Harborfreight unsonic cleaner feedback

[kossuth]

Have an old carb that I need to go through again and considering this unit. Basically the old Marvel Schebler carb off my Granddad's Ford 8n. Tractor was slightly damaged in my dad's barn fire and needed to have tires put on the right side, a new distributor installed, new rear rim, etc. Got most everything sorted out and went to put fuel to it and it leaked gas everywhere. Heat from the fire must have damaged the carb gasket and warped the aftermarket plastic venturi in the carb.

Rebuilt the carb, no leaks, all new jets, set the float height per the manual (1/4), set the timing on the dizzy, and so on. Problem is tractor won't idle below 800 rpm. Manual states idle should be 400 rpm. I've played with the idle adjustment screw on the carb from all the way in (dead rich) to all the way out (dead lean) and it has no affect on both the idle quality on the tractor or it's ability to idle down. So at this point I'm of the opinion the idle circuit on the carb must be plugged up someplace. I soaked the carb in a soak basket and blew it out with compressed air. So I've basically done everything I can do with the tools I currently have. My question about this particular unit I'm asking about. Is it large enough to fit the parts of the carb into it. Granted it's going to be going into the machine in pieces but it looks super small and might not work on a carb of this size. Thoughts and opinions?

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html

 

[M6erfan]

I bought one several years ago to clean motorcycle carbs and small parts. I keep waiting for it to die but it mine is still trucking. There are definitely better (larger, more powerful) ones out there though at decent prices.

 

[dodge610]

Got mine a few years ago also and still ticking no complaints here.

 

[Chucktin]

The shade.tree mecanik's solution would be to pull the idle jet and take a sewing needle to the orifice(s).

 

[Greeny]

The shade.tree mecanik's solution would be to pull the idle jet and take a sewing needle to the orifice(s).

Or a strand (or two, or three) of copper wire from a multi-strand wire.

 

[Super Mech]

I have the old stainless steel one that I bought used almost ten years ago. Works perfectly but the high frequency/pitch noise it makes can get a little annoying after awhile.
Make sure the engine doesn’t have a vacuum leak preventing your idle from coming down.

 

[ndnchf]

I bought this HF unit few years ago. It works well, but let the solution get hot for best results. One important tip I'll pass along. At the top edge if the tank, where it meets the plastic, you need to seal this joint with RTV silicone sealer. If you dont, when you pour out old solution, it can leak down into the electronics - it will kill the machine.

 

[Davefr]

The HF unit is a "toy". If you want a budget cleaner kick in a few more $'s and get this unit. (about $115 shipped on Ebay)

It has 3 transducers, stainless steel tank/basket, 300 watt thermostat heater, drain valve, 6L capacity, mechanical controls, etc. I took one apart and it's decent quality and it light years ahead of that HF unit. In the long run, it'll be way more useful then the HF cheapie.

 

[kossuth]

I have the old stainless steel one that I bought used almost ten years ago. Works perfectly but the high frequency/pitch noise it makes can get a little annoying after awhile.
Make sure the engine doesn’t have a vacuum leak preventing your idle from coming down.

Checked for vacuum leaks and there are none. Basically what happens is if I screw the idle adjustment on the butterfly back to bring the idle down the engine will just stall. Have to have the choke on at that point to even have a chance to keep it running. 800 rpm is roughly the transition point on those old fords where the power jet is used to fuel the engine. From 400 to roughly 800 is where the idle jet circuit fuels the engine. Given I have to use the choke to even have a chance at idling down and the idle jet adjustment seems to have no affect it’s gotta be plugged someplace.

I’ve tried the old piano wire trick but some of those passages turn inside the upper housing and you’ll be damned lucky to fish anything through there.

https://route249.com/2018/09/09/how-to-rebuild-the-marvel-schebler-carburetor/

 

[dagofast]

My brother in law showed me a trick that usually works if the idle circuit isn't completely glued shut with varnish. If the carb idle circuit is just plugged with some loose debris, rev the hell out of the engine and slap your hand over the end of the carb. Pull your hand off before the engine completely dies. Repeat up to a half dozen times. If it isn't cleared by then, your luck just ran out. Shut it off and pull the carb.

 

[matt_i]

After the overnight soak in the carb dip I use the wire removed from a wire tag to poke out all of the holes. The idle jet is usually drilled with superfine drills at some interesting angles. You just have to find them all and poke thru.

I have had similar issues with the red tractors, minus the fire.

 

[Super Mech]

My brother in law showed me a trick that usually works if the idle circuit isn't completely glued shut with varnish. If the carb idle circuit is just plugged with some loose debris, rev the hell out of the engine and slap your hand over the end of the carb. Pull your hand off before the engine completely dies. Repeat up to a half dozen times. If it isn't cleared by then, your luck just ran out. Shut it off and pull the carb.

Wow! I remember that trick! It’s been quite a few years since I’ve done it or seen it done. It works sometimes. ****, I’m getting old.

 

[KenC]

My brother in law showed me a trick that usually works if the idle circuit isn't completely glued shut with varnish. If the carb idle circuit is just plugged with some loose debris, rev the hell out of the engine and slap your hand over the end of the carb. Pull your hand off before the engine completely dies. Repeat up to a half dozen times. If it isn't cleared by then, your luck just ran out. Shut it off and pull the carb.

That reminded me of one I hadn't seen in years. An old time mechanic would do that, and if it still didn't work, he would swap spark plug wires. Selecting a pair that would fire on an open intake. He swore the explosion would 'blow stuff out of the carb'! Maybe it worked for him, but I'm doubtful.

 

[M635_Guy]

The HF unit is a "toy". If you want a budget cleaner kick in a few more $'s and get this unit. (about $115 shipped on Ebay)

It has 3 transducers, stainless steel tank/basket, 300 watt thermostat heater, drain valve, 6L capacity, mechanical controls, etc. I took one apart and it's decent quality and it light years ahead of that HF unit. In the long run, it'll be way more useful then the HF cheapie.

Do you happen to have a link to that one? There's a million on there that look sorta like that, but...

 

[M6erfan]

Do you happen to have a link to that one? There's a million on there that look sorta like that, but...

Here's what looks like that exact model. $1k now! Far cry from $115 bucks...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6L-Stainless-Steel-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Jewelry-Glasses-Lens-Watches-Rings-Tank-US/183855784191?hash=item2acea8a0ff:g:nkkAAOSwPsZdDFFr

 

[Davefr]

There use to be tons of them on Ebay but not any more. I preferred the unit with mechanical controls because they had a 300 watt heater. For some reason the units with electronic controls only have a wimpy 200 watt heater. That extra 100 watts gets the bath to temp much quicker.

I believe all these no name Ultrasonic cleaners come from Beijing Ultrasonics as the OEM so I'd ignore the individual brand names. https://www.bjultrasonic.com/

Here's one:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/GorillaR...90989?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=17445

 

[Jagmandave]

400 RPM? that sounds very low, I would think 800 rpm would be just about right for an idle speed