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Hanging Peg board......

Tamper84

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Mar 10, 2012
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310
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Clarington Ohio
So I just bought a new house and I’m limited on space. Going to hang peg board up in the basement and garage. (I can hear the groans now :lol_hitti ) Hey I grew up with my grandpa having his basement and garage like that as well, so I want to do the same thing. But one thing I never looked at is how he had them hung. Oh they will be hung on a cement block walls btw. I was thinking 1x1 framing and attach the framing either with anchors or tapcons. Which one would be better? Also screws or nails to attach the peg board. Or am I planning on this all wrong lol:dunno:

Thanks
Chris
 
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Kaizen

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New England
Consider what I did. Made a cabinet out of ply and made doors with pegboard in the middle. Basically a frame and panel setup. So I have peg hangers on outside and inside as shelves are inset. Plus have shelves to store items. Much better then just pegboard. Whatever you do make it easily removable


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Junkdrawer Dog

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LV NV
That's how I did mine in the old house. 1x1s and tapcons. Pegboard is nice in that you can reconfigure easily as your storage needs change. Makes a good rainy day project.
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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I painted my peg board white before hanging it.
I later found out you can get it pre painted.
 

tarmy

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Peg board heaven...use the thicker 1/4” pegboard...I mounted on 1x2 fir.
5807B089-91A0-48A6-B56F-10CEA294A02B.jpg
 

foodie

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Michigan
I had installed Diamond Life pegboard, drilled right into the concrete wall. It holds a ton of things not only because of all the slots, but literally you can hand a lot of weight on this particular product.
 

CraigStu

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Blacksburg, Va
If your ceiling joists are accessible consider slightly longer 1x2s so the bottom end sits on the floor and the top end can be screwed into the joist. No need to attach to concrete walls that way.
 

NUTTSGT

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Get your wall insulated first before you hang it if it's not already. Mine is spaced out from the wall with 2x material, either 2x2 or 2x4. The pegboard is hung with drywall screws.

I'd recommend using screws so you can take it down easily if need be in the future. Trying to pull nails back through pegboard will probably result in breaking it.
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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An additional vote for the 1/4 inch thick stuff.
The hooks used to be hard to find, but now I see them right next to the 1/8 hooks.

Don't be afraid to modify the hooks.
I re-bend, cut, and extend with tubing mine.
 
OP
T

Tamper84

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Mar 10, 2012
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Clarington Ohio
Thank you all!!!! I have never seen the 1/4 inch stuff. The only place I have found around me that sells peg board is Lowe’s. Maybe I could look again and see if they have thicker stuff.
Thanks,
Chris
 
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NUTTSGT

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I bought my 1/4" pegboard at Menards. Any of the three big box stores, Orange, Blue and Green, should have it listed on their website. No real reason to make the drive.
 

rharman

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Apr 22, 2012
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Don't forget you'll need to reinforce it at a few points so it doesn't wobble. I used a 3/4" hole saw to make small spacers and hot glued them on the back at evenly spaced intervals. The pilot bit hole is perfect for driving a screw through.
 

johnnyradiant

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Vancouver, BC
I'll add my vote for 1/4". I have a little at work but find the 1/4" hooks and mini "parts bin's" to be nicer to work with and stronger respectively.
 

rharman

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I used finishing washers when I attached my pegboard to the 1x frame. Better grip, I feel, plus it looks better than just a bare screw.

Oh yeah. ^^This^^... Absolutely. That's how I did mine. Looks good and the washer keeps you from tearing up the pegboard. It really helps.
 

metlmunchr

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Sep 10, 2011
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I've got a couple 4x8 sheets of 1/4" in my detached garage. When I initially put them up, I used only vertical spacers. Eventually took them back down and added a full perimeter frame of the same spacer material. Reason being, pegboard changes length somewhat with changes in humidity, and when only backed by verticals it tends to take on a sorta squiggly shape between the supports and looks like it was hung by some hamfisted cobbler.
 

rayra

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Escaped from Los Angeles
1x2s are available at any lumber store, ready made for what you want to do. a 1x1 is too scawny and prone to splitting unless you pre-drill. And who the hell wants to do that extra work?
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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Use hot melt glue on the pegs to keep them pulling out. I saw this tip here years ago.

ONLY AFTER YOU HAVE FOUND AN ARAGMENT THAT SUITS YOU.

You are negating the flexibility of the peg board concept.
 

robalmal

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Feb 3, 2011
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Triabunna Tasmania Australia
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Use hot melt glue on the pegs to keep them pulling out. I saw this tip here years ago.

ONLY AFTER YOU HAVE FOUND AN ARAGMENT THAT SUITS YOU.

You are negating the flexibility of the peg board concept.

I think you mean arrangement, but we get the gist of it. No need to shout.
Most hot melt glues tend to stay soft, and it is easy to remove the pegs again.
 

QwikKotaTx

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Aug 10, 2013
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967
Location
Seabrook, TX
Yeah, my Grandfather had pegboard all over his small workshop. Hard to get to with anything deeper than 18" in front of it. If I were going to use pegboard I would eat the cost on the metal pegpoard. Double check the way the slots run for how you want to use/mount it. They have a built in flange so no need for perling/strips to mount to as standoffs.
 

Lynden

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May 23, 2015
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Southern California
Look for pegboard made from "tempered" hardboard instead of "standard" (untempered) hardboard. Tempered hardboard is much stronger.
 

clubairth

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Dec 24, 2014
Messages
263
Yes get the 1/4" stuff and I use Hardened pegboard. Only could find it at a lumber yard and none of the big box stores even knew what I was talking about!

I also painted it white to help with keeping my shop nice and light filled. Really helps to have everything in full view. The problem with cabinets and shelving/boxes is nothing is visible so you end up storing a bunch of ****!

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