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Hardi Plank Siding Issues

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grissom

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Northern California
I recently went to look at a property for sale and it had a lot of these broken corners on the siding

Was this caused by improper fastener placement or a defective product?

IMG_5525[1].PNG
 
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mike93lx

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Is that lap siding? If so, that nail should not be there.

They either installed it improperly or added those nails to deal with an issue.

I would say residing will be in the near future
 
OP
G

grissom

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Northern California
mike93lx said:
Is that lap siding? If so, that nail should not be there.

They either installed it improperly or added those nails to deal with an issue.

I would say residing will be in the near future
Click to expand...
IMG_5058[1].JPG

This is occuring on all four sides of the building (2100 sq ft)
 
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nadogail

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Hardie Board as shown above appears to be incorrectly installed. The installation should be a clue to other poor practices that will be uncovered after a close examination.
 
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Solpainter

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Each joint also needs flashing under it. it appears none is present in the photo. There also needs to be gap for expansion and should never be caulked.
 
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CTyankee

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FWIW, While I'd agree on the nail placement and obvious the cluelessness as to the nature of the products composition, Hardie Board installation instructions use to call for caulking and not flashing of the joints and face nailing is acceptable if it meets local codes. So depending on when and where it was put up it could have been considered proper installation at the time. Regardless, poor R&D is only one reason I think the product isn't a very good choice for siding. JMO, YMMV.
 
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Jackfre

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In remodeling our place I used the Hardi Artisan planks. They are a full 1/2” thick T&G ended plank. I bought the pre-finished painted with the 15 yr warranty. There are no fasteners showing and 8 yrs in it looks as good as the day it was finished. For fire prevention purposes I used Hardi clapboard on the shed 12‘ off the side of the house. I flashed each joint and mounted it with a Bostitch coil nailer, again no face nails and on a flat surface it lays flat. On the well house and the gable end on my shop I used Hardi board and batten panels. I did have to face nail the battens of course but 5 yrs in there is not sign of deterioration. Hardi takes paint really well. If you are looking for a building permit here in the foothills of the Sierra you have to have fire resistant siding. Doing Hardi allowed me to maintain my fire insurance…for now. Whoever installed the OP’s siding should get smacked. it is a good product when properly installed, but it will continue to deteriorate with rainfall absorption over time as shown in the photos.
 
OP
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grissom

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Jackfre said:
In remodeling our place I used the Hardi Artisan planks. They are a full 1/2” thick T&G ended plank. I bought the pre-finished painted with the 15 yr warranty. There are no fasteners showing and 8 yrs in it looks as good as the day it was finished. For fire prevention purposes I used Hardi clapboard on the shed 12‘ off the side of the house. I flashed each joint and mounted it with a Bostitch coil nailer, again no face nails and on a flat surface it lays flat. On the well house and the gable end on my shop I used Hardi board and batten panels. I did have to face nail the battens of course but 5 yrs in there is not sign of deterioration. Hardi takes paint really well. If you are looking for a building permit here in the foothills of the Sierra you have to have fire resistant siding. Doing Hardi allowed me to maintain my fire insurance…for now. Whoever installed the OP’s siding should get smacked. it is a good product when properly installed, but it will continue to deteriorate with rainfall absorption over time as shown in the photos.
Click to expand...

I don't own the building, its on a property that is for sale. Just want to know what potentially the problems are

So you switched from a wood type siding to Hardi Plank and you were able to keep your fire insurance - interesting.

I had to go with the California Fair Plan at my current place
 
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Jackfre

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I guess I should have said it contributed to my keeping my insurance. I have State Farm and in Nevada County they are writing some new policies dependent upon address. They may write a policy on one side of the street but not the other. Totally dependent on the address.
The problems to come on that job is water intrusion and absorption. The raw corners and nail holes will absorb moisture. Of course it rarely rains here any more so maybe it will last forever.
 
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mark198

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Are all boards face nailed? is that the original color of the siding? Are those edges cut or factory?

It looks like that may be a repair from a previous issue. Only factory edges should ****, cut edges go against the trim boards.
 
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Uncle murph

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Harford county
grissom said:
I recently went to look at a property for sale and it had a lot of these broken corners on the siding

Was this caused by improper fastener placement or a defective product?

IMG_5525[1].PNG
Click to expand...
This is poor installation plain and simple,I can’t see any **** flashing either,if it’s there it’s to short.Plan on more problems or redoing it.
 
Y

yeldogt

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Jan 2, 2012
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You can face nail Hardi -- need to use proper nail and placement ... don't overdrive.

No caulk on the joints --- the ends need to be painted. Flashing behind joint.

I like Hardi as it does not burn -- it holds up. Also -- no bevel ... so it looks like thin historic lap (
 
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Firebrick43

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CTyankee said:
FWIW, While I'd agree on the nail placement and obvious the cluelessness as to the nature of the products composition, Hardie Board installation instructions use to call for caulking and not flashing of the joints and face nailing is acceptable if it meets local codes. So depending on when and where it was put up it could have been considered proper installation at the time. Regardless, poor R&D is only one reason I think the product isn't a very good choice for siding. JMO, YMMV.
Click to expand...
Years and years ago they allowed caulking. They do not anymore

Hardie installation manual states "Tapajuntas de unión NO enmasille la unió" for the installers.

or "Joint Flashing Do NOT caulk joint". That is a direct quote from the james hardie installation manual.

The spacing is 3/8 from the edge, which the picture appears to be. The nails that broke off are over driven and more than likely hammer driven. A nail gun set correctly is much better than hammer driven nails.
 
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CTyankee

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Firebrick43 said:
Years and years ago they allowed caulking. They do not anymore

Hardie installation manual states "Tapajuntas de unión NO enmasille la unió" for the installers.

or "Joint Flashing Do NOT caulk joint". That is a direct quote from the james hardie installation manual.

The spacing is 3/8 from the edge, which the picture appears to be. The nails that broke off are over driven and more than likely hammer driven. A nail gun set correctly is much better than hammer driven nails.
Click to expand...
Pretty sure that's what I said...they use to. And I'd venture to guess that a lot of homes that are around today still have the same siding that was applied "years and years" ago.
 
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jmarkwolf

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Southeast Michigan
I had some Hardie board siding start to sag badly at the ends when the nails "wallowed out". Apparently, the weight of the board, which is not insignificant, played a role in the nail holes "wallowing out". Further, the nails had not been located at studs, and had been driven in too far, piercing the surface of the board.

Had to have 5 courses of board replaced, and some others face nailed at studs.
 
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