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headlight replacement

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billconner

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2018 Subaru Outback. Left DRL is not working. The little strip above main headlights. Dealer says $1100. $900 part and $200 labor. Supervisor said I might find a non-oem for as little as $500. It is all of the lighting in that corner.

I may poke around and see if I can find any loose connections or like but seems unlikely.

Any suggestions? I can afford it but sure would like to find a good but less expensive solution.
 
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75gmck25

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Is there an accessible connector you can unplug, and then check to see its getting voltage when the lights are on? It's an expensive part to replace if the problem is really just a chafed or broken wire.

The other possibility is an issue with the body control computer in the car. In many new cars the lights are not switched directly, but are managed through the computer.
 
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gba2331

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DRL isn’t required for inspection in VA so I’ve never bothered to replace my ^%&5# "headlight assembly"
 
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billconner

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zendriver said:
Is this it?

Subaru Outback Sealed Beam Headlight. Lens and Body Head - 84913AL04A | Royal Subaru, Bloomington IN

Sealed Beam Headlight. Lens and Body Head Lamp (Right). Subaru Outback. Genuine Subaru Part - 84913AL04A. Ships from Royal Subaru, Bloomington IN
parts.royaleastsubaru.com

$200 labor? :sad:
Click to expand...
When I click "confirm this fits" find it does not fit my 2018 Outback GT.


I looked under the hood and lots of other things to remove and put back. I think it's 1 hour of technician time. And the service guy who apologized before telling me price, did at end offer 10% off.

There are besides two halogen lights a strip of LED and a turn signal, a lot of chrome and clear, and motors as the lights focus and I think turn. (Like the '48 Tucker.)

I've only started to search for sources and YouTube's to diy. And struggling with the OEM vs aftermarket vs junkyard/used idea - and lean towards OEM but a used one from a junkyard and the process of removing it to learn how has some appeal. Of course taking it in for 6 month check up next week and driving out with headlight fixed has some appeal as well.


Thank you all for sharing your thoughts!
 
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billconner

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75gmck25 said:
Is there an accessible connector you can unplug, and then check to see its getting voltage when the lights are on? It's an expensive part to replace if the problem is really just a chafed or broken wire.

The other possibility is an issue with the body control computer in the car. In many new cars the lights are not switched directly, but are managed through the computer.
Click to expand...
Have planned to check this. Right side works so thinking computer is fine. Do plan to look for loose wiring. Maybe should ask dealer if they did anybody that.

Also bil suggested trying local body shop. I did find what represented itself as OEM and fitting for around $500 and thought body shop might install it, doubt dealer would. They also might have sources and knowledge of after
market options. At 7 years and 100,000 miles OEM might not be worth the additional cost.
 
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mike93lx

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cgrutt

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There may be a resistor pack that controls the DLR. May need to replace or loose connection? I understand if you disconnect connector to the resistor block it will disable DRL both sides. The pack should be located behind one of the headlights.

Should look something like this.

a_20160622_1232238986.jpg
 
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billconner

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cgrutt said:
There may be a resistor pack that controls the DLR. May need to replace or loose connection? I understand if you disconnect connector to the resistor block it will disable DRL both sides. The pack should be located behind one of the headlights.

Should look something like this.

a_20160622_1232238986.jpg
Click to expand...
Resistor pack different from an LED driver? LEDs don't usually fail but drivers do. That was my thought but everything looks sealed in its own plastic case. Will investigate under hood later today.
 
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cgrutt

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billconner said:
Resistor pack different from an LED driver? LEDs don't usually fail but drivers do. That was my thought but everything looks sealed in its own plastic case. Will investigate under hood later today.
Click to expand...
Sorry that resistor module may only be on vehicles with halogen lights I'm not sure if the DRL are LED.
 
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zendriver

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mike93lx said:
At a dealer, that's what, 1.25 hrs? Lots of cars require removal of bumper covers to get to lights
Click to expand...
Fair enough, guess luckily I'm stuck in the past. Some are a nightmare.

I just removed both my passenger side headlight assemblies on '01 Silverado in literally under two minutes. The newer trucks are more a chore to deal with. Even the '14 Highlander comes right out.

Remember when the Malibu went from simple to removing the bumper, for access.
 
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Lou's Garage

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If you do go aftermarket, look for CAPA certified. It should be a match to OEM specifications, possibly made by the OEM supplier.

Lou Manglass
 
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Wrench97

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billconner

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Chuckster in NJ said:
You can find out more information at a dedicated forum like: www.subaruoutback.org
Click to expand...
Interesting but not simple. Some one looking for same part but then adds "I want to do the diode dynamics c- light switchback turn signal upgrade so I want brand new or pretty close." Like what are they talking about?

My bil who is pretty good at this stuff could not find a YouTube on how to replace this assembly.

Thinking either ignore it, pay dealer, or find a junk yard and learn how to hands on removing it. Will check with local body shop.
 
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Chuckster in NJ

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billconner said:
Interesting but not simple. Some one looking for same part but then adds "I want to do the diode dynamics c- light switchback turn signal upgrade so I want brand new or pretty close." Like what are they talking about?

My bil who is pretty good at this stuff could not find a YouTube on how to replace this assembly.

Thinking either ignore it, pay dealer, or find a junk yard and learn how to hands on removing it. Will check with local body shop.
Click to expand...
I feel your pain!…..….. We had a Lexus LS460 that was like a puzzle to access certain areas to do a simple repair and I always found the "Brand Specific" forums to be very handy and full of knowledge.
When I changed to rear struts on the Lexus basically the rear seat area had to be removed and when you had to change a headlight bulb the front bumper had to be removed along with other components.
it sux that you have to go back to the stealership for simple repairs.
Subaru's are "weird cars" to work on according to a few indy mechanics but they are dependable.

BTW! The "switchback LED bulb" is a single bulb that changes colors…….. EG: normal white color while running and when you apply voltage to the third wire it changes to yellow and the "switches back" to white after the third wire is de energized. These bulbs are used on clear lens taillights or headlights.
 
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Wrench97

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billconner said:
Interesting but not simple. Some one looking for same part but then adds "I want to do the diode dynamics c- light switchback turn signal upgrade so I want brand new or pretty close." Like what are they talking about?

My bil who is pretty good at this stuff could not find a YouTube on how to replace this assembly.

Thinking either ignore it, pay dealer, or find a junk yard and learn how to hands on removing it. Will check with local body shop.
Click to expand...
Removing the bumper cover is the biggest part of the job, the headlight itself will have 3 or4 bolts and a couple of wire connectors.

1750017239974.png
 
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