Harbor Freight done with code Readers?

[zendriver]

Just happen to notice, with the exception of a cheapie and a heavy truck model, HF has all of it's "Zurich" code readers on clearance, with nothing new to replace them.

Wonder if they want to push buyers to the more expensive tablet-based diagnostic tools? I have a couple of their readers, seem to be fine. Maybe people didn't want them, if they couldn't steal them.

ZR13s OBD2 Code Reader with ABS/SRS/FIXASSIST

Amazing deals on this Zr13S Abs/Srs Obd2 Code Reader at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[Pauldro]

They might be coming out with a version 2 of these

 

[Wamsutta]

Make sure it has a drive cycle check list. That way you'll know if your car is ready for smog.

 

[zendriver]

They might be coming out with a version 2 of these

Perhaps, but it seems like Harbor freight usually comes out with a new products first (Hercules SCT) before they put the old stuff on clearance

Wouldn’t be surprised to see them go away for good since it doesn’t really make a lot of sense to pay one to $300 + for those type of readers

Either buy an El cheapo that reads and resets codes or an expandedfeature tablets for $400 end up

 

[signcrafter]

I don't have experience with HF code readers so not sure what all they are capable of but if they are strictly a code reader then I would say they aren't really something I would buy unless you just want to throw parts at something and hope it fixes it. All a code reader can do is give you a code, guess it gives you a starting point but that's it. Now your at a dead end road as far as diagnosing the real issue. No clue what they cost but you can run to parts store and get the same done for free. Or buy a bluetooth obdii adapter for cheap and use your phone and most will do more then just read codes. Guess I don't see a market for strictly a code reader.

 

[zimman]

Unless you're a professional that works on many different platforms, a simple reader will be fine. Most codes are typical throughout all manufactures. The operative word in my statement is "professional" I've been in the business a long time and all I have is a $53 MATCO reader.
Zim

 

[Codyboy]

I don't have experience with HF code readers so not sure what all they are capable of but if they are strictly a code reader then I would say they aren't really something I would buy unless you just want to throw parts at something and hope it fixes it. All a code reader can do is give you a code, guess it gives you a starting point but that's it. Now your at a dead end road as far as diagnosing the real issue. No clue what they cost but you can run to parts store and get the same done for free. Or buy a bluetooth obdii adapter for cheap and use your phone and most will do more then just read codes. Guess I don't see a market for strictly a code reader.

Unless you're a professional that works on many different platforms, a simple reader will be fine. Most codes are typical throughout all manufactures. The operative word in my statement is "professional" I've been in the business a long time and all I have is a $53 MATCO reader.
Zim

I'm with signcrafter. Ok so my reader tells me I have a P0300. Cool.
It doesn't tell me which cylinder though.
I guess with a lot of extra work I could start with #1 and just work down the line. Maybe I'll get lucky by the time I make it #8.
Or get a scan tool and monitor exactly which cylinder(s) have a misfire.
I had this happen and on another board people were saying just replace all the plugs and wires, replace all the coils..
Well turned out it was none of that. Turned out it was a bad injector on #8. I would have wasted a lot of time and money with just a reader.

Also the reader I have doesn't do anything for resetting things like the AC system actuators or make those things operate for testing either.
Heck I don't think it will even read those codes for a lot of that stuff.
It will read emissions stuff and let you know which code has set your CEL. But thats it.

And no I'm not a professional but I do all of my own mechanic work to my vehicles.
So I bought a bidirectional scan tool. Should have done it long ago and stopped all the guess work.

 

[richfinn]

I'm with signcrafter. Ok so my reader tells me I have a P0300. Cool.
It doesn't tell me which cylinder though.
I guess with a lot of extra work I could start with #1 and just work down the line. Maybe I'll get lucky by the time I make it #8.
Or get a scan tool and monitor exactly which cylinder(s) have a misfire.
I had this happen and on another board people were saying just replace all the plugs and wires, replace all the coils..
Well turned out it was none of that. Turned out it was a bad injector on #8. I would have wasted a lot of time and money with just a reader.

Also the reader I have doesn't do anything for resetting things like the AC system actuators or make those things operate for testing either.
Heck I don't think it will even read those codes for a lot of that stuff.
It will read emissions stuff and let you know which code has set your CEL. But thats it.

And no I'm not a professional but I do all of my own mechanic work to my vehicles.
So I bought a bidirectional scan tool. Should have done it long ago and stopped all the guess work.

If you have an enhanced OBD tool you might be able to access mode$06 or "monitors" which would possibly give you live misfire data per cylinder

Quite often you can see which cylinder is misfiring before the threshold is met for cylinder identification

All this stuff is included on the modern android tablet bidirectional tools, which are getting ridiculously cheap for what they can do nowadays even with a wireless VCI !!!

 

[dscheidt]

What the cheap code readers do have going for them is they're fast. Getting codes read and cleared in under a minute has its uses, even if you don't have access to the underlying data stream. But yeah, a bidirectional tool is vastly more capable, and pretty much required for any real diagnostic work.

 

[M635_Guy]

What the cheap code readers do have going for them is they're fast. Getting codes read and cleared in under a minute has its uses, even if you don't have access to the underlying data stream. But yeah, a bidirectional tool is vastly more capable, and pretty much required for any real diagnostic work.

The ZR15s is birectional for engine and ABS I have the equivalent Innova reader, and while I find it slow and a bit clunky, it does a decent job...

 

[Old tool guy]

I think Eric at south main auto has a HF tablet and he says it’s excellent.

 

[Wrench97]

Straight readers are becoming less and less useful, you need the ability to see live data as well as freeze frame data and bidirectional tests on newer cars or it becomes a game of shooting parts at the code.
Then there is the whole security gateway thing to get into intertwined systems like transmissions codes that set check engine lights and fail emi tests.

 

[zimman]

I'm with signcrafter. Ok so my reader tells me I have a P0300. Cool.
It doesn't tell me which cylinder though.
I guess with a lot of extra work I could start with #1 and just work down the line. Maybe I'll get lucky by the time I make it #8.
Or get a scan tool and monitor exactly which cylinder(s) have a misfire.
I had this happen and on another board people were saying just replace all the plugs and wires, replace all the coils..
Well turned out it was none of that. Turned out it was a bad injector on #8. I would have wasted a lot of time and money with just a reader.

Also the reader I have doesn't do anything for resetting things like the AC system actuators or make those things operate for testing either.
Heck I don't think it will even read those codes for a lot of that stuff.
It will read emissions stuff and let you know which code has set your CEL. But thats it.

And no I'm not a professional but I do all of my own mechanic work to my vehicles.
So I bought a bidirectional scan tool. Should have done it long ago and stopped all the guess work.

P0300 is a random multiple misfire. It's random and not specific to any cylinder.
So it's still about fuel, air and spark with a little compression thrown in.
You have fuel, you have spark and maybe you have too much air. It's a vacuum leak I would think.
What other codes are there? A lean code?
Zim

Google is your friend on this one. Misfire codes go P0300-P0312 and that's a 12 cylinder. LOL
Z

 

[zendriver]

The ZR15s is birectional for engine and ABS I have the equivalent Innova reader, and while I find it slow and a bit clunky, it does a decent job...

I have that HF model. It's good for what it does, but I paid almost $300, which for just hundred or so more more could get much more functionality with other products.

Hell, probably go dirt cheap and still come out all right, now days.

Amazon.com

That's a real thing with HF stuff any more. Some of it is clearly overpriced compared to other Internet offerings.

 

[M635_Guy]

I have that HF model. It's good for what it does, but I paid almost $300, which for just hundred or so more more could get much more functionality with other products.

Hell, probably go dirt cheap and still come out all right, now days.

Amazon.com

That's a real thing with HF stuff any more. Some of it is clearly overpriced compared to other Internet offerings.

Are you using the companion SW for the tablet that interprets codes for fixes, etc.? I haven't had wonderful luck with it since there appears to be a limitation on how many codes it can handle - I actually spent the time to get Innova's tech support and mainly got an apology...

 

[zendriver]

Are you using the companion SW for the tablet that interprets codes for fixes, etc.? I haven't had wonderful luck with it since there appears to be a limitation on how many codes it can handle - I actually spent the time to get Innova's tech support and mainly got an apology...

No, I don't have the tablet. The one I listed was just an example, of what's out there for not a huge amount of money.

I purchased the Zurich ZR15s just for basic testing, think I'd find more of it's features useful. Really didn't.

Something like ABS bleeding, transmission codes. etc. might be useful down the road. The Zurich seem pretty limited, for what the unit costs. That was a couple of years ago. A lot of similar readers seem available pretty cheap everywhere.

Maybe that's why they are going away. Even the clearance prices are up there.

 

[mikey03]

HF got 10 days of tool deals the list leaked on Reddit and these zurich code readers are 30% off next week on that one day

 

[Codyboy]

What the cheap code readers do have going for them is they're fast. Getting codes read and cleared in under a minute has its uses, even if you don't have access to the underlying data stream. But yeah, a bidirectional tool is vastly more capable, and pretty much required for any real diagnostic work.

What use is clearing CEL fast?
Just because you don't "See the light on" means what?
Unless you're selling the vehicle to someone unsuspecting of an underlying issue.
Anyone that cares about a CEL (emissions inspection) don't care if the CEL is on or not.
If the computer says this and this and this is "not ready, test not ran" they'll send you away until those tests has been ran and ready passed by the cars computer.

 

[Codyboy]

P0300 is a random multiple misfire. It's random and not specific to any cylinder.
So it's still about fuel, air and spark with a little compression thrown in.
You have fuel, you have spark and maybe you have too much air. It's a vacuum leak I would think.
What other codes are there? A lean code?
Zim

Google is your friend on this one. Misfire codes go P0300-P0312 and that's a 12 cylinder. LOL
Z

Yeah uh, I get that and used it as an example because it is not a P0302 which plain reader would tell me.
I want live info not something that gives me a code and having me chasing some rabbit down a hole and that rabbit went out an unknown hole a 100ft away.
Read what I wrote. I know what P0300 is and figured out it was #8 and occasionally #7 . A plain reader will have you chasing your tail .

 

[Hakeem]

What use is clearing CEL fast?
Just because you don't "See the light on" means what?
Unless you're selling the vehicle to someone unsuspecting of an underlying issue.
Anyone that cares about a CEL (emissions inspection) don't care if the CEL is on or not.
If the computer says this and this and this is "not ready, test not ran" they'll send you away until those tests has been ran and ready passed by the cars computer.

If you lack the skills/money to repair your car but you need it to pass emissions anyways. Pull up to the testing site, clear the code, pass the emissions test, get on with your life (until next year)

 

[dscheidt]

If you lack the skills/money to repair your car but you need it to pass emissions anyways. Pull up to the testing site, clear the code, pass the emissions test, get on with your life (until next year)

You won't pass -- one of the things checked is whether all of the monitors have been run since codes were cleared (or the battery disconnected.) It's a pretty common problem, people fix the car to pass emissions, and then don't drive enough (or the right way) to run all the monitors.

Clearing codes quickly is useful when you have codes that got set because you disconnected something, which happens a lot. Clearing codes is also required for some diagnostics, because cars will shut down systems if they think they're malfunctioning. Hard to trace an intermittent misfire when the computer has shut the injector off.

 

[Hakeem]

You won't pass -- one of the things checked is whether all of the monitors have been run since codes were cleared (or the battery disconnected.) It's a pretty common problem, people fix the car to pass emissions, and then don't drive enough (or the right way) to run all the monitors.

Clearing codes quickly is useful when you have codes that got set because you disconnected something, which happens a lot. Clearing codes is also required for some diagnostics, because cars will shut down systems if they think they're malfunctioning. Hard to trace an intermittent misfire when the computer has shut the injector off.

Good info. Speaking personally I’ve used it successfully on two different cars … thinking back, one of the cars was cleared at home prior to the drive, which likely gave the monitors time to run, but the other one I literally cleared in the parking lot because the CEL kept triggering, and it still passed. Beginners luck, perhaps.

 

[zimman]

My first shop foreman at KIA in 2003 said, "You can't fix anything unless you know how it works"
The HF Icon Scanner is $1600. It has "Identifix" which includes 4+ Million "real fixes" from other "service techs"
If the scanner was that good.......?
Scanners can't measure fuel pressure if there's no fuel pressure sensor on the car.
Scanners can't detect a vacuum leak along the intake manifold gasket, bank 2. A $4.00 can of starter fluid, or a bottle of water can.
Scanners can't detect a carbon ring developed at the throttle body blade.
Scanners can't detect a hole or crack in the intake hose post MAF
Those answers are free on the internet. LOL
Good luck y'all.
Zim

 

[Codyboy]

If you lack the skills/money to repair your car but you need it to pass emissions anyways. Pull up to the testing site, clear the code, pass the emissions test, get on with your life (until next year)

Lol.
The inspection station will connect their computer to your car.
As said cel off doesn’t matter.
Their computer will tell them what they need to know.
If you passed an emissions test as you described then they didnt really do an emissions test.

 

[R07AG]

HF got 10 days of tool deals the list leaked on Reddit and these zurich code readers are 30% off next week on that one day

Tomorrow

 

[zendriver]

My first shop foreman at KIA in 2003 said, "You can't fix anything unless you know how it works"
The HF Icon Scanner is $1600. It has "Identifix" which includes 4+ Million "real fixes" from other "service techs"
If the scanner was that good.......?
Scanners can't measure fuel pressure if there's no fuel pressure sensor on the car.
Scanners can't detect a vacuum leak along the intake manifold gasket, bank 2. A $4.00 can of starter fluid, or a bottle of water can.
Scanners can't detect a carbon ring developed at the throttle body blade.
Scanners can't detect a hole or crack in the intake hose post MAF
Those answers are free on the internet. LOL
Good luck y'all.
Zim

No one should bother to try to repair an automobile, unless they are ASE certified mechanic?

If so, that doesn’t really seem reflective of real life. Personally, I’ve resolved many many issues by “looking it up.” Not always for sure.

That’s the good thing about the Internet. Whatever problem somebody has more than likely they aren’t the only one in world who would have experienced it.

A scanner is just a tool like anything else. Otherwise why did they even bother to develop ODB?

 

[Codyboy]

My first shop foreman at KIA in 2003 said, "You can't fix anything unless you know how it works"
The HF Icon Scanner is $1600. It has "Identifix" which includes 4+ Million "real fixes" from other "service techs"
If the scanner was that good.......?
Scanners can't measure fuel pressure if there's no fuel pressure sensor on the car.

Most cars with OBD has that built in.

Scanners can't detect a vacuum leak along the intake manifold gasket, bank 2.

But it allows you to read fuel trims which are affected by vacuum leaks.

A $4.00 can of starter fluid, or a bottle of water can.
Scanners can't detect a carbon ring developed at the throttle body blade.
Scanners can't detect a hole or crack in the intake hose post MAF
Those answers are free on the internet. LOL
Good luck y'all.
Zim

Scan tools can actually tell you a lot if you know what its telling you. I'm just learning how to use one.
But yeah you still have to apply common sense and knowledge/experience.
But it will help you narrow down an issue quicker. Pretty sure thats why all mechanics use them.

 

[signcrafter]

No one should bother to try to repair an automobile, unless they are ASE certified mechanic?

If so, that doesn’t really seem reflective of real life. Personally, I’ve resolved many many issues by “looking it up.” Not always for sure.

That’s the good thing about the Internet. Whatever problem somebody has more than likely they aren’t the only one in world who would have experienced it.

A scanner is just a tool like anything else. Otherwise why did they even bother to develop ODB?

Yes a code reader is just another tool, I agree with you there. It gives you a direction to go in, but that's it and nothing more. Yes you can throw parts at it based on some googling and sometimes get lucky and sometimes not.

How I took the OP is that HF is getting rid of the basic code readers. My first post I said I can understand because codes readers aren't that valuable of a tool and you can get a cheap bluetooth dongle and use your phone to do more then most basic code readers will do. Also I believe autel has scan tools with live data and bi directional controls for 3-400 dollars. So really there is no need for a 100-200 dollar code reader. Either use the cheap dongle and phone or for a few more dollars step up to a much more capable tool.

 

[zimman]

No one should bother to try to repair an automobile, unless they are ASE certified mechanic?

If so, that doesn’t really seem reflective of real life. Personally, I’ve resolved many many issues by “looking it up.” Not always for sure.

That’s the good thing about the Internet. Whatever problem somebody has more than likely they aren’t the only one in world who would have experienced it.

A scanner is just a tool like anything else. Otherwise why did they even bother to develop ODB?

No I sell scanners and code readers so folks can research and understand what their problem is and correct it if within their capabilities.
It's also a tool to prevent crooked shops from stealing their money, which happens all over the Country and I've worked all over the Country from Texas to the East Coast.
You're right, it's a great tool.
Zim

 

[mikey03]

Yes a code reader is just another tool, I agree with you there. It gives you a direction to go in, but that's it and nothing more. Yes you can throw parts at it based on some googling and sometimes get lucky and sometimes not.

honestly the way I been looking at it with family cars we plan to keep until the engine dies since we’re in the south with no rust issues. I will take a 10 or 15 year old family car, pull codes, google and see the code might be a sensor or a few other parts. If i can score a oem sensor for 50 bucks off rock auto and that wasn’t the problem I don’t feel bad because the sensor was prob going to die before the car does and we‘re keeping the car. But we’re not keeping the car for 100 years so we prob only need to replace the sensor one time during the life.

and if I can throw $300 of parts before I solve the problem it might be cheaper than $1000 at a pro who honestly might just fire the parts cannon themselves and say it needed all that. Except with me I know I’m using oem parts and not a duralast special that the “pro” might drop in there since they can get it fast and need to get our car out of the bay.

i do want to buy a scan tool but also I need to put in the time to learn how to use it and honestly the amount of unnecessary parts I threw in family cars that didn’t solve the problem was less than the cost of a scan tool would have been. Maybe I just get lucky alot

Most of the problems I dealt with had ways other than scan tools to narrow down the problem but honestly I know that won’t always be the case. I hope to buy one soon but since I’m not doing as much car work and they got subscriptions I was just going to wait until I really needed one to buy one. The good ones don’t seem to go on sale.

 

[signcrafter]

honestly the way I been looking at it with family cars we plan to keep until the engine dies since we’re in the south with no rust issues. I will take a 10 or 15 year old family car, pull codes, google and see the code might be a sensor or a few other parts. If i can score a oem sensor for 50 bucks off rock auto and that wasn’t the problem I don’t feel bad because the sensor was prob going to die before the car does and we‘re keeping the car. But we’re not keeping the car for 100 years so we prob only need to replace the sensor one time during the life.

and if I can throw $300 of parts before I solve the problem it might be cheaper than $1000 at a pro who honestly might just fire the parts cannon themselves and say it needed all that. Except with me I know I’m using oem parts and not a duralast special that the “pro” might drop in there since they can get it fast and need to get our car out of the bay.

i do want to buy a scan tool but also I need to put in the time to learn how to use it and honestly the amount of unnecessary parts I threw in family cars that didn’t solve the problem was less than the cost of a scan tool would have been. Maybe I just get lucky alot

Most of the problems I dealt with had ways other than scan tools to narrow down the problem but honestly I know that won’t always be the case. I hope to buy one soon but since I’m not doing as much car work and they got subscriptions I was just going to wait until I really needed one to buy one. The good ones don’t seem to go on sale.

The way I look at it is if a "pro" is going to charge 1000 dollars and the part is 300 then I have 700 to spend on tools that will be there for the next repair. But a "pro" shouldn't be throwing parts at a car. A scan tool is a big expense and my first one many years ago was around 800 and was a tough trigger to pull. But once you have one it's something you can't live without. Yes many things you can test without a scan tool but there have been so many times the scan tool is the only way to tell for sure or make it 100 times easier to narrow down the issue or part without wasting money on parts not needed. And parts aren't getting any cheaper, lots of sensors are getting in the 300 dollar range. Then you have things like ABS bleeding or parking brake service mode, throttle position relearns, and so much more that you can't do without them.

I got a 2018 silverado dropped off today with code P018b for fuel pressure issue. Owner already replaced the fuel pressure sensor. Looked at some service data and GM's test for this is to start the truck and depressurize the fuel pump and watch fuel pressure as the engine stalls. Can't do that without a scan tool. Guess you could throw a pump in but now you are into it for probably 500 bucks after sensor and pump. And if that isn't it now you either keep throwing parts at it or take it to someone.

 

[zendriver]

This thread shirt took an interesting turn

I started it because I thought it was interesting that they are discontinuing some relatively expensive (compared to the Internet) diagnostic scan tools with apparently no similar replacement products

I expected some of the usual tired HF bashing , but not towards people with the audacity to try to repair something themselves (which is probably 99% of their customers) in this case, using a diagnostic tool

Reminds me that I’m going to give or throw away my Sears “engine, analyzer” (nearly free from an auction), and RAC unit (that I’ve had for almost 50 years) since I’m now officially” pointless” for those of you don’t remember these are the cheap .point dwell amp volts meters that DY people purchased by the millions to work on their own cars

Were they as good as a sun machine in the hands of a capable mechanic? Of course not. Were they better than nothing?

Hell, yes, they were.

 

[Steel_Rain]

Who cares about code readers when you have Iron Man Icon gloves!

 

[Next]

I need a code reader that can force a regen on a 2018 Ram......any suggestions?

 

[Renegade1LI]

I picked up a 15s at 30% off, first use it cut my diagnostic time in half. Seems to do everything I need, abs, bidirectional & the price was right.

 

[bwringer]

All I want is for the manufacturers to release the actual information about the actual drive cycle that is actually needed to reset all the goddurn monitors.

For some reason, this info appears to be a state secret on par with Putin's breakfast next Thursday.

Dumb question: do any of these widgets have the ability to reset just a specific code? As stated above, quite often I create a bunch of codes while testing, so I'd love to be able to clear the false alarms to continue work on the real issues.


As to the actual topic, I do wonder if HF is planning a new strategy for their code reader lineup. There are way too many options, and it's hard to tell which one will do what you want. The tablet devices are getting excellent reviews, so maybe they're heading more in that direction, or coming up with something that connects to a phone app. I don't need to buy another goddurn device with a screen, so I'd love to have a widget that just plugs into OBD2 but has a lot more capability than the usual crop of ELM cheapies (which are still ridiculously useful for trivial money.)

Also, if they could build in TPMS abilities, that'd be greeeeeat. I don't want much.

 

[Wrench97]

I need a code reader that can force a regen on a 2018 Ram......any suggestions?

wiTECH a subscription to wiTECH, a J2534 passthrough device, a laptop, a yearly subscription to https://info.autoauth.com/contact/ for secure gateway access.
Code readers read codes they do not perform bidirectional tests/functions.

 

[Wrench97]

All I want is for the manufacturers to release the actual information about the actual drive cycle that is actually needed to reset all the goddurn monitors.

For some reason, this info appears to be a state secret on par with Putin's breakfast next Thursday.

Dumb question: do any of these widgets have the ability to reset just a specific code? As stated above, quite often I create a bunch of codes while testing, so I'd love to be able to clear the false alarms to continue work on the real issues.


As to the actual topic, I do wonder if HF is planning a new strategy for their code reader lineup. There are way too many options, and it's hard to tell which one will do what you want. The tablet devices are getting excellent reviews, so maybe they're heading more in that direction, or coming up with something that connects to a phone app. I don't need to buy another goddurn device with a screen, so I'd love to have a widget that just plugs into OBD2 but has a lot more capability than the usual crop of ELM cheapies (which are still ridiculously useful for trivial money.)

Also, if they could build in TPMS abilities, that'd be greeeeeat. I don't want much.

Resetting a specific code is not possible due to OBD2 standards of requiring a test of all components after a repair to ensure all are still functioning.

 

[rust in the eye]

All I want is for the manufacturers to release the actual information about the actual drive cycle that is actually needed to reset all the goddurn monitors.

For some reason, this info appears to be a state secret on par with Putin's breakfast next Thursday.

Buddy, you are preaching to the choir.
Here in Illinois the emissions "test" is no more than an interogation of the engine management computer. After of course expensive dedicated testing stations(now, I believe, leased out to a private concern) were built that actually measured emissions but I digress. On ocassion I've had to waste near a full tank of fuel to satisfy this mystical drive cycle. That worst case for a vehicle that mostly stands, consuming otherwise perhaps two tanks of fuel a year.
I had allowed the battery to run down, hence the monitors not ready.
Was my vehicle running clean? Yes but I effectively increased it's annual emissions by ~half to prove it. Makes perfect sense to me.

 

[bwringer]

wiTECH a subscription to wiTECH, a J2534 passthrough device, a laptop, a yearly subscription to https://info.autoauth.com/contact/ for secure gateway access.
Code readers read codes they do not perform bidirectional tests/functions.

You forgot three golden unicorn hairs, letters attesting to your moral purity from the last two Popes, a signed selfie with Billy the Kid, and a partridge in a pear tree.