To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Hardwire? Receptacle? What do you think?

notquitegto

Active member
Joined
Aug 20, 2009
Messages
36
Thanks for your patience. I've been reading the posts here for a couple of months and this site has been extremely helpful in a number of ways. I am about to begin wiring my 20x25 garage this weekend and this is my plan... I need input. I have 100A service in the garage.

East Wall-
5 Receptacles 12/20A
1 240 10/30A for light welding.
West Wall-
7 Receptacles (workbench area) 12/20A
1 receptacle window AC unit 12/20A
1 240V 10/30A for Air compressor

Does that sound right? Or does anyone have a suggestion?

Outside lights are run off house circuit

Here is my big question. My plan is to run either 6 8' T8 fluorescents or 9-12 4' T8's.

I want to run three rows with a switch for each row to control the zones. Now, I know many of the lights I've looked at are corded. Should I hardwire, or should I run receptacles on the ceiling? I realize fixtures and ballasts sometimes do cr*p out. However, then I have cords on my ceiling. Or, should I hard wire? What are the opinions out there? Please let me know if I need to post more info!

Thanks,
Mike in Northern Illinois
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Falcon67

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
One general outlet every 4' or so is pretty handy. Use a GFCI for #1 in a run to protect the rest. Trust me - where ever you skip a spot or wall area for an outlet, sooner or later it'll be "why did I not...". ;) 3 or 4 general purpose plug runs should do.

On the lights - I did the hard wire and it is a neater installation IMHO but a lot more work. The lights have been very reliable and there have been very few ballast changes over the last 10 years. But putting a plug up there has it's benefits - you can sure swap out a fixture faster and fixtures are cheaper than replacement ballasts. Cords - thats why they make tie-wraps and smaller thread in hooks. On the new T8s I install to replace the old T12s, I'm going back with the hard wire since it's already there but I am leaving the pull chains so I can turn off individuals I'm not using. Flexible - can light the perimeter, just over the lathe, a whole section, etc.
 

Charles (in GA)

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
Outside lights are run off house circuit

Sounds like a detached garage. I do not think code will allow you to have power from the house supplying the lights, and power from the building supplying everything else. If the outside lights are mounted on the building, then the lights need to be powered from that building.

Code does allow for a single circuit to supply lights and receptacle on a detached outbuilding when there is no other power to that building.

Charles
 

mrb

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 31, 2008
Messages
3,734
Sounds like a detached garage. I do not think code will allow you to have power from the house supplying the lights, and power from the building supplying everything else. If the outside lights are mounted on the building, then the lights need to be powered from that building.

Code does allow for a single circuit to supply lights and receptacle on a detached outbuilding when there is no other power to that building.

Charles

there are a few exceptions to that rule, for example if the lights on the detached garage are switched from the house.
 
OP
N

notquitegto

Active member
Joined
Aug 20, 2009
Messages
36
Sorry, for not giving the full picture. It is an attached garage. I ran 100A service to it because there was no other way of providing my power needs in the garage. The outside lights run off of a foyer circuit in the house and operated by three-ways in the foyer and the garage. I inteded to leave it that way because the wall that connects the garage to the house is finished.

Mike
 

Falcon67

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
I'm in "violation" of that rule too - there is a security light on the side of the house powered by the shop because it was easier run a little wire overhead to there and control it with the others. The switch in the shop controls all security lights on that side of the property. I'd have to be ultra convinced there was some immediate hazard or issue with it. I'm not excited about crawling up into the very small space -that part of the house attic is virtually inacessable- where the back side of that light hangs just to run a 14ga wire off to a switch in the house.
 

Keep

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
1,398
Location
Oshawa, Ontario
I just finished wiring up (and passing final inspection WOOHOO) my garage.

I ran 100amps with one 50 amp/220 welding circuit, one 20 amp/220 compressor circuit and then two 15amp/110 circuits for receptacles.

I ran 12/2 in case I wanted to up to 20 amp/110 at a later date.

For each receptacle box I ran two circuits in each box, so 4 plugs on 2 circuits, I did this for the whole run. I then tapped off the end run with 14ga for 2 8 foot fluorescent lights on a combo receptacle/switch.

To answer your question I would hard wire the lights.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Charles (in GA)

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
For each receptacle box I ran two circuits in each box, so 4 plugs on 2 circuits, I did this for the whole run. I then tapped off the end run with 14ga for 2 8 foot fluorescent lights on a combo receptacle/switch.

Do I understand you correctly that you tapped the lighting off the receptacle circuit? and that you used 12 for the receptacles and then switched to 14 for the lighting? and that you are using a 15 amp breaker? (implied from the statement "in case I wanted to up to 20 amp/110 at a later date")

This is fine, but you cannot "up to 20 amp" later on, because you have 14 gauge wire in the circuit. Given that the breakers are the same price (15 amp vs 20 amp), why would you not just use 12 gauge for the lighting and install a 20 amp breaker in the beginning?

Charles
 

Keep

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
1,398
Location
Oshawa, Ontario
Do I understand you correctly that you tapped the lighting off the receptacle circuit? and that you used 12 for the receptacles and then switched to 14 for the lighting? and that you are using a 15 amp breaker? (implied from the statement "in case I wanted to up to 20 amp/110 at a later date")

This is fine, but you cannot "up to 20 amp" later on, because you have 14 gauge wire in the circuit. Given that the breakers are the same price (15 amp vs 20 amp), why would you not just use 12 gauge for the lighting and install a 20 amp breaker in the beginning?

Charles

Yeah if I upped to 20amps it would only be for one circuit. I understand that I cannot up the light circuit to 20amps. The lights were added as an after thought. The original plan was to run a totally separate circuit for the lights, but it was determined that it was not needed and running a straight 6ft piece of conduit and wire was easier then a 25 foot run of conduit with bends and other concerns.

As for why I didn't do it right off the bat....well I dunno.
With the lights being at the "end of the run" of wire it would be simple to swap out the 14 for 12.
 

Dragster Racer

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2008
Messages
1,891
Location
Morrison, IL
I ran recepticles. I don't know that it is any easier or faster, but if I have to replace a light, it's quick. I zip tied the excess wire. Also, if you want to turn off a light for some reason, you can unplug it. That's nice in the summer because you can turn off the ones above the garage door if they aren't wired on a separate circuit.
 

BetterDays

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 26, 2005
Messages
2,943
Location
Ohio
I ran recepticles. I don't know that it is any easier or faster, but if I have to replace a light, it's quick. I zip tied the excess wire. Also, if you want to turn off a light for some reason, you can unplug it. That's nice in the summer because you can turn off the ones above the garage door if they aren't wired on a separate circuit.


Same here.

I am actually going to redo my wiring in the garage and place the lights on 2 or 3 switches.
 

Keep

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
1,398
Location
Oshawa, Ontario
I ran recepticles. Also, if you want to turn off a light for some reason, you can unplug it. That's nice in the summer because you can turn off the ones above the garage door if they aren't wired on a separate circuit.

That makes sense.

We only get a about week of summer up here so my door is hardly ever open...lol
 

tcianci

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
4,242
Location
Walpole, Ma
I ran the recepticles but I shortened all the cords on the lights so there is a short, neat pigtail to plug into the outlets. Whole new fixtures are cheaper than ballasts in a lot if cases, I'm treatnig these as throw-aways. I can swap out a fixture a lot faster than I can swap a ballast.
 

Attachments

  • P1010043.jpg
    P1010043.jpg
    122.3 KB · Views: 35
OP
N

notquitegto

Active member
Joined
Aug 20, 2009
Messages
36
Thanks for all your help. I think I'm actually going to go with a combination of both since I wanted to have a few receptacles accessible in the ceiling. You input was very helpful!!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom