Has anyone ever "cut n shut" a tool box before?

[Matt_C]

Still want more storage in my van - I have a KRA59 which has been awesome for the last ten years, but I need to expand, however I only have limited space in which to do it. I've already had to remove the lid and front flap from the box as there is nowhere near the room to use it, and I could really do with 2 or three more drawers. Natural next step is a step up box to go under it, but there's the problem - they are 25cm (or so) tall, and I only have about 17/18cm space to play with!

I did ponder going for one of the 8-drawer (26" wide) roll cabs, removing the casters, and throwing that in the van, but I'd have to lose one of my racking shelves, plus they are too deep - 50cm for the roll cab, and I only have 45/46cm depth between the racking and the door.

So thinking about it, what I need is a mid box, but on steroids. I love the drawer layout of my box, but could really do with at least two more drawers, or maybe three. I don't need the top space, and could even do away with the lift out tray, and decant those tools into the extra drawer space.

So I had a measure up - like I said, I have about 17ish cm to play in between the top of my top most drawers, and the bottom of the racking shelf. Then I measured from the bottom of my KRA (as it would sit on the floor, including the base part) and the deep (3") and first shallow (1.5") drawer - 16cm!

So I was wondering - would it be possible, to get a KRA box, cut off the bottom inline with the top of the second from bottom drawer, and cut off the top of my box, inline with the top of the first row of drawers (obviously I'd need to keep the flat top because the split drawers hang from it) - then turn the part I cut from the bottom of the donor box upside down, and weld it to the top of my box. Then simply remove the runner guides and place where need be for the two different drawers (this could easily be done with riveting - doesn't need to be spot welded)

Obviously this is just a crude mock up, but something like this;

Now I'm no welder, nor a metal cutter, so I'd need to get someone to do the cutting and welding. Is this likely to be at all possible, or would welding it completely distort and fubar the metal, making it unusable, and would the whole thing be strong enough to take life in a bumpy, jolty van? (one of the things I love the most about my KRA is how robust and tough it is - it's lived in my various vans - with lid, sans lid - for ten years and apart from one drawer runner spot weld failing, it's been rock solid and true)

 

[Matt_C]

As it is now in my van -

 

[zkling]

My opinion? a.) It would not be worth it. b.) It would be pretty sad to hack up those boxes like that. c.) When you do cut them, you will loose a good bit of torsional stiff and overall structural integrity of both boxes. The frames are box walled for rigidity. Those middle boxes are not built near as well as that edition KRA59.

I would have to measure, but I don't think the middle box drawers are the same width as on the KRA59. Meaning the slide gap would have to be compensated for. :

 

[Matt_C]

Sorry, I think you've misunderstood me. I would be chopping two KRA59's, not a KRA59 and a mid box. You're right, they have different width drawers.

Whilst it might be sad to us enthusiasts to chop them, I'm looking for the perfect (or near as perfect as poss) box, so there's a reason to my madness - it's not just for fun. My prime concern is strength and rigidity, not so much whether it'd be worth it or not (because what's worth something to some, isn't worth anything to others). You can see the dead space above my box in my van set up - I'm still having to use the top section, and tray, as storage for tools, and with the small gap there is for access, it's not the easiest way to efficiently use the space, or the tools. Adding in more drawers would be much more beneficial. My only grip is that the 3" bottom drawer isn't deep enough to house the lift out tote tray - which is a shame.

 

[Provincial]

Talk to your Snap On salesman about finding a damaged box to salvage. Sometimes a box is dropped or bent and some of the drawers and slides are salvageable. You could use them with some square tubing and sheet steel to fabricate a unit to put under your current box. It would be expensive in labor, but due to your space limitations, expense is going to be high any way you do it.

Also, inquire at places that sell service bodies. The manufacturers often offer drawer units to use in the compartments. One of the firms may offer drawers that can be made to fit. I have a service body that has drawers with ball-bearing slides and latch bolts to keep them closed. It is a Royal body.

 

[Matt_C]

And also - if I did do it, I could easily be tempted to paint the whole thing yellow after it's done!

 

[Matt_C]

Talk to your Snap On salesman about finding a damaged box to salvage. Sometimes a box is dropped or bent and some of the drawers and slides are salvageable. You could use them with some square tubing and sheet steel to fabricate a unit to put under your current box. It would be expensive in labor, but due to your space limitations, expense is going to be high any way you do it.

Also, inquire at places that sell service bodies. The manufacturers often offer drawer units to use in the compartments. One of the firms may offer drawers that can be made to fit. I have a service body that has drawers with ball-bearing slides and latch bolts to keep them closed. It is a Royal body.

One thing I'd love is latch drawers - I'm insanely jealous of the Craftsman Griplatch system!

 

[Packard V8]

It's just sheet metal. Obviously what you propose can be done and made to look right, given enough skill and hours.

Cutting is no problem. A die grinder will produce perfectly straight edges if the user is skilled and patient.

If the two parts were prepped with the paint removed in the area to be welded, a good welder with a TIG could have them together in a few minutes.

Bit of grinding, primer, paint and no one sees the sides of the box in your van anyway.

Let us see the finished product.

jack vines

 

[Outlawmws]

Try a Kennedy Roller. I just measured one of my older ones and it's 46 CM deep.

 

[Jere]

Sounds like a cool project to me. You can beef up the box by using sheet metal screws and angle iron ( I have used bedframe angle iron with success. It is usually found for free by apartment dumpsters especially by student housing). It can be a no weld solution or you can weld it for more strength. You can also leave some extra sheet when you cut the box to over lap the edges. Then screw the flap to the angle or whatever. In addition to no weld its also a no paint solution.



always act like the smallest lobster in the grocery store tank

 

[zkling]

Sorry, I think you've misunderstood me. I would be chopping two KRA59's, not a KRA59 and a mid box. You're right, they have different width drawers.

Whilst it might be sad to us enthusiasts to chop them, I'm looking for the perfect (or near as perfect as poss) box, so there's a reason to my madness - it's not just for fun. My prime concern is strength and rigidity, not so much whether it'd be worth it or not (because what's worth something to some, isn't worth anything to others). You can see the dead space above my box in my van set up - I'm still having to use the top section, and tray, as storage for tools, and with the small gap there is for access, it's not the easiest way to efficiently use the space, or the tools. Adding in more drawers would be much more beneficial. My only grip is that the 3" bottom drawer isn't deep enough to house the lift out tote tray - which is a shame.

Ah, my apologies. I still stand by my statements though. Without a good bit of work you will loose structural integrity by chopping them. Try Outlaw's suggestion of finding a bottom or large middle box. Even an industrial cabinet. When I say "worth it" I mean the time effort and money involved to make something that it is not compared to just purchasing or building from scratch a box specific for your application.

 

[dadsEH]

Ah, my apologies. I still stand by my statements though. Without a good bit of work you will loose structural integrity by chopping them. Try Outlaw's suggestion of finding a bottom or large middle box. Even an industrial cabinet. When I say "worth it" I mean the time effort and money involved to make something that it is not compared to just purchasing or building from scratch a box specific for your application.

Explain where your 'structural integrity' is lost.

 

[Bigplum]

It's do-able, a lot of work to make a nice job of it though,
I'd be tempted to weld up a 1"box frame and use the drawers and runners out of something else , then skin it with sheet , there's a thread on here somewhere about making a tool chest .

If it's two boxes cut'n shut , I agree its structural integrity will be compromised unless it's fully welded and braced ,given it's going to be used in a van

 

[MikeF2316]

I thought of doing this to my roller cab, but it would be way too much time and money, and first I'd need to practice on something else. I added a mid box to my roller cab, and I just checked - there's 3 1/4" between the top of the top drawer in the roller cab and the bottom of the bottom drawer in the mid box. Add in anther 3/4" and there's space for 2 2" drawers!

 

[zkling]

Explain where your 'structural integrity' is lost.

Without getting crazy into details. First and foremost, the top compartment front rail and the inner supports. They way they tie into the side channels, see where the top drawer ends and the top compartment begins on the standard box, is a transition that drastically increases structural integrity, primarily torsional stuffiness and "swaying" of the top compartment. The bottom of the box, which is what will then become the top, is not nearly as reinforced in that direction. Thus when chopping and adding the two bottom pieces together, unless one is spot on with fit up and adds additional diagonal bracing to the corners. The top will want to twist and sway due to the load held over the lowest mounting surface. In this case the floor of the van. If it was a stationary mounting in a garage or shop that would be one thing. But the constant cyclic loading and fatigue that a on the road box is given will take its toll sooner than later. I'm sorry that was really awkward to try an top out. I could explain it with my hands much easier.

IMHO it's one of those things that, could it be done? Sure, is it practical, especially if you are paying someone else to do the work? Most likely not unless all other options are eliminated.

Just my opinion, take it for what little it is worth.

 

[Matt_C]

Yeah, it's a bit of a pipe dream - the search for the "perfect" box, taking in factors such as space limitations, type and amount of tools used, etc.

Thinking it over (read : dreaming ) I'd probably want to do it like this. Start with two boxes; a KRA58, and a KRA55/4055

58;
View media item 8438
55;

Then cut and shut! Sure, I bet it's easier in thought than reality, but I'd want it to end up like this;

Forget taking the bottom of one box and putting it upside down as the top - looking at the box, and taking a cue from the mid/step-up boxes, all that would need doing is above the top line of drawers, where the "top section" starts, is trimming the upright metal down to about 3/8" above the flat metal inside the top section. This would leave a "rim" around the top, 3/8" tall. Either leave that standing, or bend it over the top, making it flat - another bend should add strength.

So, cutting the boxes up. Start with the 58 - cut all the way round the box, separating the full width drawers from the two rows of split drawers. Then, moving onto the 55, making two cuts - above the deep bottom drawer, counting three drawers up, then cut again, under the top most drawer - so you have a section with three full width drawers. Then mount the three full width drawers from the 55, between the two halves of the 58, and trim the top of the 58 about 3/8" above the top row of drawers , folding over if need be. This way, from the bottom, you'd have; deep (3") full width, 4x medium (~2") full width, then the two rows of three drawers at the top (also ~2" deep - these and the medium full width drawers are the same depth, and slightly under 2", but ~2 is easier to type).

I was thinking as far as strength went, the two square sections at the front, either side of the drawers, is hollow - so lengths of box section steel (probably 1"?) could be inserted down each one, and either rivet or weld to them, or simply use as upright "anti-twist" strengtheners. Then the walls of the box are double skinned - I don't know the space between the walls, but more box section steel could be run diagonally between the walls to add rigidity too. Then, and I'm no welder so correct me if I'm wrong, but seem welding it all up should be nice and strong?

The drawer in the top left of my mock up is a double height drawer - I don't think this exists in the same dimensions, but it would be awesome as it would enable me to put a plier rack in that drawer and stand my pliers and grips upright, making best use of the space in the drawer. This would have to be a custom made drawer (or take the two drawers, band them to join them, then cut the base out of the top one, and line it inside to "make" a double height drawer.

This would be the best layout for me, and probably be perfect. Using my maths, the total height would be within 10mm of the total height space I have in my van, meaning I wouldn't have to move any shelves in my racking. It would slot in like a glove! Working our way up, the deep drawer would be my general ****, spares, and stuff too tall/big to fit in the other drawers (such as wiper pullers, and a few other bits). 2nd bottom (~2") is my cutting drawer (saws, cut out tools, blades, cut back tools, etc), third bottom is ratchets (ratchets, sockets, extensions, adapters), fourth bottom is wrenches (two sets of, metric, spanners, allen wrenches, and I'd probably add a few other bits too since I'd have more space in this drawer. Then the last of the ~2" full width drawers would be "handled" tools (screwdrivers, picks, hooks, pry and trim tools, scrapers, and associated accessories). Moving onto the split drawers; two right side ~2" drawers - bottom one is rivet gun and rivets, top one is "hitting" things (hammers, chisels, punches). The left side double depth, as mentioned before, would be pliers and grips, and the three middle shallow drawers would be for all the small things that litter my lift out tote tray (all sorts of odd's and ends I need from time to time)

Obviously I realise this is a pipe dream, without considerable expenditure (you could pay as much as £500 just for the two boxes), plus getting someone to do the cutting and welding, plus strengthening it where needs be, then my time trying to sand all the welds smooth and flat, and then painting it to look nice.

But oh man, it'd be perrrrrrrrrfect!

 

[Matt_C]

Actually, thinking about it again - take the 58, and cut it in the middle between the full width drawers and the split drawers. Then cut the top section (above the top most drawer) off the 55, then weld the top part of the 58 to the top part of the 55. Trim down the top section of the 58 to about 3/8", and either leave it as a "rim" or fold it over and tack it down to add a bit of strength. A few cuts, but only one weld - and only two sections rather than three.

 

[Matt_C]

Actually must realised - the 58 isn't as deep as the 55/4055 (which is the same depth as the 59/4059). Sooooooo - same deal, but using a 59 instead of a 58. Which means the two top rows would be 3x ~2" drawers, then 4x full width ~2" drawers, then the bottom 3" full width. And maybe customise a couple of the split drawers to make a double depth split drawer....

There's a 55 and a 59 on eBay right now... So tempted to give this a try!

 

[Provincial]

How about sandwiching a piece of 1/8" plate between the two sections of box as you weld them together. It would tie things together and prevent "racking" of the unit as it gets taller.

 

[healing]

How about sandwiching a piece of 1/8" plate between the two sections of box as you weld them together. It would tie things together and prevent "racking" of the unit as it gets taller.

Good idea

 

[Bigplum]

Wouldn't a stack of mid sections be a easier ?

I'm thinking the costs are going to spiral unless your welder owes you big time,
It's going to be difficult to make a nice job of it, welding and cleaning up the box sections won't be fun , the side panels would be best re-skinned

I can't help but think a proper snap on road chest would be the best option , they are larger and built for mobile use , £500 would get you somewhere near one ,
Can you not alter the van layout to use the top tray?

One on eBay UK now , item number 171319968910 , down in Devon so you could have a nice weekend away too

 

[Matt_C]

How about sandwiching a piece of 1/8" plate between the two sections of box as you weld them together. It would tie things together and prevent "racking" of the unit as it gets taller.

It would naturally have one anyway. It's hard to see from a pic, as there don't seem to be any decent angle ones on the web, but if you look at the top of this box (this is a KRA60, which is essentially the same thing, slightly different drawer layout (ironically, it has the double depth split drawer I'd want) and possibly a little bit deeper - but the construction is the same)

There is already a flat piece of metal above the top of the highest drawers, with a "wall" around it that the lid hinge fixes to and the lid and front flap cover when down. This is where the lift out tote tray lives.

So what I was thinking was taking the KRA55, cutting off this "wall", either about 3/8" above the top plate and folding it over flush, or grind it right down to more or less flush, then taking the two rows of split drawers from the 59, and welding that section of box to the top of the now trimmed down 55. This would mean the flat plate is still there, keeping some rigidity between the two sections of box, and the part from the 59 also has the same steel plate above it's split drawers (which would be the very top - same thing, either cut the "wall" down and leave as a rim, fold it over, or grind it down completely

 

[Matt_C]

Wouldn't a stack of mid sections be a easier ?

I'm thinking the costs are going to spiral unless your welder owes you big time,
It's going to be difficult to make a nice job of it, welding and cleaning up the box sections won't be fun , the side panels would be best re-skinned

I can't help but think a proper snap on road chest would be the best option , they are larger and built for mobile use , £500 would get you somewhere near one ,
Can you not alter the van layout to use the top tray?

One on eBay UK now , item number 171319968910 , down in Devon so you could have a nice weekend away too

The won't unfortunately. I've done all the maths, and I won't fit three mid boxes stacked in the space I have to work in, and two boxes won't give me enough drawers - newer style mid boxes have three drawers; two shallow (that are even shallower than the shallow drawers on my current box, which won't work for me) and a 3" deep drawer at the bottom. Older ones have two 3" drawers per mid box. So I'd end up with less useable drawer space than I have now.

The key thing here for me is useable drawer space. I generally use the height in the ~2" drawers - the deeper one at the bottom I don't use the full height of for tools; it's more of a stack stuff on top of each other drawer.

The HD road chest is great, but too big for my racking. I don't have the width or depth to accommodate that box. I have 69cm between the rack uprights, and 44cm depth from back of rack to the inside of the door. Anything more won't fit. Height, I have 50cm - hence why I can't even stack two, 4 drawer, Halfords mid boxes in there (which I wouldn't really want anyway, as they aren't very deep front to back). I've altered the van lay out as much as I can go. Anything more are permanent mods, which a) I can't do (I'd get a bollocking straight away and be made to put it back) and b) I don't have the parts for anyway. I've moved the shelving around as much as it'll go - again, anything more and I either have to lose the shelf above my tool box, which I can't do as I don't have space to re-house what I keep on there, or move it up some more, which I really can't do as it's about as high as it can go and still allow me to actually get things in and out of it.

 

[Matt_C]

So I've been thinking about this some more, and trying to think out a way to simplify it so that it doesn't get too involved or whatever, and the more I look at it and think it over, the more I think it might actually be doable - and without even having to weld the boxes together.

I had a good poke round my box today in some downtime, and made the following observations

All the walls, inside and out are single skinned, with an edges bent over to give a nice finish (excluding the square "buttresses" at the front). The top section is actually a "tray" - flat plate with upturned flanges that are press welded to the sides and back. These are about 3/8" or so upturns, with the front being full height (and the edge rolled over)

The "buttresses" at either side running top to bottom have an inside diameter of about 1.5cm (5/8"). They are hollow the full height. The cavity between the inside wall and outside wall is about 1" or there a bouts (might be 30mm, which is a touch over 1" - it's kind hard to measure). The inside walls bend 90º at the top and press weld to the under side of this "tray", and bend 90º outwards at the front (with the buttresses press welding to them). So that's how it's all connected...

The drawers, that I always thought were the same depth bar the bottom drawer) are actually different. On the KRA59, the top row of split drawer, and the two full width drawers are the same depth; about 1.5". But strangely, the second row of split drawers are about 1.75" inch. Odd. But there you go.

Anyway, my plan for simplifying this is as follows.

Start with the KRA55/4055 box. Cut off the top section off - go all the way across the front, through the buttresses, round the sides and across the back. I'd say do this using the line of the 3/8" upturned part of the top "tray" , so that it all stays together. This shouldn't reduce rigidity at all, as no joins have been removed or opened.

Do exactly the same to the KRA59 box.

Then, taking the KRA59 box, make a cut a few mm (not a lot, say 4 or 5) under the first full width drawer. Cut all the way round the sides and back (there is no front here, obviously) and lift it off, and discard the lower part.

Now we have compromised structural rigidity, as the cavity between the outside and inside walls of the box have been exposed.

To combat this, I propose taking box section steel, the right diameter to fit snugly between the inner and outer walls of the sides, and simply riveting or spot-welding it in place. This will keep the cavity spacing correct, and the two walls "true". I was also thinking taking a piece of flat plate steel, ideally the same gauge the box is already made from, upturning the edges about 3/8" and using it to make a base. This can be press welded inside inner wall without affecting the drawers or slides (or it can be made larger and have the upturns on the outside of the box - doesn't really matter. The base is simply there to give it a flat base at this point, not keep it true and square - although that is a benefit of course).

So at this point, you have a lower box (with 5 full length drawers) with a simple flat top, and an upper section (3 rows of drawers; 1 full length and two rows of split drawers) with a simple flat top and simple flat bottom.

To mount them together, my plan is to forget welding - the buttresses on the lower box are open at the top (the base closes them off at the bottom). The buttresses on the upper box are open at both ends. Simply insert a length of box section steel, 5/8" OD, into the lower box's buttresses, and then lower the top box onto it, lining the 5/8" box steel into it's buttresses - basically like locator pegs. This will stop the two boxes shifting side to side and front to back independently of each other, but without having to make solid welded joins. Not really any different than sitting a top chest onto a mid box; they're still independent, but located using each other.

If I really wanted them to not flap about (up and down, since the van moves about with bumps in the road etc) all that would be needed are a couple of small self tapper screws - go in through the sides of the buttresses to lock into the inner 5/8" box steel. At the back, a small metal "strap" (say 1" long, hole at each end) could be screwed into the back edges of the box, with the screw point going into the cavity, so as not to affect the drawers.

So really, it's making 1 cut round one box, 2 cuts round the other box, and no welding at all (other than the flat base I want to put on the bottom of the top box)

The only real difficulty I see if the "rim" around the top of the lower box. As said, cut it down to the 3/8" or so bit where the top "tray" meets the outside walls. This will leave a thin, upturned edge - not good for a meeting point between the two boxes. Maybe if I got some 3/8" (or 1cm) box section steel and made a frame, that fits inside the upturned "rim", so that it's flush with the height of this rim, then the top box would have something a bit more substantial to sit on. It would add 10mm to the overall height, but I think I could swing that.

As for measurements, right now, from where I would propose to cut down the top section of my box (which *should* be the same height as a 55/4055) to the underside of the racking shelf above my box is about 17.5cm. The proposed build of the three rows of drawers, plus a bit for the flat top and bottom, should come in at 17cm. So add another cm for the frame I mentioned before, I'd only have to move my shelf up 1 hole space on my racking (which is about 10mm) so I *should* just make clearance!

This would give me so much more useable space. Going from 5 rows of drawers, to 8 rows, still retaining the two rows of split drawers (which although are limiting in my current state, they are incredibly useful as individual drawers). I think for what I need now, I could get by with two extra full length drawers, so to have three more gives me expansion room in the future.

As for cost, I think the boxes are the biggest factor. A 55/4055 just sold on ebay for £160, which is a good price to be fair for this side of the pond. It was too far for me to go collect or otherwise I might have had it. There's a good few 59's on there at the mo, in a range of prices, but I think I could easily spend £300 on two boxes. Then add another £100 to pay someone to make some cuts and a few spot/press welds, plus supplying a bit of square box section steel, etc. I reckon it could come to £500.

Expensive, yes. But there isn't a box on the market I could even buy brand new that would fit in the space I need it to, and give me that much usable space inside it that space.

Maybe not such a pipe dream after all??

 

[Bigplum]

If you could find a bit more width between the uprights,
this Bott drawer unit on eBay would suit Item 301173407232
Bott stuff is very well made and rated for mobile use

 

[healing]

Maybe it's been said in the thread all ready, but would it be easier to change your "racking" in your van. Even if you had to cut and weld your racking it would be easier fab job than trying to make a toolbox to exacting size and quality. If you changed your racking then size it for whatever toolbox you want or maybe two toolboxes? With that said if you want to cut up a box I say go for it if that is what you decide to do. But I would really consider changing your racking. It's a van after all surely you have enough room to move something?

 

[Matt_C]

Maybe I should stress again - I cannot change the racking in my van. I do not own it, I am not permitted to change it, I certainly cannot cut and/or weld it. I can't remove it, or reconfigure it. Doing any of the above would be a disciplinary offence. I'm not even supposed to move the shelving around on it, but since I haven't actually removed it, and it's fully reversible, that's a minor "annoyance" to my bosses/managers.

I am stuck with the space in which I have to play with. And that space is pretty much (H) 50cm, (W) 68/68cm (rack to rack is 70cm, but I have to allow for bolt heads that attach the shelf the box sits on) and (D) 40cm.

 

[colin39]

Maybe I should stress again - I cannot change the racking in my van. I do not own it, I am not permitted to change it, I certainly cannot cut and/or weld it. I can't remove it, or reconfigure it. Doing any of the above would be a disciplinary offence. I'm not even supposed to move the shelving around on it, but since I haven't actually removed it, and it's fully reversible, that's a minor "annoyance" to my bosses/managers.

I am stuck with the space in which I have to play with. And that space is pretty much (H) 50cm, (W) 68/68cm (rack to rack is 70cm, but I have to allow for bolt heads that attach the shelf the box sits on) and (D) 40cm.

Anybody , unless american, would think you worked for thee AA. lol.

post a pic of the inside of ya roller skate buddy

 

[Matt_C]

Haha, I'm not allowed to mention any names

Not the greatest pic, as I can't get far enough back to take a full one, but this will do for this purpose...

This is what it currently is - standard KRA59 with the lid removed. As you can see, not a lot of access to the top of the box, and the tote tray only *just* lifts out

This is the proposal;

It fills the space fully, which is fine as the top would be flat and no storage space there anyway. But it gives another three rows of drawers, taking me from 5 rows to 8 rows. I still retain the two rows of split drawers, which although are a little limiting, are actually very useful, and gives me three additional full width, standard depth drawers, and lets me keep the single deeper drawer at the bottom (which again is useful - I'd not need more than one at this depth though).

Layout wise, from the top I could still have my split drawers housing pliers, grips and pullers, rivet gun and rivets, hammers, punches and chisels, and various "quick grab" small items, decanted from my tote tray, then with the full width drawers;

1 - "handled tools" - screwdrivers, hooks, picks, scrapers, etc. Basically everything with a screwdriver type handle. Currently these are split between two split drawers and my tote tray.

2 - wrenches/spanners - two full (mostly) sets of metric (fixed and ratchet) plus a few specialty items. Currently these are split between a split drawer, the ratchet drawer, and the bottom drawer.

3 - Ratchet drawer - ratchets, sockets, extensions, adapters etc. Currently, since there's a set of wrenches taking up half the drawer, I've got my most used items in this drawer, with two other sets in moulded cases in the shelving in the back. Not ideal.

4 - Cutting drawer - same as the drawer I already have, this houses all my cutting out tools, used daily.

5 - additional space drawer. Nothing dedicated here yet, but more space = more usefulness

6 - deep drawer - everything that doesn't fit in the shallower drawers. Currently holds duplicates, spares, lesser used tools (some of which can be re-homed into the other drawers when space is free'd up), and would allow me to organise and divide this drawer up for better storage (rather than stuff piled on stuff)

With my measuring, I reckon it would fit pretty much back on in the 50cm gap I have. I'd possibly have to move the shelf above it up one notch on the racking, which is about 1-1.5cm, which isn't the end of the world (although I have moved it pretty much as high I want to go with it, but 1.5cm in the scheme of things is doable)

The above proposal, whilst expensive and time consuming, is the best way (I can see) of taking full advantage of the space I have to play with, without losing anything, shelving and storage wise) or making any permanent mods I'm not allowed to, to the racking. I wish I could squeeze another inch in on the top shelf of the racking, but that would mean cutting the rack tops off, and I can't do that.

 

[Outlawmws]

Maybe I should stress again - I cannot change the racking in my van. I do not own it, I am not permitted to change it, I certainly cannot cut and/or weld it. I can't remove it, or reconfigure it. Doing any of the above would be a disciplinary offence. I'm not even supposed to move the shelving around on it, but since I haven't actually removed it, and it's fully reversible, that's a minor "annoyance" to my bosses/managers.

I am stuck with the space in which I have to play with. And that space is pretty much (H) 50cm, (W) 68/68cm (rack to rack is 70cm, but I have to allow for bolt heads that attach the shelf the box sits on) and (D) 40cm.

If they are going to be that un-accomidatinbg maybe they should provide a ****** toolbox...

Have you broached the topic, or don't they allow reasonable questions?

 

[Outlawmws]

have you looked into the Montezuma tool box lineup? maybe a different approach will work heck the concept is so simple you could build something like this yourself pretty easily...

http://www.strictlytoolboxes.com/montezuma-toolbox.html?gclid=CMCby4HLqb4CFY17fgodXWgAOA

 

[Matt_C]

If they are going to be that un-accomidatinbg maybe they should provide a ****** toolbox...

Have you broached the topic, or don't they allow reasonable questions?

They do provide a tool box - it's a pathetic, plastic, "lift lid" tool box, that I wouldn't even give it to a child. It isn't even big enough to hold half the amount of tools I currently own.

I have broached the subject, partially. The company line is that we are only "supposed" to use the tools and equipment provided. However, so long as we don't take the piss, having a larger toolbox and our own tools would be overlooked, so long as they were safely stored, didn't add too much weight, and were serviceable. Hence why I couldn't get away with a full blown roll cab, but I do get away with my SO box, and could probably get away with making up this box. The reason I say "partially" broached, is I made general enquiries with my bosses about it, but if I make too much fuss or speak too loudly, then the bosses of the bosses (who have never fitted anything more than a lightbulb) would just enforce "company rule" making us adhere to the company line of "our stuff or no stuff" - which would spoil it for everyone, along with myself. Politics!

However, the words "do not **** about with the racking; no changes, modifications, or additions will be tolerated" were very sternly broadcast.

Re the Montezuma thing - not my cup of tea really. I'd not get one big enough to store everything I have (and will probably add to) as well as have enough space to actually open it and work from it.

 

[colin39]

My mate keith has the same issue,strange hes also from same area as yaself and also works f9r "not the rac lets say" , no names see im getting the hang of this, anyways I digress, now call me a dumb rs but wouldnt a 3 draw section work in this situation? Even it it ment lifting the top draw / shelf a bit in ya sortimoto racking it your "not green flag van" lol.

 

[Vinko]

the 58 and 59 are among my favorite Snappy Boxes.

I think I have a beat up 58 or 59 lying around here that I need a new lid for. If you find a beater and want to cut it up (perish the thought!) I could possibly go in halves with you since I could use a part or two from it to restore it!

 

[Strouty]

I would take it to a local fabricator and tell them what you want. They should easily be able to make it work. As far as holding up to the van, I used to have some craftsman boxes and they lasted many years, but I was able to weld them in. When you do this, I would make sure it is bolted top and bottom, so the box does not twist. The one issue I had was you could not have lots of tools floating in the drawers or when you got to a job, the drawer may not open. I actually ended up using foam and that made my life a lot easier. It also allowed me to quickly know if a tool was missing. Keep us updated.

 

[Matt_C]

Colin - the step up boxes won't work. The older ones were the right width (66cm) and depth (37ish cm), but in this size I've only seen two different types - either 2x deeper drawers, or 2x shallow drawers + a deeper one. And it seems the shallow drawers aren't as deep as the shallow drawers on my box, which means they won't fit the tools in I need them too (great for handled tools like screwdrivers, but not great for racking spanners and large sockets - mine go up to 32mm, which only JUST fits in my shallow drawer) Secondly, I don't need multiple deep drawers, I just need the one. Everything else needs to be in shallow (but not too shallow) drawers. Thirdly, the height of them is about 20/21cm. So two would fit in the 50cm gap, but three won't. Two, at most, would give me 6 drawers; but at the cost of drawer depth as already mentioned. I'd end up with less usable space than I have now. I won't fit three stacked up, without losing the shelf above, and I need that shelf to hold the stuff that fills it.

Vinko - I'm probably a bit far from you to be shipping heavy parts such as lids, transatlantic!

Strouty - I'd definitely be taking it to a local fabricator (I've actually got one in mind - good guy, local enough, and done me a few small "cash" jobs before), as I don't have the tools, or expertise to do what I'm proposing. I can plan and mark, but I don't have anything other than a hacksaw to cut metal, let alone a welder!

 

[Vinko]

Vinko - I'm probably a bit far from you to be shipping heavy parts such as lids, transatlantic!

Sorry Matt, didn’t see your location!

 

[Cris B]

I thought that the AA and RAC recovery vans came with built in tool boxes. I have seen some listed on eBay previously. Your firm seems unreasonable in their restrictions, but you're stuck with it.

It sounds like a relatively simple task to build the tool box you are looking for at the hands of someone who can work a welder and do some sheet metal work.

If you are going down this route then you might also consider a pair of cupboard style doors for the front to stop the drawers opening. If there was space you could step these out to give an inch or so of depth. This would allow you to design in some storage in the doors for screwdrivers, other tools, etc.

 

[Matt_C]

They do, but I'm not a breakdown patrol - I'm a windscreen fitter. Whole different set of tools and requirements. The patrols barely carry any tools, less any of their own. The racking provided is actually very good in most aspects, and many techs don't require the space I do (cos most don't invest in tools and then wonder why they can't do/complete the job because they don't have the right tool, and don't carry any spare clips, bolts, nuts, trims, etc. Christ, one tech I worked with didn't even own a set of socket - just used an adjustable wrench for everything! Shocking....)

Space wise, there really isn't much to play with. The box sits about 2-3" away from the inside of the closed side door, and there isn't room for doors (nor would I want any, really). I'm toying with the idea of using magnets to hold the drawers shut. It's not the end of the world if they slide open, they only open this much anyway;

Nothing comes out of them, it's just me being fussy. All I really want to do is ustilise the wasted space between my box and the shelf above it. I do currently use the space in the top for putting tools in the lift out tote tray, and whilst it works fine, it's not ideal. The inner tool geek in me wants drawers to lay them all out neatly, rather than root around the top tray to grab whatever.