Harbor freight router table??

[LOTW]

I think I need a router table.....I had plans of building one but that has not happened as of yet. It would see pretty light use, mainly for rounding corners. I was thinking about ordering the HF unit, has anyone got any experience with them? I'm hoping they are a diamond in the rough like a couple of there other tools.

 

[WWheeler]

For the simplest of tasks and rare use it can get what you need done. For the same regular price price or less Craftsman has one that's just slightly better in most respects. It's a tossup which would be cheaper after a HF 20% off coupon vs Sears rewards/surprise points etc.

I've had both at various times and after only a few uses they had their issues. Depth adjustment on both is a joke and will take a lot of setup time and sacrificial scrap to get right, though if you're just 'rounding corners' that shouldn't be a big deal though you could probably accomplish a job like that just as well by hand. The particleboard table on both didn't stay flat for very long. etc. In both cases I was able to accomplish what I initially bought them for done and a few other small projects before unloading them 'as-is' at garage sales for about 1/4 of what I paid for them.

Since then I've made my own table as a side to my table saw out of 1-1/2" mdf, laminate with oak edging & a Kreg insert plate and Triton TRA001 router and I love everything about it.

 

[Tonellin]

The reviews seem pretty terrible. I'd avoid

For 1/4 of that cost I built one out of MDF that works great

 

[WWheeler]

The reviews seem pretty terrible. I'd avoid

For 1/4 of that cost I built one out of MDF that works great

Well, you have to factor in the HF (& craftsman) router tables run ~$100 and they come with the router and pretty much everything you need and you can easily get them for less than that.

The routers are not great, that's for sure, but for the price you're not really going to get a router and make the table and the legs and the split fence and fashion a bit guard w/ attachment for some dust extraction, which is absolutely necessary or the dust will kill your router in no time.

Like I said, depending on what you need to use it for, they can serve a purpose worth the cost. IIRC I actually got the Craftsman one for $60 or thereabouts with rewards points and I mainly used it just to help make my current router table. It was one of those, I needed one to make a much better one, kind of things.

 

[Tonellin]

Well, you have to factor in the HF (& craftsman) router tables run ~$100 and they come with the router and pretty much everything you need and you can easily get them for less than that.

The routers are not great, that's for sure, but for the price you're not really going to get a router and make the table and the legs and the split fence and fashion a bit guard w/ attachment for some dust extraction, which is absolutely necessary or the dust will kill your router in no time.

Like I said, depending on what you need to use it for, they can serve a purpose worth the cost. IIRC I actually got the Craftsman one for $60 or thereabouts with rewards points and I mainly used it just to help make my current router table. It was one of those, I needed one to make one, kind of things.

ahh that makes more sense. Didn't realize they were a bundled package

 

[rsanter]

Look on CL, sometimes you can buy the routers table, bits and a bunch of stuff a guy is selling. Router tables are not that valuable so they often don't sell for that much used.

On the other hand, before I had a router table....and then upgraded to a shaper.
I took a piece of plywood and mounted the router to it. Then held it upside down with a couple saw horses I had. Worked perfectly while I had it that way and that was even when I was making a cabinet.
Router tables don't have to be fancy to be functional.
Do,you have a table saw? One of the best router table options is one mounted in an extension of a table saw

Bob

 

[Empty Pockets]

I ran a formica shop, years ago. We simply mounted a Porter Cable model 100 to the underside of a piece of flake board. We laminated the top with a piece of scrap formica. We lowered the bit until it went through. That setup worked for years

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[LOTW]

Thanks for the input....unfortunate I'm no closer to a decision now than I was ! But I'm in no rush, maybe I'll luck into one in the meantime!

 

[guy48065]

I see some smoking good deals on Craigslist from time to time so if you're patient and have a pretty good idea what you need, it's a good option.

Personally I like the Incra high pressure laminate top with 3/8" aluminum plate and magnetic filler discs. It's often $179 which is a good price for a top-notch table top & plate.

 

[tarbellb]

My friend just recently bought this Craftsman table/router combo.

Holy hell, its terrible from top to bottom. Everything about it is bad.

Router height is incredibly hard to adjust, the screw to adjust height is already slipping. The fence is made from flexible plastic, finger boards are even worse.

Seriously, its amazing how bad it is.

 

[tarbellb]

Look on CL, sometimes you can buy the routers table, bits and a bunch of stuff a guy is selling. Router tables are not that valuable so they often don't sell for that much used.

On the other hand, before I had a router table....and then upgraded to a shaper.
I took a piece of plywood and mounted the router to it. Then held it upside down with a couple saw horses I had. Worked perfectly while I had it that way and that was even when I was making a cabinet.
Router tables don't have to be fancy to be functional.
Do,you have a table saw? One of the best router table options is one mounted in an extension of a table saw

Bob

This^^^^

Go buy some 3/4 laminate ply, some t-slot track, and a nice straight edge. Run two t-slots parrallel to each other, coorsponding hardware into the straightedge, and bam. Awesome table.

Buy a cheap router (heck even a craftsman, I like Hitachi) w/ a screw action adjustable base, mount to the underside of table, and plunge a larger bit through the table.

Later you can order a zero clearance insert and router that pocket into your table.

 

[BQuicksilver]

That table is the single worst item I've ever purchased from HF. I mad the mistake of starting it with a 1.25" wide bit and the collet lost it as it flew by my face. The one I had had a weak collett and non-adjustable speed, so anything wide at all was a 20,000rpm projectile. AVOID.

 

[rsanter]

Thanks for the input....unfortunate I'm no closer to a decision now than I was ! But I'm in no rush, maybe I'll luck into one in the meantime!

If you are in no rush then how about looking for a small benchtop shaper. Far better than any router upside down will be.
Delta used to make one for the homeowner that is a very decent tool. They come up once in a while and take the same space as a router table

Bob

 

[LOTW]

Ok, thanks guys! I guess that's enough bad reviews to keep me away.
I think I will make something simple for now.
I do have a router but I would like to move up to a half inch one. I'll check out the hitachi

What exactly is the difference between a shaped and a router?

 

[rsanter]

A shaper is what a router table tries to replicate.
The shaper has its own motor and is a single tool.
The router table mounts a router upside down to act like a shaper. Some routers depth adjustment don't work for damn upside down as they were never intended to work that way.

Craftsman also made a very decent bench top shaper back in the day. I have two of the delta units and I rairly ever use a router anymore and immediately sold my router table

Bob

 

[guy48065]

Shapers are rarely found in amateur shops because of the high cost and limited selection of cutters.

 

[southalabama]

Delta router/shaper table. Got about 20 years ago. Takes router bits. Don't have to worry about bolting the router on a table. Works great and solid.

 

[LOTW]

I'm thinking a simple MDF top mounted to a workmate. Here's a question, are most router bases the same bolt pattern? I'm a machinist and I'm thinking I could make an aluminum insert for the table top.

 

[tarbellb]

You are on the right path, but its even simpler then machining a base plate. You can attach the router base directly to the table when you take off the optional plastic base.

Then simply drill/cut a hole to your desired diameter, then you can make your own custom inserts.

But to answer your question- No. They will vary. Check Rockler, they have a lot of good (expensive) info for router types.

 

[hangfirew8]

I'm happy with my Bosch RA1171 Router Table and an old US-made Porter-Cable router.

Ease of adjustment depends heavily on the brand and model of router you put in the cabinet; it'll never be as easy to adjust as a proper shaper, but versatility and value are never in question. Accuracy is only limited by the user.

 

[kctyphoon]

If you're rounding edges, how about buying a decent hand held router and just clamping the wood down to a work table instead? If you don't have a work table, a folding portable one like the old black and decker workmate is an option.

Most round over router bits are self guided with bearings anyway, so a router table with a fence really isn't that necessary. the small tables are kind limiting too when it comes to the lenght of the boards you can practically use without setting up a roller stand to help support them.

If you still want one, I think I have a cheap one that was never taken out of the box that I got from somewhere. I can post up a picture if you're interested. It would be cheap..

 

[Empty Pockets]

I like KC's idea for rounding edges, I have an older (Back when they made this one) Porter Cable 100, and a 9100. I use both interchangeably with round over bits with bearing guides. The 100 and 9100 are no longer made, but you may be able to find a good working unit on eBay or CL

 

[LOTW]

I'm thinking I should build....but not just a router table. I'm thinking a large wood table on casters with the router in one end. Multi use. Would be great for assembly.
What would be the preferred table top? I'm thinking 3/4 ac possibly with laminate on it.

 

[WWheeler]

I went with 1-1/2" MDF (sandwiched two 3/4 boards) and a scratch-resistant laminate w/ oak edging and it's mounted as a side table to my table saw. MDF can't be beat for flatness & stability. 1-1/2" might be a bit overkill, but 3/4" didn't seem enough, especially if/when you are putting 1/2" deep dadoes in for t-slots & miter track. None of the better commercial router tables I looked at for inspiration had tops that thin.

You really do not want any warp, sag or flex on a router table. That's where a lot of the cheap tables ****. Add a little humidity and the weight of a router hanging from them, and they don't stay flat for very long.

 

[tarbellb]

I would probably go 5' sheet of Baltic Birch, 3/4". Then laminate the top with something.
Brace if necessary.

If not Baltic Birch, then ACX. I would avoid MDF, prone to flex and moisture damage.

Buy some aluminum T-slot off Ebay, same with fixtures. Make your own fence with some left over solid hardwood or even ACX.

.... nobody ever asked if you have a table saw right? Do you?

 

[guy48065]

... and the weight of a router hanging from them, and they don't stay flat for very long.

You don't want a 3/4" top for this very reason.

And do use a router plate. Bolting the router under a thick top--even 3/4"--takes too much of the depth adjustment away and you'll sometimes be tempted to extend the bit in the collet to get a full-depth cut. Besides being more dangerous, it also causes chatter that leaves a rough edge.