Having second thoughts about a metal building

[arrowhead]

First post so Hello!

I need to build a building. I have a basement 2 car garage that I have outgrown, the projects have ramped up so there are issues with smells, dirt and dust etc.from welding grinding, auto body work and paint, etc.

That being said, I need to replace a 12x10 shed and a 10x20 "teepee". Well, the shed is down as of two days ago so the wheels are in motion. My original intent was a 24x30 metal building. Well that got reduced to 20x30 due some town requirements (bigger than 600 sf = more hoops to jump through= more $). I'm ok with the 20x30 size, it will take care of my storage needs and give me enough room for my shop area. I'll still have the basement garage for overflow as needed.

Now here's the BUT. My budget is just big enough for a metal building and concrete slab (about $9K). The power, heat, insulation etc. will have to come later and I'm ok with that. My concern is the "carport on steroids" building. The main issues are the extra weight on the roof from insulation, lights, and some kind of ceiling and the difficulty of fitting it out wall insulation and covering. They are really not designed for that and the last thing I need is for it to colapse. So now I'm second guessing that maybe I should go smaller with a wood building to keep within my budget.

Thoughts? Thanks

 

[Kevin54]

If you have a basement garage, any possibility of adding onto it? I know a lot depends on the looks of the house, but I have saw some additions that look rather nice. In doing it that way, all you need is three walls and move your doors from where they are out to the outside wall.

Just tossing an idea out there.

 

[arrowhead]

Thanks, that's actually a great idea and one I had wanted to do for a long time. Unfotunately, I think the cost of an addition would be quite a bit more as it would need full frost wals rather than a floating slab I'm planning on for a stand alone building.

 

[readhead]

I sell metal buildings and at that square footage I would recomend a stick frame building. Metal will work but there is an economic threshold at about 1500 ft around here where wood is cheaper. As far as lights and the other things you talked about that is no problem in a metal building as long as the collateral load is included in the design. I am assuming you are talking about a real pre-engineered metal building and not a glorified car port. I like those buildings when we have to take a crane out to lift the building off the cars after a big snowfall.

 

[lt1driver]

READHEAD......what do you think about a carport/garage using 3x3 box for the 4 corner and an additional 2 in between the 4 corners...6 or 8 inch c-channel for roof beans and walls of metal screwed into the beams??? would be on a 5 -6" thick pad.

 

[readhead]

Not enough info. Basic questions are location, wind load, snow load, permits required, engineering required for building and or foundation, number and size of openings?
Sounds like you want to design your own building and that is ok but I would run your design by an engineer to make sure it will stay up when you are done. You didn't mention what the rafters or rigid frames would be made of which is probably the most important part.
For instance, awhile back we built a customs design for a customer that used 4"x4" tube for the columns and 16" deep H beams for the rafters to accomplish the moment connections.
It can be done and in that case the customer had the building designed along with a new house. When it was all said and done we could have supplied a pre engineered building for less money.
Error on the side of saftey and have what you are planning checked out. If what you are describing is something that is a kit ask for the engineering. If it is a reputable company they will supply it.

Sorry. Not trying to hijack your thread. I just noticed Driver posted a similar question a little further down.

 

[Helipilot]

+1 on Redhead's post. I just priced a 40' x 48'x 14' eve, two 12' roll ups, one 14' roll up and one walk door with six each 4' x 6' horizon slide windows with 3" vinly backed insulation. Pre-engineered price was $16,000 or $8.33 per square foot, add another $2.66/sq.ft. for the slab and you have a fairly good estimate for your cost less electrical, plumbing, etc. YMMV depending on location but that is good for this area. Have built several and that is a good number. The building complies with building codes for this area with regard to snow loads and wind loads. I am in the beautiful Natural State of Arkansas where the economy is great.

Good Luck on your search, design and building of your shop.

 

[GYPSY400]

I think for that size, stick frame is the way to go.. If you ever want to do anything that fastens to the walls ( hang something up?!) you will need a stud wall anyhow.

 

[arrowhead]

Well I've done some more research and submitted plans to the town for a stick built. The metal car port garage just had too many things I didn't like. Thanks for all the input!

 

[Desert1957]

First post so Hello!

My concern is the "carport on steroids" building.

Why do you think it could look like a carport?

Desert

 

[arrowhead]

Why do you think it could look like a carport?
Desert

Sorry I wasn't more clear. There are a lot of companies selling carports that are just enclosed with sheetmeal panels and a roll up door and call them a garage - nothing like your building. That's what I was origianlly considering. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[CNGsaves]

 

[arrowhead]

Sorry, thought it was pretty clear. It's kind of a moot point anyway as I'm going stick built. But since you asked - this is one of the buildings without all the siding.

I have nothing against a true engineered metal building mind you, in fact would have preferred it. But, being it won't be insulated for a while, I was concerned about condensation on the inside not to mention the higher cost of a true engineered steel building.

Hopefully i'll be able to start a thread soon on building my stick building.

Thanks