Hanging Garage Cabinets - Keep lower support, or remove it?

[Rockuf8]

Almost done with the drywall and mud in my garage and I will be reattaching my cabinets and add more as well. Previously I marked my height, drew a level line, installed/attached a 1x2 support screwed into every stud 16" OC on my desired line height, rested my cabinets on top of the 1x2's, and predrilled holes that matched up to the studs in the top and bottom of the cabinet where the 1x4's (or equivalent) are.

I left the 1x2's underneath as added support, but was wondering if I went for a cleaner look if I could remove the 1x2's and still have the cabinets hold the same weight I threw into them the past 6-7 years, which was a decent amount.

I guess I could always fill the holes and paint the 1x2's same color as the wall and they would disappear. Just wanted to find out what most of you guys usually do in this case when hanging pre made (kitchen/laundry room) style cabinets. The reason I was going to leave them in place was I wanted to use the tops of 5-6 cabinets to store extra wood trim (bb, chair rail, crown..etc) to get it out of the way since some pieces exceed 10ft in length. Previously, I had them stored on plywood shelving mounted on steel shelf brackets screwed into the studs with lag bolts, my guess is the weight was easily 100-150lbs worth of trim. I'm not using the steel shelves and am hoping the cabinets will be able to hold the weight.

 

[Vinci]

If the cabinets are attached to the walls sufficiently, that 1x2 isn't doing anything for you.

If you were concerned with having extra support for the cabinet (beyond whatever you used to mount the cabinets), then you would want to support the bottom of the cabinet towards the front, not the rear.

 

[premierplayer]

Cabs are in good shape, right? Not sagging and busted up joints...

Fasten the cabs to the studs through the upper and lower mounting rails, fasten the stiles together on the face frame and you should be good to go. I'm not seeing the need for the extra ledger.

 

[Rockuf8]

If the cabinets are attached to the walls sufficiently, that 1x2 isn't doing anything for you.

If you were concerned with having extra support for the cabinet (beyond whatever you used to mount the cabinets), then you would want to support the bottom of the cabinet towards the front, not the rear.

I was wondering where most of the force/weight would be on a fully loaded cabinet. I thought for sure the rear of the cabinet, my thinking was the top screws would be simply holding the cabinet against the wall, the lower ones would be holding most of the weight.

Cabs are in good shape, right? Not sagging and busted up joints...

Fasten the cabs to the studs through the upper and lower mounting rails, fasten the stiles together on the face frame and you should be good to go. I'm not seeing the need for the extra ledger.

Yeah, they're perfect, and the other cabinets I'll be hanging will be brand new. But we know how cheap cabinets are made, most stories I hear of them falling part and off the wall is from incorrect installation.

So you guys think they should be able to hold the weight easily then? I'll make sure I use 2 1/2 wood screws (like decking screws)and NOT drywall screws to hold everything against the wall.

What do you mean fasten the stiles together on the face frame? Screw the cabinets together through the sides?

Thanks

 

[84944Redline]

I agree that the 1"X2" is just a convenience as a ledge while hanging the cabinets back up and ensuring they are level (at least as level as your 1"X2").

I'd be more concerned with what screws to use as well as the material backing of the cabinets so the heavy load doesn't cause the screw head to pull through the material.

I used a french cleat system for all my cabinets and highly recommend it. One potential downside depending on your preference is the cabinets are not flush with the wall.

And another thing I did was to use another board on the inside of the cabinets to reinforce everything.

Maybe just using some high quality screws along with fender washers will be enough to make your cabinets hold.

Here's a few pictures (took it after writing the above because I don't think I'm doing a very good job of explaining)! Pictures usually tell enough without words...

 

[Rockuf8]

Ah, ok thanks. Yeah I will have to be sure NOT to countersink the screw heads like I did the first time, as they could potentially be pulled through the material, which I think is 1" partcile board(MDF?). Larger washers and lag bolts with a hex head sounds like the way to go, although not the prettiest.

 

[Big-Foot]

I don't like the idea of trusting a cabinet that has been back-mounted only. I've seen too many cases where the back of the cabinet starts pulling loose from the sides.
In almost every wooden (if you want to call MDF wood) cabinet I have mounted, I also include "L" brackets from the sides of the cabinet to the rear mounting point.
Metal cabinets are a different story..

 

[Rockuf8]

Not sure I understand the use of L brackets?

Like Is aid, these cabinets were mounted for several years with a lot of heavy powertools in them and held up fine, but storing spare wood on top of them is a different story I guess.

 

[JC23]

For most any cabinet I hang, I use a strip of wood inside to 'clamp' it to the wall studs. This especially true for the shop as it can get heavy.

And no, I do not use suspenders and a belt on my pants...

 

[premierplayer]

What do you mean fasten the stiles together on the face frame? Screw the cabinets together through the sides?

yes, by doing this you have made the wall, rear of the cab and front of the cab all one intrigal (sp) unit, it's as strong as it's gona get without putting legs under it.
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/step/0,,20183707_20498370,00.html

 

[NUTTSGT]

I left the 2x4 that is under the cabinets (above workbench). I figured I might use it in the future to mount something.

 

[JDishong]

I used a long 1" x 2" vertically mounted to the stud on the wall. I then screwed the cabinet "side panels" to this 1" x 2" (screw in from the side) which provides the support for the moment forces as shown here. The side walls are constructed with 3/4" plywood not MDF. The side walls acts as the "L" support in the photo.

 

[Rockuf8]

I figured screwing them together would just make all of them fall down if one became overloaded or weak.

Thanks for the info everyone, I like the idea of reinforcing the cabinet on the inside.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

I'd think the 1x2 under the cabinets would become the spot where you hang stuff from nails/screws/hooks?

 

[06 DIESEL]

This is the type of screw you want to use to mount the cabinets.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/082...rews-Clear-Zinc-Plated-Flat-Head-Square-Drive

I have hung off cabinets after using these screws, on every available stud, top and bottom, and have never had a failure. Also, make sure that you screw the face of the cabinets together also, preferably top, center, and bottom. I know for a fact that we have well over 200# in one cabinet in the garage currently that has been there for a year and no sign of failure, and the cabinet was taken out of a house when it was remodeled, original production date of the cabinets are 1980.

 

[Rockuf8]

I'd think the 1x2 under the cabinets would become the spot where you hang stuff from nails/screws/hooks?

Cool idea but I'm going for an ultra clean look, want every tool stored away out of view.

This is the type of screw you want to use to mount the cabinets.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/082...rews-Clear-Zinc-Plated-Flat-Head-Square-Drive

I have hung off cabinets after using these screws, on every available stud, top and bottom, and have never had a failure. Also, make sure that you screw the face of the cabinets together also, preferably top, center, and bottom. I know for a fact that we have well over 200# in one cabinet in the garage currently that has been there for a year and no sign of failure, and the cabinet was taken out of a house when it was remodeled, original production date of the cabinets are 1980.

You ROCK dude, thanks for the tip. Just ordered a box of 150 of the 3" (the 2 1/2" only had threads on half of the screw) from Amazon w/ overnight delivery for an extra $3.99, need them for tomorrow.

 

[PhantomEB]

You always need a hook somewhere, whether it be extension cord or something. I would leave it for the possible option down the road.

 

[Baada]

I was wondering where most of the force/weight would be on a fully loaded cabinet. I thought for sure the rear of the cabinet, my thinking was the top screws would be simply holding the cabinet against the wall, the lower ones would be holding of the weight

Actually, the opposite. The top screws are keeping the cabinet from tipping forward away from the wall and from falling straight down when loaded. They have a shear load and a tensile load. The bottom screws are necessary, especially if you remove the ledger board you put up, but they really only see a shear load. The top screws are the most critical with no front support. With a front support the top and bottom rear screws see roughly the same loading.

 

[Voi]

Just wanted to find out what most of you guys usually do in this case when hanging pre made (kitchen/laundry room) style cabinets.

I build my own shop cabinets so I haven't hung any pre made ones with heavy weight in mind.

All of my shop cabinets are hung from beveled cleats and many of them don't have backs so I can install a regular shelf standard system to the studs and very little of the weight ends up being carried by the cabinets themselves. The cabinets end up being more of a cover for a wall mounted shelf standard system.

If I came across some pre-made cabinets and felt their construction wasn't up to the weight I had in mind I would consider modifying them accordingly. In your case it sounds like you won't need to do this but I thought I'd mention it.

 

[Rockuf8]

You always need a hook somewhere, whether it be extension cord or something. I would leave it for the possible option down the road.

True.

Actually, the opposite. The top screws are keeping the cabinet from tipping forward away from the wall and from falling straight down when loaded. They have a shear load and a tensile load. The bottom screws are necessary, especially if you remove the ledger board you put up, but they really only see a shear load. The top screws are the most critical with no front support. With a front support the top and bottom rear screws see roughly the same loading.

Ah, ok, interesting.

I build my own shop cabinets so I haven't hung any pre made ones with heavy weight in mind.

All of my shop cabinets are hung from beveled cleats and many of them don't have backs so I can install a regular shelf standard system to the studs and very little of the weight ends up being carried by the cabinets themselves. The cabinets end up being more of a cover for a wall mounted shelf standard system.

If I came across some pre-made cabinets and felt their construction wasn't up to the weight I had in mind I would consider modifying them accordingly. In your case it sounds like you won't need to do this but I thought I'd mention it.

I think they're strong enough, the one cabinet has quite a bit of weight in it, and has powertools on top of it, I used regular screws and it's stayed up.

And thnaks 06 DIESEL for the tip.

This is why I love Amazon, ordered Thursday, $3.99 overnight shipping with Prime and I got them already, plus my employee discount . Still amazed at the diverse products they stock.

 

[thebreeze2012]

Actually, the opposite. The top screws are keeping the cabinet from tipping forward away from the wall and from falling straight down when loaded. They have a shear load and a tensile load. The bottom screws are necessary, especially if you remove the ledger board you put up, but they really only see a shear load. The top screws are the most critical with no front support. With a front support the top and bottom rear screws see roughly the same loading.

I have to agree with the top screws, here's a experiment I tried a few months ago when I hung my 3/4'' plywood cabinets.

I installed a ledger board, then installed a cabinet with two 1/4''x3'' lag screws on the top,I then removed the ledger board and grabbed the top of the cabinet in the front with 2 hands and Slowly put my weight on it, until I totally lifted myself off the ground.

At that time I probably weighed 220lbs with my boots and clothes on, so two 1/4'' lag screws with washers, held me, plus the weight of the cabinet,and it never made any noises,like it was about to fall or let loose.

As mentioned,you could always just leave it to hang stuff on or what ever,just paint it and it will blend in.

 

[Rockuf8]

But you said you removed your ledger and you evidently didn't need it. You also had 3/4" plywood cabinets which are way stronger than the ones I have. I'll see, right now I was just using a piece of wood that was 1" x 2", is that sizeable enough? If I left them I would definitely paint them so they blended in with the wall color.

 

[thebreeze2012]

That was just a experiment,I now have 3 screws in the top and screws running down the stud to the bottom of cabinet.

As you mentioned,my cabinets are probably a lot stronger and probably a good bit lighter,You should consider using some 1/4x3'' lag screws with washers for the top,you can buy a bag of 27 for like 5 bucks,some may say it's overkill,but I like overkill and overbuilt.