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Headlight cleaning kit besides the 450 dollar 3m?

signcrafter

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I know this has been discussed before but usually its for the one time use kits. Which are what I've been using but at 25 bucks or so a pop it adds up and I would think there is a better kit for 100-150 bucks that will do multiple sets of lights? This 3M kit is 450 bucks but comes with a sander and polisher and a bunch of the sandpaper and stuff, https://www.tooltopia.com/3m-automo...toNxHOQ292znoQtq2LISg0us4DvBBk8gaAhLpEALw_wcB. Don't really want to spend that much but wouldn't mind spending a few bucks to get a "kit" of some sort together since I'm sure it would be cheaper then buying individual kits everytime someone needs headlights done.

I see astro pneumatic has a kit also but it doesn't have sandpaper and stuff. Looks like just polishes, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XMJ4YI/?tag=atomicindus08-20. So not sure it would do as good of a job as the 3M kits that have sandpaper and polishes.

The 3M one comes with a sander and a buffer and from what I can tell they run at different speeds and you need both to do a good job. Although the individual kits only use a cordless drill so not sure if both sander and buffer are needed? Or if I could just buy the pads and compounds and use a drill or something? Or is there a different air tool I can use with the pads?

Anyone find a kit for doing multiple lights without having to drop 500 bucks? Anyone piece together a kit? I do a handful every year for family and friends and it would be nice to put together a kit so I have the stuff and should be cheaper then always buying the 25 dollar 3M kits. But at the same time I'm not doing this as a business so don't really want to drop 500 bucks on a kit that might take years to pay for.
 
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astroracer

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Pull the headlight. Put an 800 grit disc on your 3M soft pad and sand it until it is all opaque. Clean it with some degreaser, mask off the back side if necessary and spray a couple of wet coats of clear on it. Any clear will work but I have found a BC/CC type to work very well. DuPont in a rattle can works well also. Once dry you can reinstall the headlight, done. A couple of bucks if you have to buy a can of clear. :) One can will probably do 15 or 20 headlights... As will one disc. Cheap enough wouldn't you say?

I did the same thing with the aftermarket tail lights in my truck. I painted the blackout stripe around the perimeter white to match the truck. Sanded the whole light and, when it was cleared it went entirely clear, better then original.
100_0106-vi.jpg

Just a note: The tail lights were painted 16 years ago... nothing has been done to them since. :)
Mark.
 
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shelteredV

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Pull the headlight. Put an 800 grit disc on your 3M soft pad and sand it until it is all opaque. Clean it with some degreaser, mask off the back side if necessary and spray a couple of wet coats of clear on it. Any clear will work but I have found a BC/CC type to work very well. DuPont in a rattle can works well also. Once dry you can reinstall the headlight, done. A couple of bucks if you have to buy a can of clear. :)
Mark

Yup^^^ or you can use a prevail sprayer and add a couple drops of black to tint it a smidge. Did it to my V and it looks great.
 

Chevy350

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Can clear spray paint and some sand paper

I second this method. Have done this method on 3 cars with great results! My current car has gone two years with this method and still holding strong. I do keep a coat of wax on the lights now though.
 
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signcrafter

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Did a pair yesterday and used a 3M kit with the 500, 800, 3000 trizact pads and then a buffing pad and compound. Wiped off with rubbing alcohol like the video said and then sprayed some duplicolor clear on it really didn't turn out good. When I was done with the 3m kit it looked good but after spraying clear it was hazy. Not sure if it was the paint or orange peel or because I used rubbing compound and the alcohol didn't get it all off and it reacted with the paint or what the deal was but I ended up redoing everything. Ended up using some blue magic headlight sealer that you wipe on and it says it protects against uv.

Next time I think I might do the sanding and skip the buffing step and then try spraying again.

Need to find a source for decent hook and loop 3" pads for a reasonable price. To get 500,800, 1000, and 3000 is around 200 bucks and come in boes of 50 for the 500 and 800 and 15 for the 1000 and 3000.
 

shawndp

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We use the Wipe New Headlight Restore on used cars we sell that need to look a little fresh and the results are usually positive.
 

850xpeps

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I use dish soap and warm
Water and start with 1000 grit wet dry an then 1500 perpendicular and the 2000 perpendicular to that. Then plastic polish and drill with a buffing wheel.
 

astroracer

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You are making it too difficult. When clearing you don't have to do anything other then the 800 grit. If you look back at my tail light pic that is ALL I did, 800 grit, wax and grease remover and clear.
Alcohol will not remove the polishing compound and that is where the haziness is coming from. Wax and grease remover, Prep-Sol, Pre-Kleeno, etc. will get the contaminants off. use it before and after sanding. Do not get your oily finger prints on the part either.
Mark
 
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astroracer

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I have to agree the toothpaste does work BUT, it provides zero UV protection and you will be repolishing in a few months. Clearing after sanding provides the UV protection needed to keep the plastic from yellowing again. :)
Mark
 
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signcrafter

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You are making it too difficult. When clearing you don't have to do anything other then the 800 grit. If you look back at my tail light pic that is ALL I did, 800 grit, wax and grease remover and clear.
Alcohol will not remove the polishing compound and that is where the haziness is coming from. Wax and grease remover, Prep-Sol, Pre-Kleeno, etc. will get the contaminants off. use it before and after sanding. Do not get your oily finger prints on the part either.
Mark

I had the 3M kit already so went ahead and used it. Figured I could use that and then clear like you said. But guessing the spray turned out like it did because of the polishing compound like you are saying. I will try just sanding and spraying net time and see what happens. Wish I had some bad lenses laying around to practice on now.
 

hautpot

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would this technique fix a headlight with tons of tiny rock chips? My headlights aren't yellow or anything.
 

American Locomotive

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My budget headlight kit is simple:

I gradually wet sand them going from 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200 grit. Then I just take normal Mothers mag/aluminum wheel polish, and polish the plastic. Works great.
 
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signcrafter

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My budget headlight kit is simple:

I gradually wet sand them going from 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200 grit. Then I just take normal Mothers mag/aluminum wheel polish, and polish the plastic. Works great.

But how long does it last since you took off all the UV coating and didn't put anymore on?
 

American Locomotive

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But how long does it last since you took off all the UV coating and didn't put anymore on?
In my experience it lasts about a year before it starts hazing over. Not really big deal to me. I can spare 20 minutes of time once a year. You could probably put some kind of UV blocking clear coat on it and get it to last longer.
 

gregpack

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For UV protection I used a 50/50 mix of spar urethane and mineral spirits. I found the recipe on the internet. I swabbed it on with a paper towel and it looked pretty good. I sold the car, so I can't testify to its' long term effectiveness, but it was supposedly good for 2 yrs plus.

this video shows the technique, starting at about the 7 minute mark

 
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COL911

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Virginia Beach VA
After polishing, whichever method you use, clear vinyl sheets(sold on eBay), completely stop reoxidation of the lens. Lens with complex curves are a pain, but headlights I polished up to two.years ago are still clear under the vinyl. Cheap, too on eBay.
 
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