Harbor freight 1/2" torque wrench
- Thread starter bubinga
- Start date
So are you saying even if it was torqueing all the studs to 110 ft lb instead of 100 foot pound they would still be even?
I know a lot of people say the actual torque ( I mean within reason)
Is not as important as tightening it evenly, as far as any chance of warping rotors or hubs.
I mean I know I have just tightened up wheels a lot of times with an impact ,(not gotten crazy with it now, as I feel I have a pretty good feel for it,)
Or just tightened them with a breaker bar on my own cars and have not had any problems.
(I always tightened in a star pattern)
I started using torque sticks and torque wrenches more on customers cars than my own just hopefully to avoid problems.
But when I brought this car the rotors were real bad the front ones I've never drove a car that shook so bad on
I didn't have none of my tools to change the rotors myself so I had to have a garage do it and the braking is perfect.
I just thought I'd get a torque wrench to hopefully keep everything even and not over torqued and especially not to chance warping the rotors.
Again I feel I have a pretty good feel for tightening them evenly but I just want to make sure.
Last edited:
Lucid Moments
Well-known member
I have a hard time believing that a person using a normal sized wrench without extensions could accidentally use enough force to warp an iron brake rotor. I am excluding intentional misuse of tools and gross negligence.
Maybe some rust jacking could cause such a problem if it happened unevenly across the hub face? I don't know for sure since that isn't a problem I see much down here.
Honestly on my street cars I just use an electric impact judiciously and on my track cars I run them down with the impact and tighten with a mid-length half inch ratchet.
I understand what you are saying. I don't know I know everywhere you read they say in proper tightening can cause warpage, and I have read especially uneven torqueing.
I know when I first got that car, as I stated I never had a car that shook so bad on braking.
And it had one of the front studs missing I had it replaced.
Now surely one missing stud would cause uneven torque.
Now why exactly those rotors were so warped I do not know.
Like I said on my own cars I've tightened them plenty of times with just an impact or just a breaker bar and haven't had any problems.
I'm just a little bit OCD and I want to continue not having problems.
Just curious if anybody ever heard of or use these Olsa brand torque wrenches?
Hopefully you would never need the warranty on the precision instruments brand looks like they're offering a lifetime warranty on this one
olsatools.com
There is a video reviewing it further down.
Hopefully you would never need the warranty on the precision instruments brand looks like they're offering a lifetime warranty on this one
All About Split-Beam Torque Wrench | Olsa Tools
Read all the details about the split beam torque wrench!
olsatools.com
Lucid Moments
Well-known member
Well a missing stud is both pretty obvious and pretty egregious. I would only drive a car missing a lugnut far enough to resolve the situation and no further. I am thinking about with everything present and is decent condition and a normal person making an attempt to be even.
Still there is certainly no harm is using a torque wrench and it is quite probably a good habit to start.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Correct. When I say even, I mean not having one stud at 200, one at 45, one at 120, and one at 80. Consistency is key. And a clean surface without a giant mountain of white crust at the hub preventing the wheel from sitting flush. You can torque it all day, if the wheel isn't actually flush with the mounting surface, it's coming off. 80ft/lbs on a torque wrench ain't crushing the wheel through that corrosion - it's gotta be clean.
UNPOPULAR OPINION WARNING:
People over think this. It's an M12 or M14 stud. It can handle a lot of torque. People see the impact nut busting numbers and think that's how tight the fasteners are actually getting tightened at. As long as the torque is kind of even, and between say 70 and 140 ft/lbs, it'll be just fine.
Kscardsfan
Well-known member
I can’t speak to automotive work, but I was told in my oilfield days that even, consistent torquing of all your breaks/connections is more important than hitting the actual specified number dead nuts.
while i know nothing specifically about PI brand torq wrenches, it looks as if all their models are easily affordable and usa made (best i can tell). considering those two things ,why even bother with HF ? im betting youll use it for much more than just lug nuts.
yes
Normally I would agree with you,
and yes it's (the PI brand) affordable but I have been spending way too much money at this point.
Sometime down the road yes I may be doing bigger projects but at the moment, not so much.
Right now I will be torqueing my wheels and possibly some minor suspension
( lower control arms)
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
My HF one tested OK on the Snap On truck, but I hated the way the handle lock thing works every time I used it, and when I went to torque down a 110lb bolt, part of the head flew off into the woods. I got a replacement, and loan it to anyone dumb enough to ask.
Briancapecoral
Well-known member
Autozone has a $15 beam style. No setting or zeroing just tighten until the needle points where you want it. Perfect for things like lugs.
Terra Nova
Well-known member
I have the same problem with mine on occasion. I used to set it to a lower torque value than I needed and make sure it clicked before tightening down what I cared about.
Ended up getting a 1/2" Husky torque wrench when they were still made in the US (Proto I believe?). That's been a great wrench. Anything super critical I grab a snap-on digital from work.
Last edited:
Well, I might (Down the road some time) get a PI
1/2" drive, ~40-50 FT. Lbs. To 250 Ft. Lbs. Split beam, some of you all was telling me about.
But for now, l split the difference, $$$ wise and went with the, https://www.homedepot.com/b/N-5yc1v/Ntk-LongTailMatch/Ntt-tekton+1/2+in.+drive+click+torque+wrench+10-150+ft.-lb.?NCNI-
Thanks for all the thoughts and experience.!
1/2" drive, ~40-50 FT. Lbs. To 250 Ft. Lbs. Split beam, some of you all was telling me about.
But for now, l split the difference, $$$ wise and went with the, https://www.homedepot.com/b/N-5yc1v/Ntk-LongTailMatch/Ntt-tekton+1/2+in.+drive+click+torque+wrench+10-150+ft.-lb.?NCNI-
Thanks for all the thoughts and experience.!
Last edited:
65ranchero
Well-known member
I was always told to unload the spring when it is being stored, I think I leave mine at a very low number but never on zero.
On my clickers I turn it down to the lowest setting. Even on my split beams I usually do but only because it bugs me otherwise and only takes seconds to go back to the lowest setting.
On split beams you're suppose to creep up to torque number and so if it's set to the lowest number it's never an issue.
On split beams you're suppose to creep up to torque number and so if it's set to the lowest number it's never an issue.
Torque Wrench Storage and Things to Know About Torque Wrenches
Tips about how store your torque wrenches, how to set them accurately, things to do to extend the life of your tools and other safety tips.
Great point. I have a PI 3/8" torque wrench and one of the first times using it I stripped bolt threads because I didn't hear or feel the click. It was at the lower end of the range. OTOH, my C'man DigiTorque that I've had for a couple of decades clicks with authority, at all ranges. Now that I'm aware of the PI idiosyncrasy it's not a problem.
Last edited:
Get a half inch beam type wrench. So long as it's not bent, the handle is not broken or packed with crud, and the needle centers when there's no torque, it's good. If the needle doesn't center, vent it back.
Your old Craftsman beam style torque wrench has a lifetime warranty if they still make them. Only torque wrench that has that
The way I do it is to put a deep impact socket on the wrench and clamp it lightly in the vise, enough so I can still rotate it but it holds it's position. Take a milk jug and fill it with a known amount of water. I use a large plastic graduated cylinder to measure out by the liter. Tie a loop of heavy fishing line or cord to the jugs. For ftlb measurements, the weight of the milk jug and lime is negligible but if your ocd you can weigh the jugs. You can use several jugs if you need them. You can also use a 5 gallon bucket. Again, I usually just assume that the weight of the bucket is negligible compared to 5 gallons of water. I would measure the water rather that just assume the bucket is 5 gallons. (You can make some marks on the bucket of you want for future reference then you won't have to do it again. Same with milk jugs. Water weighs 1kg/L. Convert that to lbs. (At standard temp.and pressure, but we're not building a Space Shuttle). Use a level to make sure the beam is, well, level. Now the weight will hang off the wrench at 90 degrees. Measure the distance from the pivot point on the socket to where the loop goes over the wrench.
from that you can calculate the torque. Verify it reads right and several points on the scale.
varistion in your technique and difficulty getting the wrench level will affect the measurements but it should come out pretty accurate.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
Something they failed to mention is exercising the spring.Torque Wrench Storage and Things to Know About Torque Wrenches
Tips about how store your torque wrenches, how to set them accurately, things to do to extend the life of your tools and other safety tips.www.ultratorq.com
Some manufacturers recommend before each use, run it up to the max torque setting and back down to the lowest, multiple times.
Aint nobody got time for that, but ill usually do it once.
This is a few of the torque wrenches I have. The oldest one is the Husky from the 90s. Haven’t had any problems from the Harbor Freight ones. As long as they pass calibration. I have a few CDI as well. I always put them back to the lowest setting whatever I’m done with them. The company provides Snap On/CDI. They got abused by the mechanics and they fail calibration. I only let one other person In the hanger use my calibrated tools. If you plan on getting the Harbor Freight one I would try to find a way to see how accurate it is.
Attachments
joshmodelskidoo
Well-known member
They work fine for stock vehicles. I use that one to do heads on a chevy cruise and im just finishing up the head gaskets on my ram. I have had good luck with them. The only reason I would go with something different is if a was building a race engine or was a pro mechanic using it every day. I will say that if you do need a torque angle gage my recommendation is probably to get a torque wrench with one built it. I used an old school beam style torque wrench for years and those are cheap and accurate
putergod
Well-known member
I won't touch a cheap chinese/taiwanese torque wrench. If you need to use one, then it tells me that what you're tightening needs to be precise. I have a mix of Armstrong, Proto, and Precision Instruments torque wrenches.
why not? you can get them calibrated and honestly theirs nothing that mechanically complex in a torque wrench
putergod
Well-known member
A. Because I don't trust them to be accurate, nor do I want to have to keep having them tested to feel comfortable with them.
B. Because it's not like you need 50 different torque wrenches, so just spend a little more and get a couple good ones.
C. Because I don't send my money to China if I can help it.
D. Because I like to support companies that don't a. rip off the customers with pure greed (Snap-On) and b. keep manufacturing here at home.
E. Because I have ZERO doubt my American made torque wrenches will FAR outlast HF torque wrenches. And while any of them would possibly outlast ME, I intend to pass my tool collection down when I go.
F. And finally, because IF (big if) I ever get to the point I need to sell my tools, used American tools are far more valuable than used SE Asian tools.
That's why I always recommend to people to get the beam type ones. They are cheap and there is very little to go wrong. Check it, and if it passes your good. Keep it in a safe place so it doesn't get damaged and don't let it rust. So long as you do that it won't go bad. It's just a metal bar with an indicator needle.