Have you tried a headlamp recently???
- Thread starter Bolster
- Start date
HandyManny
Well-known member
Energizer LED head lamps!! Good, inexpensive, and easily replaced if lost or stolen. They work for me anyway.
PCO6
Well-known member
Bolster - You're right. I can even cut my grass at night now. It's GREAT!
bart1
Well-known member
Mine is a version of the one below. Wear it pretty much every time I work on my cars.
Erm...well, two out of three, anyway. They also have pretty good tint. Infuriatingly narrow beams, (almost) no brightness control, plastic-on-plastic vertical adjust, and one of the worst UIs I've experienced. I've given mine away to people who had no headlamps at all. Better an Energizer than nothing. And if you want an inexpensive headlamp, under $20, they're one of the better ones. For $20 I'd rather an Irix. Regulated runtime, boost electronics, single AA, 50 lumen and dial variable brightness with a decent low level of 5 lumen. (Still narrow beam.)
I've never had a problem with anyone stealing my headlamps. However, I've seen the pleading puppy-dog look in the eyes of lots of my contractors (once the realize the difference between an inexpensive and a quality headlamp) and have lost a lot of them by giving them away.
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Jeeper
Well-known member
That's what i have and it works well. My main gripe is that the rubber pad traps sweat against my forehead. Usually use a paper towel underneath when it's hot out.
I would really like to try a more expensive one that throws more and better light, but I will wait until they come down in price....which will happen. The narrow beam doesn't bother me too much. Just turn your head and the beam follows.
I will chime in to second the Zebralight recommendation. I use my H60W every day at work, and it's indispensable to me. Perfectly even flood, good neutral tint, and 4hr battery life on high. In fact, the only drawback to wearing such a high-powered lamp on your forehead is all the complaints from my coworkers if they happen to glance my way when it's turned on! I've become accustomed to covering the light with my hand quickly when walking past someone or looking at them for a second, or turning it off when talking to them.
And I'll stand by the durability of ZL's products, and their customer service. The first-generation H60 was plagued by a battery tube which was designed a little too short for most protected lithium-ion batteries. When the tailcap was tightened, the battery would exert too much force on the circuit board inside the head, and damage it. Zebralight promptly redesigned the battery tube and switch assembly, and replaced my light with an updated unit for free!
I will admit that sometimes, an old-fashioned trouble light is still the best way to illuminate your work. For instance, I find that when working in the confines of an engine bay, and trying to remove a fastener that is buried deep beneath hoses, wiring, and other components, a headlamp will illuminate those objects and leave your intended workpiece in the shadows. In that case, I usually take the Zebra off my forehead and prop it up in a more appropriate position.
And I'll stand by the durability of ZL's products, and their customer service. The first-generation H60 was plagued by a battery tube which was designed a little too short for most protected lithium-ion batteries. When the tailcap was tightened, the battery would exert too much force on the circuit board inside the head, and damage it. Zebralight promptly redesigned the battery tube and switch assembly, and replaced my light with an updated unit for free!
I will admit that sometimes, an old-fashioned trouble light is still the best way to illuminate your work. For instance, I find that when working in the confines of an engine bay, and trying to remove a fastener that is buried deep beneath hoses, wiring, and other components, a headlamp will illuminate those objects and leave your intended workpiece in the shadows. In that case, I usually take the Zebra off my forehead and prop it up in a more appropriate position.
american lockpicker
Banned
I recommend US made Surefire(AA optional version) or any French mdde Petzl.
Bentt, Argo has good buzz, it's a quality light. I don't own one but from what I've read I'd recommend it.
Petzls also have a following. Some of their upscales lights are amazing.
The Zebra H60w that MerkurMan has is a to-die for, specialty light, and now out of production. It uses a somewhat unusual (although easily obtainable, if you shop ahead of time) 18650 Li Ion rechargeable battery, and gives fantastic runtime and superior brightness for a single cell. Best of all, and even wide floody warm beam.
Marcusicp, look around on the Zebralight website and find one that suits you. You may find something you like better than the H501w that I like so much. The H501w is not the brightest of the bunch, and if you need lumens, they are giving as high as 200 lumen off a single AA battery. How they do that, I have no idea.
Petzls also have a following. Some of their upscales lights are amazing.
The Zebra H60w that MerkurMan has is a to-die for, specialty light, and now out of production. It uses a somewhat unusual (although easily obtainable, if you shop ahead of time) 18650 Li Ion rechargeable battery, and gives fantastic runtime and superior brightness for a single cell. Best of all, and even wide floody warm beam.
Marcusicp, look around on the Zebralight website and find one that suits you. You may find something you like better than the H501w that I like so much. The H501w is not the brightest of the bunch, and if you need lumens, they are giving as high as 200 lumen off a single AA battery. How they do that, I have no idea.
This is a posting of mine from a flashlights forum. I guess it's OK to copy and paste it since I wrote it, but it does duplicate what's at another forum. Here goes:
To Consider Before You Purchase a Headlamp.
Many people shopping for a headlamp ask: “What’s the best headlamp?” There’s no global answer to this question, because the headlamp that’s right for you, depends almost entirely on your intended use. Answer each of the questions below, and you’ll get a headlamp that meets your needs.
1. Beam angle: Do you need throw, flood, either, or both?
Throw: Are you moving quickly through dark spaces, like a kayaker or bicyclist? Are you on a search and rescue team, where your hands are full but you need to be seeing into the distance? Than you want a beam that throws a spot. Spot headlamps are a specialty need, since most enthusiasts want a headlamp to provide a floody beam or a mixed beam, preferring a handheld for throw.
Flood: Are you working with your hands? Setting up camp? Doing crawlspace, attic, or electrical work in dark places? Jogging at night, and don’t want the “bouncing ball” effect? Working in an emergency tech, in an ER room, or underneath your car? Reading in bed? Or any other activity that requires peripheral vision? Then you want a floody, wide, even beam of 60-120 degrees that gives you lots of peripheral vision, lit at the same level as the center of your vision. Many inexpensive lights are sold as “flood” that have narrow beams of 30 or 40 degrees. A narrow flood is usually a disadvantage, requiring you to swivel your neck a lot to illuminate a close-up view. But, depending on your task, a narrow flood can also be an advantage (for example, using the computer at night--narrow flood lights just the keyboard but not the screen).
Do you want either floor OR throw? There are lots of lights that will switch between beams, some better than others. Lights that are both spot and flood usually employ compromises, compared to purpose-built lights. On the other hand, there are high-end caver’s lights that do both tasks brilliantly.
Do you want both flood AND throw, simultaneously? Variously called “directional flood,” or “spot with spill,” it’s a compromise between flood and throw. Lots of models provide this function. Many put a hotspot in the center of a floody beam, but some place a hotspot at the top of a floody beam. Others just fade gradually from bright center to flood. A few actually throw an even (narrow) flood beam. They’re often preferred by people who walk trails at night. But don’t try to read with them...it’s a frustrating experience.
2. Battery type -- a majority of modern LED headlamps run on either AAA, AA, or CR123. (There are specialty cell sizes, too.) CR123 have the energy/size advantage, are getting easier to find in U.S. stores, and are pricier. If you weight performance over accessibility, then consider CR123s. If you’re traveling to out-of-the-way places, and not carrying cells with you, you may want to stick to AAA and AA. Many enthusiasts seek 1xAA and 2xAA lights (which require more expensive circuitry to boost the voltage necessary to light the LED) because of the ubiquity and power of AA cells. Others prefer AAA cells because of smaller size (although 3 are often called for) and the less expensive headlamps that can be built around them.
3. Battery placement -- do you want a small, minimalist headlamp that feels like you’re just wearing a hat? Want to be able to lie down while using the headlamp? Then you want an up-front battery placement, perhaps a 1xAA, 2xAA, 3xAAA, or 1xCR123. Do you want powerful light and long runtimes? Wearing a helmet? Not lying down? Don’t mind the weight on your head? Then you should consider back-of-the-head battery placement, or a belt-mounted battery pack with a connecting cable. Be aware that cables are the source of failures and frustration, however.
4. Beam tint & artifacts -- more and more enthusiasts are turning to neutral and warm tints in LEDs as top manufacturers make them available. They excel in the out-of-doors, where they allow the user to better distinguish shades of brown and green, and also for workers who must distinguish colors (of electrical wires, for example). Enthusiasts tend to shun green and purple tints. Blue tints (cool-tint) are readily available and are preferred by some for their brilliance. Beams with no discernible tint are highly sought after. Recently coming to the market, high-CRI lights (which may come in a variety of tints) attempt to more closely mimic the full spectrum of color that incans are blessed with, and do a better job on illuminating browns, oranges, and reds, since red emissions are weak for traditional white LEDs. Tint is very much an area of personal preference, as well as task (does tint really matter when you’re using the light to read a book?) but once you determine your tint preference, you may find tint preference becomes more important than a light’s brightness. It’s common to see enthusiasts giving up lumens for a preferred tint.
Specialty red and green LEDs are available for people (such as astronomers, soldiers, sailors, and hunters) who are trying to retain night vision. Some manufacturers build a red LED into multi-beam lights for an all-in-one solution.
Many enthusiasts are intolerant of beam artifacts of any sort. Most manufacturers have figured out how to eliminate them. Mild artifacts are of little consequence if you’re hiking at night, but can be quite annoying if you’re trying to read. Artifacts become worse at closer distances.
5. Brightness required (often discussed as lumens) depends on usage. Newbies think that brighter is always better, and sometimes, that’s true. Bicyclists, joggers, search-and-rescue, and cavers generally can’t get enough light, and crave multi-hundred (or even thousand) lumen headlamps. Don’t chase small percentage increases in brightness, however. A 20% increase in intensity may be barely noticeable, if you’re concentrating on seeing a difference, but it takes around 100% increase before a beam looks significantly brighter, and intensity must be 300%-400% to look twice as bright. And yes, a light can be too bright. If you are working in a crawlspace or attic, you may find anything above 50 lumens is too bright. If you’re reading in the dark, 10 lumens can be too bright. If you’re on a sailboat at night, observing stars, checking on your sleeping kids, or otherwise trying to preserve your night vision, you may find even 1 lumen too bright. So make sure your light goes as low as you need it, not just as high as you need it.
To Consider Before You Purchase a Headlamp.
Many people shopping for a headlamp ask: “What’s the best headlamp?” There’s no global answer to this question, because the headlamp that’s right for you, depends almost entirely on your intended use. Answer each of the questions below, and you’ll get a headlamp that meets your needs.
1. Beam angle: Do you need throw, flood, either, or both?
Throw: Are you moving quickly through dark spaces, like a kayaker or bicyclist? Are you on a search and rescue team, where your hands are full but you need to be seeing into the distance? Than you want a beam that throws a spot. Spot headlamps are a specialty need, since most enthusiasts want a headlamp to provide a floody beam or a mixed beam, preferring a handheld for throw.
Flood: Are you working with your hands? Setting up camp? Doing crawlspace, attic, or electrical work in dark places? Jogging at night, and don’t want the “bouncing ball” effect? Working in an emergency tech, in an ER room, or underneath your car? Reading in bed? Or any other activity that requires peripheral vision? Then you want a floody, wide, even beam of 60-120 degrees that gives you lots of peripheral vision, lit at the same level as the center of your vision. Many inexpensive lights are sold as “flood” that have narrow beams of 30 or 40 degrees. A narrow flood is usually a disadvantage, requiring you to swivel your neck a lot to illuminate a close-up view. But, depending on your task, a narrow flood can also be an advantage (for example, using the computer at night--narrow flood lights just the keyboard but not the screen).
Do you want either floor OR throw? There are lots of lights that will switch between beams, some better than others. Lights that are both spot and flood usually employ compromises, compared to purpose-built lights. On the other hand, there are high-end caver’s lights that do both tasks brilliantly.
Do you want both flood AND throw, simultaneously? Variously called “directional flood,” or “spot with spill,” it’s a compromise between flood and throw. Lots of models provide this function. Many put a hotspot in the center of a floody beam, but some place a hotspot at the top of a floody beam. Others just fade gradually from bright center to flood. A few actually throw an even (narrow) flood beam. They’re often preferred by people who walk trails at night. But don’t try to read with them...it’s a frustrating experience.
2. Battery type -- a majority of modern LED headlamps run on either AAA, AA, or CR123. (There are specialty cell sizes, too.) CR123 have the energy/size advantage, are getting easier to find in U.S. stores, and are pricier. If you weight performance over accessibility, then consider CR123s. If you’re traveling to out-of-the-way places, and not carrying cells with you, you may want to stick to AAA and AA. Many enthusiasts seek 1xAA and 2xAA lights (which require more expensive circuitry to boost the voltage necessary to light the LED) because of the ubiquity and power of AA cells. Others prefer AAA cells because of smaller size (although 3 are often called for) and the less expensive headlamps that can be built around them.
3. Battery placement -- do you want a small, minimalist headlamp that feels like you’re just wearing a hat? Want to be able to lie down while using the headlamp? Then you want an up-front battery placement, perhaps a 1xAA, 2xAA, 3xAAA, or 1xCR123. Do you want powerful light and long runtimes? Wearing a helmet? Not lying down? Don’t mind the weight on your head? Then you should consider back-of-the-head battery placement, or a belt-mounted battery pack with a connecting cable. Be aware that cables are the source of failures and frustration, however.
4. Beam tint & artifacts -- more and more enthusiasts are turning to neutral and warm tints in LEDs as top manufacturers make them available. They excel in the out-of-doors, where they allow the user to better distinguish shades of brown and green, and also for workers who must distinguish colors (of electrical wires, for example). Enthusiasts tend to shun green and purple tints. Blue tints (cool-tint) are readily available and are preferred by some for their brilliance. Beams with no discernible tint are highly sought after. Recently coming to the market, high-CRI lights (which may come in a variety of tints) attempt to more closely mimic the full spectrum of color that incans are blessed with, and do a better job on illuminating browns, oranges, and reds, since red emissions are weak for traditional white LEDs. Tint is very much an area of personal preference, as well as task (does tint really matter when you’re using the light to read a book?) but once you determine your tint preference, you may find tint preference becomes more important than a light’s brightness. It’s common to see enthusiasts giving up lumens for a preferred tint.
Specialty red and green LEDs are available for people (such as astronomers, soldiers, sailors, and hunters) who are trying to retain night vision. Some manufacturers build a red LED into multi-beam lights for an all-in-one solution.
Many enthusiasts are intolerant of beam artifacts of any sort. Most manufacturers have figured out how to eliminate them. Mild artifacts are of little consequence if you’re hiking at night, but can be quite annoying if you’re trying to read. Artifacts become worse at closer distances.
5. Brightness required (often discussed as lumens) depends on usage. Newbies think that brighter is always better, and sometimes, that’s true. Bicyclists, joggers, search-and-rescue, and cavers generally can’t get enough light, and crave multi-hundred (or even thousand) lumen headlamps. Don’t chase small percentage increases in brightness, however. A 20% increase in intensity may be barely noticeable, if you’re concentrating on seeing a difference, but it takes around 100% increase before a beam looks significantly brighter, and intensity must be 300%-400% to look twice as bright. And yes, a light can be too bright. If you are working in a crawlspace or attic, you may find anything above 50 lumens is too bright. If you’re reading in the dark, 10 lumens can be too bright. If you’re on a sailboat at night, observing stars, checking on your sleeping kids, or otherwise trying to preserve your night vision, you may find even 1 lumen too bright. So make sure your light goes as low as you need it, not just as high as you need it.
6. Runtime & Regulation. Everybody wants the longest runtime possible, but it’s a compromise with brightness and your battery choice. If you work with your light from 8 to noon, then take lunch, then a 4-hour runtime would be important. If you’re caving all day long, then you’ll want a much longer runtime (and larger battery pack). If you can stop at any time to change a battery, then you’re fortunate, and can purchase a lightweight headlamp. Enthusiasts tend to value regulated lights, where the brightness is kept at a constant output until the cells are exhausted. Regulation combats the “starts out too bright and then gets too dim” issue with yesteryear’s lights. Check to make sure you light is regulated if a constant brightness level is important to you. Inexpensive lights often aren’t regulated.
7. Do you need a waterproof headlamp? If there’s a chance your lamp will get wet, or immersed, better look for a high IP rating. IP stands for “International Protection.” Following IP, the first digit rates protection against dust (from X = not measured up to 6 = completely protected). The second measures protection against liquids (from 0 = not protected, to 8 = prolonged immersion deeper than 1 meter). So the highest possible rating would be IP68.
8. Headband Attachment & Comfort. Your ability to move the headlamp up and down to illuminate your work becomes a vital issue, particularly if the beam is narrow. Narrow-beam headlamps (say, 40 and less) require constant adjustment for close tasks. Some lights use a click-stop adjustment, with plastic against plastic. Be suspect of these if you plan heavy use. Other headlamp mounts encircle the round body with rings of silicone, rubber, or plastic, allowing simple and long-lasting up/down adjustment from friction fit alone. Still others allow you to remove the light from its mount to use as a handheld, clip in a pocket, or set on the ground. Attachment adjustment and versatility is an important consideration, so don’t ignore it. You’ll understand when you get a loose adjustment that’s always dropping the light to illuminate the tip of your nose. Regarding the headstrap band itself, you want an adjustable, flexible strap that nonetheless holds firmly, but without giving you a headache. If your lamp is on the heavy side you’ll want an additional strap over the top of the head. The point of contact with the forehead is critical. Whether silicone, closed-cell-foam, open-cell foam, or other, try the strap before you buy. An uncomfortable strap gets old...quickly.
9. User Interface. This is a minor issue to some, and a major issue to others. A frustrating user interface will, for example, require you to click through all modes to find the one you want...perhaps starting at the highest and blasting your night adapted vision in the process. Human-friendly interfaces get you to the mode you want with speed and ease. Many enthusiasts like the knob-style dials that are starting to appear on lights: they’re simple and easy to dial in the precise illumination wanted.
10. Price & Reliability. These two factors are highly correlated. The least expensive but still functional lights will typically use 3xAAA to get voltage above the magic 4 volts needed to light an LED. Lights become more expensive as regulation and boost circuits are added (which allow an LED to be lit by a singe AA cell, for example). Quality multifunction lights are often pricier, as are lights with desirable beam tints, high-CRI, made in U.S.A., high brightness, and so on. The more expensive lights are generally thought to be brighter, more robust, with better seals, precision threads, sturdy electronics, larger heat-sinks, more aluminum and less plastic, O-rings, better tint, better warranty service, etc. Some lights have a known pedigree of quality. You have a wide range of quality lights to choose from in the $50-$120 range, although some lights provide remarkable value for as little as $20. In the range of $100 to $1000 are fabulously bright, sturdy lights that appeal to professionals, cavers, and others form whom performance is mission-critical. And of course you can pay to have a custom light made to suit your particular needs.
7. Do you need a waterproof headlamp? If there’s a chance your lamp will get wet, or immersed, better look for a high IP rating. IP stands for “International Protection.” Following IP, the first digit rates protection against dust (from X = not measured up to 6 = completely protected). The second measures protection against liquids (from 0 = not protected, to 8 = prolonged immersion deeper than 1 meter). So the highest possible rating would be IP68.
8. Headband Attachment & Comfort. Your ability to move the headlamp up and down to illuminate your work becomes a vital issue, particularly if the beam is narrow. Narrow-beam headlamps (say, 40 and less) require constant adjustment for close tasks. Some lights use a click-stop adjustment, with plastic against plastic. Be suspect of these if you plan heavy use. Other headlamp mounts encircle the round body with rings of silicone, rubber, or plastic, allowing simple and long-lasting up/down adjustment from friction fit alone. Still others allow you to remove the light from its mount to use as a handheld, clip in a pocket, or set on the ground. Attachment adjustment and versatility is an important consideration, so don’t ignore it. You’ll understand when you get a loose adjustment that’s always dropping the light to illuminate the tip of your nose. Regarding the headstrap band itself, you want an adjustable, flexible strap that nonetheless holds firmly, but without giving you a headache. If your lamp is on the heavy side you’ll want an additional strap over the top of the head. The point of contact with the forehead is critical. Whether silicone, closed-cell-foam, open-cell foam, or other, try the strap before you buy. An uncomfortable strap gets old...quickly.
9. User Interface. This is a minor issue to some, and a major issue to others. A frustrating user interface will, for example, require you to click through all modes to find the one you want...perhaps starting at the highest and blasting your night adapted vision in the process. Human-friendly interfaces get you to the mode you want with speed and ease. Many enthusiasts like the knob-style dials that are starting to appear on lights: they’re simple and easy to dial in the precise illumination wanted.
10. Price & Reliability. These two factors are highly correlated. The least expensive but still functional lights will typically use 3xAAA to get voltage above the magic 4 volts needed to light an LED. Lights become more expensive as regulation and boost circuits are added (which allow an LED to be lit by a singe AA cell, for example). Quality multifunction lights are often pricier, as are lights with desirable beam tints, high-CRI, made in U.S.A., high brightness, and so on. The more expensive lights are generally thought to be brighter, more robust, with better seals, precision threads, sturdy electronics, larger heat-sinks, more aluminum and less plastic, O-rings, better tint, better warranty service, etc. Some lights have a known pedigree of quality. You have a wide range of quality lights to choose from in the $50-$120 range, although some lights provide remarkable value for as little as $20. In the range of $100 to $1000 are fabulously bright, sturdy lights that appeal to professionals, cavers, and others form whom performance is mission-critical. And of course you can pay to have a custom light made to suit your particular needs.
american lockpicker
Banned
You on CPF?
Gregg33
Well-known member
I have a mini (AAA) MagLite that I hold in my teeth. It's bailed me out several times. I'm sure a proper light would be even more beneficial!
Mario
Well-known member
Thanks Bolster for all this!
I own 2 cheap headlamps and don't use them because I HATE them! Too big, use AAA, cheaply made, will not always work...and now I know why I cant' see **** with them: Wrong color and to narrow beam.
Now I know what to look for and already have a few good one to look at!
I own 2 cheap headlamps and don't use them because I HATE them! Too big, use AAA, cheaply made, will not always work...and now I know why I cant' see **** with them: Wrong color and to narrow beam.
Now I know what to look for and already have a few good one to look at!
Great writeup Bolster! I've got a Princeton Tech and a Black Diamond that I like. Got one of those ancient Forester 4 D cell headlamps. I wonder of you can get an LED for that one? It would be like wearing a WWII searchlight!
Heythere Plombob! Both PT and BD are upscale brands with really good offerings. Regarding upgrading big ol' multiple D cell incans, search under TerraLUX and see what you find. I upgraded a 3D MagLite and it's so bright it's dangerous. But it is cursed with the LED "flatness" of color. Good for scaring a perp, but not so good for seeing what kind of critter is in the back yard.
I've been told cops have been some of the last to migrate to LEDs, because Incans (which are all high-CRI) allow them to see much better, such as when looking for a perp hiding in a bush, or some such. So maybe stick with your incan until you can get a high CRI LED upgrade for it?
I've been told cops have been some of the last to migrate to LEDs, because Incans (which are all high-CRI) allow them to see much better, such as when looking for a perp hiding in a bush, or some such. So maybe stick with your incan until you can get a high CRI LED upgrade for it?
Test Tech
Well-known member
For what its worth I have a princeton tec with four leds. I origionally baought it for doing yard work in the fall when it gets dark earlier. I paid $35.00 and it works like a champ, lights things up way better than the headlights on my lawn tractor.
sakurama
Well-known member
Interesting thread. I was a big fan of headlamps for camping and motorcycle touring years ago when they first came out but none of my small ones are of use in the shop. Yesterday I was using a crappy florescent drop light to wire a VFD into my lathe and it would have been great to have a good headlamp.
So save me some research - what's the best "high CRI" headlamp? Flood and variable power. I was about to pull the trigger on the Saint but if there's better I'm curious to know.
So save me some research - what's the best "high CRI" headlamp? Flood and variable power. I was about to pull the trigger on the Saint but if there's better I'm curious to know.
As far as I know there isn't a high CRI headlamp out yet (in the sub $150 range at least) although Zebralight and SureFire and I think Spark (the original three in this post) all have them on the drawing board. But you can at least get a neutral/warm emitter now, and they are close, they have much color rendition. If you like SF, they say they will have a warm (or possibly high CRI, we don't know exactly which yet) out "soon." Zebralight has been selling neutral/warms for years, and it's rumored their high-CRI headlamp will be out within months--because their high CRI flashlight is out now.
If you read my post, you know I don't believe there is a "best." Just better and worse matches for your needs. Go to the first post in this thread, click on one of the links in the bottom paragraph of that post, and you'll find a list of floody beam headlamps that you can study.
If you read my post, you know I don't believe there is a "best." Just better and worse matches for your needs. Go to the first post in this thread, click on one of the links in the bottom paragraph of that post, and you'll find a list of floody beam headlamps that you can study.
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That's what we wear all wear at work for attic and crawl space jobs. Wish there was a rechargeable batter solution but otherwise I have no complaints. Usually leave it on the lowest setting.
Mario
Well-known member
Just ordered a ZLH501W from Zebra light! 
Just finished fabricating this two-light Zebralight setup for my "crawlspace and attic helmet." Plenty of light and if one battery is exhausted, chances are the other will have enough juice left to light the battery change-out. This setup will blast 160 lumens for over 2 hours, or 30 lumens for almost 20 hours.
I hate the feeling you get when your battery gives out in a strange, dark, tight crawlspace. Ain't nothing so comfortable as redundancy. "Two is one, and one is none."
I hate the feeling you get when your battery gives out in a strange, dark, tight crawlspace. Ain't nothing so comfortable as redundancy. "Two is one, and one is none."
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j.c.whitney
Well-known member
Well satisfied with the Icon Irix II, $22 shipped, decent user interface, runtimes, and usable lumens.
RBailey
Well-known member
Firstly I love headlights, most of my work is outside at night (DIY spanner monkey).
One problem I find with headlights is looking into long narrow places (such as deep bowels of engine bay).
As my eye line and the head tourch aren't on same plain it's either in shadow or I can't see.
I can see those glasses mounted lights good in this case but they look like toys.
Anybody got any thoughts ?
Cheers,
Richard B.
One problem I find with headlights is looking into long narrow places (such as deep bowels of engine bay).
As my eye line and the head tourch aren't on same plain it's either in shadow or I can't see.
I can see those glasses mounted lights good in this case but they look like toys.
Anybody got any thoughts ?
Cheers,
Richard B.
Mario
Well-known member
Update on my Zebralight H501W:
I've used a few time (mostly wiring on cars) and I really can't see how someone would compare it to a 5$ "dealextreme" headlamp. I really like the H501W better and yes, I tried a couple of cheaper ones.
I've used a few time (mostly wiring on cars) and I really can't see how someone would compare it to a 5$ "dealextreme" headlamp. I really like the H501W better and yes, I tried a couple of cheaper ones.
shampoop
Well-known member
I have one. Don't remember the brand name, got it of woot.com one day. Anyway it holds 4 AA batteries on the back side and is pretty bright and has a good run time. I love it and use it all the time. Co-workers always joke that i'm a coal miner They just wish they looked so cool.
They just wish they looked so cool.MKIndustrial
Active member
I have bought several of these types of lights over the years and even thou the Stream light was the nicest in my opinion the Energizer ones seem to be the best value.. Plus when you lose them you don't have to feel to bad!! LOL. Just my 2 cents
chevy_cowboy
Well-known member
I just wanted to thank the OP for the recommendation. After reading this thread last week, I ordered a zebralight. I ordered the H31F because I have several flashlights that use CR123s and always have the batteries around. I got it yesterday and used it for the first time greasing a truck.... wow is all I can say. For years I've been dragging around some various handheld trouble lite or lately a recharagable cordless light for grease jobs... now I can have WAY more light, directed exactly where I need it, and have both hands free! It only took about 10 minutes to fall in love with this little light, by the end of the first day I ordered a second one for my home toolbox.
If you're at all on the fence about a headlamp... buy one!
If you're at all on the fence about a headlamp... buy one!
I like it, and recommend it to anybody that wants to try a headlight. Nothing about it compels me to spend more money. Next year when something twice as bright etc. is available for around the same price, maybe I will think about trying one of those, but this one is plenty bright for any night time tasks I might put it to. Daytime where you are moving from bright sunlight to sort of dark or shadowed and your eyes don't have time to adjust, maybe something brighter would be better, but I rarely do that and haven't tested this one that way.
Red mode is nice, enough to see for walking and avoiding obstacles, but no effect on your night vision, and tends not to disturb anybody else even close by.
BTW you have me all wrong Bolster, I love having the absolute best things and own more than a few, but I never spend if I don't want to or need to.
Weps
Well-known member
great thread and write-up.
for occasional garage use, just about any budget priced lamp will be fine. considering how useful, if not essential, they are, you may find a desire to eventually begin taking them outdoors for hunting, climbing, sailing, and what not, and you'll likely want something built with those conditions and environments in mind. moisture and temperature extremes will take their toll on the lesser grade materials pretty quickly.
for occasional garage use, just about any budget priced lamp will be fine. considering how useful, if not essential, they are, you may find a desire to eventually begin taking them outdoors for hunting, climbing, sailing, and what not, and you'll likely want something built with those conditions and environments in mind. moisture and temperature extremes will take their toll on the lesser grade materials pretty quickly.
Weps
Well-known member
i have a pair of safety glasses with the swivel led lights mounted on each temple. they are well built and function as designed and honestly do come in handy. there are models that don't look terribly out of place or toy like. there are also some more stylish models i've seen used for fly tying.
i'd say they are worth a look as a supplement to the head lamp.
RBailey
Well-known member
After a long time using various "cheap" lights I have just got a LED LENSER H14 and WOW, massive amount of light, love it.
The light literally lives on my head when I am working on cars, even in the day.
The light head has a quality lens which you focus, it can throw a beam of light a massive distance but on the flood it produces a lovely even wide flood of white light.
I normally use the light on flood with lowest power setting but just a click of button (in my pocket) and its full power and its simple to just focus the beam for retina burning spot light.
It has a separate battery pack that uses 4 AA batteries which also has the switch. The head strap is a three way so it runs over the top of your head which means you don’t need the strap as tight so good for long duration us but it means you can bump the battery pack. However, it comes with an extension cable so the battery pack lives in my pocket, this reduces the weight on my head and it’s easy to switch on/off and control power.
Cheers,
Richard B.
The light literally lives on my head when I am working on cars, even in the day.
The light head has a quality lens which you focus, it can throw a beam of light a massive distance but on the flood it produces a lovely even wide flood of white light.
I normally use the light on flood with lowest power setting but just a click of button (in my pocket) and its full power and its simple to just focus the beam for retina burning spot light.
It has a separate battery pack that uses 4 AA batteries which also has the switch. The head strap is a three way so it runs over the top of your head which means you don’t need the strap as tight so good for long duration us but it means you can bump the battery pack. However, it comes with an extension cable so the battery pack lives in my pocket, this reduces the weight on my head and it’s easy to switch on/off and control power.
Cheers,
Richard B.
Juddy
Active member
I've been using the Led Lenser H7 for a few years on the mine site on my hard hat, use it when fishing or working on cars at home and it is hands down the best headlamp I have used by far. 170 lumens on your head with adjustable beam is pretty impressive. I'm currently thinking of upgrading to a H14 with 220 lumens. I would highly recommend them to anyone.
JASTECH
Well-known member
I keep a Nebo Redline in my pouch on my belt with Swiss utility knife, Schrade sissors and 2 Sharpies (Blk, Blu). It has a "Cree" L.E.D. One of the best L.E.D.'s made is the USA made Cree.
Simple Sam
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2011
- Messages
- 122
Funny that this thread would pop up after being dormant; I just ordered a Zebralight H502. I decided I needed a headlight for camping and to leave in the car in case of an emergency. I have a Zebralight SC600 and considered the H600 but decided I wanted to be able to use eneloops when I was camping but leave it in the car with a lithium primary.
It's really amazing how good LED lights are. My Zebralight SC600 is extraordinarily bright for its' size and makes a great light for shorter distances. I also have a Fenix TK41 for those situations that call for longer distance. I've also accumulated numerous lights that fit other niches. People on this forum constantly talk about cheap Chinese tools and although they produce plenty of cheap LED lights, they also produce high quality, high end lights for the enthusiast. Check out candlepowerforums for lots of information on lights.
It's really amazing how good LED lights are. My Zebralight SC600 is extraordinarily bright for its' size and makes a great light for shorter distances. I also have a Fenix TK41 for those situations that call for longer distance. I've also accumulated numerous lights that fit other niches. People on this forum constantly talk about cheap Chinese tools and although they produce plenty of cheap LED lights, they also produce high quality, high end lights for the enthusiast. Check out candlepowerforums for lots of information on lights.
I didn't even realize it was an old thread. I started reading, and -- bam -- now I've got a Zebralight H502c on order. The warmer color temperature and 120° flood angle hooked me. I don't need 200+ lumens in the garage, but I was using the jig saw today on some aluminum and wished I had more light.
This might save me from having to install lights under my lift.
This might save me from having to install lights under my lift.
Have tried several headlamps over the years and my favorite so far would be this one...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KYFZJG/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Unfortunately I think it's discontinued, but it has/had alot to offer for the price point if you can still find one.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KYFZJG/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Unfortunately I think it's discontinued, but it has/had alot to offer for the price point if you can still find one.
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