Has anyone rebuilt an AC Hydraulic jack?

[kduniverse]

I have a DK20 for a long time now. Think I got it with a group purchase with the Corvette Forum like 15-16yrs ago. Anyway, used it a few weeks ago to repair a punctured tire on my Jeep and noticed it was not holding weight. Bought a rebuild kit and found horrible disassembly/assembly instructions online. What I found was a crack in the air tubing on the side of the cylinder tube that encloses the piston.

My question is has anyone dealt with this tubing or fittings before? I can't find much info on this part or the fittings. I removed the tube and fittings and I'm not sure if these quick connect fittings are reusable. Also, what type of tubing to replace with? This seems like light duty, pneumatic fittings and tubing.

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
KD

 

[pepi]

http://www.gemco.co.uk/product/ac-hydraulic-dk20-dk20q-2-tonne-trolley-jack/

See if this helps

Greg

 

[6PTsocket]

As you know, the jack is made in Denmark. Pelican ssems to be the US importer. I would contact them first about parts or service questions. Or go straight to the source. On the AC web site there is a blurb about their desire to maintain great customer service. It is a family business. I've been in Denmark; many speak better English than some Americans I know. Pelican or AC are your best bets.


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[maxdustington]

I have a DK20 for a long time now. Think I got it with a group purchase with the Corvette Forum like 15-16yrs ago. Anyway, used it a few weeks ago to repair a punctured tire on my Jeep and noticed it was not holding weight. Bought a rebuild kit and found horrible disassembly/assembly instructions online. What I found was a crack in the air tubing on the side of the cylinder tube that encloses the piston.

My question is has anyone dealt with this tubing or fittings before? I can't find much info on this part or the fittings. I removed the tube and fittings and I'm not sure if these quick connect fittings are reusable. Also, what type of tubing to replace with? This seems like light duty, pneumatic fittings and tubing.

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
KD

I have a DK13HLQ and it has the same problem. I have two rebuild kits but have not gotten around to it yet. Subbed.

 

[bizzton3k]

I have a DK13HLQ and it has the same problem. I have two rebuild kits but have not gotten around to it yet. Subbed.

How long have you had yours? I thought they were supposed to be indestructible Did you guys get around to rebuilding these?

 

[zaidspeak]

I have a DK20 that I bought in 2004 and so far it's holding weight fine, but I think I want to rebuild it just for the sake of my OCD. I just have to gather up the motivation to spend the time on that.

I found this video that looks very helpful:

In the worst case, I might just order a new hydraulic assembly and call it a day: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/AC9105000.htm

 

[BM333]

I've been looking at the DK20Q.

Was anyone able to successfully repair their jack?

Thanks

 

[afazz]

I successfully rebuilt my DK13HLQ a few years ago using a repair kit from Pelican Parts and the video above. I don't recall anything tricky that wasn't shown in the video. I think I re-used the compression fittings on the tube, I don't remember if it's a vent or a fluid return but it isn't pressurized.

 

[BM333]

Great to hear and thanks for the response. I have a line a used DK20Q that has only been used a couple times, for a good price. I think I'll go for it.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I have a DK20 for a long time now. Think I got it with a group purchase with the Corvette Forum like 15-16yrs ago. Anyway, used it a few weeks ago to repair a punctured tire on my Jeep and noticed it was not holding weight. Bought a rebuild kit and found horrible disassembly/assembly instructions online. What I found was a crack in the air tubing on the side of the cylinder tube that encloses the piston.

My question is has anyone dealt with this tubing or fittings before? I can't find much info on this part or the fittings. I removed the tube and fittings and I'm not sure if these quick connect fittings are reusable. Also, what type of tubing to replace with? This seems like light duty, pneumatic fittings and tubing.

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
KD

There is very little difference between hydraulic jacks. Google for a hydraulic supply business and you should be good to go. Remember, your life could depend on the parts and the job you do.
ATF is easy to find and not very expensive. ATF works well in hydraulic jacks.
I could not get this jack to lift the rear of my 1940 Ford. I had rebuilt the jack with a specific kit. I was about to scrap the jack when I discovered the handle had been shortened by half. Proper handle length and a new life for the jack.

 

[paulsomlo]

There is very little difference between hydraulic jacks. Google for a hydraulic supply business and you should be good to go. Remember, your life could depend on the parts and the job you do.
ATF is easy to find and not very expensive. ATF works well in hydraulic jacks.
I could not get this jack to lift the rear of my 1940 Ford. I had rebuilt the jack with a specific kit. I was about to scrap the jack when I discovered the handle had been shortened by half. Proper handle length and a new life for the jack.

You made peace with the Hein Werner!?

 

[BM333]

I successfully rebuilt my DK13HLQ a few years ago using a repair kit from Pelican Parts and the video above. I don't recall anything tricky that wasn't shown in the video. I think I re-used the compression fittings on the tube, I don't remember if it's a vent or a fluid return but it isn't pressurized.

Wondering if you used grease on the seals and other areas of the hydraulic unit when rebuilding it, as they did in the AC repair video?

I saw that they were using Fuchs Renolit Greaseway 92 which is an anhydrous, calcium thickened grease.
I'm wondering if this or other petroleum based grease will cause the seals to deteriorate and/or swell and break down.

I am just not positive about compatibility, but I am aware that hydraulic oil is petroleum based and doesn't seem incompatible with the seals.

Should I be only using an anhydrous, calcium thickened grease for the rebuild? Or silicone type grease?
I am also wondering about the grease contaminating the hydraulic oil.

Thanks,

B.

 

[paulsomlo]

I'm surprised that they were using any grease upon assembly - I would be inclined to oil the o-rings with the same hydraulic fluid that fills the jack. If you wanted an o-ring safe grease, you might try something like Sil-Glyde; compatible with rubber, but as far as hydraulic fluid, I don't know.

 

[BM333]

I'm surprised that they were using any grease upon assembly - I would be inclined to oil the o-rings with the same hydraulic fluid that fills the jack. If you wanted an o-ring safe grease, you might try something like Sil-Glyde; compatible with rubber, but as far as hydraulic fluid, I don't know.

Yeah, I'm not sure either.
I am reading online that hydraulic grease is used to seal hydraulic units and to keep the seals in place but I am not sure about compatibility.
I don't think that Fuchs grease is available in North America.
Thanks for your feedback and insight.

 

[afazz]

I don’t recall exactly what I used, but I think I used some generic hydraulic jack oil for the seals and o-rings with a small amount of Shell Rotella MP for any metal contact points including a few that were in contact with the oil. I do not believe I greased the seals directly.

 

[BM333]

Hey, thanks for the information on what you used.

I watched a few of the AC repairs videos and they use the same calcium grease in each one and apply it directly to the seals.
I did contact AC, but received several different answers, so I'm not sure.

 

[dscheidt]

Hey, thanks for the information on what you used.

I watched a few of the AC repairs videos and they use the same calcium grease in each one and apply it directly to the seals.
I did contact AC, but received several different answers, so I'm not sure.

I'm sure the grease isn't going to hurt the seals. I'm sure they're viton or something similar, and pretty resistant to lubricants (it also wears well). and the grease isn't going to migrate much, so I woulnd't be concerned about that, either. the oil the cylinder uses is the usual choice for lubricating new seals, but grease gets used to hold stuff in place and is sometimes spec'd for use because it forms a mechanical barrier to contamination.

 

[BM333]

I'm sure the grease isn't going to hurt the seals. I'm sure they're viton or something similar, and pretty resistant to lubricants (it also wears well). and the grease isn't going to migrate much, so I woulnd't be concerned about that, either. the oil the cylinder uses is the usual choice for lubricating new seals, but grease gets used to hold stuff in place and is sometimes spec'd for use because it forms a mechanical barrier to contamination.

Thanks very much for the response and insight!

 

[BM333]

I found this about the Fuchs Renolit grease:

"RENOLIT greases for permanent and long-term lubrication excel through their high performance, reliability and process-compatibility. They are also well tolerated by seal materials."

I wonder if their is an equivalent grease available?

I found this online also which aligns with what dscheidt said above:

"As O-rings are made from synthetic rubbers such as Neoprene, nitrile, and EPDM, you can use petroleum grease to perfectly lubricate the O-ring.
However, knowing if the O-ring is made from ordinary natural rubber or synthetic rubber is where the problem lies, as petroleum will degrade natural rubber."