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hardwood flooring and sub flooring

billconner

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Jul 20, 2021
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6,971
Location
Thousand Islands NYS
Looking ahead to fall and continuing conversion of garage to living space.

My current plan is from 25+ year old slab which I suspect may be insulated, at least by icf stem walls if not foam under it: 10 mil poly; 2x4 sleepers 19.2" on center, cedar shake shimmed to level; 1 1/2" XPS between sleepers; 3/4" t&g ply, red rosin paper, t&g hardwood - thinking pre finished walnut.

I plan to let sleepers float - no anchors - and just glue and screw subfloor to them to hold in place. (I've specified that for a lot of stage floors and no issues.) No partitions sit on it.

Ply or OSB?

red rosin paper or other? (interesting article on that: https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/in...it's still commonly used,It cuts down on dust)

Other?
 
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larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
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19,562
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Northern Virginia
At 19.2” OC we use T&G subfloor similar to Advantech. You won’t need the weather protection Advantech offers since you are under roof already.

Blasphemy on converting a garage to living space! This is GJ after all! 😉🤣

Our flooring guys used red Rosen paper, as well as what looked like roofing paper but had a logo stating for hardwood.
 

duneslider

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Jan 20, 2013
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2,268
Location
Riverton, Utah
What's your plan to keep the shims under the sleepers if you aren't attaching them to the floor?

No need for the rosin paper if you are putting poly under it all. It isn't gonna do anything but get in the way.
 
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B

billconner

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Jul 20, 2021
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Location
Thousand Islands NYS
Glue, or maybe flip them and staple.

I may skip the rosin paper but it does make install a little easier. The pieces of flooring slide around nice.

May look at a load of rough dawn and dried cherry today. Not sure I'm up to the milling and screwing and plugging - but the price is unbeatable. History to - it's from the farm my great grand father settled in 1840s.
 
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jar944

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Jul 26, 2010
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Location
Northern VA
May look at a load of rough dawn and dried cherry today. Not sure I'm up to the milling and screwing and plugging - but the price is unbeatable. History to - it's from the farm my great grand father settled in 1840s.

Assume 50% waste, and the need for mutiple finished widths to get maximum yield. Final sizing should be on a shaper with outboard fence and you need to ensure everything is at the same moisture content. Power feeder on the shaper is a must there. You will need a set of flooring knives in some corrugated heads. Neil at MtTool just made a set of flooring knives for a someone I know.

If the intention is not tongue and groove ignore what I posted.
 

jkuro

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Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
552
Bill you may want to consider a subfloor something like this:


There are other products designed for basement applications that will work also.
 

duneslider

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Jan 20, 2013
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2,268
Location
Riverton, Utah
I actually like dricore but in Bill's case, he is doing this in a garage so I assume the floor slopes and he wants to level it out.

Growing up, we added a big 2 car onto our house and then turned the single car into a dining room but we framed it to the same level as the house/kitchen.

We live in a dry climate (desert climate) and didn't put plastic down or anything and had no moisture issues but that worked in our case and not gonna work well in wetter areas.

Rough sawn cherry from the family farm sounds cool but not for the floor...

Maybe use the cherry for trim, cabinets, furniture, etc.

Whenever we did floors with sleepers we would level and then shoot them down with a powder actuated gun. These were usually for basketball courts and the concrete was usually pretty flat already and didn't need much if any shimming.
 

jar944

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Jul 26, 2010
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Location
Northern VA
Looking into milling flooring doesn't excite me.

Not a project I would want to do. Commercial flooring is just to inexpensive comparatively.


 
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