Harbor Freight Scan Tools

[Case IH]

Has anyone tried any if the scan tools from HF? How do they work? Are they user friendly are they even worth it?



http://www.harborfreight.com/can-obd-ii-code-reader-eobd-scanner-98614.html

 

[mixxmstrmike]

I have that exact model.

It does a decent job in reading check engine lights. I've loaned it to friends and they used it without issue.

20% off makes it even better!

-Mike

 

[Case IH]

I have that exact model.

It does a decent job in reading check engine lights. I've loaned it to friends and they used it without issue.

20% off makes it even better!

-Mike

That is what I would use it for....dose it come with instructions on wher to plug in and how to use? It must rite

 

[mixxmstrmike]

That is what I would use it for....dose it come with instructions on wher to plug in and how to use? It must rite

Comes with written instructions, I "think" a CD, cables and a zippered case. It gets power from the OBDII socket/plug. Just plug it in, turn the key to power accessories and it'll start performing basic queries to the vehicle.

From there, you can read basic "pending" codes, error codes that actually invoked the check engine light, erase codes, etc.

It literally has paid for itself in 2 uses... diagnosing bad oxygen sensors on my vehicles.

-Mike

 

[Case IH]

Cool and only about $2000 cheaper than snap on

 

[OSAO]

I had the predicessor to that one, the one with the yellow case. The first one I had featured a display that was upside down and backwards. I had to use the rearview mirror of the car to read the display.

Obviously, I exchanged it, and the replacement works fine.

 

[oldtools]

Check the review on HF site. Everybody highly recommend it.

 

[fflintstone]

I have the much cheaper version, it works fine for what I need it for, and is not so expensive you don’t mind loaning it.

 

[Danglerb]

$39 when on sale from HF works fine for me. You don't step up until the price gets MUCH higher or you go to an adapter that runs software on a PC or laptop.

 

[diesel research]

I'm sure others will chime but, but I have to reitterate on studying up sensor values, DMM testing procedures, and "outside of the box" logic when using these.

Can literally cost thousands of dollars if placed in the wrong hands.

I think back to the old redbrick mt2500 snap on tool. Codes out the wazoo for every sensor on the vehicle practically. After a friend had replaced every sensor, the codes persisted. He then replaced pcm. You can see how quickly he racked up $600 in parts. After the new pcm failed to solve the problem, he began to unhook it and notice a broken/corroded main power wire for the pcm....

On the other hand they are amazingly handy sometimes. Had I reached for one right away I would have noticed the ford PATS antitheft system was being triggered by the "spare" (unprogrammed) key in the ignition switch. Having a neon with no spark or fuel, and knowing how the ASD relay system works, allowed me to watch for cranking rpms. There wasn't any, which lead me directly to checking crank sensor instead of trying to fix 2 "separate" problems. Just a few examples.

Really have to know what kind of things could trigger out of range readings. Is that MAP REALLY bad, or does the hose have a hole/cut/kink/clog? Are MAF counts wrong due to a torn intake air hose? Is the right bank actually lean or is it sucking air from a exhaust manifold leak? Is the -40* ect reading due to a bad sensor or is it just unplugged?

 

[Case IH]

Do the HF ones just read out the code or dose it tell you the actual problem? Can you buy cords and programs to hook it up to a Computer?

 

[Stick]

Do the HF ones just read out the code or dose it tell you the actual problem? Can you buy cords and programs to hook it up to a Computer?

No scan tool or code reader will tell you the "actual problem", they just tell you what the computer thinks the problem is. Codes are a good starting point to verify the problem, but livedata is the better way to verify operation. That's one of the reasons (among many others) why something like a Snap-on Solus or Modis run $2-5k+ and a "code reader" is $49.

The only fairly reliable code where you might be able to get away with just throwing parts is a P0420/P0430 Catalyst low efficiency code, but even then you should probably check O2 sensor operation before you hang a $400 Cat on the vehicle.

 

[diesel research]

Do the HF ones just read out the code or dose it tell you the actual problem?

You can spend $20,000 on an oem testing device and still be no where near "the actual problem"

It does give you some data. There is NO replacement for knowledge.

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/98000-98999/98614.pdf

It's not the tool, but the user. The scan tool cannot blow through a MAP sample hose, conduct a leak down test, a pre/post cat back pressure test, measure fuel quality, check for carbon build up, or many other problems that may cause an error code.

For cheap lap top use you could:
http://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/smart-phone/obdlink-bluetooth.html

(warning, not everything this reviewer states is 100% correct, such as the recommendation for a knockoff ebay device) Just watch to see what a smart phone can do with "torque" on android and a real scantool.net/palmer performance device.

 

[NJHandyGuy]

i have this one


always been great very accurate no complains love it

Here comes the hate mail

 

[KU_MechE]

Appears to be one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LHW9YG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LHXTO0/?tag=atomicindus08-20


I have this one and love it.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KID31K/?tag=atomicindus08-20