To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Hardened Adhesive removal

F

Firebrick43

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
14,014
Location
West central Indiana
So this weekend I hit the jackpot and found a rust free GMT800 suburban that one of my customers was selling. While its in great overall condition being 22 years old it still needs a quite a few small cosmetic issues and some preventative maintenance issues taken care off.

The LT emblems behind the back doors on the pillars were curling up maybe 25 percent of the area so I got the heat gun out and pulled them off. Most of my vehicles I delete the emblems when I first buy them (usually new) and goo be gone gets rid of all the remaining adhesive.

Goo be gone worked great where the adhesive was still functioning but the areas that had already curled up it was rock hard. After three days of liberal application its still rock hard.

Any suggestions on how to soften this hard adhesive so i wont scratch the paint?

One of the door moldings are missing the chrome strip so I am considering pulling them off as well. I assume they painted under them before sticking them on but I want to be sure before going down that path.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
J

jack stand

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
3,319
Location
Lakes Region Maine
You know the "without pictures..."
saying. Let us see your jackpot. 👍
I wish I could answer your question, I can imagine that it's a serious adhesive. Maybe an auto body type has a solution.
 
6

69charged

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2007
Messages
469
Location
carberry, manitoba
I always use brake kleen. WD-40 works as well but takes a long time.
Just did my boat decals today!
IMG_5049.jpeg

The black is the adhesive backing that’s left. Brake kleen and a little bit of rubbing and she’s gone.
 
OP
F

Firebrick43

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
14,014
Location
West central Indiana
jack stand said:
You know the "without pictures..."
saying. Let us see your jackpot. 👍
I wish I could answer your question, I can imagine that it's a serious adhesive. Maybe an auto body type has a solution.
Click to expand...
You are going to have to wait. I should have taken a pic when I bought it. The in garage pictures has way too much glare. While troubleshooting the windshield washer system(broken hard plastic tubing) I had to remove the battery and battery tray. And I found the tray rusty probably from a previously leaking battery.

Of course one bolt head was so gone I had to cut it and while trying to get the support bracket out to remove the broken bolt I broke another. The support bracket is ok but for 30$ I can get a new one instead of repainting it and a new battery tray for another 25$ so they are on their way.

IMG_1175.jpeg

PCustoms said:
Eraser wheel?
Click to expand...

Will they scratch if the adhesive is really hard. Almost feels like dried super glue.

IMG_1174.jpeg
 
P

PCustoms

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
22,504
Location
VT
Firebrick43 said:
It doesnt appear to have damaged it yet. Some of the stuff is I haven't wiped it clean and the foil from the adheasive
Click to expand...
If chemical adhesive remover hasn't worked it bust out a razor blade to carefully go at it, then wet sand and buff.

I'm shocked chemicals haven't worked. Maybe soak a rag and let it sit?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
S

slik560

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Messages
787
Location
Kansas, USA
3M makes a pretty effective adhesive remover [spray can] that is paint safe. I'd take a piece of plastic wrap from the kitchen, give that spot a spray of the remover then slap the plastic wrap on. It will hold it in place and let the remover work a while without evaporating.

Fingers crossed.

There's always acetone....but as a last resort.

Good luck with all of it. I'd love to find an older Suburban to keep alive.
 
J

johnnn

Active member
Joined
May 22, 2017
Messages
30
3m stripe off is an example of an eraser wheel. It will make a mess on the floor but shouldn't scratch paint. Probably won't do too much if rock hard. Mineral spirits might be next step if alcohol isn't working. Finger tips and friction work best to remove if softened, move fast and switch fingers before you cause a blister.
 
OP
F

Firebrick43

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
14,014
Location
West central Indiana
Well ****

So I got some 3M 08984 today (its expensive and even with the garage door open made me high, potent stuff) It cleaned the dirt and out pretty quickly (and maybe some adhesive) and then it was evident that what most of what I thought was adhesive was actually crazed/crinkled clear coat.

My guess is the adhesive had somehow reacted to the clear coat softened it and when the badges came free/curled around the edges the clear coat rehardened? The center area that is shiny and where the badges were still stuck down actually pulled the clear coat free when I heated and removed the badges.

And yes some of it is basecoat that pulled when the edges curled.

i guess i will carefully wet sand with a small piece of wet dry the rest of the clear coat off that is crazed and I don't know if i should mask/clear coat it just to level it out or just stick new badges on top.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom