To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Hanging shelf for air compressor

jawesy

Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2016
Messages
23
Location
St Laurent Manitoba Canada
Im looking for information to install a hanging shelf on my back wall that would span the length of my garage, aprox 29ft long and about 4ft deep and 8ft off the floor, in one corner I and to mount my 80 gallon compressor, any ideas on how to do this properly?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

bob15

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Messages
6,863
Location
Northeasten, CT
A picture or better description of where it is going would help. Pallet racks or something made of super-strut would probably work real nice.
 

csp

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
5,719
Location
Franktown, CO
My compressor sits 10' up on a small section of pallet racking. I wouldn't try to put it on anything hanging from the trusses.
 

DougWil

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2015
Messages
545
Location
NW Montana
29ft span, you will need steel and preferably a tube steel truss for that span unless you want a deep space hogging member or lots of sag.
It should be lag bolted to the walls not the trusses, and with a tube steel column in each 4 corners.
 

skipnay

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 11, 2014
Messages
600
Location
PA
Could you put 2x6 or 2x8 long ways standing up? Then put 3/4" ply wood down on top of that. I would run a chain or cable from the same wall 4' above the shelve and then run it to the outside of the 2x6 or 2x8. If you look at it from the side It would look almost like a triangle. I would do it at least every other stud at minimum. Probably both sides of the air compressor and I would move up to a 2x10 or 2x12. I would also run a 2x6 flat against the wall under the the wood you use for a lip for them to stand on.
 

penright

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 27, 2016
Messages
618
Location
SW of Mustang, OK
My compressor sits 10' up on a small section of pallet racking. I wouldn't try to put it on anything hanging from the trusses.
Just wondering, how big is the compressor and how did you get it up there?

Im looking for information to install a hanging shelf on my back wall that would span the length of my garage, aprox 29ft long and about 4ft deep and 8ft off the floor, in one corner I and to mount my 80 gallon compressor, any ideas on how to do this properly?
I guessing you try to suspend it cantilever out or would there be a post on the front edge, from the ground, supporting it? Sounded like you were talking cantilever.
You are talking a lot of weight and leverage. In @CSP example none of the load is being carried by building. It is 100% pallet rack. If you attach to the wall so well that it will not pull off, then what is holding the top of the wall from rotating in? So you tie it to the rafters, unless they were over engineer, the first heavy snow load and/or wind that happens to be the same direction as the shelf's load could overload the system.
 
OP
J

jawesy

Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2016
Messages
23
Location
St Laurent Manitoba Canada
I want it to be hanging, nothing in the way to the ground, I have 14 ft walls and 2x4 engineered trusses 30x30 shop metal roof

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 

matt_i

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,722
Location
SE Michigan
Imo efficient build of a mezzanine level added after the fact should include a couple of posts/columns. You definitely have the height to take advantage of it there!

For just a single compressor on something like a 4' x 4' shelf it could be accomplished with 1 support post, the other three would be tied into the existing framing. I would center-block a couple of studs in either direction to prevent column-buckling of the large balloon post members. The next challenge is how to rig it up there. A forklift would do a nice job.
 
Last edited:

ard

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
4,391
Location
Sierra Foothills... California
I want it to be hanging, nothing in the way to the ground, I have 14 ft walls and 2x4 engineered trusses 30x30 shop metal roof

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Sounds like you want to build a mezzanine, but have it hanging from the roof trusses.

(you know where this is going...)

figuring 50 lb/sqft, you will be at 29x4x50= 5800 lbs. None of those trusses was designed to carry that weight. (Had you specd that, perhaps they would have put 2 or 3 tied together when the roof was stacked?? Dunno..)

You could bury a fat steel beam (or engineered lumber or steel truss) up in the ceiling, across the top plates (appropriate posts to transfer load to the footings on each end) but still have a few cables that would hang down. Or just put the beam in the shelf itself and have an open mezzanine.

TBH I like the idea of reclaiming that space, but I am a fan of machinery sitting on concrete for noise reasons.


A four foot shelf will generate a lot of force (5800 lbs worth) and if you try and just attach it to the rear wall with brackets, etc, there will be a large moment looking to pull that rear wall in...
 
OP
J

jawesy

Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2016
Messages
23
Location
St Laurent Manitoba Canada
Sounds like you want to build a mezzanine, but have it hanging from the roof trusses.

(you know where this is going...)

figuring 50 lb/sqft, you will be at 29x4x50= 5800 lbs. None of those trusses was designed to carry that weight. (Had you specd that, perhaps they would have put 2 or 3 tied together when the roof was stacked?? Dunno..)

You could bury a fat steel beam (or engineered lumber or steel truss) up in the ceiling, across the top plates (appropriate posts to transfer load to the footings on each end) but still have a few cables that would hang down. Or just put the beam in the shelf itself and have an open mezzanine.

TBH I like the idea of reclaiming that space, but I am a fan of machinery sitting on concrete for noise reasons.


A four foot shelf will generate a lot of force (5800 lbs worth) and if you try and just attach it to the rear wall with brackets, etc, there will be a large moment looking to pull that rear wall in...
Thanks, it would be along the back wall where I could use the 2 side walls and back wall for support, would need to use some threaded rods to support the front of it, want to see how to connect the threaded rod's for the trusses to handle the weight, use a long board across a few trusses?

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 

jgregt

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2016
Messages
20
Location
Raleigh, NC
Sounds like you are talking about something like this? Previous owner of my house put this up.
 

Attachments

  • 20161123_155124b.jpg
    20161123_155124b.jpg
    133 KB · Views: 328

mike93lx

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
37,382
Location
Richmond, VA
Thanks, it would be along the back wall where I could use the 2 side walls and back wall for support, would need to use some threaded rods to support the front of it, want to see how to connect the threaded rod's for the trusses to handle the weight, use a long board across a few trusses?

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Your trusses won't be able to support that much weight. It doesn't matter how many you span.

You need to do something independent of the roof
 

DougWil

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2015
Messages
545
Location
NW Montana
Kinda, I just don't want any studs coming to the ground, I want it to be hanging so it's no obstructions underneath it

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

The posts should be in the wall concealed, with only the beam projecting out, and a ledger on the back wall.

If you 'hang it' from the trusses or top of wall you have added a significant dead load and depending on the seismic factors in your area, and how much you load it up, a seismic lateral load that your building wasn't designed for.
 

theoldwizard1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,077
Location
SE MI
This is almost EXACTLY what I have and I love it ! 2 differences; my garage is only 20' wide and the shelf is only about 5' off the ground. What you are building a mezzanine and there are many thread here on how to do it. Here are 3: Building a loft Mezzanine time My loft/elevated workshop garage project

Read them carefully. LISTEN bczygan !! He was an architect/structural engineer.


  • You first problem is finding any king of lumber, natural or man made, that will span 30'.
  • Second problem is supporting it in the middle with out a just dropping a post straignt down to the floor. (They cheated on mine. I has an angle that runs from the front of the shelf down at an angle to the footer)

If you are going to put heavy stuff up there, MAKE USER ALL BEAMS SIT DIRECTLY ON POSTS THAT CONNECT TO THE FLOOR
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

jgregt

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2016
Messages
20
Location
Raleigh, NC
Kinda, I just don't want any studs coming to the ground, I want it to be hanging so it's no obstructions underneath it

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

I understand. When I bought the place, my home inspector said that was too much dead load, so the homeowner put in a bunch of posts and braces.

I don't have anything very heavy up there, so my builder/carpenter guy said a pair of posts would be fine if I was concerned. I am a cautious person so I left them there since they don't interfere with how I have things laid out.

I find it a great use of space for things I don't need on a regular basis and it's easy enough to grab the step ladder if I do.
 

lakeroadster

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2015
Messages
5,166
Location
Central Colorado
There are advantages to floor mounting the compressor. The vibration inherent in it's operation will resonate into the building if it is attached to the walls.... that and you'll have to climb up to it for access.

MAKE SURE ALL BEAMS SIT DIRECTLY ON POSTS THAT CONNECT TO THE FLOOR

Or, the other option, as Bill points out in the "Building A Loft" link previous posted:

Attention should be paid to the fastening and support of this ledger beam. I would lag bolt it with at least 2 3/8" lag bolts at each column and support it with a 2x6 or wider fastened to the face of each column.
 
Last edited:

vekster

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 26, 2013
Messages
405
Location
Ontario, Canada
what if you angled the supports back to the wall under the shelf. then you would not have any supports to the floor at least.

Nice shop. I am building this summer with 14' walls and am worried it will look to tall.
yours looks nicely proportioned.
keep the pics coming as you get it finished!
 
OP
J

jawesy

Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2016
Messages
23
Location
St Laurent Manitoba Canada
what if you angled the supports back to the wall under the shelf. then you would not have any supports to the floor at least.

Nice shop. I am building this summer with 14' walls and am worried it will look to tall.
yours looks nicely proportioned.
keep the pics coming as you get it finished!
Thanks, I will post more pics as it goes on

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 

ard

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
4,391
Location
Sierra Foothills... California
Thanks, it would be along the back wall where I could use the 2 side walls and back wall for support, would need to use some threaded rods to support the front of it, want to see how to connect the threaded rod's for the trusses to handle the weight, use a long board across a few trusses?

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

I know precisely what you WANT. Problem is that the side walls only 'support' the shelf for a few feet. When you are in the middle of that 29 ft span, 14.5 feet from either side wall, it is the beam at the front lip that is supporting the shelf. "fine" you say, you add some rods. Now those rods are hanging from a truss that was only ever designed to hold sheetrock and lights. Seriously.

If you were to lay boards above that bottom chord of the trust, so that say 4 of them were 'captured' by the board, then it is slightly better. Then you are, effectively, loading 8 ft by 29 ft of the ceiling with whatever load you hang. It still doesnt change the fact that that trust was likely never designed to carry more than minor dead loads of ceiling and fixtures.

I think you are being misled by pictures of unistrut projects and what not. You want a shelf to hold a tire or two, some sporting goods and christmas ligths, fine. But a 300 lb compressor- and loads like that?? A few years of sliding parts and **** up there and you have a 'situation'

;)
 

Ruthless53

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2014
Messages
131
Location
Conroe, TX
Could you put 2x6 or 2x8 long ways standing up? Then put 3/4" ply wood down on top of that. I would run a chain or cable from the same wall 4' above the shelve and then run it to the outside of the 2x6 or 2x8. If you look at it from the side It would look almost like a triangle. I would do it at least every other stud at minimum. Probably both sides of the air compressor and I would move up to a 2x10 or 2x12. I would also run a 2x6 flat against the wall under the the wood you use for a lip for them to stand on.

I agree with this. Measure exact width and divide by three. Build three torsion box frames the depth you want. Cover in plywood top and bottom.

To mount it extra secure mount a level 2x4 ledger around the wall for the torsion box's to rest on. Then also screw in torsion box with long screws from top and bottom at an angle into the studs and also some pocket screw from the ledger to the bottom of torsion boxes.

Hang two sturdy chains at the torsion box joints either to the ceiling or to the back wall. Create a small Y of chain to connect to each side of the joint.

Should hold anything you would ever want to put on it. May also add a chain just outside of where the compressor would sit.
 

ard

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
4,391
Location
Sierra Foothills... California
Hang two sturdy chains at the torsion box joints either to the ceiling or to the back wall. Create a small Y of chain to connect to each side of the joint.

Should hold anything you would ever want to put on it. .

Not to harp on this, but are you saying the single 2x4 roof truss across that 29 ft span will carry your 3 chains from the shelf and will handle "anything you ever want to put on it"?

That 'torsion box' will in fact resist shear in the plane of the shelf (!!!) not carry any load downwards. There is ZERO need for plywood on the bottom.

I dont know what is worse- chaining it to the truss, or chaining it to the rear wall and twisting that wall into the garage...
 

Ruthless53

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2014
Messages
131
Location
Conroe, TX
Not to harp on this, but are you saying the single 2x4 roof truss across that 29 ft span will carry your 3 chains from the shelf and will handle "anything you ever want to put on it"?

That 'torsion box' will in fact resist shear in the plane of the shelf (!!!) not carry any load downwards. There is ZERO need for plywood on the bottom.

I dont know what is worse- chaining it to the truss, or chaining it to the rear wall and twisting that wall into the garage...

My ceiling joists above my garage are 2x10. i couldn't imagine a span above the garage being framed with 2x4 uand if its a truss roof garage I would think ait would be built to have the equivalent strength of a 2x10.

You have a 2x4 ledger screwed into the wall studs running around 3 sides of the shelf for the torsion box to sit on and it will hold most of the weight by itself. The chains would really be holding back any outward pushing force away from the wall. Not so much the force down.


Just building a torsion box frame would hold considerable weight without chains because its resting on the ledger. Chains bolted to a ceiling or wall stud would make it able to support a **** ton of weight.

Im not saying put the compressor in the middle of the shelf. Im talking about putting the heavy compressor and anything else heavy in the corners. But the shelf in the middle should still be plenty strong enough to hold plenty of weight. I would also put metal straps across the two joints front and back and top to bottom. and yes with 2x6's i still don't see where you would ever have a problem.

I built shelves similar in my garge without the frame and I only have one corner not two. Had 6 home depot bins loaded with heavy stuff, two vices, and alot of other junk up there and never had an issue. I would add chains only if I was going compressor heavy.
 
Last edited:

mikegt4

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 12, 2005
Messages
3,263
Location
sw ohio
Your trusses won't be able to support that much weight. It doesn't matter how many you span.

You need to do something independent of the roof

I am in this camp. I have a suspended shelf (10' wide, 2' deep) that only gets my low density light weight stuff.

I would consider a beam supported at each end from the floor, better yet bite the bullet and have a support post from the floor mid span. That would halve the span distance and reduce the beam strength requirement considerably. Since the air compressor is a main factor why not make something like a 4'-5' x 4' compressor closet mid span in place of a post and use that as a support structure. This will reduce your span length even more. A bit of noise insulation and the fact that the compressor is on the concrete floor will help make it a good neighbor inside your shop. This will get you a 12' wide open space on each side of the closet and your full width of the shop x 4' deep shelf.
 
Last edited:

padroo

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2011
Messages
564
Location
Chesterton, In.
Put the compressor in the corner but don't put it on the shelf. Build a small storage room in the corner and mount the air compressor on top of it. Start your shelf even with the top of the room at aircompressor level.
It would solve the problem of so much concentrated weight in one area. The room could be a bathroom or even a heated storage room to store items that freeze.
 

Ruthless53

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2014
Messages
131
Location
Conroe, TX
I have to be missing something. The trusses are not going to be supporting 5800 pounds. Three walls and the truss will be supporting 5800 pounds.

What I'm saying is build three torsion boxes, set those aside, put a 4 foot ledger board on each outside wall and 29 foot of ledger board on the backside of the wall. Then rest the torsion boxes on top of the ledger and lag them to the studs as well.

The walls would then be supporting most of the weight and the little bit of weight towards the center pushing out would be all that's being supported by the chain. If you're still worried about it, put straps across the joints and a right angle under each joint and all the weight would be on the walls. There's no home use compressor in the world that wouldn't hold.
 
Last edited:

Iroc-Z

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2006
Messages
720
Location
New Germany, MN
I built a loft spanning 48 feet on my back wall that is 6 feet deep. Put my 60 gallon compressor without issue. It has three supports holding lvls with two more supports on the ends that I put in the walls. I the just ran a header on the back wall with lag bolts. Seems plenty strong for me.
 

ard

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
4,391
Location
Sierra Foothills... California
This thread has convinced me that there are engineers and non-engineers....

You want engineering input, ask.

But open ended "I wanna build a shelf, will it fall down" questions are a fools errand. Concepts like shear, moment, tributary area, live and dead loading are pointless when faced with "mine didn't fall down and I used LVLs and three posts- hence yours which is 29 feet without posts should be fine"
 

IndyGarage

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2010
Messages
9,669
Location
Indy
You might look at a span of pallet rack. You can get it in 36 inch, 42 inch or 48 inch wide. Beams can be 8 feet, 9 feet or 12 feet. of course this would put a post in the middle of the floor, however it will be able to hold whatever you want to put on it.

I have about 60 feet of it along one wall of my shop, holding probably 5-10 tons of stuff.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom