simple cord with a single end. When you at feeding multiple outlets it needs to be 15 or 20A wire depending on the circuit it is connected to. its essentially a power strip now.
 

James-W

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I have a cord I made u p with 4 outlets on it. I use it when I am working on a large project with other people and we all are using cordless tools. We can plug in all the chargers to the same place and that way we aren't using 4 different outlets to charge the batteries.
 

sberry

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I have a shitload of fixtures and area lights. I have subpanels so branches are short. I am not scared to plug a power strip in to switch some plug in lights, have some lamp cords from fixture to fixture in a few cases. I have stations to some extent but when stuff is close its not a deal to connect a 4x4 box with a switch and recept in it. In my paint area have a 120V for tools on gfci but have 2 switched duplexes one with a strip daisy chained so the lights downstream are off. the strip is even off when its not used. I probably have 8 switched outlets. Actually more than that considering how some are on equipment and some strips, my office lights are simple fixtures to switched outlets. I can use a lamp cord were it applies and once the switch is off to something its off. It doesn't get any better.
 

Crazyjake8493

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You could do something like this.
 

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dogdog

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Retractable cord reel. Sounds like we are reinventing the wheel.

:lol_hitti I couldn't figure out this whole thread why anyone would still insist on hanging an electrical cord.... instead of the retractable cord...
 

mray312

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I'm not sure why so many are insisting on a cord reel. I added two ceiling drops when I did my garage workshop remodel. They are a great addition and easy to install.

You need the following:
1. metal electrical box
2. box cover with center knock-out
3. section of electrical cord
4. strain relief (sized to match your section of electrical cord). I got mine on Amazon Leviton L7503, $17
5. cord receptacle

My two ceiling drops hang in the middle of the garage - one over each car pad in a two car garage. They drop 7' above the area that is usually where my saw horses are set-up as my work station. Convenient for all of my power tools - from table saw to sanders. Saves the hassle of extension cords.
 

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Matt Matt

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Both my home shop and my work shops have ceiling hung wires with sheath strain relief. Generally if it is twist lock a other strain loop should be added with a small zip cord.

My crane & welder and decoiler run on 600 V, I do not have access to a certified pull cord gizmo. Most of my stuff is three-phase.
 
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Git

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I have about 20' of superstrut going across the ceiling of my 3 stall garage. I also have a variety of trolly's - 2 wheel, 1 wheel, even just blocks of wood with an eye bolt. They come in real handy to support vacuum hoses, electrical cords - just about anything. Retractable, ratcheting tie-downs work great to keep things at just the right level
 

Michael Meisman

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I'm not sure why so many are insisting on a cord reel. I added two ceiling drops when I did my garage workshop remodel. They are a great addition and easy to install.

You need the following:
1. metal electrical box
2. box cover with center knock-out
3. section of electrical cord
4. strain relief (sized to match your section of electrical cord). I got mine on Amazon Leviton L7503, $17
5. cord receptacle

I use hanging pendant outlets a lot. I have a couple hundred of them in the facilities I run. Your generalization in your list is incorrect as to what is legal (OSHA approved) and safe with what many electricians do. Let me tell you that electricians DO NOT really follow the rules and do what is safe when it comes to hanging pendants. I have learned this the long hard and almost very expensive way directly from OHSA inspections.

1. metal electrical box
OH HELL NO. Pendants are grabbed by hand all the time. What happens if your outlet shorts out to the box? Instant joy buzzer to whomever grabs it. This is a no no
EDIT when I first looked at your post the photos did not appear. I assumed that your pendant was the metal box. Just make sure you top box is fully anchored with over the joist mounting straps.

2. box cover with center knock-out
No box with knocks outs are allowed in any fashion. The box bust be formed with a boss connection as fully part of the box. Think what happens when, and it does happen, the nut inside the box holding the fitting comes free. You now have a metal item freely floating around in a box where people grab them and move them around. Sooner or later it will short out to the box or between the outlets causing a fire or shocking someone holding the box. Now something that is handled by hand is not allowed to have knock outs on it as they could release when someone grabs the box allowing a hand to enter the box and create a short and shock as well the possibility of cutting the person from a sharp edge.
EDIT for some reason when I first looked at your post the photos did not load. I see what you are using the plate for now and hat is proper.

3. section of electrical cord
Not just any cord is allowed. The cord must be of a design that allows stresses to be adsorbed in the casing and with internal strapping putting no strain onto the wires themselves.

4. strain relief (sized to match your section of electrical cord). I got mine on Amazon Leviton L7503, $17
Good here just put one on top and bottom.

5. cord receptacle
Good here also

Here are a couple photos that you may find helpful. (I hope this works)
2hmAqVu

2hmCdzm

2hmAr3J
 
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sberry

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(I only work at 1 end of the vise bench, the overhead isn't a problem. There is an air hose whip that hangs on a hook, one lift and it reaches the benches. The AC is in the floor. Guilty of the steel box on the welder cord drop.
 

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exranger06

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1. metal electrical box
OH HELL NO. Pendants are grabbed by hand all the time. What happens if your outlet shorts out to the box? Instant joy buzzer to whomever grabs it. This is a no no

I'll tell you what happens: Assuming the box is bonded to ground, as ALL metal boxes should be, the breaker will trip almost instantaneously as soon as the short occurs. The power shuts off immediately and nobody gets shocked. THAT'S what happens. Following your logic, metal boxes shouldn't be allowed anywhere. I have metal boxes surface-mounted to the walls all around my garage. I can walk right up to any of them and touch them with my hand, or accidentally brush up against them at any moment. And there is always a possibility of a wire inside of them shorting to the box. No different than touching a metal pendant box. That's why metal boxes must be bonded to ground. There's nothing wrong with using a metal box for a pendant, as long as it's grounded.
 
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Matt Matt

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Ontario
Hang away.

I am finding it difficult to embed pictures.
 

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