Hardie siding and trim fastening

[850xpeps]

Have started to install some of my hardie vertical siding. But because of crappy product I’m going to get my 3rd lift of panels. Hoping this won’t be an issue with them.

Wondering what some of you do to attach the trim on top of the hardie? I will have battens every 16” so using nails would
Give me lots of holes and not sure how to fill them. We will caulk behind every one to help use less nails. But wondering how people out there fill nail holes as hardie says don’t use color caulk.

 

[Lunker]

They have touch up paint for the nail holes. Just paint over them

 

[850xpeps]

They have touch up paint for the nail holes. Just paint over them

Have the touch up paint. Looks junky imo when I have to put so many nails because of the amount of batten. Using 15 ga nailer. Maybe a smaller ga but worried nails won’t penetrate.

 

[Firebrick43]

Have the touch up paint. Looks junky imo when I have to put so many nails because of the amount of batten. Using 15 ga nailer. Maybe a smaller ga but worried nails won’t penetrate.

Your not using a siding nailer?

 

[850xpeps]

Your not using a siding nailer?

I’m using a siding nailer for the panel yes. Not for the batten. That would be overkill imo.

 

[drs3317]

I used the hardie putty to fill in the small holes using a small squeegee. Stuff dries hard as nails and is waterproof when dried. Just paint over. Has worked great for me.

 

[Jackfre]

I have the gable endsof my shop and the well house I just...almost, finished done in Hardi B&B. On those 2 3/4” battens I used my framing nailer with 2 1/2” nails. Two nails side by side about 16” spread. I was careful not to get to close to the edge and slightly angled the nails toward the center. I set the nailer to drive flush of slightly proud and hammered those home. The nail heads are visible but I have a dark green (Pittsburgh Charcoal smoke) on it and they are not objectionable, to me at least.

 

[Firebrick43]

I’m using a siding nailer for the panel yes. Not for the batten. That would be overkill imo.

So is ring shank hot dipped galvanized nails available for a 15 ga finish nailer? I have only seen smooth electro galvanized ones.

It does look nice! The color scheme really sets it off.

I have noticed half a dozen new homes built in the last three months with what I assume is hardie board and batten. Must be a new trend.

 

[Falcon67]

I used HardiPanel and regular exterior paintable "50 year" caulk on the seams. Haven't noticed any issues because of that.

 

[850xpeps]

I have the gable endsof my shop and the well house I just...almost, finished done in Hardi B&B. On those 2 3/4” battens I used my framing nailer with 2 1/2” nails. Two nails side by side about 16” spread. I was careful not to get to close to the edge and slightly angled the nails toward the center. I set the nailer to drive flush of slightly proud and hammered those home. The nail heads are visible but I have a dark green (Pittsburgh Charcoal smoke) on it and they are not objectionable, to me at least.

I would be worried about nail heads rusting over time. But with my white siding that isn’t an option anyway.

So is ring shank hot dipped galvanized nails available for a 15 ga finish nailer? I have only seen smooth electro galvanized ones.

It does look nice! The color scheme really sets it off.

I have noticed half a dozen new homes built in the last three months with what I assume is hardie board and batten. Must be a new trend.

No one up around me has done it yet. It’s not common around here. The panels most
Likely get used more for commercial. It’s real hard to get good advice from anyone around as no one does this.

I used the hardie putty to fill in the small holes using a small squeegee. Stuff dries hard as nails and is waterproof when dried. Just paint over. Has worked great for me.

I can’t seem to find info on the hardie putty and people up here don’t know about it. Illl keep digging.

 

[850xpeps]

I used HardiPanel and regular exterior paintable "50 year" caulk on the seams. Haven't noticed any issues because of that.

Wonder why they say don’t use their color match in the nail holes

 

[Falcon67]

PS - did not caulk any nail heads, just used the framing nailer with galvanized nails, adjusted it for proper penetration.

 

[Falcon67]

PSS - used pre-primed, not colors panels. Preferred to pick my own color.

 

[csp]

Wonder why they say don’t use their color match in the nail holes

It's very noticeable after a few years. I had a contractor use the color match caulk on one area of siding nail holes and it sticks out like a sore thumb.

 

[tcianci]

I have installed miles of Hardie lap siding. Although they do supply a colored caulk to use with the product, they advise you not to use it on nail holes or **** joints because of the smearing of the product as you try to clean it up. We use it carefully on the ends of runs where the die into corner boards or inside corners and don't spread it around. The solution I have come to for **** joints is to put a piece of blue tape down either side of the joint, caulk, wipe and peel the tape. In the case where you're trying to do this on battens, you might want to put the blue tape on the batten, nail through it, fill and then peel. No mess, no smearing. no color shifts over time on the surface of the batten

 

[850xpeps]

I have installed miles of Hardie lap siding. Although they do supply a colored caulk to use with the product, they advise you not to use it on nail holes or **** joints because of the smearing of the product as you try to clean it up. We use it carefully on the ends of runs where the die into corner boards or inside corners and don't spread it around. The solution I have come to for **** joints is to put a piece of blue tape down either side of the joint, caulk, wipe and peel the tape. In the case where you're trying to do this on battens, you might want to put the blue tape on the batten, nail through it, fill and then peel. No mess, no smearing. no color shifts over time on the surface of the batten

I was thinking about doing this with painters tape.just unsure of how the caulk will last. I filled the trim nail holes on my last place and the smear turned white. It was the charcoal color. But the nail filled spot stayed. I was only there for 2 years after though.

Ya the lap siding is easy. We do the corners as well and **** joints we lap tar paper behind and over the previous lap so any water in the joint will be shed.

 

[Trock03]

I installed my Hardie trim with my 15 gauge nailer. After some trial and error we ended up placing painters tape everywhere we planned to nail. A buddy came right behind caulking the nail holes and pulling the tape off. You have to make sure to pack the holes with caulk otherwise you'll end up with a divot when it dries.

TC

 

[yeldogt]

Hardie specifically says not to caulk **** joints ?

 

[850xpeps]

Hardie specifically says not to caulk **** joints ?

Yup right in the installation book. A no smoking symbol over a caulking gun.

 

[Falcon67]

Yup right in the installation book. A no smoking symbol over a caulking gun.

Ignored said instructions. I might not have had I though to put tar paper strips as a backer for the panel joints, but that was an oops during the build. So I sealed up the seams and rolled on paint. So far, nothing of note has come of it. The west wall is exposed to the most radical weather changes and can reach 130~140F in summer. It's now gray. It was barn red, with that paint the surface temp was as high as 160F.

 

[RAYJAY]

all of our trim was done with stainless steel finish nail's

 

[yeldogt]

Yup right in the installation book. A no smoking symbol over a caulking gun.

I grew up in an old house (1890's) -- mostly stone with a slate roof. My first major project was an 1810 federal in an eastern city. Both built before caulk and glues ... it was not until I was in my late 20's and started to rehab WW1 craftsman bungalows that I ran into all the "modern" ways to rebuild -- this was in the late 80's. I'm not against modern building materials or modern methods -- but some don't make much sense.

Caulk being at the top of the list.

I'm also old enough now (50') to see how these project age -- I now own my parents original house .. so that interesting. You learn that vinyl siding is not forever -- same with aluminum trim caping .. and caulk.

Most modern building products really hate trapped moisture .. and caulk ends up failing and trapping moisture making the whole thing worse. Old buildings used flashing and the ability to dry. If you look at an original board and batten building -- they were faced nailed. When I last used Hardi pre-painted while trim it was a BB building -- surfaced nailed w/ stainless -- looked great.

My last project was finished trim -- there I had to countersink and fill -- used Boral and primed/painted.

 

[850xpeps]

I grew up in an old house (1890's) -- mostly stone with a slate roof. My first major project was an 1810 federal in an eastern city. Both built before caulk and glues ... it was not until I was in my late 20's and started to rehab WW1 craftsman bungalows that I ran into all the "modern" ways to rebuild -- this was in the late 80's. I'm not against modern building materials or modern methods -- but some don't make much sense.



Caulk being at the top of the list.



I'm also old enough now (50') to see how these project age -- I now own my parents original house .. so that interesting. You learn that vinyl siding is not forever -- same with aluminum trim caping .. and caulk.



Most modern building products really hate trapped moisture .. and caulk ends up failing and trapping moisture making the whole thing worse. Old buildings used flashing and the ability to dry. If you look at an original board and batten building -- they were faced nailed. When I last used Hardi pre-painted while trim it was a BB building -- surfaced nailed w/ stainless -- looked great.



My last project was finished trim -- there I had to countersink and fill -- used Boral and primed/painted.

Hand nailed? Stainless nails might not look terrible. Stainless finish nails would be tough because I don’t think you can keep them flush and stop moisture from getting into the trim.

I’d be worried that it would hard to get consistentnailing results with air nailer. But I guess they could be left proud and then hammered flush.

Have any photos?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro