Harbor Freight / Steevo bench help request

[964haus]

So I’ve been [over]thinking about my workbench in my small 10x18 garage. Help requested from the GJ experts. Here’s a rough idea of what I’ve been working towards thus far:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=886361&d=1555960755

I’m likely going with the Harbor Freight 26”(x3) or 44”(x2) tool cabinets beneath the bench – think Steevo. However as I don’t have the welding equipment or any welding experience whatsoever, I was looking to make it out of lumber. I'm trying to keep the design trim (like metal tubing) - while designing it on Sketchup, I started thinking about just making a ‘ladder’ base for the cabinets to sit on, then set the bench top directly on the toolboxes.

So my questions:
1) Would the boxes be hefty enough to support the top and some medium pounding/work?
2) Would the top be sturdy if I lay a ‘base’ plywood to make the top even, then lay a stainless or wood counter on top?
3) Do I need to have a structure/frame around the boxes to support the benchtop?
4) Any pics of the Steevo box made out of lumber that I can refer to?

Thanks all,
Matthew

 

[ScottsGT]

Problem with lumber is that you must use a bottom cross and side beams of some sort to take the force of pounding on something, or very heavy stuff doesn't put all the weight on the box.
That being said, it is going to wind up a very tall work surface. Unless you are 6'8" or taller, be careful how much height you add to this build.
To me, this sounds like a great opportunity to invest in a MIG welder. Keep it small though, you are working out of a very small garage and tools will rob real estate quickly.

EDIT: I used I think 1/2" plywood between my butcher block top and the box.

EDIT X2: Thinking about this more, you could use 4X4 uprights in the corners, 2X4 connecting front to back on sides, and then for cross bracing on the bottom, use 2X2 angle iron and cut the ends and drill a hole where you could use lag bolts to hold the legs in place. I'd make the outer "tabs" on the cross brace long enough to go the entire length and have at least 2 lag bolts per end. Or you could go crazy and bend a 90 (after cutting off the bottom part of the angle) and have it wrap around the 4X4 leg for extra bracing.

 

[matt_i]

I would just add that putting vertical wood posts (or blocks) directly under the 4 box corners to rest on the concrete is going to make it as solid as steel from a hammer's point of view.

Trying to connect a long horizontal beam to outboard posts like one would do with a steel tube frame is ultimately not strong nor very rigid.

 

[mike93lx]

I built a workbench that holds my 44" HF cabinet. Problem is height. If you use a 2x4 across the bottom and on the top, you end up with a really high bench that works OK for me at 6'5" but would be way too tall for most.

I used 4x4's at the corners for mine.

Metal saves a lot of space

 

[nolimits76]

Have you considered unistrut as an alternative material? Would avoid welding, but give you metal for strength/size.

Strongly suggest you build a mockup of any wood frame you propose to get an idea of final height. As pointed out by others, it can be awkward to work from too tall of a work bench.

 

[964haus]

Thanks everyone for the input - ya, the height is what drove me to consider other options.

What's the strength of the boxes without a frame? Can 2, 44" boxes be connected to they are strong and can hold a benchtop securely?

Lastly, I spent a couple of hours searching unistrut. Looks like it could be a viable option too which is great. I could structure it just like Steevo's and keep the scale right...

Thanks as always guys,
M.

 

[kasander]

I am also a non-welder so I designed an aluminum extrusion frame and ordered all the pieces pre-cut and machined for fasteners. The horizontal members are 1.5" tall so it doesn't add as much height as a 2x4 standing up.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8304207

 

[Black300zx]

I built my bench with 2x4 lumber around a HF 44" box. Top is doubled-up 3/4" Oak plywood. As mentioned above, there is a slight gap between my box and the worksurface so that all of the weight/pounding is transferred to the legs as opposed to the box. I have heavy-duty leveling feet under each of the four corners of the box.

Here's some photos of the build. Let me know if you have any questions. I'm 5'10 and find the work height comfortable. I can measure the height if you'd like.

The frame which the box sits on, leveling feet installed (I had to shorten the threads by about an inch). Liquid nails and Kreg screws used for most of the joints

Framework coming together

I notched the 2x4s slightly to sit closer to the box top, lowering the work height by about 3/4"

Top and backsplash were made out of a single 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4 ply. Two 22" wide pieces for the top and a 4" wide piece for the backsplash. I routed a "moat" into the edge to catch screws, ball bearings, fluids, etc

I had about 3/4 gallon of Legacy Industries Xtreme Set 100 Polyurea crack filler leftover from prepping my garage floor for coating, so I slapped a few coats of it onto the top for protection from chemicals. One coat is shown here. Unfortunately it turned a bit milky white after 3 coats.

I build a screw-on attachment out of scraps to allow me to pick up and move the heavy end easily.

At home

 

[mike93lx]

Not having a toe kick would make that hard for me to use. That's my biggest complaint about my setup. It's getting torn apart and redone sometime soon

 

[cderalow]

I built my bench with 2x4 lumber around a HF 44" box. Top is doubled-up 3/4" Oak plywood. As mentioned above, there is a slight gap between my box and the worksurface so that all of the weight/pounding is transferred to the legs as opposed to the box. I have heavy-duty leveling feet under each of the four corners of the box.

Here's some photos of the build. Let me know if you have any questions. I'm 5'10 and find the work height comfortable. I can measure the height if you'd like.

The frame which the box sits on, leveling feet installed (I had to shorten the threads by about an inch). Liquid nails and Kreg screws used for most of the joints

puts working height around 38"?
Framework coming together

I notched the 2x4s slightly to sit closer to the box top, lowering the work height by about 3/4"

Top and backsplash were made out of a single 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4 ply. Two 22" wide pieces for the top and a 4" wide piece for the backsplash. I routed a "moat" into the edge to catch screws, ball bearings, fluids, etc

I had about 3/4 gallon of Legacy Industries Xtreme Set 100 Polyurea crack filler leftover from prepping my garage floor for coating, so I slapped a few coats of it onto the top for protection from chemicals. One coat is shown here. Unfortunately it turned a bit milky white after 3 coats.

I build a screw-on attachment out of scraps to allow me to pick up and move the heavy end easily.

At home

That puts your working height around 38"?

 

[Black300zx]

That puts your working height around 38"?

Doesn't seem that high. I'll measure when I get home. From memory I think it's more like 34ish.

Edit - yea, you're about spot on. Frankly I find it a fairly comfortable standing height. It's a bit below elbow level which puts my hands at a fairly natural location. I spent a few hours in front of it a couple weekends ago dissecting a transmission and the height felt fine. If it was lower i think I'd find myself hunching over a bit while working.

For sitting it's definitely on the high side and I'll need a fairly high stool, but I rarely sit.

 

[couch67]

964,

I had put my main lowers together as you describe. I bought a few of the husky tool boxes on sale last spring. I wanted to also build some wood cabs for larger items, and integrated a bar fridge as well.

The tool boxes sit on a 2x4 lower frame (3 1/2" high), and the maple top is 1 3/4" thick, which was screwed to the boxes from the bottom side.

Overall height is 36 1/2", had to measure it just now to be sure. It is solid as hell, and will re-post if I ever run into problems.

 

[JamesW84]

They look great, but from a functional point of view wouldn't it be better to make the bench where the box rolls under it, but can still be removed and rolled around to another area if needed?

 

[Black300zx]

They look great, but from a functional point of view wouldn't it be better to make the bench where the box rolls under it, but can still be removed and rolled around to another area if needed?

I'd say it completely depends on the user's needs. The casters are quite large on the HF 44 and keeping them installed would have raised the bench another 2-3 inches. My box is also about the size of the walkway around our cars, so I wouldn't have room to move it around even if I wanted to. For me, I'd rather have the box essentially hard mounted so that it doesn't wobble or wiggle when I open/close the heavier drawers.

I'm sure others have different use cases

 

[mike93lx]

They look great, but from a functional point of view wouldn't it be better to make the bench where the box rolls under it, but can still be removed and rolled around to another area if needed?

I have no other area that I would need to roll mine in a 26x24 garage. Saving the height and making the cabinet solid were more important for me

 

[Fatboy148]

Look here and follow the pictures that might apply:


https://www.google.com/search?q=wood+steevo+tool+box+site:www.garagejournal.com&sa=X&rlz=1C1AVNC_enUS569US569&biw=1850&bih=1009&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=66eokFuRITA4lM%253A%252CX14Qr7_5_JYNnM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQcBPnWJ2p51GWHfWSaqjLhopggYQ&ved=2ahUKEwiV3prssJfnAhWHxFkKHSCgBHIQ9QEwAXoECAoQBw#imgrc=66eokFuRITA4lM:

 

[KEH]

It should be possible for a non welder to make a bench frame out of angle iron bolted together. Cut out pieces or order them pre cut and drill holes carefully. I think 5/16 hard steel bolts would be adequate. A few diagonal cross braces at the back and sides would be needed. Front bottom braces could be unbolted to allow for rolling the cabinet in and out if needed.

KEH

 

[cderalow]

Doesn't seem that high. I'll measure when I get home. From memory I think it's more like 34ish.

Edit - yea, you're about spot on. Frankly I find it a fairly comfortable standing height. It's a bit below elbow level which puts my hands at a fairly natural location. I spent a few hours in front of it a couple weekends ago dissecting a transmission and the height felt fine. If it was lower i think I'd find myself hunching over a bit while working.

For sitting it's definitely on the high side and I'll need a fairly high stool, but I rarely sit.

38-40 is what I would call typical standing height for a workbench or countertop.

the math is pretty simple though.

2x4 on short side x 2 = 3", add 3/4" for the leveling feet, then 1-1/2" for the top and 34 for the box = 38 to 38-1/2?

 

[RichardP]

I built my bench using wood. I built the frame as shown. I cut 3/4" plywood to fit the top of the tool boxes so they would be flush with the top of the frame. I added another sheet of plywood over that. Then I topped it off with oak flooring. It's plenty strong and a good work height for me. For me, if I'm doing heavy pounding it would be at my stainless topped bench where my vise is.

Richard P.

 

[cderalow]

I built my bench using wood. I built the frame as shown. I cut 3/4" plywood to fit the top of the tool boxes so they would be flush with the top of the frame. I added another sheet of plywood over that. Then I topped it off with oak flooring. It's plenty strong and a good work height for me. For me, if I'm doing heavy pounding it would be at my stainless topped bench where my vise is.

Richard P.

Are you using a series 2 side cabinet with series 1 box?

trying to otherwise figure out the staggered framing setup.

 

[RichardP]

Are you using a series 2 side cabinet with series 1 box?

trying to otherwise figure out the staggered framing setup.

Yep. I bought two main boxes and one side box initially. By the time I figured out I had room for another side, they had changed things...

Richard P.

 

[schnutzy]

I built my bench with 2x4 lumber around a HF 44" box. Top is doubled-up 3/4" Oak plywood. As mentioned above, there is a slight gap between my box and the worksurface so that all of the weight/pounding is transferred to the legs as opposed to the box. I have heavy-duty leveling feet under each of the four corners of the box.



Here's some photos of the build. Let me know if you have any questions. I'm 5'10 and find the work height comfortable. I can measure the height if you'd like.



The frame which the box sits on, leveling feet installed (I had to shorten the threads by about an inch). Liquid nails and Kreg screws used for most of the joints

Framework coming together

I notched the 2x4s slightly to sit closer to the box top, lowering the work height by about 3/4"

Top and backsplash were made out of a single 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4 ply. Two 22" wide pieces for the top and a 4" wide piece for the backsplash. I routed a "moat" into the edge to catch screws, ball bearings, fluids, etc

I had about 3/4 gallon of Legacy Industries Xtreme Set 100 Polyurea crack filler leftover from prepping my garage floor for coating, so I slapped a few coats of it onto the top for protection from chemicals. One coat is shown here. Unfortunately it turned a bit milky white after 3 coats.

I build a screw-on attachment out of scraps to allow me to pick up and move the heavy end easily.

At home

What leveling feet did you use?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Black300zx]

What leveling feet did you use?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075C3Q4B1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They have a nice rubber pad on the bottom and seem stout. I cut about an inch of thread off the end to prevent it from sticking up past the top of the 2x4.
If I did it again, I'd replace the t-nuts with a threaded wood insert like This (I hate t-nuts)

 

[mike93lx]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075C3Q4B1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They have a nice rubber pad on the bottom and seem stout. I cut about an inch of thread off the end to prevent it from sticking up past the top of the 2x4.
If I did it again, I'd replace the t-nuts with a threaded wood insert like This (I hate t-nuts)

I just drill an undersized hole and hammer in coupling nuts. Lots of support, especially in soft wood

 

[jfish]

This evening I'll post pics of mine when I get home. I don't know what kind of "pounding" you're doing on this bench but I have no framework under mine and it hasn't collapsed.

6 or so years of use. Two HF44s with two side boxes. All bolted together. Sidebox/44/sidebox/44.

I cut .75 ply to fit the recessed area on top of the box. On top of that I found a kitchen Island counter top. Which is 2x layers of .75 MDF. I cut the top to 32" deep I believe. I lagged a 2x4 along the wall behind the boxes at the height of the bottom of the top. I removed the feet from the boxes and installed steel plates and adjustable feet.

The top is then lagged diagonally through the top into the 2x4 ledger. My vise is bolted through all of this, the top, the middle layer, the box top with 3/4" bolts.

 

[964haus]

I built my bench with 2x4 lumber around a HF 44" box. Top is doubled-up 3/4" Oak plywood. As mentioned above, there is a slight gap between my box and the worksurface so that all of the weight/pounding is transferred to the legs as opposed to the box. I have heavy-duty leveling feet under each of the four corners of the box.

Here's some photos of the build. Let me know if you have any questions. I'm 5'10 and find the work height comfortable. I can measure the height if you'd like.

Thanks Black300zx - so helpful that you have pics of the workbench in progress. I like how it came together, so much so that I've modified the planning on mine somewhat to reflect what you did. Thanks!

Not having a toe kick would make that hard for me to use. That's my biggest complaint about my setup. It's getting torn apart and redone sometime soon

Yes, I had a previous bench that didn't have a toe kick so I'm making sure that the base is inset for my big toes....great advice.

I built my bench using wood. I built the frame as shown. I cut 3/4" plywood to fit the top of the tool boxes so they would be flush with the top of the frame. I added another sheet of plywood over that. Then I topped it off with oak flooring. It's plenty strong and a good work height for me. For me, if I'm doing heavy pounding it would be at my stainless topped bench where my vise is.

Richard P.

Awesome. I had a similar idea for laying another 'fill' piece of plywood on the top, then secure my final worktop on that.

This evening I'll post pics of mine when I get home. I don't know what kind of "pounding" you're doing on this bench but I have no framework under mine and it hasn't collapsed.

6 or so years of use. Two HF44s with two side boxes. All bolted together. Sidebox/44/sidebox/44.

I cut .75 ply to fit the recessed area on top of the box. On top of that I found a kitchen Island counter top. Which is 2x layers of .75 MDF. I cut the top to 32" deep I believe. I lagged a 2x4 along the wall behind the boxes at the height of the bottom of the top. I removed the feet from the boxes and installed steel plates and adjustable feet.

The top is then lagged diagonally through the top into the 2x4 ledger. My vise is bolted through all of this, the top, the middle layer, the box top with 3/4" bolts.

More pics would be fantastic, jfish. It's not going to get a tonne of pounding, but I'd like to attach my vise to the bench so just in case I need to 'help' anything along, i'd like the bench to be secure enough. Would love to see how you bolted them together - did you just attach through the middle of the box or something on the outside to hold it all together?

Just great help everyone!!

M.

 

[964haus]

And here's my latest idea...if you notice anything weird, let me know.

I should have noted 2 things:
1) my floor is slightly sloped so I was thinking of incorporating the slope by shaving/shaping the bottom ladder
2) I have a short stem wall that I'll have to incorporate.

Cheers,
M.

 

[JamesW84]

I haven't built one and haven't read the entire thread, but I would think you should flip your top and bottom around. In other words, the bottom doesn't need the 2x4 (or 2x6) ran vertically, but the top would be more solid that way. If you put the bottom flat and run the top vertically, the height is still the same, but the top is much stronger. The boxes are supported by the floor. The only thing is that your toe kick area wouldn't be as tall.

 

[Black300zx]

I just drill an undersized hole and hammer in coupling nuts. Lots of support, especially in soft wood

Hmm, good idea. Also save a run to the hardware store for inserts

Thanks Black300zx - so helpful that you have pics of the workbench in progress. I like how it came together, so much so that I've modified the planning on mine somewhat to reflect what you did. Thanks!

Glad it helped

 

[ScottsGT]

And here's my latest idea...if you notice anything weird, let me know.

I should have noted 2 things:
1) my floor is slightly sloped so I was thinking of incorporating the slope by shaving/shaping the bottom ladder
2) I have a short stem wall that I'll have to incorporate.

Cheers,
M.

That's going to be tall. I'd remove all the wood on the bottom and use 2X2 steel with no cross bracing. Cross bracing is completely un-necessary. Like I said earlier, lag bolt the bottom 2X2 angle iron into the legs.
Now, if it is going to be up against the wall, you might raise it up a little for toe room and move that front cross brace back.
I built mine with a wide top with overhang on the back side and I work from the back since it sits out in the middle of my garage. Behind that is my regular tool box. Kind of like a galley kitchen.

 

[cderalow]

That's going to be tall. I'd remove all the wood on the bottom and use 2X2 steel with no cross bracing. Cross bracing is completely un-necessary. Like I said earlier, lag bolt the bottom 2X2 angle iron into the legs.
Now, if it is going to be up against the wall, you might raise it up a little for toe room and move that front cross brace back.
I built mine with a wide top with overhang on the back side and I work from the back since it sits out in the middle of my garage. Behind that is my regular tool box. Kind of like a galley kitchen.

that'll depend on how thick his top is.

if its single 3/4" he'll be around 40", which is actually what current bench (less the 44" box) has been built to.

 

[jfish]

I can dig up more detailed pics later but this is as it is now.

The side boxes are made to hang off the side of the large boxes. With bolts at the bottom to keep them in place. I simply removed the handles from both sides of the boxes and slid the side box between the two. The bent upper edge of the side box resting on each adjacent 44" box.

As for the top. 3/4" ply on the top to fill the gap as there is a 5/8" or so lip on the top. The countertop is basically resting on top. With the previously mentioned ledger at the rear directly under the bench top.

I've broken quite a few bolts lose with cheaters while a work piece was in that vice and nothing has moved.

 

[Aaron_W]

Look at the drawer layout of the boxes and think about what you want to put in them.

I have a 26 and a 44, the 26 isn't just "1/2" a 44, the drawers are different. 2x26+44, 2x44, 3x26, 26+44+workcart will each provide you with roughly the same size work area, but a very different drawer arrangement.

 

[esvee]

If you wanted any more inspiration, I made a wooden version of this as well and my bench is built like a tank.

View media item 91131
View media item 91508
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Happy to share the bench model if its useful for anyone.

 

[Mr_B]

I done similar in my home barn for storage and usable bench all in one .
I didn't use any 4x2 above box height (just 4x2 at back running behind box)
The top is made from 4 layers of 3/4" ply all glued together (keeps height above box to 3"), 1st layer fits in cabinet recess2nd 2 are pre bonded and attached to legs and glued to recess ply. Final ply layer covers any fixings and can be stained oiled or covered.
I put a hard wood edging around mine creating a recess for 1/4" rubber matt and give nice edge, rubber matt great work surface if no welding use and easy cleaned/replaced.
Mine is a 56" and a 26", vice is mounted over the 26 as legs either side of the 26 so more load/impact transmits down the frame rather than top of a wider box .
It proper stout, boxes themselves pretty stout and seen couple 72" with vice straight to box and holding up .