header for 10' garage opening

[chuckd2]

Hey folks, slab has been poured and I'm getting antsy to get the framing lumber ordered, however, I'm a little hung up on how to go about the door opening headers. Its a 30' x 40' with two 10' wide door openings on a single 30' side. I'm working from plans generated with the CA program, and the framing plan shows 2 2x12s for each header. As far as I can tell from the IBC R602.7, this requires 3 2x12s.

I also have been spec'd a LVL for use that is a 2 ply, 3.5" x 5-1/2" deep. It appears that LVL offers some good qualities, however I'm considering what will be easier to assemble into the 2x6 wall. Using 3 2x12s seems straight forward. The only way I can think of that of would be to notch each 2x6s that goes between the header and the sill plate....is this the way it is typically done or is there a better/easier way?

If I could in fact use 2 2x12s, I see that using 2-1/2" rigid foam between the headers and screwing together makes a nice easy header. Am I inferring R602.7 correctly...I would need 3 2x12s? If so, I wonder why the CA program didn't get that part correct...

cheers

 

[chuckd2]

Oh yeah, I'm in NM and we rarely get snow where I live.

 

[Hank11]

It matters what is above the headers. And I'd want more support under the headers than what is in your drawing. You are also missing any shear resistance in that wall.

 

[mike93lx]

The wall doesn't get notched, the header sits on top of jackstuds. So the thickness of the header doesn't really matter from an ease of assembly standpoint. With that said, the weight matters from a handling perspective.

If a 3-ply 2x12 can really be replaced with a 2-ply 5.5" lvl, I know I would be doing the latter.

Regarding shear, read up on portal walls, if you haven't.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Is this your first framing project ?

Slab has by poured, but is there a curb or are you adding a stem wall ?

Which way are your trusses running ?

 

[TRWham]

https://www.apawood.org/portal-frames-made-right

 

[billconner]

Need to know how roof is framed to know if there is any load on headers. Portal frame much bigger issue.

 

[Hooked]

I used double 2x12 with 1/2" plywood spliced between them sitting on double 2x4s for a 12' garage door opening. 30x40 garage with trusses on 16" centers resting on the top plate. This was in 1978 and have zero sag on opening.

 

[jskicet]

On my detached with 2 10ft garage doors on 30 ft. They used 3 2x12's on 2x8 walls.

 

[chuckd2]

It matters what is above the headers. And I'd want more support under the headers than what is in your drawing. You are also missing any shear resistance in that wall.

It matters what is above the headers. And I'd want more support under the headers than what is in your drawing. You are also missing any shear resistance in that wall.

Ok, so you are saying 2 jack studs on each end of the header isnt enough? I thought code said only 2 were required.... How would shear resistance be added to this wall?

 

[chuckd2]

The wall doesn't get notched, the header sits on top of jackstuds. So the thickness of the header doesn't really matter from an ease of assembly standpoint. With that said, the weight matters from a handling perspective.

If a 3-ply 2x12 can really be replaced with a 2-ply 5.5" lvl, I know I would be doing the latter.

Regarding shear, read up on portal walls, if you haven't.

Thanks, I was referring to notching the vertical cripples at the bottom so the LVL would sit flush into the notch.

Yup, Im no longer considering using the 2x12s header, and will be using the LVLs for the 10' openings.

Is this wall considered a portal wall when each wall section to the side of the openings is almost 3'?

 

[chuckd2]

On my detached with 2 10ft garage doors on 30 ft. They used 3 2x12's on 2x8 walls.

Thanks for the picture, thats really motivating. Your building looks very similar to how mine will be.

That header design looks like another viable option as well.

Has anyone mentioned the shear resistance of the wall with the door openings and if the walls on the side of the large door openings are considered portal walls?

 

[mike93lx]

Thanks, I was referring to notching the vertical cripples at the bottom so the LVL would sit flush into the notch.

Yup, Im no longer considering using the 2x12s header, and will be using the LVLs for the 10' openings.

Is this wall considered a portal wall when each wall section to the side of the openings is almost 3'?

I am not sure what the threshold is for portal framing, but I think I would be treating it that way.

 

[chuckd2]

Is this your first framing project ?

Slab has by poured, but is there a curb or are you adding a stem wall ?

Which way are your trusses running ?

Yup, first this is my first.

No curb or stem wall, slab on grade with sill plate and gasket. This is a very dry climate where I live.

Trusses are running parallel with the door openings.

 

[TurnipTruck]

I am not sure what the threshold is for portal framing, but I think I would be treating it that way.

I always read it as “no engineering required if the door opening is less than 75% of the wall”.

 

[chuckd2]

Need to know how roof is framed to know if there is any load on headers. Portal frame much bigger issue.

It will be a parapet roof. Trusses 2' on center. I think there will be a truss over the sill plate on each 30' side, and I expect the gable end will be right up against it, I'm still working this out with the truss engineer, as I was originally going with a shed style roof, but decided a parapet roof since that is what my house has. If it was not considered a load bearing wall, where would the header requirements be found in the IBC?

Yes, after all the replies, I see that the portal frame is the big issue. When is it required to use a Portal frame? Can you refer me to the section of the IBC that addresses this?

 

[chuckd2]

I always read it as “no engineering required if the door opening is less than 75% of the wall”.

I wonder if having 2 door openings plays into that.... 20/30 is less than 75%, so maybe I'm good....

 

[chuckd2]

I am not sure what the threshold is for portal framing, but I think I would be treating it that way.

Ok, thanks. I will certainly carefully consider this.

 

[chuckd2]

https://www.apawood.org/portal-frames-made-right

Thanks for the link, that was very insightful. At this point, I think that regardless of if it is required by the code or not, I will use a Portal frame. We experience some really high winds where I live in NM.

Is a Portal frame required to be professionally engineered?

 

[TRWham]

Thanks for the link, that was very insightful. At this point, I think that regardless of if it is required by the code or not, I will use a Portal frame. We experience some really high winds where I live in NM.

Is a Portal frame required to be professionally engineered?

Generally no in my experience. If you follow the APA guidelines they are designed to be consistent with requirements in the IRC. Only if you could not follow those requirements would you need to get an engineer involved.

 

[billconner]

Most simply, you need a portal frame when you don't have a 4' braced panel - framing with a sheet of ply - every 20'.

You say IBC but I guess I've assumed it IRC. Is this at your residence or is this a commercial building. If commercial it requires registered design professionals - architects and/or engineers.

In the 2021 IRC - don't think different in 1 or 2 earlier editions - starts at R602.10.6.2 Method PFH: Portal frame with hold-downs. and continues to R602.10.6.4 - 3 methods. BUT your much better off with guide mentioned above or Simpson Strong tie and probably others. They have digested the code and made it simple.

Now, since roof joists or trusses are parallel to this wall, the wall is non-load bearing. Technically, you don't need a header, but most would put one in, and probably oversized. But just 2x4 framing sheathed would be fine. It supports nothing except the few square feet of wall above it and maybe jack shaft. I certainly wouldn't bother with expense of lvl but your choice.

What I'd end up with is a double 2x10 or 2x12 - double only for Jack shaft otherwise single - from double king stud to double king stud at corners of building - and we'll nailed sheathing for the portal frame.

 

[jskicet]

Thanks for the picture, thats really motivating. Your building looks very similar to how mine will be.

That header design looks like another viable option as well.

Has anyone mentioned the shear resistance of the wall with the door openings and if the walls on the side of the large door openings are considered portal walls?

An engineer designed the plans so I'm sure it's good to go. Also being constructed with 2x8 walls are covered with 10ft tall wall to boot. That total wall height is 14'.

 

[jskicet]

Also 1x12 log siding inside and out. We had to build the home/windows/detached garage to withstand 96 mph winds up here according to the code for the location. It does get windy up here at times! I've only seen around 55 mph so far.

 

[Hank11]

You’ve gotten some good advice. Especially the apa site. After you come up with a proper shear wall design, next look at how to brace it in and out - interior and exterior directions. You will have a nice building.

 

[chuckd2]

Generally no in my experience. If you follow the APA guidelines they are designed to be consistent with requirements in the IRC. Only if you could not follow those requirements would you need to get an engineer involved.

An engineer designed the plans so I'm sure it's good to go. Also being constructed with 2x8 walls are covered with 10ft tall wall to boot. That total wall height is 14'.

Damn! Thats a pretty stout building!

 

[chuckd2]

Most simply, you need a portal frame when you don't have a 4' braced panel - framing with a sheet of ply - every 20'.

You say IBC but I guess I've assumed it IRC. Is this at your residence or is this a commercial building. If commercial it requires registered design professionals - architects and/or engineers.

In the 2021 IRC - don't think different in 1 or 2 earlier editions - starts at R602.10.6.2 Method PFH: Portal frame with hold-downs. and continues to R602.10.6.4 - 3 methods. BUT your much better off with guide mentioned above or Simpson Strong tie and probably others. They have digested the code and made it simple.

Now, since roof joists or trusses are parallel to this wall, the wall is non-load bearing. Technically, you don't need a header, but most would put one in, and probably oversized. But just 2x4 framing sheathed would be fine. It supports nothing except the few square feet of wall above it and maybe jack shaft. I certainly wouldn't bother with expense of lvl but your choice.

What I'd end up with is a double 2x10 or 2x12 - double only for Jack shaft otherwise single - from double king stud to double king stud at corners of building - and we'll nailed sheathing for the portal frame.

I havent considered no header at all, but seeing how I dont meet the 4' braced panel, I am going to need the 2x12 header regardless. I could not find any header span ratings for non load bearing walls. I like your idea of using 2 2x12s, but I couldn't find any span ratings for non load bearing headers, would using 2 be up to code?

Double king stud to double king stud... you must use bolts for that.

I've spent some time coming up to speed on the requirements of the portal frames. I see now that 9' is the max door height, too bad since I was hoping for a 10' door. I'm going to reach out to the truss designer for my project and see if he is possiby able to come up with something he could put a stamp on.

 

[chuckd2]

Hey folks, slab has been poured and I'm getting antsy to get the framing lumber ordered, however, I'm a little hung up on how to go about the door opening headers. Its a 30' x 40' with two 10' wide door openings on a single 30' side. I'm working from plans generated with the CA program, and the framing plan shows 2 2x12s for each header. As far as I can tell from the IBC R602.7, this requires 3 2x12s.

I also have been spec'd a LVL for use that is a 2 ply, 3.5" x 5-1/2" deep. It appears that LVL offers some good qualities, however I'm considering what will be easier to assemble into the 2x6 wall. Using 3 2x12s seems straight forward. The only way I can think of that of would be to notch each 2x6s that goes between the header and the sill plate....is this the way it is typically done or is there a better/easier way?

If I could in fact use 2 2x12s, I see that using 2-1/2" rigid foam between the headers and screwing together makes a nice easy header. Am I inferring R602.7 correctly...I would need 3 2x12s? If so, I wonder why the CA program didn't get that part correct...

cheers

thanks everyone for getting me back on track and pointing out the bigger issue here. I've carefully went over the APA documents and the link that a member posted was very helpful as well. I think I've made the required changes and now should meet CS-PF requirements.

 

[chuckd2]

You’ve gotten some good advice. Especially the apa site. After you come up with a proper shear wall design, next look at how to brace it in and out - interior and exterior directions. You will have a nice building.

yup, definitely a lot of good advice here, I am very appreciative.

 

[chuckd2]

Also 1x12 log siding inside and out. We had to build the home/windows/detached garage to withstand 96 mph winds up here according to the code for the location. It does get windy up here at times! I've only seen around 55 mph so far.

Ah, no wonder 2x8 construction

 

[mike93lx]

Threads like this are great.

Someone asking for help, getting great advice, doing some learning on their own and then implementing it, but also coming back to confirm.

Please share progress as the building goes up. We love build threads

 

[chuckd2]

Threads like this are great.

Someone asking for help, getting great advice, doing some learning on their own and then implementing it, but also coming back to confirm.

Please share progress as the building goes up. We love build threads

yup, this site is a great resource, thanks to all!

 

[Sumboodie]

What exactly is a portal frame?

My building is 30ft wide, has 2 10x13.5 doors and a man door. Have maybe 1.5ft between the 2 doors.

I'm looking into tearing it out an putting a single 18x13.5 door, as 10ft doors are too narrow.

 

[chuckd2]

If it is a wood building, from what I've gathered, the braced wall sections are too narrow, and nowadays you would be required to use portal frames which increase the structural integrity of a narrow wall sections. I think you would be OK for a single 18' door if it wasn't positioned to closely to one side of the wall. There are a lot of variables that go into the minimum braced wall width, so you would have to look at the code closely.

 

[billconner]

A portal frame basically makes a really rigid connection between the vertical wall sections to sides and horizontal with header above. Anchorage to foundation help complete it.

 

[jskicet]

Ah, no wonder 2x8 construction

Plus you don't have a lip where it meets the 8 inch block.

 

[billconner]

I havent considered no header at all, but seeing how I dont meet the 4' braced panel, I am going to need the 2x12 header regardless. I could not find any header span ratings for non load bearing walls. I like your idea of using 2 2x12s, but I couldn't find any span ratings for non load bearing headers, would using 2 be up to code?

Just 2x4s and sheathing will span the 10' opening but sure, use a pair of 2x12s with 1/2 ply spacers. I'd figure out what was needed if anything to support door, and what made sense for rest of parapet wall. Literally a 2x4 frame covered with ply would be fine. Non-loadbearing basically means you don't need headers so you won't find a span table.

 

[Hank11]

Just 2x4s and sheathing will span the 10' opening but sure, use a pair of 2x12s with 1/2 ply spacers. I'd figure out what was needed if anything to support door, and what made sense for rest of parapet wall. Literally a 2x4 frame covered with ply would be fine. Non-loadbearing basically means you don't need headers so you won't find a span table.

It’ll be floppy in and out. And droopy if the sheathing comes loose There is still the need for a proper header.

 

[billconner]

It’ll be floppy in and out. And droopy if the sheathing comes loose There is still the need for a proper header.

The roof diaphragm would keep it from being "floppy in and out". If the sheathing comes loose, lots more problems than this piece.

Looking again at drawing in o.p. I'd sure try to make those cripples continuous to top plate of parapet, and eliminate the hinge joint.