Hanging FRP?

[Innovate1]

Picked up 6 sheets of FRP for in the shop bathroom and behind the shop sink. Plan to cut it with a sabre saw. A bit slow but less dust.

General advice is always welcome but my main question is about adhesive. The gallon pail says it covers about 50 sq ft. That's less than two panels! Half a gallon per 4 x 8 sheet. That seems ridiculously high. I got the recommended trowel with triangular slots but before I start this I want to get some input on this as that seems like an awful lot of adhesive.

It going on plywood. Some is painted. Thinking I should at least scuff the paint for a better bond and maybe remove most of the paint.

 

[Loose Nut Buster]

I've put up alot of it both with adhesive and with their plastic color matching rivets.
My opinion, I'd use rivets vs adhesive since the adhesive skins over B4 you're ready to install causing somewhat of an issue, rivetsare simple...drill a hole(1/4") if I remember correctly, mark your rivet layout, drill, insert & repeat. Best & simplest way. If in drywall ... drill slowly as to not rip or elongate n same ole...drill n repeat.
Once done maintenance is a breeze, My opinion.
Added benefit is if 4 some reason U want to remove it, what would you rather do, drill a plastic rivet or !! [emoji2962]
A voice of experience.

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[joe_padavano]

X2 on the rivets. It sounds like the OP is putting FRP over some other existing wall covering (sheet rock?). In my shop I used FRP panels on the bottom and pegboard panels above. I just pop-riveted the FRP directly to the metal studs. No issues.

 

[3onthetree]

Rivets are an option, but adhesive will be fine. Rivets are necessary when there are huge swings in temperature, hopefully you don't have that in your shop. Don't remember the coverage per bucket, just make sure to apply to the FRP, not the plywood, in a cross-hatch pattern, then roller the FRP. Any paint on the plywood should be scuffed up or perforated like with a wallpaper removal tool, to break the "moisture seal."

 

[unslow1]

I hung a bunch this year in a food service environment. We used adhesive in large caulking guns. The biggest thing is making sure you have it where it will not slide before drying. There were a few spots we had to use the rivets. Mostly we used wood working style clamps and load controllers for trucks.

 

[nadogail]

I have FRP in my work shop bathroom, used the notched spreader to apply the adhesive and the plastic molding between the panels. The FRP is glued to drywall.

It has been about 15 years and it is as neat and clean as when it was new.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I think this is the stuff that has been put up in the water closet at the station and around the top over the fiberglass showers. There's no rivets used that I know of.

 

[samss]

Rivets are an option, but adhesive will be fine. Rivets are necessary when there are huge swings in temperature, hopefully you don't have that in your shop. Don't remember the coverage per bucket, just make sure to apply to the FRP, not the plywood, in a cross-hatch pattern, then roller the FRP. Any paint on the plywood should be scuffed up or perforated like with a wallpaper removal tool, to break the "moisture seal."

What he said.
The adhesive is waterbased, has to dry out to stick.

 

[DieselNut88]

I use titebond fastgrab and v notch trowel. j roller to apply pressure. This works great. I have use this multiple times. A gallon bucket might be enough for 6 sheets. I installed 4 feet tall by 12 feet long and did not use a whole 1/2 gallon bucket.

 

[Jlbc212]

Just a suggestion for cutting the FRP - I bought a Milwaukee 12v 3" compact cut-off saw https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Metalworking/Grinders/2522-20 for a vinyl siding job I did this summer at my son's house. I was pleasantly surprised how easy it worked to make long, straight cuts in the vinyl and with a minimum of dust, besides cutting the vinyl to length.

 

[oldcarpenter]

I have installed quite a lot of FRP panels in my career. The best method I have found is cutting material with electric sheet metal shears, and tin snips for dust free. Applying adhesive to the substrate works best. never used rivets. Back in the day we had flammable adhesive, bad fumes and even flamed one area with an errant cigarette lighter from a passer by.


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[Zmann]

Oldcarpenter I read this thread yesterday before you posted on my phone and wanted to reply
you actually posted exactly what I was going to say I have hung close to a 1000 sheets
between restaurants and restrooms ( small general contractors usually take this task on themselves )

I have always used tins nips and hole saws the solvent based FRP adhesive was great
( for headaches and tenant complaints) , the water based stuff works good enough )

some production FRP guys staple / nail the trim first I do not .
pay attention to the trim it can make or break the looks ,, don't stack the back of the trim onto each other and miter corners with a speed square and snip then clean up with a razor

 

[Norcal]

Use the 2 1/2 gallon pail of FRP adhesive, going to be cheaper & easier to use then 1 gallon size, works great & even applied it over old Marlite because it want all the way to the floor & the vinyl flooring was coved, & not being replaced, roughed up the finish with 120 grit paper on a 1/4 sheet sander & none has de laminated in the years since.