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heat for garage

Scout3918

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Feb 6, 2017
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343
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Southern Indiana
I have a 30x40x10 insulated garage. no ceiling and probably will not put one in for few years. I know loose lot heat in rafters. But right now like get some heat.

I am leaning toward propane gas. I don't have access to Natural gas and don't want use wood stove. Not sure what size tank I need. I'd like to fill it once a year and be done with it. I figure Gas company can help me in that area.

any suggestions place, heater type, model numbers and size etc. is be greatly appreciated.

I've attached couple pictures of my garage. the doors are also insulated.

thank you
 

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garagelogician

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Blaine, MN
You could staple some poly to the rafters, that would help a lot if you are only heating it temporarily while you are out there. If you are going to heat it all the time, that would cost you a fortune without proper insulation.

I would probably get a 60,000 BTU heater, that should be plenty. Most guys mount them in a corner up by the ceiling, opposite the door. Once you decide on a size, your gas company can help you with tank sizing.
 
OP
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Scout3918

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Feb 6, 2017
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Southern Indiana
You could staple some poly to the rafters, that would help a lot if you are only heating it temporarily while you are out there. If you are going to heat it all the time, that would cost you a fortune without proper insulation.

I would probably get a 60,000 BTU heater, that should be plenty. Most guys mount them in a corner up by the ceiling, opposite the door. Once you decide on a size, your gas company can help you with tank sizing.

Sorry for being naïve. but you mean "proper" insulation as ceiling or more insulation than what I already have? it has "bubble wrap" and insulated doors now.

thanks again
 

PWC Repair

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Arkansas
Propane is expensive when used in anything but heavily insulated areas. If I were doing that in your area, I would go with a ventless propane unit. Staple heavy plastic like they use under the concrete to keep the heat from rising up. Hang a commercial type oscillating fan on the wall up high over the heater to move the air around. A 500 gallon tank should be enough to keep the temp mild all season.
 

Showkey

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Propane is cheap compared to electric in most areas. No matter the fuel choice insulation and sealing the envelope is critical.
Ventless might be the worst idea .......ever.........moisture and toxicity are the two main issues.
 

PWC Repair

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Ventless might be the worst idea .......ever.........moisture and toxicity are the two main issues.

I don't see how he would have either one until its sealed up. Way too drafty right now to cause those issues. In the future, when it's all finished, sell the cheapo ventless and go 90+ furnace.
 

Showkey

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I don't see how he would have either one until its sealed up. Way too drafty right now to cause those issues. In the future, when it's all finished, sell the cheapo ventless and go 90+ furnace.


Unsealed building that ventless heater moisture will condense and be dripping ( raining) for the under side of the roof in one or two days of operation......:scared:

Then the OP will another of the dozens of posts.........why is ceiling dripping wet........
 
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Scout3918

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Southern Indiana
Unsealed building that ventless heater moisture will condense and be dripping ( raining) for the under side of the roof in one or two days of operation......:scared:

Then the OP will another of the dozens of posts.........why is ceiling dripping wet........

So I guessing I should bite the bullet and put a ceiling in first? should I put Particle board or something on walls too? ands more insulation between walls and current bubble wrap?
 
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BuffettFan

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You can never have too much insulation.
I agree with the others that even some poly for a ceiling is a very good idea and that unvented will cause moisture issues.
 

dmcintosh

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Jul 24, 2013
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Location
Smyrna, DE
IMO, more insulation is always better. I ended up going with R-19 in the walls and about R-30 in the ceiling. My walls are done with fiberglass batts and the ceiling was blown fiberglass. Both are finished with drywall. I agree with the others, that until the building is sealed and insulated, you may waste a lot of your heating dollars until you insulate.
 

Tj-gord

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Jan 26, 2017
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Location
Northern alberta
Insulate and vapour barrier the ceiling, if not you will just be dumping your heat out the roof.i have the same size garage, we added a ceiling fan also to move the heat down. Insulating thevceilng for us was about 1000 to 1200 canadian.. r40 and 6mil poly. You being in a warmer climate could maybe get away with r20 if cost is a factor.
 
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Scout3918

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Feb 6, 2017
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Southern Indiana
I really hate showing my ignorance but....my garage is insulated with "bubble wrap insulation". I now assuming that is not what I want or should have went with? see pictures in my OP.

thanks again
 

ewang

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Dec 9, 2009
Messages
75
Location
Central WI
Honestly, without decent insulation, you might as well just put a bullet heater in there.

If you install any heater to maintain a temp of 40*, you are going to burn a lot of $$$ in propane, fuel oil, electricity. Your soffits are open and the bubble wrap insulation is almost insignificant.

I recommend at least r-13 walls and r-19 minimum for ceiling along with a vapor barrier before you even think about installing a hanging heater.

Also, why not get all of the insulation and wallboard up before you fill the shop with gear?
 
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