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Hardieplank: inside corners?

madstat

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Mar 22, 2011
Messages
98
Location
Southeast Michigan
Anybody here install Hardieplank? What's your preferred method of doing the inside corners?

I've heard different methods such as using just a single 5/4 x 4"-5" corner board so one side has a more reveal. Another using two corner boards for symmetric reveal or even a single square trim piece 5/4 x 5/4 for a tighter look.

I looked at some lap siding on houses around my neighborhood and found some inside corners of lap siding that had no trim at all. This method was the most aesthetically pleasing to me but obviously requires beveling the end of siding at the inside corner. It is not a documented installation method from James Hardie's instructions but has anyone done it with success? Any tips (perhaps photos?) are most welcome.

Madstat
 
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cowboyjosh

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Mar 11, 2010
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1,066
Im a builder so whatever is the cheapest, fastest, and will last indefinitely and not cause problems for the homeowners who own the house during the life of the product (50+ years).
 

Duff

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Apr 12, 2005
Messages
9
Location
London, Ontario
I am not an installer but happen to sell James Hardie at work. I work for a lumber and building supply store. I have always seen it done using a 4" and 5" piece in the corner. When you put the 5" and 4" together it makes for an equal 4" reveal. If you use two 4" pieces that will leave a 3" reveal on the one side and 4" on the other.

Duff
 

billybek

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Mar 10, 2012
Messages
40
Location
Calgary
I use Hardie Plank for a small project and liked the product and the ease of installation. One of the good things about using the trim in the corner is that it will allow for some minor misalignment without being noticeable.
 

djkeev

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Feb 8, 2012
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1,223
Location
North Western New Jersey
Inside corner or outside corner?

For an inside corner 5/4 x 5/4 Azek
For an outside corner I'd use 5/4 Azek but rip one down an inch or mitre the outside coner. I believe Azek makes a preformed outside 90.

With the cement siding, you don't want wood corners that will rot away, Azek is your answer albeit not cheap. Then again, cement siding isn't cheap either!

Dave
 

djkeev

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Feb 8, 2012
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Location
North Western New Jersey


The trouble with this product, as is the trouble with vinyl and aluminum siding is that the product is full of literal holes! In this age of Stink bugs and lady bug invasion, you do NOT wants cracks or gaps into your home! You want a quality siding product, wood, cementous, etc, that had tight caulked joints. Same thing with the soffit and fascia, you do NOT want all the little nooks and crannies and openings that aluminum and vinyl produce.

Are you overrun with Stink Bugs and Lady bugs in your home? I'll almost bet money that your home has vinyl or aluminum siding / soffit materials on it.

No gaps = no entry points = non Stink Bug invasion


Oh, if you are wondering, NO! You cannot caulk vinyl or aluminum to fill the gaps, the product by design needs them to function as designed. Too much expansion and contraction going on.

Ever read how to PROPERLY install vinyl siding? You've got to water proof the house before hand and then install the siding! How many jobs have you ever seen done properly? I've been in and around the industry for decades, I've seen a grand total of zero! Odds are high that your home wrapped in vinyl is NOT water proof and the day is coming where it will rot from the outside sheathing in.

Dave
BTW, I'm not a fan of vinyl and have not and will not install it.
 
Last edited:

Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
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17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
If you like the look of no trim on the inside corners, then do it to your liking. As you go up run the right side into the corner and **** the left piece to it. Do the opposite each course. It really shouldn't be any harder than fitting between 2 pieces of trim.

I would like to see this on the OS corners too, but it doesn't work so well to leave ends exposed. They do make metal cap ends for some siding for the OS corners.
Try Simplicity Tools no. 199 corner cap.
 
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Norcal

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Mar 16, 2008
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13,752
Dave
BTW, I'm not a fan of vinyl and have not and will not install it.

Best thing for a structure with vinyl siding is to call the fire dept. & have a practice burn as a empty lot would be a major improvement over vinyl.:D
 
OP
M

madstat

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Joined
Mar 22, 2011
Messages
98
Location
Southeast Michigan
I certainly would like the no-trim look but I'm mostly concerned about expansion (hardieplank says to leave 1/8" gap at corners and caulk with elastomeric caulk). The no trim version is not documented in the hardieplank instructions and I'm wondering if there are reasons for this.

Zeke: I tried a little test run and I couldn't straightforward "weave" an inside corner, this is because of the lap over the lower course creates an offset and thus an even joint required cutting a small rabbet in the bottom. I'm not an installer, for me the few boards I did were a PIA because the fiber cement is so brittle, I have to be very careful no to crack the end. I think I'm just gong to go with the 5/4x5/4 square trim piece, it will be much faster and at the end of the day the only person who will look at it at moan in distain will be myself.
 
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Duckfarmer27

Active member
Joined
Aug 28, 2005
Messages
41
Location
NY
I used some of the Tamlyn aluminum products when I resided my house last fall.
http://tamlyn.com/colorplusflashing/insidecorner.html
is the inside corner method I used. Matches the color exactly and pretty much looks like a 1 X 1 but goes up quick. Also got coil stock from them and counter flashing for where I have lower roofs. And use their 'flash plank' for all **** joints.

I would suggest using Azek (or comparible - mine were made by Trex) one piece outside corners, paint to match before you put up. Much better than doing the two piece Hardie method that always leaves a seam, harder to work with.

At least that is what has worked well here - upstate NY.

Dale
 

wnstwolf

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Joined
Nov 7, 2007
Messages
837
Location
New York and PA
We used the 5"x5" corner boards from hardi for the inside and outside corvers. Yes you have an un equal length due to the overlap but after trying to cut a filler somewaht straight filling the seam and all that it was just not going to work. Not the best pick but you get the idea. First time ever using this type of produce and loved it except for the fact that it was a three man job. Any flex and it snaps. most effecient install for amatures (me) was to use three people..
 

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JimVonBaden

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Dec 2, 2011
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15,716
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Northern Virginia
I used some of the Tamlyn aluminum products when I resided my house last fall.
http://tamlyn.com/colorplusflashing/insidecorner.html
is the inside corner method I used. Matches the color exactly and pretty much looks like a 1 X 1 but goes up quick. Also got coil stock from them and counter flashing for where I have lower roofs. And use their 'flash plank' for all **** joints.

I would suggest using Azek (or comparible - mine were made by Trex) one piece outside corners, paint to match before you put up. Much better than doing the two piece Hardie method that always leaves a seam, harder to work with.

At least that is what has worked well here - upstate NY.

Dale

id-ic.jpg


I like this idea. Any downsides to it?

Jim :cool:
 
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