Header for 18' Door??

[Hypnotic3650]

Hi guys, looking for some opinions on a Header size for above the garage door. The Garage is a 28x32 with a 4" curb. This door will be on the 28' side, non load bearing. It's an 18x8 door. Was planning dual 18' 9" long x 11 7/8 tall LVL's back to back sitting on 1 jack stud on the floor and 2 more up on the curb and then a king stud per side. Does this sound sufficient? Also on the complete opposite side there will be a 32" entry door in the other non load bearing wall. Should I just double up on the top 2x4 for a header or go with a 2x6? Any help is much appreciated I'm very new to wood working of any sort and thought a garage would be a great way to learn. I've already got the concrete done now just trying to put it all together.

Thanks,
Adam

 

[usa#1]

Check the building supply houses. Most will size it for you if you purchase it from them. You'll need the paperwork anyway if it's going to be inspected. The calc they give you will show the support requirements for the beam. Also typically it's better to position the beam flush with the top plate of the wall and them frame down cripples to make the required opening door height.

 

[csp]

Also typically it's better to position the beam flush with the top plate of the wall and them frame down cripples to make the required opening door height.

This^^^


My 18' door has triple LVLs, but I don't recall the dimension of the height of them.

 

[JohnX14]

Check the building supply houses. Most will size it for you if you purchase it from them. You'll need the paperwork anyway if it's going to be inspected. The calc they give you will show the support requirements for the beam. Also typically it's better to position the beam flush with the top plate of the wall and them frame down cripples to make the required opening door height.

I agree that the building supplier can give you true LVL specs. Though what the OP describes should be adequate. I don't agree that it is better to place them at top plate height. It would work fine, but that is not the standard framing practice and you would be relying on nails or some fastners to keep the top of the door casing from sagging.

 

[sublimate]

I don't agree that it is better to place them at top plate height.

The first time someone tries to drive something in there that is a few inches too high it'll seem better.

 

[usa#1]

" I don't agree that it is better to place them at top plate height. It would work fine, but that is not the standard framing practice and you would be relying on nails or some fastners to keep the top of the door casing from sagging.

.


I don't know it applies to this case, but if the header is framed down when it's load bearing, there is typically a requirement to brace the top of the header to prevent out of plane movement. The bracing requirements are shown on the header data sheets. Putting the header flush with the top plate typically eliminates the requirement for addtional bracing.

 

[JohnX14]

An opening as described would likely be a shear wall and there will be a lot of design considerations to be made. I wasn't making any specific statements, more of a general statement. I'm also in a an area that typically sheaths with structural wood panels. A lot of standard practices vary throughout the country.

 

[Hypnotic3650]

Engineer? I am my engineer. Here in the sticks of Iowa you get a permit, you build it, and they half *** inspect it and call it good. I really hope the 11 7/8 LVL's are the ticket.

 

[wanderer]

I'm less worried about the weight of the building above the door than I am the forces of the door itself twisting the header.

 

[Slednut]

My dad and I built a garage that has an 18x8 door. We went to a salvage yard and bought a 6" I-beam and used it for a header.

The biggest problem was the door would sag if it was left opened too long. If we were going to leave it open for a day we would prop it up with a 2x2.

 

[2drx4]

The first time someone tries to drive something in there that is a few inches too high it'll seem better.

That seems like a terrible justification for framing something backwards

If you're going to do that, might as well put a taller door in so nobody drives into it anyways

Either way, if it's a roll up door, you probably want to put the LVL where the brackets for the spring will go.

 

[xyster101]

I have the same as you. 18' opening on a gable end. I did 2 LVL's at 11 7/8" if I recall. 84 lumber speced out how big it needed to be.

 

[Average_Joe]

According to IRC 2009 table R603.7(1), you will need 4 jack studs and 4 king studs. As for the lvl sizing, I would let the engineer/lumber yard handle that.

 

[bczygan]

Hi guys, looking for some opinions on a Header size for above the garage door. The Garage is a 28x32 with a 4" curb. This door will be on the 28' side, non load bearing. It's an 18x8 door. Was planning dual 18' 9" long x 11 7/8 tall LVL's back to back sitting on 1 jack stud on the floor and 2 more up on the curb and then a king stud per side. Does this sound sufficient? Also on the complete opposite side there will be a 32" entry door in the other non load bearing wall. Should I just double up on the top 2x4 for a header or go with a 2x6? Any help is much appreciated I'm very new to wood working of any sort and thought a garage would be a great way to learn. I've already got the concrete done now just trying to put it all together.

Thanks,
Adam

There are different grades (strengths) of LVL's, and your sizing doesn't specify which one. Cost and availability of the different grades are factors that will help determine which is the right choice..

Also, what are the loads?

And what area are you in? Seismic? Snow loads? Wind loads?

 

[sublimate]

That seems like a terrible justification for framing something backwards

You haven't seen the way I drive...

 

[Hypnotic3650]

The biggest loaf there will ever be on it will be 12" of snow at the most. So 2 king studs? This is going to be a mess. I'm sure I'm making it out to be a lot more difficult than it needs to be just like with everything but its not something I want to have to mess with in the future.

 

[Justanoldguy]

He is an engineer.

I doubt he was serious about that.
If he was, then why is he even asking those who are only guessing.

 

[Average_Joe]

The biggest loaf there will ever be on it will be 12" of snow at the most. So 2 king studs? This is going to be a mess. I'm sure I'm making it out to be a lot more difficult than it needs to be just like with everything but its not something I want to have to mess with in the future.

According to IRC 2009 table R603.7(1), you will need 4 jack studs and 4 king studs. As for the lvl sizing, I would let the engineer/lumber yard handle that.

I have a 16' opening with a double lvl and I used 4 jack and 4 kings. This is what code calls for, why would you use less? 2x4s are cheap.

 

[Hypnotic3650]

I like how you think average Joe!

 

[fury9]

You'll be fine, be sure to 1/2" carriage bolt them together, 2 on each end then stagger them every 16 inches. I go an inch and a half from the top and bottom edge and about 3" in from the ends. Nail it tight together with 16d nails first before you go crazy with the nail gun. Some of them have engineered crowns in them so make sure you put the crown up if there is one.

 

[fury9]

Make sure you figure in the rough opening for your 3/4" 1X jamb material!

 

[Hypnotic3650]

3/4 x 1? I was going to use 2x6 and wrap it in aluminum or maybe vinyl. What's the preferred choice on this?

 

[fury9]

I like to use a 1x6 for the jamb that matches your exterior, the metal will get dinged and scratched up pretty easy and look like ****

 

[Justanoldguy]

Well, I for one, are NOT in the habit of running
into my jambs when I go in and out of the garage.
Who else does this?

 

[brad900]

I also have a 28x32. My door is 20'. I have 3 32' 11 7/8 lvl per my engineer

 

[tcianci]

If it's on a gable end and non load bearing, then why are you installing a LVL? I have been framing stuff for 40 years an it amazes meme that folks put all this material and support into a structural element that has no purpose. You did not mention whether or not the door header will be supporting the floor structure of the 2nd level of the building but from what I read I'm assuming it's not. It's a great idea to install a header as a force bearing member for the garage door hardware and electric operator but that opening still has no load over it so a LVL is a total mis-application of the product.

As an aside, buildings are framed to take advantage of gravity when ever they can. installing a structural header and then down-framing to the desired opening is bass ackwards and relies of placement of fasteners and shear value of the sheathing to hold the top of the opening together.

 

[youwish2bme]

I have a 18' door and there is a triple 24" LVL spanning 24' with four 2x6 jack studs supporting it....

Hitch

 

[Hypnotic3650]

I got it put up last night. Ended up with 2 jack studs on each side and 1 king stud so far but I'm going to whack another one on each side today. The LVL stops 3/16" short of the top plate so I'm going to put some 3/16" lattice board in there to fill the gap. Seems like it'll be pretty solid. Why would you NOT use an LVL for this? It's prefectly straight and so tough. I have a 8 foot 2x10 for the header above my walk-in door and that thing has some serious twist to it, I can't imagine have one of those that's 20 foot long! Probably be at a 90 degree angle by the time it got to the other side.