Harley and Torque Wrenches

[bradahj]

Hello All,
I'm new to the board.....been lurking, but decided to join to glean advice and suggestions.

My first issue that I'm hoping someone can help me with is getting good torque wrenches to use for working on my Harley Sportster. In looking through the manual some torque settings are in in/lbs while other are in ft/lbs.

I like the split beam (PI), but realize I'll probably have to go with a micrometer to get into the lower in/lb.....and should I got 1/4 or 3/8 on this lower end.

Thanks for any tips, advice, and/or suggestions.

 

[metaleltr]

Honestly I think you will be best to have a 3/8 and a 1/2 drive. Gearwrench digitals are made in the usa and work well, I love them.

 

[0311Grunt]

Honestly,

For basic maintenance on my cars and bikes - I've been happy with the Harbor Freight (HF) torque wrenches.

They come in 1/4 (in/lbs) 3/8 (ft/lbs) and 1/2 (ft/lbs). You can get them with their regular coupon for $9.99 a piece and they are supposedly rated to +/- 4%. Like I said, if youre not using them for areospace applications, you should be just fine with HF torque wrenches. Just remember to store them unlocked at 0.

 

[6-Speed]

Nothing wrong with a micrometer type, but you need to reduce the torque setting to minimum after use ... CDI makes some good ones. You don't have to do this for a split-beam type. A 25 to 250 in-lb wrench is a good range for a 3/8" drive calibrated in in-lb.

 

[Turbo_Prop]

Hello All,
I'm new to the board.....been lurking, but decided to join to glean advice and suggestions.

My first issue that I'm hoping someone can help me with is getting good torque wrenches to use for working on my Harley Sportster. In looking through the manual some torque settings are in in/lbs while other are in ft/lbs.

I like the split beam (PI), but realize I'll probably have to go with a micrometer to get into the lower in/lb.....and should I got 1/4 or 3/8 on this lower end.

Thanks for any tips, advice, and/or suggestions.

Aside from the odd job around the house, I use my tools almost exclusively on Harleys. For years I had a simple 3/8" drive beam from sears and it served me well in my iron and shovel head years. Sometime, maybe ten years ago I picked up a 3/8" clicker and thought I was high tech, now I have a Matco 1/4" drive clicker, the same old Sears 3/8" clicker and a new Matco 1/2" drive clicker. This year I have built three bikes from bare frames and split engine cases, to include a land-speed bike for Bonneville.

Honestly, I used the 1/2" drive wrench on the flywheels and primary drive. The bulk of the torquing was done with the 1/4" drive. Most of the fasteners on a harley seem to be 3/16" socket cap bolts.

Those old ironheads, shovel heads and evos (to include sportsters) were not very critical for torque specs. Working on harleys, if I could only have one torque wrench it would be in the range of 5-75 ft pounds, 3/8 drive and would be marked for inch and ft pounds.

Best of luck with the bike.

 

[PSYKO_Inc]

Just gonna throw this out there, don't get thrown off by the in/lbs and ft/lbs measurements. If it's in in/lbs you can divide by 12 to get ft/lbs, and you can multiply by 12 to convert ft/lbs to in/lbs. From there you can use any torque wrench that will work with that torque value. Also you can tell if something seems way off that you might be using the wrong units, for example you'll never see a 3/8" bolt that will hold 240 ft/lbs, but 240 in/lbs would be in the ballpark (20 ft/lbs).

 

[bradahj]

Thanks for the advice so far.............
Turbo_Prop.... I've read that the 1/4" drive torque wrenches are better than 3/8 as you are less likely to overtighten? Would you say that is true? The Precision Instruments ones I looked at go from 30-200 in/lb. Both wrenches have the same exact specs except for the drive head.

Another guy said to stay away fro 1/4 and that I'd get more use out of 3/8.

Gearwrench has one that supposedly has a slender head to fit into tight spaces.........??? So many choices.
http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/t...wrench/stockdetails.jsp?view=stock&part=85050

 

[Turbo_Prop]

Again, if I could only have one it would be a 3/8" drive unit. I used to use 3/8" drive almost exclusively for everything. I don't know, maybe ten years ago I started using 1/4" drive stuff after seeing a local indi use them. Most of the stuff on a harley is small, and 1/4 inch is ideal.

As for doing to conversion from inches to foot pounds, yes, you can do the math. But when a spec is called out as 90 inch pounds, the 1/4" drive wrench is more accurate as it is in the middle of it's range. 90 inch pounds on a typical 3/8" wrench is right at the bottom. Not good.

 

[dirtmister16]

personally i work on a lot of small engines, and don't use the torque wrench much. but i have a 3/8" beam type inch pounds wrench for heads and stuff like that. i have a 1/2" food pounds beam type for the bigger stuff, but rarely used for small engine work.

i also have a 1/2" snap on clicker, but that only gets used for wheels and such.


i like beam style as they are quick and accurate. i have a 1/4" in pounds(cheap mit thing) but i was always weary of it cuz i snapped a head bolt once trying to get the right torque. so thats why i prefer a beam wrench.

 

[bradahj]

As I already have access to a 25-120 ft/lb model......what are thoughts on this for the lower end stuff....

http://www.protorquetools.com/prod-...rque_wrench_dual_scale_38_dr_0-300_in_lbs.htm

 

[964haus]

Going through the same thing with my KTM - likely going the route of 2 torque wrenches. One for the really small stuff and another for all the rest....

m.

 

[bradahj]

I found this one for the smaller stuff..... from 0-50 ft./lb (or 0-600 in/lb).

http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-d2f600hm.aspx

Any downsides or pros going with dial-type?

 

[peropett]

As for doing to conversion from inches to foot pounds

 

[Turbo_Prop]

I found this one for the smaller stuff..... from 0-50 ft./lb (or 0-600 in/lb).

http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-d2f600hm.aspx

Any downsides or pros going with dial-type?

I used to have easy access to a torque wrench calibration tester/calibration machine thing. Was pretty easy to get into the room and simply put the wrench on the machine. Seemed like the dial wrenches were always more accurate over a wider range of torque settings.

Back to the Harley thing. Harley will typically call out a torque range, ie 20-30 ft pounds. Even the most inaccurate torque wrench set to the middle of that range will almost always torque the bolt to within the spec. No need to get **** here, just a harley.

 

[andywander]

Please use correct terminology. in/lb means "inches per pound", a unit that is not used for anything(AFAIK). Correct terminology is inch-lb or "inch pound".

It might not matter to you, until the day you try to use them in an equation.....

 

[Harley94]

12 inch pounds = 1 foot pound.
I have a 1/4 " and 1/2 " clicker torque wrenches. When you get to the bottom torque ranges in ft # some clickers aren't all that accurate. That's why I keep an inch # around. Of course it depends on how accurate YOU want the torque to be also. I don't bother with the 3/8 drive, I'll use an adapter on my 1/2"

 

[P_I_Torque]

I found this one for the smaller stuff..... from 0-50 ft./lb (or 0-600 in/lb).

http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-d2f600hm.aspx

Any downsides or pros going with dial-type?

Nice tool you're looking at there

The Dial Type is one of my personal favorites. They are extremely accurate and friction free operation (means no wearing of any internal components = will last forever and calibration will hold almost equally as long). A real nice thing I enjoy when using the dial type, which could also be said for digital, is you get to see real time the torque you are applying. I prefer the dial over digital, but that's another conversation. With use of the memory needle, even if you can't see the dial you are able to achieve accurate torque values. They look delicate, but they'll stand up to more abuse than a clicker... maybe hard to believe. Not many downsides. It's an older style torque wrench, and people tend to gravitate to "newer" technology but it's a time tested design my grandfather invented and patented nearly 75 years ago.

Good luck with your shopping

 

[Treeman]

Wonderful to have you here, P I Torque! Please come back often and share your expertise.

Important notes for the original poster:

- Keep in mind that torque wrenches are only calibrated to be accurate down to 20% of their full scale. I.E., a 600 in. lb. wrench is good down to 120 in. lb. and a 100 ft. lb. wrench is calibrated accurate down to 20 ft. lb.. But, the scale might go down lower.

-Depending on what you use your wrenches on, you almost need a minimum of 3 wrenches to cover all your needs.

- Determining torque through a turning wrench can be quite inaccurate due to all the variables (fastener condition, etc.). The engineering forums often cite +/- 30% torque values as the common possible spread. So, don't get too wrapped up in the accuracy thing. And, by all means, understand the concepts of torque, applying torque, and proper procedures to lessen the variables.

So many people believe that using a $200+ wrench automatically results in accurate torque. The old rule "garbage in, garbage out" really applies here, regardless of the wrench.

 

[bradahj]

I'm gravitating toward the dial type myself........ but am wondering what range I should go with. CDI has ranges from 0-300 or 0-600, while PI doesn't start at "0" for theirs.

I currently have a 20-120 foot pound model.

 

[P_I_Torque]

I'm gravitating toward the dial type myself........ but am wondering what range I should go with. CDI has ranges from 0-300 or 0-600, while PI doesn't start at "0" for theirs.

I currently have a 20-120 foot pound model.

All of our Dial Type torque wrenches start at 0 and read to full scale. Although, on our website we only show the guaranteed accurate range which is 20% of full scale, to full scale... Treeman touched on that in his post... good stuff.

This is our attempt to not mislead customers into thinking they can use the wrench at 0 (zero) at the guaranteed accuracy. However, using a torque wrench in the lower 20% of it's scale is better than blindly tightening and feeling the required torque value

 

[Steinmetz]

Nice tool you're looking at there

The Dial Type is one of my personal favorites. They are extremely accurate and friction free operation (means no wearing of any internal components = will last forever and calibration will hold almost equally as long). A real nice thing I enjoy when using the dial type, which could also be said for digital, is you get to see real time the torque you are applying. I prefer the dial over digital, but that's another conversation. With use of the memory needle, even if you can't see the dial you are able to achieve accurate torque values. They look delicate, but they'll stand up to more abuse than a clicker... maybe hard to believe. Not many downsides. It's an older style torque wrench, and people tend to gravitate to "newer" technology but it's a time tested design my grandfather invented and patented nearly 75 years ago.

Good luck with your shopping

Greetings. I am perhaps the only patent attorney in world that owns more than two dozen torque wrenches of all kinds, including those you manufacture. You have a very fine product.
I too tend to prefer dial-type torque wrenches, including the Snap On Torqometer, which is very accurate and virtually indestructible. The newer CDI wrenches are not nearly as good, particularly with regard to build quality.
In terms of conventional 'clickers', the old TCI/Utica clickers were probably the best value for the buck. Sturtevant Richmont is excellent, but rather pricey.
I tend to gravitate to the tapered beam Sturtevant wrenches when I can use one, because they are accurate and repeatable. I've never found one that was outside of 2%, provided that the beam attachment was intact.

 

[ezriderga]

I have a '97 FXSTC and believe me I'm going to use a torque wrench or torque screwdriver when I'm working on it. Call me ****, OCD or whatever, I take too much pride in my work and in my bike not to.

Here are a few of the torquing devices in my shop. Craftsman 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch ft-pounds and Husky 1/4 inch in inch-pounds. I also use the inch-pounds screwdrivers as well.

To the OP, I suggest you always use some type of Torque wrench/screwdriver when working on your Sportster. You'll be glad you did.

 

[matt1977]

Nice tool you're looking at there

The Dial Type is one of my personal favorites. They are extremely accurate and friction free operation (means no wearing of any internal components = will last forever and calibration will hold almost equally as long). A real nice thing I enjoy when using the dial type, which could also be said for digital, is you get to see real time the torque you are applying. I prefer the dial over digital, but that's another conversation. With use of the memory needle, even if you can't see the dial you are able to achieve accurate torque values. They look delicate, but they'll stand up to more abuse than a clicker... maybe hard to believe. Not many downsides. It's an older style torque wrench, and people tend to gravitate to "newer" technology but it's a time tested design my grandfather invented and patented nearly 75 years ago.

Good luck with your shopping

It's great to see PI on here, much appreciated. I just ordered myself a D2F25F after seeing how many good reviews of PI torque wrenches there were on here. Hopefully it will last a lifetime

 

[bochnak]

I have the HF torque wrenches in 1/4, 3/8, & 1/2. Bought them all for 9.99-12ea.

If clearance isn't an issue, I select drive size that will put the specified torque in the middle of the wrenches range.

 

[ezriderga]

I have the HF torque wrenches in 1/4, 3/8, & 1/2. Bought them all for 9.99-12ea.

If clearance isn't an issue, I select drive size that will put the specified torque in the middle of the wrenches range.

That's good advice. I might add that you should store your torque wrenches at the lowest setting.

 

[bochnak]

That's good advice. I might add that you should store your torque wrenches at the lowest setting.

Yes, I store them at the lowest setting.

 

[bradahj]

Harbor Freight for $10? Then a PI or CDI for $150.00? Is this a "you get what you pay for?" OR A "You're paying for the name?"

 

[0311Grunt]

Harbor Freight for $10? Then a PI or CDI for $150.00? Is this a "you get what you pay for?" OR A "You're paying for the name?"

Both.

PI has a +/- 2% margin of error. Truly a fine tool and worth the money if you need the precision.

HF has a +/- 4% margin of error. So at 25 ft/lbs your variance can be anywhere from approximately 24-26 ft/lbs. At 100 ft/lbs it can be anywhere from 96 -104 ft/lbs. The PI wrench would be similar at 25 ft/lbs but have a variance of 98 - 102 ft/lbs.

Does the 2x variance on HF wrenches make a difference? If you're torquing the lug nuts on your Accord, most likely not. If you're torquing nuts on a high performance aircraft, maybe you wanna spring for the more precise wrench.

 

[0311Grunt]

I have the HF torque wrenches in 1/4, 3/8, & 1/2. Bought them all for 9.99-12ea.

If clearance isn't an issue, I select drive size that will put the specified torque in the middle of the wrenches range.

Same boat as you. I have all 3 and use them relatively frequently. They are all store a 0 when not in use.

 

[bradahj]

HF review on their site are "hit or miss"....... guess that is part of the deal when prices are so cheap.........

 

[6-Speed]

HF review on their site are "hit or miss"....... guess that is part of the deal when prices are so cheap.........

You're right. I have purchased two HF torque wrenches; one works well and the other failed right out of the box (could not adjust torque). My other torque wrenches are Craftsman, CDI and PI; they all work well.