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Harbor Freight US General 5 Drawer Rear Lock Removal

bushmechanic

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Anyone know how to remove/disable the rear locking rods on one of these?

I just picked one up, but the drawers won't open unless the top is closed. The plastic plungers to activate the lock in the top are enclosed in metal. Somewhere under there they are attached to vertical rods with cutouts.

I don't want to be drilling rivets or taking things apart again without having an idea what's behind there. I can't be opening the top to open the drawers.
 
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bushmechanic

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Ha. This is why we need new threads about the same subjects and proper terminology in threads that exist; searching isn't as helpful as it could be. :lol:

I was able to find some stuff, but not much detail at all about the process. I'll inspect it more myself, but I think only two rivets hold the covers on; that's what it looked like earlier.

We'll see. I'll be sure to post a shot to specify precisely which rivets need to be drilled to access it. I don't care if it ever works again. The feature is of no use to me.

Hopefully I can yank the bars out and just not put them back in.
 
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bushmechanic

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A picture is not required.

Indeed, only two rivets must be removed. One spun on me as I forgot to grab it from the other side with Vice Grips.

Regardless, on each side of the case, a steel cover conceals the rods and the plastic tabs on top. On each side of those covers is one rivet holding it to the back panel. They are obvious, and the rest can be ignored.

That's all you have to take off. It's just a couple of minutes. Drill them out from behind (mine took a 5/32 bit; 1/8 ain't enough), and they come right off. Open the drawers a bit, and then just pull the rods right out. You'll see two springs, but they slide right off if you want them gone.

You don't even need to mess with the lid to do this. Even if the pistons are fully attached, there's plenty of room to get the rods out.

There's safety or whatever, but I don't give a damn. The drawers have latches, and I'm only using it to build computers at a height that doesn't bug my back.

Tips for removing pop rivets:

1: Use bits that are coated with titanium if possible, for reduced friction. Lubrication can help if you don't have the appropriate bits; but watch your ***... You don't want it wicking under that head.

2: Apply a good amount of pressure.

3: Start carefully and ramp up to the speed that works for the material.

4: If at all possible, grab that other side with something.

This will prevent them spinning on you, which messes up paint and is irritating as hell. One almost always spins; that's just the way of the world.

If you prevent it, though; there's no cleaner or easier way to get a rivet out.
 

Radio Flyer

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can be done several ways.

Just cut them off with a multi tool or cut off wheel.

Remove them as you have.

Or, there is a way to cut them, and reinstall the cut off in the black tip, and be able to slip them on/off as you like. This way you slip them back on if you would like to lock it back up.
 
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bushmechanic

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can be done several ways.

Just cut them off with a multi tool or cut off wheel.

Remove them as you have.

Or, there is a way to cut them, and reinstall the cut off in the black tip, and be able to slip them on/off as you like. This way you slip them back on if you would like to lock it back up.

If someone wants to steal the old computer parts in those drawers, I'd rather them have easy access. :D

It would only take about two minutes to put them back on. Four pop rivets. The rods and all just drop right back in; or use wingnuts if you want. I'm going to put a couple of bolts and nuts in them so I can hang something there later if I want.
 
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bushmechanic

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As for the quality of a $200 five drawer cart from Harbor Freight...

Shockingly good. They could sell these for a hell of a lot more in any other store. I'm big on buying American, European, Japanese, etc; but I needed something right now, and that just happened to be perfectly tailored for my requirements.

It wasn't about price, in the end; but this goes far beyond value... In my estimation, it's a lifetime purchase. Pistons will fail, but all do eventually.

When someone puts pride and effort into a product, I don't care where it comes from. This is someone really trying to do their best at a price point over there, instead of just some bargain-basement trade show queen.

At the price they could actually sell for elsewhere, it's possible for a US manufacturer to do the same. US General should be considered a lesson or shot across the bow instead of a bargain alternative.

If it sucked, I'd say so. I have no concern for one brand or another, whether I buy it or not. It doesn't ****, and I would not even call it a compromise.
 

MushCreek

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I bought a yellow one just to match my '92 Miata!

As for durability- I've been using a 44" US General for many years as a tool maker. Mine is stuffed full of solid tool steel tooling, such as vises, angle plates, magnetic chucks, etc., WAY more weight than wrenches and sockets. Still works perfectly. Other than snob appeal, it does the same thing as much, much more expensive boxes, and it held up to all day, every day commercial usage.
 
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bushmechanic

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I bought a yellow one just to match my '92 Miata!

As for durability- I've been using a 44" US General for many years as a tool maker. Mine is stuffed full of solid tool steel tooling, such as vises, angle plates, magnetic chucks, etc., WAY more weight than wrenches and sockets. Still works perfectly. Other than snob appeal, it does the same thing as much, much more expensive boxes, and it held up to all day, every day commercial usage.

I'd have preferred blue, but I had to go black because of careful color matching that has to happen on and around it. Any other color would make it impossible.

The yellow and green are pretty darn cool, as well.

I constantly have to match various ages, eras, and factory blends of "computer beige". You'd better have a black surface and calibrated lighting for matching them, and then a pure white surface for judging the overall color itself.

Royal pain in the ****, in the end, but this thing cuts out so much of the headache it's amazing. Model M and Model F keyboards in the top drawer with an AT to PS/2 converter for the M, the parts and tools for the current project which MUST stay available... All right there, nearly impossible to lose, and hidden out of sight.

I can't put stuff away at the end of the day. That's not how restoring five things in twelve hours and prepping them for sale and shipment works. If you try that, you're out of business; it's too fast-paced. If it's not in an adjacent, dedicated container, it's taking up a bench or the floor.

Now two uber-expensive machines are right there with everything they need; a desktop on the bottom, and a tower on the top; and in about a month or so, the upper compartment will actually become a computer enclosure for the modern machine that needs to roll around, as well.

I hate laptops. It's about time I've got an invisible, out of the way computer. I build them for others frequently; but you know how it goes... The Mechanic's car is often duct tape and bailing wire.
 
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