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hard chroming options for hydraulic rams

toplessHO

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got some rams that are pitted,and while rebuilding them thinking of getting them rechromed.Pits arent real deep but obviously are past the chrome plating.
I dont really want to replace,machine is too old as a major component failure will most likely retire it.
I have 4 rams to redo,about 3 -4 ft long and 1.5" in diameter
 

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rustyjames

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I don't think you have much of a choice, your rebuild will be a waste of time, those rods will wipe out your new seals in no time, I would have to think. It might even be cheaper to replace the rods rather than rechroming.
 
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toplessHO

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I rebuilt one a few years ago that was almost as bad
buffed it up with the wire wheel as best I could and its still working ok
(knock on head)
But looking for options
replacing rods wont be cheap,its got a step down end that the piston is attached with
and other end is a yoke.Im sure hard chromed rod 1.5 in in diameter isnt cheap either.
 

larry_g

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Cheap old equipment isn't always cheap... Me, on my old backhoe I just figure a few bucks for fuel and a few bucks for hydraulic oil. Do you have any used equipment dismantlers in your area? Used cylinders are an option.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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toplessHO

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I knew the guy that owned Central Florida Hydraulics...he passed a few years ago.
name now comes up as Southern Hydraulics.I rebuild my own,get the seals and packing locally,but not many repair rods. Im betting southern doesnt do them in house,I ll call tomorrow and see.
 

texasranger

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How critical are the dimensions of the cylinder? You might be able to match something up on surpluscenter.com. If that's not an option I'd expect replacement rods would be cheaper than re chroming.

Honestly if the iron it's attached to isn't being used daily making you money I'd just put new seals in and clean it like you did the other one and use it.
 

gte718p

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If it is something that is used regularly, polish the pits out so they are smooth. The hydraulic oil will keep it from rusting. The problem is if it sits for long it will rust and then tear up the seals. If it is going to sit, wax the **** out of the cylinder. It is not the "right" way, but it will keep equipment running for a good while.
 

joe49

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RPS Hydraulics Hammond In 219 845 5526
Haven't had any dealings since I retired 2.5 years ago. Great work and fair prices.
 

matt_i

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If you have a lathe (ideally with a spindle tube which can pass the rod thru), the pre-chromed rods are the way to go imo. Usually some turning and threading is required. Little zip disk to get thru the hard coating so you can start turning. After that its basically shafting material (1144 tg&p). Otherwise, I would look for a shop that can replace the rods. You could save by tearing down and rebuilding the cylinders yourself, if you are up to that type of work.
 
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toplessHO

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If you have a lathe (ideally with a spindle tube which can pass the rod thru), the pre-chromed rods are the way to go imo. Usually some turning and threading is required. Little zip disk to get thru the hard coating so you can start turning. After that its basically shafting material (1144 tg&p). Otherwise, I would look for a shop that can replace the rods. You could save by tearing down and rebuilding the cylinders yourself, if you are up to that type of work.

Ive rebuilt quite a few cylinders,this is the first ones that have been so bad they need rechromed
No I dont have a lathe,and have checked Surplus center. Would take alot of modifying to get anything to work.I doubt John Deere has them any more,and if they did Im certain they will ream me a new one.
 

lukedwag

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The last rod I had made was 1.25" and 28" long. It was $700 for them to disassemble, build new rod, reassemble with new seals.
 
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toplessHO

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thanks for link to rod material
its about a toss up on replacing rods vs rechroming
but so far only have one price quote back on that.
 

bmxdad

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Anyone tried burnishing, after regrinding? Kind of specialized equipment, but you can get 16 finish easily, 8 and lower with the right tooling.
 

Danno1

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.



If it's a piece of equipment that does not bring in a paycheck, how about bondo-ing (is that a real word???) the pits w an aluminum (or steel) filled epoxy? Use some 320/400/600 emery cloth to polish off the excess. That should save the seals for awhile. Keep the oil topped off.


Again, if it's a piece of equipment that does not bring in a paycheck, just let it tear up the seals and replace the oil and seals periodically.



.
 

davewo

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I'd be surprised if there isn't some kind of epoxy filler made to be used on hydraulic shafts.
 
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texasranger

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On my compact utility tractor (also a Deere), the rods are a dull black finish rather than chrome. Not sure what it is and if it's any cheaper, but might be another option.
 

kunkernator

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mopar01

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We have used jb weld on cylinders in dump trucks on pits like that when they don't want to replace the cylinder and we're just repacking it. To be honest it holds up very well. I was surprised the first time I saw it done but it does work.
 

Spareparts

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I have used Super Glue on them before and it lasted a few years, but them rods would take a quart of it. New rods on them.
 

Strouty

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kunkernator

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I was wondering about the spray on metal, I have a kit that does that, never used it, but always wondered if it would work for that.



Most recently we used it to repair a small axle. The bearings failed and chewed up the shaft bad. Sprayed on metal, then chucked it up in the lathe to turn it down to the correct size. Sure as hell beats shelling out $3000 for a new shaft


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Strouty

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Mine is older, but it looks complete, not sure if the powder will be any good, but I want to try it someday. It was made by Eutalloy if I remember correctly.
 

HCRCnow

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got some rams that are pitted,and while rebuilding them thinking of getting them rechromed.Pits arent real deep but obviously are past the chrome plating.

I dont really want to replace,machine is too old as a major component failure will most likely retire it.

I have 4 rams to redo,about 3 -4 ft long and 1.5" in diameter



Question,
Are the cylinders two way or one way?

If your cylinders are one way. These cylinders do not need re-chroming. (Power out, gravity return)

If two way?
Chrome is a must. Hard chrome will be $2.50 to $3.00 a square inch. Plus freight.
 

homebuilt burner

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I worked at a shop a few years back that did hydraulic cylinder rebuilding. I didn't work in that part of the shop, but I did talk with those guys a lot. Rechroming versus making new shafts out of chromed material, unless it was something really special they would make new rods. The expensive part of rechrooming is the haz mat disposal they said. I have seen guys use JB Weld and had it stand up for a long time (years of light use).
 
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toplessHO

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update
found a local guy that does all the rods for the heavy equipment dealers in the area.
Price was way cheaper than replacing rods. I have all the packing but have decided to let him re assemble as hes set up to pressure and load test in his shop. Quite an impressive machine shop that does hard chroming too. He can build new rods ,barrels or even gland nuts/pistons if needed.
Pics to follow when hes done with them. Only about a 3 day turnaround too.
 

Stuart in MN

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I missed this thread earlier, but the source that comes to mind is a fellow I've been following on Youtube: Adam Booth, aka Abom79. He's a machinist at a hydraulic cylinder rebuild shop in Pensacola, and also has his own machine shop at home.

If nothing else, go watch his videos if you're at all interested in machine work, he does good stuff. https://www.youtube.com/user/Abom79
 
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toplessHO

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Stuart Im not easily impressed when it comes to machine shops but the guy I took this stuff to is impressive. He has one lathe set up with a 25 ft bed and about 5 other smaller ones that do the bulk of his work. DOM tubing is used to make new barrels or he can build a complete unit if one cant be readily found. I saw stuff going out from all over the SE so he was one of the best kept secrets catering to only the large equipment dealers. I ll see if I can get some pics of his work when I go pick stuff up.
 
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toplessHO

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I ll have to pop in some time and take some pics
sadly Ive had them back almost a year and they are still in conex awaiting install.
Family medical stuff has consumed me for that long and doesnt look any better.
Im so far behind I dont know where to start or even when I can
 

steel 35

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Sorry to here about the delays in life! know them well :Violent: I enjoyed you bringing the tread back to life as I didn't see it before, kind of miss all the time I spent repairing & building stuff with hydraulics, good luck getting it going again, start making a list it helps :bowdown:
 
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