Harbor Freight 3 ton Jack stand caution

[SMKS]

Got a set of HF 3 ton jack stands that are working okay but because of this thread I went to check them out. What's your opinion on the shear pin that is sticking out? Hammer it back in or exchange them for a higher capacity pair or return them? Got a set of the Craftsman 4 ton pro set from the recent sale last month.

Just push it back into place and you're good to go. As noted before, all it does is connect the handle to the pawl. It's a built-in weak point so that it will break before you're able to release the pawl under load and drop the stand.

 

[CobraRed]

So let me guess... we all already own the exact same stands with different colors of paint, right?

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

Ding ding ding ding

 

[Wuaname]

Toss the tire and rim underneath the frame as well...

Thats what i do as well. My made in china jack stands never gave me any problems and at one point i had a car i was restoring on the stands for months.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nicksnothereman]

I try to work at bare height if I can. Typically okay height for oil changes for me, used it for brakes before. Always leave a jack per side rested (no load) on each side. Haven't had any issues. I hate working under jack stands though, I'm thinking of going to ramps again even if I have to jack to get them on the ramps properly. One of the things I don't mess around with.

 

[mrvm]

Just push it back into place and you're good to go. As noted before, all it does is connect the handle to the pawl. It's a built-in weak point so that it will break before you're able to release the pawl under load and drop the stand.

Thanks, I'll tap the pin back in and keep an eye on them. The pin probably came that way from the factory and passed their quality inspection (or not) since the jack stands have only been used once. Its somewhat comforting to know now that if the shear pin breaks the jack stand still holds the weight

 

[Steve_P]

One of my HF stands sheared the pin and I didn't notice it until later.

the pin joins the locking ear to the bar and the weight of the bars extension then pulls the ear into the cast upright. If the two are pinned together. When I used my stand I raised it up to where I wanted it, thought it was engaged properly, it seemed fine, and when I moved the stand a few inches the cast portion fell into the stamped portion. So basically you can have it partially locked, on the edge, and it can then collapse when the locking ear slips out. The pin prevents this from happening, or greatly increases success.

I also have a homemade set that uses a pin thru holes like the esco. I trust this design much more.

 

[ajchien]

I'd like to bring up something's else, sort of related.

Theres an additional roll pin that is usually put into the bottom of the ratcheting bar. Although it seems like this is so that the ratcheting bar does not fall out of the stand, but I think it's to prevent you from overextending the bar.

At one time, I had left these roll pins out, and it turns out that you can extend the stands up to a maximum point where it seems like it locks into place, yet it's really not. It's just crooked enough that the ratchet bar staying up without the pawl being engaged . It actually can still hold the weight of the car up, and if you shake the whole stand, it'll all come down.

FWIW, I have 2 sets of stands, and this problem occurs in one of the stands. The other set of stands does not have enough teeth in the bar to allow me to over extend it.

Obviously, I've put in these roll pins to prevent me from overextending the stands.