Hanging rebar techniques

[Smrtpunk]

I'm going to be doing a monolithic slab 37' * 16'.

A lot of the videos I've seen show rebar getting pounded into the ground in an attempt to shore up the horizontal runs. Is this a good technique? Are there other ways out there?

If anyone can post pictures of their rebar setups I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,
Ian

 

[1jjpop]

They make what you call chairs to hold your rebar where it belongs . I have seen people use bricks cut in half to hold up steel . Not a very good idea.

 

[Scott r c]

They make what you call chairs to hold your rebar where it belongs . I have seen people use bricks cut in half to hold up steel . Not a very good idea.

Maybe normal bricks, but some guys use solid concrete bricks.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

Yep, cut desired lengths of rebar to use as vertical supports and drive them in the ground and then tie wire them tightly to the mains. Keep wood stakes//bricks and other trash out of your new pour. JMO

 

[pstnbly]

Chairs or Dobies, Google is your friend.

 

[tlmartin84]

Slab Bolsters are the only way to do it..........

http://www.fostersupply.com/Products/Rebarandreinforcingproducts/SlabBolsters.aspx

Makes pouring easier than your typical chairs, and helps to eliminate rust issues caused by driving rebar into the ground.

 

[ConCretin]

I agree on the slab bolster. 'Continuous' slab bolster works great because the continuous runners won't poke holes in your vapor barrier or insulation. A row every 48" or so works great.

 

[tlmartin84]

When I worked in residential construction I saw concrete guys always struggling with mesh and rebar during the pours. Keeping it pulled up, stepping on and mashing the chairs, etc.

The moment I stepped onto my first bridge deck pour, I was like why in the world aren't guys using slab bolsters everywhere?

I know it is a little more effort, and a little more expensive, but I will never have another slab that does not have bolsters and rebar in it.

 

[Firebird 1]

Bolsters or chairs are the best way. You can get them from your rebar supplier. In the old days we would break a concrete brick in half and use those for support. Inspectors would not let us use clay brick. The bar and wire should be in the lower portion of the pour.

 

[Steves32]

3x3 wire dobies. Cheap & stay in place. Last thing you want is all your rebar laying in the dirt. Even Home Depot carries these.

We used some expensive plastic ones for driveway years ago & were a PITA. The rebar snapped into the top of support & all they did was flop over on their side when the concrete guys were pouring & dragging the pump hose around. I was busy as hell pulling up the rebar & repositioning the supports during the pour. The dobies worked better.

 

[MagKarl]

I just bought a bunch of plastic chairs from HD. They worked great and are pretty cheap, about $3 for 20.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rit...ir-20-Piece-IHCP21420R/202090708?N=5yc1vZc866

 

[dutchgray]

We use the plastic chairs to hold up the bottom layer of mesh and then continuous wire chairs to hold up the top layer of mesh, all tied together so it can't move about when the concrete floods in.

Here is a pic of one I did about a year ago.
View media item 50158The detail is hard to see but I don't have a close up. That one is 35' by 27' ish

 

[BD1]

When the neighbor did his , we drove rebar stakes into the ground and the welded the full lengths to the stakes. All stayed solid and firm.

 

[gtae07]

I used wire chairs in the bottom of the footer, and plastic cone-shaped chairs for the wire mesh up higher. City inspector said it was the neatest wire work he'd ever seen

 

[Firebird 1]

Inspectors will fail a pour if they see rebar stakes driven in the ground for support. The spike will eventually rust and continue thru to the horizontal bars. We use those for grade stakes only.

 

[BD1]

Inspectors will fail a pour if they see rebar stakes driven in the ground for support. The spike will eventually rust and continue thru to the horizontal bars. We use those for grade stakes only.

Interesting, never heard that. The local inspected passed it.

 

[Firebird 1]

I guess I should clarify "the inspectors in my area", I think they are correct with this application, but they tend to be a major pita

 

[gregtwojeeps]

Slab Bolsters are the only way to do it..........

http://www.fostersupply.com/Products/Rebarandreinforcingproducts/SlabBolsters.aspx

Makes pouring easier than your typical chairs, and helps to eliminate rust issues caused by driving rebar into the ground.

Good info, now those are as handy as shirt pockets.

 

[TOOL_MONGER]

The rebar stakes provide areas for moisture to enter the slab and deteriorate the reinforcing steel... we require chairs and don't allow any blocks... bricks etc...

 

[dutchgray]

The rebar stakes provide areas for moisture to enter the slab and deteriorate the reinforcing steel... we require chairs and don't allow any blocks... bricks etc...

Yep the steel has to be totally enclosed in concrete in the finished slab or it will rust.

 

[Firebird 1]

As long as were talking about rusting rebar, I will clarify. I use rebar grade stakes for footings, when we pour slabs I like to use a laser/grade stick for depth. If you use rebar grade stakes once you are to height pound them all the way down into the ground. I had a guy left them at elevation one time and ended up with metal spots in the finished slab. DUH!!!!

 

[Zeke]

Inspectors will fail a pour if they see rebar stakes driven in the ground for support. The spike will eventually rust and continue thru to the horizontal bars. We use those for grade stakes only.

Interesting, never heard that. The local inspected passed it.

Same here, no metal contact with soil.