Hardie panels

[firedog14]

Have a question for you guys...How difficult is hardie panels to work with, as far as cutting and installing? Do i need to pre-drill holes for screwing?

I just purchased a house that has a detached 40x25 garage and they used t-111 paneling that is rotting away and i want to replace it with something that will last a while. Is hardie panels a good choice??

Thanks

 

[Falcon67]

Well - everything has it's challenges. Read all the PDF files at James Hardi about the panels you want to use. I'm using Sierra 8 and it requires double studs at the panel joins. Not a big deal, but something you need to know. You will want to stock up on low cost carbide circular saw blades - they cut the panels easy but wear out fast. This stuff is basically cast concrete sold in sheets. You will have to wear a good mask, eye protection and ear protection when cutting because it generate a huge cloud of dust that contains silica. You can also score and snap the sheets. I hung mine with a nail gun and #8 galvanized ring shank nails. If you use a gun, you will want to take a cutting to set your driven depth so that the nails land a little proud or just on the panel surface. All that is detailed in the application PDFs. If the nail penetrates through the surface, it will not hold the panel. The panels are heavy - Sierra 8 panels weight 75 lbs each. They are 5/16" thick in 4x8 sheets. HardiTrim is 1/4" thick and can be bought in 4x8 sheets and cut to your needs. The panels are tough and at the same time fragile. You can easily snap a 12" wide strip with your hands. Pick up an 8' x 12" piece of HardiTrim from one end and you will have two pieces. If you miss a stud with a nail gun, you will have a hole through the panel. When I had mis-fire nails with the gun or hit something behind the panel that stopped the nail, I would cut the exposed part off and drive the rest flush with a hammer. Trying to remove a ring shank nail from a stud/panel is a lost cause. The panels are tough, stiff and can be hung over 24" OC stud spacing with no problem. They also act as a shear panel, so an underlayer of OSB isn't needed. They hold paint really well and will last a good long time. They recommend 6" ground clearance, but I have 4" and I'm not worried about it.

 

[cowboyjosh]

^^^What he said.

Just a little info on James Hardie. We use CertainTeed Fiber Cement siding as opposed to Hardie. Had a couple cases where an entire wall of Hardie siding split, every board from the top of the house down; the installer (a Hardie authorized siding installer) called JH and they sent one of their district guys out and took a look at the "authorized" install and said and I quote "**** happens" and that was the resolution they gave us. After a few more phone calls and e-mails they gave the homeowner $500 out of "good will". Since then we have used CertainTeed, and while their products are not without issues, they are easier to deal with and to get answers / resolution from then James Hardie.

Like "TREX" composite decking, "JAMES HARDIE" is just a brand name, and there are about a dozen fiber cement manufacturers that you can check out to see who offers the best bang for the buck with the best warranty.

 

[tyjoja]

I would stay with the hardi product. I think the quality and paintability is better/longer lasting. I have always used their lap siding instead of panels, but both are easy. The lap siding allows you to have all hidden nails and looks classier. You do not have to predrill the nail holes, in fact I usually use a nail gun. If your t1-11 isn't terrible leave it on as subsiding. It would have to be really bad not to be able to use it. I've never used the carbide blade to cut it, they make an electric shear, kind of on a hand drill that I've used exclusively to reside 10+ houses. very easy to use, no dust, doesn't get dull. In fact some bldg. suppliers where I live, if you buy the siding from them, they will let you use their shears for free. IMO use the lap siding which doesn's cost much more and then you don't have to deal with the nail heads. Also caulk as you go. Put a piece on, caulk the end and slap the next one on and wipe the excess off with a wet rag. I always cut two measuring jigs out of wood to hook under the 1 below to set the next on to get the lap exact and so forth. If you use the exact paint that hardi recommends they will guarantee the paint for 20 years I think. Goes on quick and looks great. Any questions just ask, good luck, bob

 

[slip knot]

Big fan of Hardi siding. I've used the product on several houses and really like it. I use the HD red hardi blade to cut it @$20 well spent. It'll cut a whole house worth on one blade. I use the lap siding but do face nail it due to wind loading ( hurricanes) along the TX coast. I usually put a small piece of flashing behind the joints to protect from caulk failure, no moisture will get behind it. Put the Hardi up over a solid backing ( plywood) and its damm near bullet proof. After installing the Hardi my insurance will give me a masonry rating on the siding which = $ savings! Good luck.

 

[TheShrine]

I covered the entire SHRINE exterior with Hardi over OSB. With the exception of the cedar beams all trim and battens are Hardi as well. They were installed by a plain 'ol everyday builder with no installation "authorization" implied or needed. It was finished late in '08 and there isn't a blemish/defect/crack or otherwise anywhere on on any panel.

It was one of my best decisions on this build and I'd do it again in a second!

 

[n2hcky]

We sell the Hardie product at our store and I got rooked into doing the display walls. I have to say if you are going to cut very much of it is find a set of shears.
You do lose about 1/4" per cut but you get almost NO DUST. Cutting with a saw is a huge PIA. Will not only make a mess but will most likely ruin the saw you use.
The color plus stuff is has a great finish on it.
Another brand to look at is NICHIHA. We have had really good luck with it too.

 

[AndysMBgarage]

A little OT but I'll never knowingly use another James Hardie product as long as I live.

My dad suffered from mesothelioma and it eventually led to his passing. These dogs at JH did whatever they could to deny any responsability to thousands of people in Australia.

http://www.australianasbestosnetwor...he+Battles/Battling+James+Hardie/default.aspx

****** them

 

[theoldwizard1]

We sell the Hardie product at our store and I got rooked into doing the display walls. I have to say if you are going to cut very much of it is find a set of shears.

Not familiar with these. Got a link ?

 

[csp]

Do a google search on "cement siding shears".

I used a dry diamond blade rather than a carbide to cut mine at first. The fine dust pretty much ruined the bearings in a relatively inexpensive circular saw. The diamond blade never did show any signs of wear like a carbide would.

 

[5lima30]

I like Hardie panel siding...but it is very heavy and hard on the back!

 

[knagy389us]

I'm from the land of vinyl siding, so when I moved here I said hardi what? The house and now the garage done in hardi, and this stuff rocks (no pun intended) I also notice it insulates very well, heat, cold and even noise!

The new garage done in all hardi

 

[valvestud]

http://www.pactool.us/snappershear/

 

[Falcon67]

> IMO use the lap siding which doesn's cost much more
I would have rather used lap, but pricing it out locally was about 3 times what it would cost for the panels. That's not counting the OSB underlayment. The budget just wasn't big enough for that. But it would have looked real good.

Good point on the shears. I could not find a Hardi blade locally, so I just bought a cheap 3 pack of Lowes carbide blades. $5 each makes them tossable. I also used an Accu-Rip on my saw to get straight and repeatable cuts. It makes a mess and noise, but it's over with quick using the Accu-Rip saw guide. 20 seconds maybe to take 5" off a panel end.

 

[38Chevy454]

I used the panels on a shed project about 11 years ago at my old house. You can cut it with a regular circular saw and it does eat the blades. I designed my shed so I did minimal cutting and did not have any problems when i did need to cut for windows or door opening. I just pounded nails through, no drilling, it can be hard to get started if the nail is not sharp point. Keep enough edge distance on the nails, it can chip out if too close to the edge. I used the Hardie panels for the rot resistance vs wood. They are heavy, a 3/8 thick sheet seems like a 1-inch thick plywood.

 

[camarotoolman]

Hardi dust cause canser in Cal. So be carefull with the dust. We put it over concrete blocks then 1" insolation, then 1x4 furing strips, then Hardy. Made on hell of a wall, then the Air Force torn it all down 8 years later! No wonder were 14 tillion in debt!

 

[shanker]

the second floor of my house has Cedar Siding that is now 41 years old and showing its age...I plan on going right over it with Hardi board...I was just going to put some 1" furring strips down to create an air layer for added insulation and go to to town on it...I hope it'll work out for the better...I already trimmed my house and new windows out with 1X5 hardi and love the look of it....

 

[firedog14]

Wow.. Thanks for all the responses. I decided to go with the siding over the t1-11 instead of the panels. Taking a little longer and a bit more money but it looks much better than what the panels would look like!! Have one long side done so far.

Thanks for the help.

 

[805gregg]

Watch out for Hardie in very wet places. They used to make roofing products. I had a customer with a leaky swamp cooler, it dripped on the Hardie shingles, until it trurned the Hardie into something similar to a graham cracker. Hardie no longer makes roofing products out of their cement board, a roofing material that won't stand up to water?

 

[Tman]

I have done 2 houses in the last few years using Hardie siding. Shears ARE THE ONLY way to go! As for the dust, well DUH!?!?!? ANY dust is bad for you, use your head and the proper safety gear.

This October we had hail larger than golfball size, all my neighbors ended up residing their west walls, we lost two windows and NO damage to the siding. I am sold.

 

[shanker]

I have done 2 houses in the last few years using Hardie siding. Shears ARE THE ONLY way to go! As for the dust, well DUH!?!?!? ANY dust is bad for you, use your head and the proper safety gear.

This October we had hail larger than golfball size, all my neighbors ended up residing their west walls, we lost two windows and NO damage to the siding. I am sold.

will shears (i'm assuming you mean a break) cut the thick trim pieces as well?

 

[Chaz]

I used all hardie panels and hardie batts on my shop. screwed it on... So far I'm very satisfied. I cut the panels with a skilsaw with the concrete board blade. It took only one blade. (I ran it backwards for the last half of the job.) I used my chopsaw with dull carbide blades from my tablesawto cut the batts. It took two.

 

[toasterburn]

We just used hardie to close in our carport, nice thing about it is it's surprisingly insulating.

 

[bigred292]

I just did the front of my garage with Hardie clap- Did my parents house with it 10 yrs ago and no problems so far.
As far as cutting it they do make a manual shear that cuts it beautifully- it can also cut Pergo flooring too. It goes for around $270 though- couldn't justify buying it for 5 square.
Easiest thing to do is search CL- someone is always giving away a radial arm saw. Set the radial arm saw up outside and cut away-- buy a Diablo blade at HD for $20 and you can't go wrong.

 

[Tman]

will shears (i'm assuming you mean a break) cut the thick trim pieces as well?

The shears nibble through the siding leaving little "worms" of kerf material. The ones I used did not have a throat deep enough for thicker trim.

 

[slickgt1]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014E9WN2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Here you go guys. Love this thing.

 

[shanker]

The shears nibble through the siding leaving little "worms" of kerf material. The ones I used did not have a throat deep enough for thicker trim.

I thought that you were talking about the Brake that I've seen some supply stores sell to cut Concrete Fiber board...it's really cool, basically a regular old sheet metal brake with some sharper edges...cuts Hardi like butter