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Hanging Overhead Storage: Screw or Nail?

D45

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I am going to be building some overhead storage racks, build out of 2x4s

These will be suspended from the roof rafters and will **** up against wall

I know an air nailer (framing nailer) will be the fastest

I like screws, but seem they are much more time consuming to pre-drill and then screw in........plus it seems like screws are getting more expensive and the heads always strip out, especially when using them at odd angles

My thinking is that an air nailer will be much easier to use, especially since I will be doing the project myself

What do you guys suggest and why?
 
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p_mori7

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Nails are strong in SHEAR (side load).

Screws are strong in TENSION (pulling load).

It all depends on how you want to attach to the rafters.
 
OP
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D45

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They will just be for storing two long extension ladders and another area for storing totes

Not really too heavy
 
OP
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D45

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Do you guys pre drill when using screws?

I find it looks nicer and the wood doesn't split

Just eats up a lot of time
 

72Anthony

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Modern structural screws by Spax or GRK don't require pilot holes and are rated for both shear and tension (pull-out).
 

Jere

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I just made the same sort of thing. I used mostly self drilling decking screws, bu fort the tacking of the supports framing nails were used then screws followed. Seeing how the shelf frame was boxed, one style fastener really would have been enough.
 

bad_idea

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I would suggest lag screws attached to the rafters, I would fear nails coming out over time. Nails into wall studs.
 

gungatim

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I did something similar for hanging racks off my deck, so what I did was use the air nailer to quickly tack them up in place, then drill through the 2x4 and the truss. Put in 5/16 lag bolts for the shear strength.
 

transplant_wi

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Screws will be easier if you need to relocate something (as has happened to an *ahem* friend of mine ;) ) or later figure-out a better configuration.
 

rslaback

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Sounds like you need to experience a self-drilling torx drive screw. They will change your world.


41CJ4CRCP0L._SY300_.jpg
 

finn

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Another vote for the torx drive structural screws.

Deck screws are for fastening deck boards.

I started using the structural screws this summer for my "utility" fastening requirements and will never go back to the framing nailer or deck / drywall screws for general work.

The structural screws are self tapping and the larger diameters, at least, have a reverse thread near the top of the shank which really pulls the joint together.
 

404

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Sounds like you need to experience a self-drilling torx drive screw. They will change your world.


41CJ4CRCP0L._SY300_.jpg

Do you have a link to the ones you think are best? What downsides if any are there?

Torx is pretty awesome.

Regards,
404
 

FoxDen

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Sounds like you need to experience a self-drilling torx drive screw. They will change your world.

41CJ4CRCP0L._SY300_.jpg

I totally agree with this. I used them to build the over head storage OP is talking about in my garage. I also built my bench and used them for attaching cabinets to the wall. They've never failed me. It's also pretty dam tough to strip one out if your bit isn't rounding. I can post some pics if you're interested in seeing how I did mine.
 

FoxDen

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Also, I have these screws in a variety of lengths and store them in the big planters nuts plastic containers. When your working on a project you just grab whichever containers you think you need and you're off.
 

rslaback

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Do you have a link to the ones you think are best? What downsides if any are there?

Torx is pretty awesome.

Regards,
404

GRK is one of the best companies out there for them but there are some look alikes that work well too. The main things to look for:

- front drill tip
~this limits the need to predrill, essentially it creates its own pilot hole which prevents splitting out.

- torx drive
~ the torx drive is the best available drive style right now for general purpose fasteners. It doesn't cam out like a philips head will and has less issues of drive depth like a Robinson (square) drive has. It is pretty hard to strip them even when not driving at a perfect alignment.

- upper shank drill
~ a lot of people miss this feature but essential what the screw does is to drill out its own shank hole so that if you are combining two pieces they are not both engaged on the screw thread. A standard full thread can work like two nuts on a single bolt thread. No matter how many times you twist the thread the two will never pull tight to each other. This upper shank drill removes the thread from the outermost piece so the two can snug up.

- Self countersinking head
~ on the underside of the flathead (yes, that is what it is called) there is a flute formed. This allows the screw to countersink itself so it is easy to make sure it does not stand proud of the surface.


There is a lot of technology in these screws. You do pay a premium for that compared to the standard ancient phillips so be ready for that.

http://www.grkfasteners.com/index.php/en/products/r4
 
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zmotorsports

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I added something similar a couple of years ago over my machining/fabrication portion of the shop. I used 2x4's screwed into the ceiling/trusses, then 2x4's nailed into the walls where the plywood sits on top of placing the nails in shear and the screws in tension.

Mike.
 

C96

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Hey, you guys are forgetting another very important tool to complete this wonderful experience of screwing.

Totally agree with your screw choice

41CJ4CRCP0L._SY300_.jpg


But, to totally experience an awesome screwing, an impact driver like this is a must

bf323a53-56a3-473a-894b-4a912bd923f0_400.jpg


It's the only way I screw now days…
 

captain14

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Near College Park Maryland 20740
I totally agree with this. I used them to build the over head storage OP is talking about in my garage. I also built my bench and used them for attaching cabinets to the wall. They've never failed me. It's also pretty dam tough to strip one out if your bit isn't rounding. I can post some pics if you're interested in seeing how I did mine.

Please post photos of your overhead storage. Needing some inspiration.
 

FoxDen

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Here are a few pics I took through the process. I've made a few changes/additions since the "final" picture. That was taken in the week following completion (Feb 14). If you have any specific questions, let me know.
 

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OP
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D45

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I totally agree with this. I used them to build the over head storage OP is talking about in my garage. I also built my bench and used them for attaching cabinets to the wall. They've never failed me. It's also pretty dam tough to strip one out if your bit isn't rounding. I can post some pics if you're interested in seeing how I did mine.

Don't need to predrill with these?

Available at Lowe's, Home Depot, Menards?

How much do they cost, compared to Phillips head screws?
 
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OP
D

D45

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I love my impact also......bought a drill driver and impact set for $125 shipped

Brand new 18v combo lithium ion set.....very happy

Charger......Two batteries..... one drill driver and one impact

IMG_20131119_074003_208_zpsc700b67a.jpg


IMG_20131119_074045_235_zpsc28ba0bd.jpg


IMG_20131119_074055_810_zpsd87630f8.jpg



The overhead storage will be built at this location, high up towards the top of the walls, running the entire length and maybe 24" wide

IMG_20140404_194851_604_zpsj6a2z137.jpg



IMG_20141013_181820_719_zpszyewvazb.jpg




IMG_20141013_182116_010_zpsm6yb5vjy.jpg
 
OP
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D45

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Grip Fast 3" Construction Screw - 5lb Box
#2 Phillips Bit
$13.52


Grip Fast #9 x 3" Trim Head Exterior Screw - 1lb Jug
T20 Star Drive Bit
$8.45

Rugged Structural Screw 5/16 in. x 3-1/8 in. (45-Pack)
T30 Bit
$18.27

Are Torx head or Square drive heads better?
 
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wssix99

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Chicago, IL
I like screws, but seem they are much more time consuming to pre-drill and then screw in........plus it seems like screws are getting more expensive and the heads always strip out, especially when using them at odd angles

If you are asking this question, then you are planning on loading the trusses beyond what they are designed to hold. Those things are not designed for point loads hanging underneath. (Only distributed loads up top.)

You can do stronger shelves by supporting them with angled supports to the wall, vs. hanging from the ceiling.

If you need to hang for the ceiling, then I'd use 12D common nails and nothing larger. Hopefully that connection will fail before the roof does.
 

FoxDen

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Sep 29, 2009
Messages
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South Dakota
Don't need to predrill with these?

Available at Lowe's, Home Depot, Menards?

How much do they cost, compared to Phillips head screws?

Yes, I predrilled everything. I'm fairly particular and didnt want one single split. I buy them by the # at my local lumber yard or hardware store (small town).
 

BFBOB

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Sep 20, 2011
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Sounds like you need to experience a self-drilling torx drive screw. They will change your world.


41CJ4CRCP0L._SY300_.jpg

I used some of these just because I couldn't find any Phillips drives long enough. They drove into studs very nicely, plenty of strength for handrails. Downside is cost and needing a special driver bit. Torx=one size fits one. Phillips=one size fits many.
 

rslaback

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Westcentral Wisconsin
I used some of these just because I couldn't find any Phillips drives long enough. They drove into studs very nicely, plenty of strength for handrails. Downside is cost and needing a special driver bit. Torx=one size fits one. Phillips=one size fits many.

The T25 drives almost all of the sizes.
 
OP
D

D45

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I found a 5 pound box of the 3" long Grip Fast screw on craigslist for $10

Score
 
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