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Harbor Freight tool cabs, how I did mine

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Vettman

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Jan 27, 2009
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443
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Ca. Sierras
That looks great! I have the earlier HF box with the wrinkle red finish. I like the gloss much better!
 

WDEagle

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Jul 2, 2012
Messages
75
I love what you did with the HF tool boxes. I'm thinking of doing that along with using IKEA butcher block countertops for my future build.

Top options.

WDEagke
 

dawgee

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Mar 28, 2012
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1,035
Location
rhode island
80/20 is tough stuff. i use to build production machine bases out of it at my old jobs . You kind of have to think ahead when using it to make sure you have enough t-nuts in the slots unless you buy the expensive drop in nuts with the rubber nubs to hold them in place. Very versitile stuff
 

rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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18,506
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visalia ca
I'm an aircraft mechanic and I roll one of these boxes across the hangar floor everyyyyyyday. For what I paid for it, It's a decent little box. My only gripe is the drawers DON'T LOCK. It's such a pain in the *** for someone who is constantly rolling it around.

Don't recall where I saw it but someone epoxied pieces of wood cut to the right dimension to the inside back wall of the cabinet then epoxied rare earth magnets to the wood so they just came into contact with the back of the drawer. This held them closed while moving without locking them

Bob
 

kald

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Mar 31, 2012
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Central Fl
I ordered and 80/20 catalog after reading this thread. Now I'm getting emails everyday from them or their distributor.
 

Dan in Pasadena

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Feb 18, 2009
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Pasadena, CA
In business, the 80/20 theory is a powerful tool. This theory is called Pareto's Law after Vilfredo Pareto (1843 - 1923), an Italian economist and sociologist who said that 80% of your results come from 20% of your efforts. We run our organization this way and everyone shares in the advantages.
Our company name came from Pareto, our company philosophy comes from an ancient Chinese proverb:

"There is a man in the world who will never be turned down... he is the man who delivers the goods."

WTF?!:eyecrazy:

What does all this have to do with the use of that term for aluminum extrusion?
 

daveroy

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Sep 4, 2009
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735
Location
Omaha NE
Blasto,

Maybe a strange question... but why put verticals between the cabinets at all? Why not just build the bottom frame out of the 8020 and bolt the boxes together on it? Were you trying to reach a certain length? Do they server some other purpose I am missing?
 
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blasto9000

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Mar 20, 2011
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Los Angeles, Calif.
Blasto,

Maybe a strange question... but why put verticals between the cabinets at all? Why not just build the bottom frame out of the 8020 and bolt the boxes together on it? Were you trying to reach a certain length? Do they server some other purpose I am missing?

I plan on using the t-slot of the uprights to clamp small tools to (vises, presses, etc).

It also turned out to be the easiest way to keep the boxes from sliding off the frames. At first I was planning to use the lower (M8) holes, but that wouldn't leave enough clearance to tighten the screws closest to the wall.
 
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rigldbrg

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Jul 24, 2012
Messages
15
Bosch manufactures a version of extruded aluminum similar to 80/20. As you may expect, all of their dimensions are metric, but the cost is very similar to 80/20. As the op stated, the connectors/accessories are where the project can get out of hand price wise. I have had success finding bargains on eBay for both the aluminum stock and accessories.
 

The Lazy Destroyer

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Jun 1, 2011
Messages
181
Location
Woodstock GA
That is a great job! We used a lot of the 80/20 stuff at my old job when we had to fabricate cabinets and brackets and such, and the stuff is really strong when put together.
 

Socal 610

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Jun 8, 2011
Messages
154
Location
Phelan, CA
80/20 is preety cool stuff. We build a large workstand out of it.
 

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wildbill23c

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Jun 6, 2014
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Idaho
Wow, excellent work, they look great. You could even add a work bench style top to it if you really wanted to. Those US General cabinets are pretty good, I've had mine for about 8 years and it has set outside on my carport the whole time and haven't had any problems with it. I have the bottom and top chest for mine, can't believe how much stuff you can cram into one of these units.
 

BRENT in 10-uh-C

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Jan 28, 2006
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Tennessee
Is there a purpose for why verticals were used between the cabinets? Can/could the units be bolted together directly without any adverse issues?
 

nwdustin

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Dec 6, 2015
Messages
49
Location
Tacoma, WA
Is there a purpose for why verticals were used between the cabinets? Can/could the units be bolted together directly without any adverse issues?

Answered a page back :)


Blasto,

Maybe a strange question... but why put verticals between the cabinets at all? Why not just build the bottom frame out of the 8020 and bolt the boxes together on it? Were you trying to reach a certain length? Do they server some other purpose I am missing?

I plan on using the t-slot of the uprights to clamp small tools to (vises, presses, etc).

It also turned out to be the easiest way to keep the boxes from sliding off the frames. At first I was planning to use the lower (M8) holes, but that wouldn't leave enough clearance to tighten the screws closest to the wall.
 

myredracer

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Joined
Nov 1, 2015
Messages
557
Location
Langley, BC
Thanks a lot dude... :mad:

Now I really *NEED* to get at least one of those to go under the new workbench I just built. How the heck am I going to explain that to my wife (a penny pinching accountant) after all the $$ I just spent on finishing and outfitting "my" workshop, esp. just before Xmas?? Pretty hard to hide plus she checks the CC statements almost daily...

That does look fabulous and would never know it's not a premium price top of the line cabinet.

I have a typical 2-piece upright tool chest that is taking up valuable wall space and putting one of these under a work surface would really help.
 
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NUISANCE

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Joined
Oct 18, 2014
Messages
208
Location
Bay Area, CA
This inspired me to do my 2 tool boxes with 80/20. I had 2x 12ft pieces of 10/30 (1"x3") delivered yesterday and planned on doing my set up next weekend but Central Transport, the shipping company that does shipping for Zoro, lost the feet, brackets and bolts.

Either way this will be done and there are less expensive options that what the OP posted IE I got adjustable feet rated at 1000lbs each for $7 each. I'll post my results in this thread when all is said and done.
 

bimmerZ5

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Aug 16, 2008
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1,790
looks like the OP no longer frequents this site... was really hoping to see the final product with the top.
 

jerseykat1

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Mar 17, 2013
Messages
714
Location
Central New Jersey
The astonishing setups people have chronicled here inspired me to revamp my tool chest setup. Three of the 42-inch HF tool cabs have replaced my old setup of a 42-inch Craftsman Quiet Glide tool chest combo and a Costco 48-inch workbench with drawers. I never liked that Craftsman... it was just really poorly made and very expensive. Every time I looked at it I felt ripped off.

Sorry about the mess but it's still a work in progress. The cabs are mounted to a frame I made out of 80/20 extrusions. My floor has a steep slope to it -- the three cabs total about 11 feet in length, and the slope is over two inches. So on the original casters the cabs were all crooked and were prone to drift around the floor a bit when slamming the drawers open and closed, even with the wheels locked.

IMG_3761.jpg


The legs were all cut at different lengths (from 1.5 inch to 4.0 inch) to match the contour of the floor. 80/20 brand leveling feet provide fine adjustment. I used two feet between cabs to minimize torque load on the legs with unevenly weighted cabs. I KNEW I should have peeled the rubber pads off the feet first...

IMG_3763.jpg


The cabs and frame are all tied together using the holes where the original handles are supposed to go. Inserted the head of an M6 cap screw into the T-slot to accomplish this. There are four holes on both sides of the cabs, the inner holes are threaded M6x1.0, and the outer holes are just thru-holes in the sheet metal. I used the thru-holes backed up with fender washers and nuts on the other side. (My use of an M6 cap screw was incidental and not intended to be the same thread as the handle holes.) For some reason 80/20 doesn't offer a USS T-slot stud for this particular extrusion.

IMG_3752.jpg


Everything is super-tightly fitted and stable. SO nice to yank a heavy drawer and not have the cab roll into my car! (The verticals are short on purpose -- to accommodate the worktops. I've already designed the 80/20-to-butcher-block interface but haven't built it yet.)

IMG_3764.jpg
That's an awesome set up you got there. Don't give me any ideas.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
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blasto9000

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Joined
Mar 20, 2011
Messages
92
Location
Los Angeles, Calif.
Hi guys,

Apologies in advance for my bad form (in terms of not only vanishing for a couple years, but also revivifying a necrothread).

But, as a GJer recently emailed me inquiring on the status of the project, here's a pic of the completed project.

I can't believe I've had the setup for over four years now! The pic is from April 2015. The items on top of the worktops is an ever-changing landscape of projects. I hate storing items on worktops, but at least this way keeps my workbenches clear.

(Left to right: 12x18" granite surface plate, in an 80/20 1030 frame of course; Versa Vise on interchangeable tooling plate; axes that were in for sharpening; reloading press under the black cover, also on interchangeable tooling plate; leg off a bronze giraffe I was asked to reattach; 3D printer which I eventually threw in the trash.)

The black wall lockers are also from HF. They're not attached directly to the wall as I have them quite heavily loaded. They're bolted to 80/20 vertical stanchions that rest on the floor.

The 80/20 verticals made it easy to install some additional horizontal racking/shelving. That's what all my saws and planes and other woodworking tools are hanging on.

Scott

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