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Having trouble justifying 3/8" impact gear

mjs3350

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Jun 10, 2015
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I'm a DIY guy who has recently picked up the 1/2" Earthquake XT Stubby, and I've got a set of shallow and deep, metric and standard impact sockets (looking to add swivel impacts soon). All my impact gear is currently 1/2" drive. It seems like 3/8" impact gear is pretty popular, but I'm having a hard time seeing why I'd ever need it when the 1/2" gear is already so small and light on the stubby gun. Is there any additional benefit to 3/8" drive impact that I'm not seeing?
 
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Negen

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The only benefit I can see is maybe slightly smaller sockets or slightly thinner walls. Which may be needed in some situations. I for one rarely use 1/2" drive sockets. My 3/8 goes from 5mm - 32mm and I have 24" 3/8 breaker bars. Only recently have I started getting 1/4 drive sockets and 1/2 drive sockets. I now have 10-32 in 1/2" I haven't had a need for a impact wrench yet but do want one.

I would think it mainly depends on what you use your impact for. As a dyi guy I am not sure what you would use impact for. If you doing tire rotation make sure you get torque limiting extensions. I have mainly only used impact wrenches to loosen fasteners. Unless building stuff steel stair cases or steel storage bases. General construction type stuff where bolts are used and no torque specifications other than tight are given.

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M6erfan

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I'm a DIY guy who has recently picked up the 1/2" Earthquake XT Stubby, and I've got a set of shallow and deep, metric and standard impact sockets (looking to add swivel impacts soon). All my impact gear is currently 1/2" drive. It seems like 3/8" impact gear is pretty popular, but I'm having a hard time seeing why I'd ever need it when the 1/2" gear is already so small and light on the stubby gun. Is there any additional benefit to 3/8" drive impact that I'm not seeing?

I have 1/4" impact, which is the most useful for my needs, and a 1/2" for the bigger stuff. I can't see a need for 3/8", just another set of stuff I need to keep track of...
 
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mjs3350

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Thanks for the replies. My DIY stuff includes moderate car repair, and breaking loose fasteners is my main purpose for having impact gear. I use it for assembly too, but generally turn the gun down and stop early to finish tightening by hand. Looks like 3/8 impact wouldn't be worth having around just in case, for my needs.
 

protegeV

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I use 3/8" WAY more often that 1/2" but I have the 1/2" for heavy stuff like lugnuts and front end work. Everyone's needs are different. If you get by with 1/2" then no need to spend money on something you won't hardly use.
 

M6erfan

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Another thought, my 1/4" impact set goes from 4mm to 15mm and my 1/2" impact set goes from 10mm-36mm. That's coverage from 4-36mm between those two sets. Generally 3/8" sets cover 6-19mm. What are you gaining by going 3/8?
 

sberry

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I don't have 3/8 either. I can seem to get the gun in where I need to and have so much stuff scattered around that using a single size for impact is easy. If I was under cars 40 hrs a week, working out of a single box would probably have it along with modern drives.
 

Stooge

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non pro but with a shop here, but no 3/8 impact for me, just 1/2 and some 3/4, though both are air powered. im not usually in a rush, so the time savings is a nonissue and I have enough long ratchets and breaker bars that a 3/8 sized fastener is generally a nonissue as well. if I was a professional tech where my time mattered a bit more, I would absolutely invest in it though.
 

Professional Tool User

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For automotive, 3/8 Dr is most commonly used. Also, the shorter socket length does make a difference in tight spots. If you are going to be buying a stubby gun you may as well go as compact as you can.
 
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mjs3350

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For automotive, 3/8 Dr is most commonly used. Also, the shorter socket length does make a difference in tight spots. If you are going to be buying a stubby gun you may as well go as compact as you can.

I didn't know 3/8" sockets were shorter than 1/2" ones. That's a decent benefit, even if a 1/2" and 3/8" stubby gun were the same size.
 

gtsgarage

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I only bought the 1/4 and 3/8 stubby impacts because my buddy gave me a set of SAE snap-on impact sockets mid length in 3/8” and shallow in 1/4”. They have been sitting for years new in their packaging so finally decided it was a good excuse for a couple new tools.

If I need 1/2” I’ll need to fire up the compressor and go air impact.

If you have coverage from 1/4 and 1/2 with no gaps then don’t bother.
 

86k10

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I use 3/8 for most of my work. I work mostly on medium/heavy duty. That's at least 40hrs a week. Really just depends on what you do. At home I really don't use air much, just like on big projects like a engine swap.
 

thin_concrete

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Another DIYer here and for whatever reason, I ended up with mostly 1/2 and 3/8. I maintain the cars in the house and a bunch of other things that pop up from time to time.
 

Sloper0204

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Not. Needed.
Pick a platform and stick with it.
Hah!

I have impact gear in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4. It all has different applications. 1/4 was purchased when I was working on mainly dirt bikes, quads, and snowmobiles. 3/8 for automotive, 1/2 and 3/4 when I was working industrial.
 

Voi

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Subscribed as I'm in a similar situation. I'm mostly invested in 1/2" impact stuff but thinking about starting over with 3/8" if I get buy an M12 stubby impact and ratchet.
 

Zewnten

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Similar but different to a couple of other posters here, all I have is 3/8 and 3/4 impact. If my 3/8 gun doesn't break it free usually the 1/2 doesn't either, my 3/8 cover 8mm to 25mm and 3/4 cover 3/4 to 2”. If I mostly worked on cars I'd probably go the European route And only get 1/4 and 1/2, with the 1/2 going up to 1 1/2.

Also have 1/4 in chrome but have been debating about getting impacts to replace them.
 
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mjs3350

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Subscribed as I'm in a similar situation. I'm mostly invested in 1/2" impact stuff but thinking about starting over with 3/8" if I get buy an M12 stubby impact and ratchet.

That's sort of where my thinking got started. It seems like a lot of techs use the 3/8" m12 stubby and do just fine, but I believe it's bigger than something like the 1/2" earthquake XT stubby. That 1/2" air stubby should fit anywhere the m12 3/8" stubby can fit.
 

Granite80

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3/8 is a lot easier to position and use when working on your back under the vehicle. I have 3/8 (M12) and 1/2 (M18) Milwaukee I cant imagine manipulating that 1/2 gun around under the truck, but maybe I just need bigger arms :)


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mjs3350

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3/8 is a lot easier to position and use when working on your back under the vehicle. I have 3/8 (M12) and 1/2 (M18) Milwaukee I cant imagine manipulating that 1/2 gun around under the truck, but maybe I just need bigger arms :)


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But what if the 1/2" you had was smaller and lighter than even your 3/8" m12? That's where I'm at.
 

protegeV

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1/2" Stubby Fuel.

Boom! Drops mic...

Might wanna pick that mic back up there bro.

The only difference between the 3/8 and 1/2 fuel stubby is the drive anvil. They have the exact same power ratings.

The whole point of a 1/2 over a 3/8 is increased power. So if you're just using what is essentially an underpowered stubby version of a 1/2 impact the you may as well just have a normal sized 3/8.

If we are comparing apples to apples, a full sized 3/8 vs a full sized 1/2, then the 1/2" should rightfully have more power, which is the whole point of a bigger tool.
 

DFB

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You can easily get by with 1/2 for years I know I did. And I only expanded on my 3/8" impact sockets after finding a need for road sets for my newer 3/8" drive cordless impacts. :thumbup:

Then on occasion you WILL find the need to put a 3/8" on a more powerful 1/2" tool for SOME clearance issue...

Yup then you snap the reducer :lol:
 

M6erfan

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Might wanna pick that mic back up there bro.

The only difference between the 3/8 and 1/2 fuel stubby is the drive anvil. They have the exact same power ratings.

The whole point of a 1/2 over a 3/8 is increased power. So if you're just using what is essentially an underpowered stubby version of a 1/2 impact the you may as well just have a normal sized 3/8.

If we are comparing apples to apples, a full sized 3/8 vs a full sized 1/2, then the 1/2" should rightfully have more power, which is the whole point of a bigger tool.

Yeah, but if you are invested in 1/2" impact sockets and dont have any 3/8" (like the OP)...

BOOOOOOM! (throws mic at protogeV...)

:lol_hitti JK about throwing the mic at you bro
 
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brooktre

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When I got my impacts not that long ago I got 1/2" and 3/8" and that combination covered all of the sizes I thought I would need. I use the 3/8" drive sockets frequently due to their smaller size.

My 3/8" drive impacts are all Tekton's (4 sets SAE / Metric in shallow and deep). The cost for those 4 sets was less than $100 so I say go for it.
 

intillzah

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I have 3/8" metric sockets, I use the 3/8" impact when I'm working on my motorcycle. It seems to work just right for that application... Otherwise it's 1/2" on the cars or 1/4" on general stuff..
 

Tallpilot

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Yeah, but if you are invested in 1/2" impact sockets and dont have any 3/8" (like the OP)...

BOOOOOOM! (throws mic at protogeV...)

:lol_hitti JK about throwing the mic at you bro

This was the conclusion I came to. With 1/2” Nano and low profile sockets I am not sure where a 3/8” would reach that I can’t. I have at least $500 in 1/2” impact stuff and wouldn’t want to replicate that in 3/8” unless it gave me significant capability that I don’t have. It’s the same reason I haven’t pushed into 3/4” drive.
 

marineman

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I have 3/8 and 1/2 impacts at work. 3/8 is used way more often than the 1/2 but my use is different than your use and my guns aren't stubbies. I like the 3/8 because it's lighter, has less torque and it fits in smaller places. I have an MG325 and an MG725. At home I only have a 1/2 impact and get by.
 

2ndGearRubber

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If you don't feel the lack of 3/8 is limiting you, then you likely do not need it as a DIY tool user. I wouldn't think of giving up 3/8 impact stuff, but I make a living with mine. If I could only have one size, it would be 1/2 drive.

Part of me wants 3/4 drive stuff; but metric is hard/expensive to get, and I figure I'll just snap rusty stuff anyways. Bolt material failure is unpleasantly common in rusty areas.
 

2ndGearRubber

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Get the Astro stubby sockets, wobble extensions, and see how many things 1/2 drive can really reach. That's my go-to for obscured wheel bearing bolts. I have the IR stumpy gun, and am somewhat unimpressed. I use it mainly for re-assembly and to take strain off my wrist during tear-down of rusty/corroded stuff that would normally be 3/8 drive territory.
 
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mjs3350

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Thanks for all the replies everyone. This is my first thread here and you've all been very helpful.
 

Bobioz1

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3/8 drive has more stuff available. As in deep swivel impacts, spark plug sockets. You need all sizes for working on cars efficiently but 3/8 gets the most use.
 

speed bump

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The socket size is significantly smaller but otherwise I wouldn't worry about it until you start getting into projects where you wish you had it.

I didn't buy 3/8" impact sockets until I bought a battery impact and didn't feel like I was missing anything in my DIY projects.
 

Tonyuk

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I wouldn't bother with 3/8" impacts for the DIY, for years all of my impacts were 1/2" only in the last 2 years have i bought any in 3/8", and even then they are used pretty rarely compared to the 1/2" stuff.

My most used impact is the M18 1/2" compact, great piece of kit and very versatile. I'll take wheels off no problem as long as they were properly torqued to begin with, best paired with the 2ah battery imo.

IF you have a decent air set-up, then you cant go wrong with a good compact air impact. My compact facom 1/2" will get in more places than most 3/8" even from the big names, especially paired with a set of low profile sockets. More powerful too.

Recently Astro Pneumatic came out with a 3/8 compact that's the same size.

You can find sets of 1/2" impact sockets all day on amazon & ebay for pennies too.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MILWAUKE...=item4d830e3c35:g:mNMAAOSwwPRb~6wG:rk:55:pf:0

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-A...h=item25edcc57c4:g:9kQAAOSw5RRahVVv:rk:3:pf:0

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Facom-1-...h=item23a0fb9b1b:g:ppEAAOSwXfVakFjD:rk:2:pf:0

If you do decide to get a 3/8 i would recommend electric, i have both the snap-on 3/8 and the Milwaukee compact. The snap-on gets used more, purely for its trigger set-up. The Milwaukee is more powerful + MUCH cheaper.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MILWAUKE...=item4d844d3598:g:I5EAAOSwfBFbmQpj:rk:23:pf:0

https://browse.snapon.com/#/product/CT761AG
 

Ole Slewfoot

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I'll pull out a 3/8 and a half just to not switch sockets as much. I keep using it on my chrome harbor freight sockets hoping they'll die, but it isn't working.
 
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