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harbor freight scissor lift

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viseth

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I'm trying to find more info for wiring, but the garage is not attached and I feel the fuse box is in the basement of the two-flat building
 

Brandon_K

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According to the manual, http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/46000-46999/46604.pdf it's a straight 240v motor only. I would be *highly* surprised to ever see a dual voltage motor on anything from HF, they're more expensive afterall.

Running a 240v line isn't difficult. For air compressors, motors like the one on that mid rise, lathes, etc wiring a 240v outlet is absolutely no different than running a 120v line, other than the outlets and breakers used. Motors and the like use hot, hot and ground, where 120v uses hot, neutral and ground. Instead of connecting to the neutral bus with the white wire on the romex, you'll tape it red (on both ends, panel side and outlet side) and connect both the red and black to the 2 pole breaker, the bare ground will still go to the ground bus bar.

That thing only draws 4amps a leg, so even 14/2 romex is plenty sufficient. Throw a 2 pole 15A breaker in the panel (alternately if you want to future proof a tiny bit for a few bucks more, a 20A breaker on 12/2), run the romex to where it needs to be and wire in a 6-15 or 6-20 receptacle.

Always easier said than done though, pulling wire can be a pain depending on the circumstances. To stay with code, you may have to bury UF wire, run conduit, use BX cable inside or the like ;)
 
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GeorgiaHybrid

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It states pretty plainly in the ad that it is 240 volt. It will probably be a lot cheaper to run a new 240 line than to buy a new motor, controls, etc.
 
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viseth

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Reading more ways to do the 240 line, No prior experience in electrical wiring
 

Brandon_K

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Electrical is pretty easy, especially basic ressi stuff like this. Any questions or clairifcations, give us a yell. I'm quite well versed as are a few others on this board.
 

Brandon_K

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I didn't know 240 didn't use the neutral... I would have thought you'd run 14/3 wire for 240 applications.

It depends on the usage. Nearly all 240v lighting, motors, welders, big window A/C's, etc only require hot + hot to run. Obviously we add a third conductor as an equipment safety ground. This is refered to as 2 pole 3-wire grounding 240 (L1, L2, G)

Very few things need 4-wire 240 (aka 3 pole 4 wire grounding) (L1, L2, N, G). Most notable are dryers and ovens/ranges. In old construction (I believe 1996 this was revised in the NEC) 3 pole 3 wire (NON GROUNDING) dryer outlets (NEMA 10-30R) were no longer allowed, same went for 3 pole 3 wire range outlets (NEMA 10-50R). Dryers use 240v for the heating elements, but 120v for the motor, lighting, timer circuit, etc. Stoves are the same way, 240v for heating elements, 120v for everything else. The real concern is that there is no equipment grounding conductor and your dryer chassis is bonded to neutral. Should the neutral open, you now have 120v of potential on the chassis. Basically, look at your entire dryer as one really big wire that would love to light your *** up, as you are standing on ground and have now become the new current path. To fix the safey issue, 3 pole 4 wire grounding outlets were introduced for ranges and dryers. The chassis is no longer bonded to the neutral, so should the neutral open or a short occur, the chassis no longer has potential.

So, cliff notes;

3 pole 3 wire (L1, L2, N), 120/240v capable, no ground, was commonly used for dryers and ranges

3 pole 3 wire grounding (L1, L2, G) 240v grounded, not capable of 120v, used for lighting, motors, welders, etc as no return current is required. 30A and 50A outlets (NEMA outlets 6-30 and 6-50 respectively)

3 pole 4 wire grounding (L1, L2, N, G) 120/240v grounded, now commonly used for dryers, ovens, etc. I personally install these over 3p/3w grounding for the simple fact that it's a "do all" outlet. If I need 120/240, great, I wire the device with 4 wires. If I need 240v only, also great, only 3 wires are used. This is helpful for example for a volunteer job that I do in which one of our PA systems needs a 50A 4 wire connection, where the welder only needs 3 wire. Again, it's only needed where there are 120v devices that may be present in the equipment that require a return path. These are also commonly used in bigger RV's as again, there are both 120v and 240v devices present in the RV.
 
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viseth

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Holy **** you are amazing, I just got off the phone with harbor freight and told them I wanted the bend pak lift and they would even honor the 20% coupon but it was back ordered and so was the lift for 1000, I feel this may be a sign to get my *** in gear and save a 1000 dollars and work this damn 120/240v out. :) Thank you so much rereading your post now
 
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