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Hardie Help Please

FunfDreisig

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Feb 12, 2008
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413
I've searched this forum and read through several threads about Hardie (fiber cement) siding but they didn't answer my specific questions. SO here goes...

The smooth HardiePlank and HardieTrim or my 25x42' 3 bay garage was delivered this AM :) I'll be installing it solo on 2x4 walls 16"OC with 7/16 OSB shear panel (w/ Tyvek).

Paint: The plan is to paint the HardieTrim and Planks prior to installation.

Question 1 - Has anyone painted Hardie products prior to installation? and if so, do you have any tips?

Question 2 - What brand paint will be both easy to apply and last the longest? What applicator (e.g. brush, roller, pad, etc)

Spacing tools: The HardiePlank pattern has an alternating reveal of 10" and 4" using 12" and 5 1/4" HardiePlank. This means I'll need multiple/adjustable spacers for solo hanging.

Question 3 - Any recommendations what tools/spacers would facilitate hanging HardiePlank solo with a variable overlap?

Fasteners: - I'd rather use tools I already own:) So..

Question 4 - Has anyone installed HardiePlank with a Round Head framing gun? What nails did you use?

Question 5 - What screws would work well? Would you pre-drill?

Any other tips are more than welcome.

Thanks in Advance - Funf Dreisig
 
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porschedude996TT

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FunfDreisig

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I bought certainteed and bought it prepainted. I have not recieved it as yet, but it may make it easier. I would paint it with a roller with a high quality paint.

Try the manufacturer's information for installation. I would make some hangers that can be screwed from above and able to move up as you go.

http://www.jameshardie.com/builder/products_siding_hardieplankLapSiding.py?openTab=jsnavLink4
Thanks. I tried to buy my Hardie pre-painted. BUT... here in Central Texas NONE of the widths/finishes I needed was available pre-painted :( The best I could do was to get it primed and even that required a special order.

FWIW I've read all the Hardie install literature on their webstie. But it is designed/written for folks that have multiple person crews (no info on solo hanging) and have tools specifically designed for applying siding (e.g. a pneumatic coil nailer for the skinny nails less than 2" long with large round heads).

Thanks again - Funf Dreisig
 

2level

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Apr 10, 2008
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Washington
I was going to use prepainted hardie plank on my garage. I talked with several subs.The installers I talked with did not want to hang the stuff if it was prepainted. They claimed it takes way longer to install because of scratching issues. Also, there will normally be some face nailing on seams. When you use caulk in those nail holes, matching the paint color might be a problem.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Guy at work re-sided his house with Hardie (removed that defective LP siding) He made the clips to support it and space it correctly, and screwed it on using self drilling stainless screws. Did all the work by himself.

Charles
 

Mikea57

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May 28, 2008
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Olive Branch, MS
I resided my whole house with Hardie Plank and I made several gaffes during it. I used the 4' X 8' sheets and I also used the lap siding on a portion of it but I did not use the trim boards. What I bought was preprimed and everything was painted after installation.Maybe I can provide some tips though.

First, I would strongly recommend that you NOT cut the Hardie Plank with a circular saw. It works but the dust it raises is very dangerous. It took me spitting up blood to finally get it through my thick head that I needed to take precautions. Get the snippers!!

Secondly, I agree with 2level, prepainting does present some problems with installing it once the "final" coat is on. I painted mine after installing and it still looks good. I don't own that house any longer but I drive by occasionally just to see how it's lasting and it still looks good 5+ years later. My painter sprayed it and he put it on pretty thick.

Third, get some help. I installed these all by myself and it was very, very hard. Carrying those 4 X 8 billboards around was not something I would want to do again. And the narrower the width of the piece the more flimsy it becomes. It took having a couple of pieces break as I tried to carry them from my cutting area to where I was hanging them before I got it through my thick head that I needed help.

I hand nailed everything because, well, I didn't have an air nailer. I used the nails that were recommended by the hardware store that sold me the planks. It seemed very sturdy at the time. If I remember correctly, I lapped the lap planks by 1/2" to 3/4" and I used the hanger clips supplied by Hardie Plank. I've still got most of a box of those and if you are interested in them PM and we can discuss.

I really like the Hardie Plank product and would use it again. I don't see how anyone who is siding a building would choose masonite siding over the Hardie Plank. Back when I did it, the cost difference was negligible.
 

JMURiz

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Dec 6, 2005
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NoVA
I had my Hardie Plank installed, but I did paint it myself. Found using paint-pads really easy...since it was a 7" reveal. I used that Behr Premium Plus paint and primer in one. Worked out well and has stood up for 2 years thus far.

I did build a shed with the scraps of siding, I just made a line and held them in place (only 6' spans) and screwed them into place, was rather easy.
 
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Big_Grizzly

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Apr 10, 2009
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I used to work for Lowe's as a Millwork & Building Materials Specialist. Never installed the stuff, but I have sold more than my fair share and spoke with customer service many times.

I would not paint it before installing. As was mentioned before, too many issues with scratching the paint and then filling holes with color matched caulk. Much easier to install, fill all holes and then paint.

I would certainly use stainless fasteners first if I had the choice. Next would be ceramic coated. Predrilling is a must or using a self drilling screw will work.

If you have very long pieces, I do recommend help. This stuff is VERY fragile when not installed...and sturdy as hell when installed. After you break a few pieces trying to carry them alone you will see.

Good luck.:thumbup:
 

Tman

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Jan 29, 2006
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Black Hills of South Dakota
No need to pre-drill. I use my Paslode framing nailer with #8 coated ring shanks. I nail on studs and anyplace in between that needs to be. I have found through doing several buildings that blind nailing does not always get it to sit perfect, some face nailing is required. I have always painted it once installed.
 

mpraddict

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Jan 28, 2007
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Location
Central Ohio
First, I would strongly recommend that you NOT cut the Hardie Plank with a circular saw. It works but the dust it raises is very dangerous. It took me spitting up blood to finally get it through my thick head that I needed to take precautions. Get the snippers!!

Good advice....
Read the instructions for cutting. The silica dust that is created can be VERY harmful to your lungs (cancer). Not worth the risk just to save a little money.
 

JMURiz

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Good advice....
Read the instructions for cutting. The silica dust that is created can be VERY harmful to your lungs (cancer). Not worth the risk just to save a little money.

Whoops forgot to add that I used a cement fiberboard cutting shear to cut my pieces. REALLY easy to use on a drill and no dust at all, can even use it to make curved cuts.

I would highly recommend using one (I even used a mask when cutting with mine to be safe).
 

700jfm

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Jan 29, 2008
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383
If you have very long pieces, I do recommend help. This stuff is VERY fragile when not installed...and sturdy as hell when installed. After you break a few pieces trying to carry them alone you will see.

Good luck.:thumbup:


+1 I'm working on my hardie right now. After I sacrificed a few to the hardie God's I'm starting to get the hang of it.

Here's what I got done today. I used the 2x4 to hold the end in place, and the "T" looking to hold it against the wall. When you got to do it with no help, you improvise.
Picture004-2.jpg
 
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