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Hanging Electrical outlets

Royalblu

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Sep 22, 2005
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KS
I have a 30x40' metal building. Fully open in the middle.
I am adding electrical outlets in a lot of places.
I would like to drop a 220 and 110 outlet down in the middle of the shop from the ceiling. Ceiling is 12' high.
Anyone have suggestions for holding it there. I would not think it would be to code to only rely on the strain relief in the box. I also do not want to drop it in conduit. I am thinking when not needed it can be rolled up and tied to get it up out of the way.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
James
 
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hawkeye2

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May 22, 2006
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For 110 just insall a regular outlet in the ceiling. then add some retractable drop cords. I got mine from cummins truck load sale (you can find them on the web also) real cheap. you can also get them from HD or Lowes.

I'm not sure if you can do the same with 220 or not might be able to just swap the plugs on a retartable drop cord .
 

PAToyota

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I second the retractable reel idea - that was how I went for my 110V outlets. And Reelcraft does make 220V 50amp retractable setups: http://www.reelcraft.com/catalog/electric_catalog.pdf

A bit on the expensive side, but I'm sure that others make them as well. Also, you could easily modify a 110V reel to 3-conductor 220V (for a welder or such) by changing the plugs and marking things accordingly. Just make sure that you use a suitable wire size.
 

brownbagg

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you can do it with a heavy rubber coated wire like an extenstion cord, but correct size, with a metal box clamp to end with right plug. make it hang to about six feet off ground so you dont bump your head. and it will be legal to code.
 
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Royalblu

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KS
Some good suggestions.
I had thought of something like a piece of rope or bungee cord to take the weight of the box. Then the wire braided around that.
Since I am 6'3" I will put it at just under 7'.
 

W-Cummins

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Iowa
If you want to hang an outlet you will want to install strain relief conectors on both ends and if hanging far enough use intermediate supports also ( see picture) You will want to use some type of SO cord.

William...
 

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Stuart in MN

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If you go with a cord reel, make sure to get a good one...the cheapo ones from Harbor Freight or other places like that aren't good for very many amps and they don't reel out or retract very well.

Using a cord grip and heavy 'SO' or 'SJO' cable like W-Cummins mentioned is another way to go. Pictured below is another style cord grip that threads into a junction box mounted on the ceiling:

You can find them in an electrical supply house; the picture I posted is actually from an eBay auction - try doing a search for cable grip, cord grip, strain relief, or Kellems (Kellems is one of the main companies that sell these things.)
 

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W-Cummins

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Stuart in MN said:
Using a cord grip and heavy 'SO' or 'SJO' cable like W-Cummins mentioned is another way to go. Pictured below is another style cord grip that threads into a junction box mounted on the ceiling:
(Kellems is one of the main companies that sell these things.)
That's where I got the picture, from Hubbell's catalog (Kellems). It's hard to see but they are on the ends of the cables in the picture.

I guess the only downside is that they are rather $$$, but they are cheaper than a wire/cable reel

I think I'm going to use them to power my rotary lift and use a twist lock plug so I can unplug it and move the wire if I need to and no need for a disconect:)

William.
 

sberry

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A cord reel for a 120 drop may be practical but do you need a 240 outlet there? I would be almost willing to bet it would be a lot of effort and seldom used where a 25 ft cord will reach near everywhere in the place.
 
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Royalblu

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The outlet will be used quite a bit I think. I am getting more things running at 220 all the time. Tablesaw, compressor, welders, etc.

BTW, I am picking up some scrap ventilation booths. They each have a squirrel cage with motor attached. The label on each piece of equipment says 208V single phase, 11A. Do you think I can run it as is or convert it to run on residential 220V?
Thanks,
James
 

Ign

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Royalblu said:
The outlet will be used quite a bit I think. I am getting more things running at 220 all the time. Tablesaw, compressor, welders, etc.

BTW, I am picking up some scrap ventilation booths. They each have a squirrel cage with motor attached. The label on each piece of equipment says 208V single phase, 11A. Do you think I can run it as is or convert it to run on residential 220V?
Thanks,
James

Same thing. You're within 10% nominal.
 

RAYJAY

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I would just install twist lock outlets in boxs, and make up what ever cord length you need to work with . when not need just unplug and store the cord away

lot cheapper than a reel system and less power loss

Jeff
 

cc_rider

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Jun 22, 2006
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Austin Texas
I put in a hanging box here in the office shop, since we have two 220V saws that sit out in the middle of the shop. I got tired of repairing mangled electrical cords. It has a suspended ceiling, so it was a bit tricky, but basically I went up to the nearest joist and dropped a steel vinyl-coated cable with a loop crimped in each end. Then the power cord is just zip-tied onto that. The outlets are made from two of the outdoor-duty electrical boxes screwed together back-to-back. The power cord itself doesn't see any load, since the cable does all the work. It's just high enough that I need an 8" step to disconnect it. And no more cords running all over the floor!

c.
 

W-Cummins

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Ign said:
Same thing. You're within 10% nominal.

no it's not. The normal line voltage (USA) is 240V (not 220v)

Some 208v motors are dual rated and will run on 208/230v and that is in spec at 240v. You might want to check the spec on your motor and see if its set up for 208-230v.

William
 
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