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header for a 16' garage door?

redline9k

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Mar 22, 2010
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56
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St Louis, MO
I have a 2 car garage with separate single doors that I would like to convert to a single 16' door.

Currently, the header is (2) 2x12s with spacers in the middle (so its 3.5" wide), with a middle column, and single jack studs on each end for support.

Pretty sure this isnt acceptable for a single 16' run if I remove the center support. I would expect code is probably dependent on my area, but I was curious what you have for supporting a single 16' door?
 
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Trey T

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Aug 3, 2011
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Houston, TX
you should take some photos associated with the load(s) that the beam is carrying. Take some measurements of what's above the beam.
 

sleek98

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Kansas City, MO
Really depends on what is above the garage door. A ranch home can get away with less of a beam than a 2 story with a level above the garage.
 

Jo Diesel

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Aug 26, 2015
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St. Johns MI
Why would you go from 2 down to 1. It puts your cars to close together. My dad has a single and I think it is a PIA. My garage has 2 9'x7' and 2' in between. I would never hear the end if I put a door dent in her Caddy
 

LB-1911

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Sep 24, 2011
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Northwestern Il.
I have a 2 car garage with separate single doors that I would like to convert to a single 16' door.

Currently, the header is (2) 2x12s with spacers in the middle (so its 3.5" wide), with a middle column, and single jack studs on each end for support.

Pretty sure this isnt acceptable for a single 16' run if I remove the center support. I would expect code is probably dependent on my area, but I was curious what you have for supporting a single 16' door?

:see:

Really depends on what is above the garage door. A ranch home can get away with less of a beam than a 2 story with a level above the garage.

Also need to know -

Overall width of your garage?
Doors on the gable end or under the eaves?

Your correct in the belief that what is required will be dependent on the location of the structure.
 
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R

redline9k

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Mar 22, 2010
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St Louis, MO
ah yes, important details. ill post a pic later so you dont have to read all of this....

the total garage is 18' wide interior wall to interior wall. The problem now is that ive got two single doors with just under 1' space between the two. Header does need to support the trusses (which run perpendicular), but only the roof load (no second story).

the garage is behind the house, so parking currently requires a 3pt turn. Having just bought a larger car, now the door closest to the house requires a 5pt turn because the house extends directly along the wall of the garage so you have to pull in completely straight, lest you rub either the house, or the center support. Its a little ridiculous, and I used to valet, so id like to think ive got it down as best as possible.

I was hoping by getting rid of the center support, the person closest to the house (me) wouldnt have to do a 5pt turn. The garage is deep, so we'd be able to pull in on a slight angle and straighten it out once we get parked. Also, as it stands, each of us have only about 2-3" to play with between the side of each single door and the side view mirrors of each car.
 
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hogdaddy

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May 1, 2015
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Alabama
I did something similar a while back and used double (3.5 " wide w/no spacer) 14" LVL beams.
 
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sleek98

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Aug 9, 2016
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Kansas City, MO
What is the depth of the garage and how tall is the garage? Need to see if there is enough room to put a taller LVL or if you will need to go with a thicker shorter beam.
 
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redline9k

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Mar 22, 2010
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St Louis, MO
Ahh pictures.

looks like the header could be up to 17" tall.

IMG_1198_zpspcmsfivk.jpg


IMG_1196_zpspwu7ahaf.jpg
 
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sleek98

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Aug 9, 2016
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Kansas City, MO
Assuming 20 live load and 15 dead load and your garage is under 32 foot deep. The LVL charts call for a double 11-7/8" LVL for a 16ft opening so if it was me I would go with the double 14" for a what is less than 30-50 bucks more.
 

jetnow1

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Jun 27, 2016
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Location
CT.
Assuming 20 live load and 15 dead load and your garage is under 32 foot deep. The LVL charts call for a double 11-7/8" LVL for a 16ft opening so if it was me I would go with the double 14" for a what is less than 30-50 bucks more.

I would also put double jack studs at each end.
 

sleek98

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Aug 9, 2016
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Kansas City, MO
Yes, as jet now said do double jack studs on the ends, I assumed they did that with your current header but now that I looked a little closer it kind of only looks like one.

You can go to home depot to have them price out the beam cost at the pro desk, or go to a menards if you have them on that side of MO.

Just looked at menards and its 70.35 per 11 7/8" or 78.68 per 14" for a 17 foot beam. So about 17 bucks more to oversize it a tad.
 
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mattoehler

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May 16, 2015
Messages
35
Professional contractor and carpenter here. Minimum Jack studs would be two per side. If you have no living space above that should be just fine. If you feel better doing three per side go for it!! Double up your king studs for sure, helps eliminate lateral deflection. Double 14" lvl, as a minimum, should also be what you use. I like to use glue lams when I can, slightly more $ but they are structurally stronger than lvl. Example why these options are great, My parents house has a garage built in the early 70's. 16ft garage door, double 2x10 header, been just fine for 40 years. Oh, and it's in Minnesota where there is actual snow load. Hope this helps!

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
 

BillK

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Aug 24, 2006
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9,310
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Beautiful Southern Maryland
Red,
Both the attached garage on my house and my detached 24x24 that I built have a double 2x12 header over the 16' door. Both are on the gable ends of the garage and have had no issues what so ever.
 

bczygan

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Nov 4, 2009
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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
Using 1.9E LVL's and assuming a depth of garage at 30' or less, a double 1 3/4 x 11 1/4 beam will support a #30 total load to L/240.

You want to use a doubled LVL to keep height down and use the available lateral space on the 2x4 wall framing.

Those using dimensional lumber, IE 2x12's for this span under a gable end do NOT have the additional roof loads from trusses bearing on the beam, that you have, so that solution is inadequate.

Also take a look at using a shear panel inside and out for that short piece of wall to the left of the opening.

Bill
 
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