It's been running between 50-60% the last couple days when I check it.
I just double checked, Aux heat is locked out unless it's below 10 degrees outside.
I just can't get over how much warmer it feels in here though.
Heat pumps....
- Thread starter jshillin
- Start date
It's been running between 50-60% the last couple days when I check it.
I just double checked, Aux heat is locked out unless it's below 10 degrees outside.
I just can't get over how much warmer it feels in here though.
having that constant heat eliminates the cold drafts w/o adding any costs.
Once the temp desired is achieved -- the max comfort is to supply the heat load needed. That's why people keep saying don't get too big a heater for a garage -- spend the money on insulation and the proper heater size .... maintain a set temp. It's the most comfortable and cost effective.
6768rogues
Banned
I just bought new systems for both my NY and my FL houses. I did not want to go above 16 SEER because higher have too many new unproven expensive proprietary parts that a repairman would probably not have on his truck or readily available. From what I calculated, the cost to upgrade would be hard to reasonably recoup. If you want one because you are curious and do not mind expensive repairs, go for it.
I alternate among 3 places, so I chose to buy new for increased reliability when I am not at any one place for a while.
I alternate among 3 places, so I chose to buy new for increased reliability when I am not at any one place for a while.
The high efficiency units are about comfort .. yes, they save some money .. but it's comfort. The payback never happens ... they match the heat loss.
The high jump in cost is when they go to full modulation .. often only 19. .. but the comfort level between the single speed 16's and the full VS 19's is huge.
I may have spent a little more money on the Inverter unit, but the comfort level has been a game changer so far. It was about a 2k increase to go from standard 16 SEER to 18 SEER Inverter, but in that 2k I also had a humidifier, 2nd return added and plenum replaced.
Another question for you guys, what humidity to you aim for over the winter? I have it set now where it stays between 35%-40% humidity and to only come on when the heat runs. I can set it higher where the blower will come on to add humidity if I set it at higher levels. Debating on whether it's worth it to change the settings so it runs longer and shoot for over 40% humidity.
Another question for you guys, what humidity to you aim for over the winter? I have it set now where it stays between 35%-40% humidity and to only come on when the heat runs. I can set it higher where the blower will come on to add humidity if I set it at higher levels. Debating on whether it's worth it to change the settings so it runs longer and shoot for over 40% humidity.
I have mine set for 40%, but with an auto-derating based on outdoor temp. currently, my house is too leaky to ever achieve 40%, sits around 30%. as it warms up my furnace runs less so i have less time to humidify. Mine is a bypass, and it accomplishes virtually nothing without the heat on (tried it with fan only, not worth 1% overnight).
Thanks, that makes me feel better about it and I'll leave it set where it only comes on with the heat.
Wanted to add something else... When I was doing my research, I couldn't find out how low this inverter unit would modulate down to. Now that the temps have been getting in the 40's around here it has been modulating down to 25%.
If anyone wonders, I'm still very happy with my decision to go with this setup!!
If anyone wonders, I'm still very happy with my decision to go with this setup!!
The ability to go down to 25% of capacity was why I went with the Carrier 5 speed instead of the more costly Greenspeed. The Greenspeed uses a scroll compressor -- full modulating -- only goes down to 40%. Watching my 5 speed it spends a lot of time down in 1st stage ... especially in the summer. The Carrier 5 speed is a Toshiba rotary .. your Amana is listed as a swing. Both common mini-split compressors.
If your unit can work under 10 degrees -- I would change the lockout unless it's smart and can work with the HP if needed.
With constant changes in the industry it's hard to keep up with all the slight changes ... but, depending on application the can make a difference.
I have mine set for low constant circulation -- since it's zoned (3) w/dampers. All the dampers stay open unless one of the zones calls. I find this keeps the house a consistent temp .. and the unit goes into 1st and 2nd occasionally.
I don't have anything zoned, but we are a family of 6, so we keep everything about the same temp. My HVAC guy locked it out at 5 degrees. He said it will heat down to that without issue.
FYI to the original poster, I bought an Amana HP & air airhandler 9.5 years ago. The original HVAC company that did the install came out and verified the compressor was shot. They called up Amana and 3 days later they installed a brand new heat pump, yes the entire heatpump, not just a compressor. It cost me $400 instead of $4000 if I had to buy it myself. I was frustrated it failed at 9.5 years, but very happy Amana replaced the entire unit. From what I understand, most other companies would have only replaced the failed component.
This is even sweeter for us, because we're putting our house on the market in the next couple weeks!
We had a 16 SEER unit. My HVAC guy said he's happy to install a 18 or higher, but didn't push them due to the extra cost & complexity vs energy savings.
FYI to the original poster, I bought an Amana HP & air airhandler 9.5 years ago. The original HVAC company that did the install came out and verified the compressor was shot. They called up Amana and 3 days later they installed a brand new heat pump, yes the entire heatpump, not just a compressor. It cost me $400 instead of $4000 if I had to buy it myself. I was frustrated it failed at 9.5 years, but very happy Amana replaced the entire unit. From what I understand, most other companies would have only replaced the failed component.
This is even sweeter for us, because we're putting our house on the market in the next couple weeks!
We had a 16 SEER unit. My HVAC guy said he's happy to install a 18 or higher, but didn't push them due to the extra cost & complexity vs energy savings.
That's awesome. Thanks for the info!!!
ebaer
New member
So I ended up installing the Bosch BVA-36WN1 with a BOVA-60HDN1.
I oversized the condenser and decided not to install heat strips.
The system is quiet and very well made.
My challenge is reaching the set point temperature. It replaced a 20 year old Carrier, 3ton.
Set to 73 but living room is hovering around 76 per the main thermostat until late in the evening when it eventually reaches the desired temp. Humidity is 48%. Since my master bedroom is too cold and I replaced all ductwork (the old one was moldy) I am assuming for now that the issue is air flow.
There were two supply registers whose old flex duct was severely crushed and I left it without replacement but I guess those two were probably still getting some air out after all and probably made the difference for the living room. Those two registers were located in the kitchen as secondary supply and the other one was in the powder room. Both rooms are right off the living room.
The living room is vaulted into the second story so as a test over the weekend I installed a temporary return all the way up in the vaulted ceiling area but it did not make a difference which brings me back to the supply side.
I oversized the condenser and decided not to install heat strips.
The system is quiet and very well made.
My challenge is reaching the set point temperature. It replaced a 20 year old Carrier, 3ton.
Set to 73 but living room is hovering around 76 per the main thermostat until late in the evening when it eventually reaches the desired temp. Humidity is 48%. Since my master bedroom is too cold and I replaced all ductwork (the old one was moldy) I am assuming for now that the issue is air flow.
There were two supply registers whose old flex duct was severely crushed and I left it without replacement but I guess those two were probably still getting some air out after all and probably made the difference for the living room. Those two registers were located in the kitchen as secondary supply and the other one was in the powder room. Both rooms are right off the living room.
The living room is vaulted into the second story so as a test over the weekend I installed a temporary return all the way up in the vaulted ceiling area but it did not make a difference which brings me back to the supply side.
I looked at the Bosch Inverters also, but ended up with the Amana for a couple different reasons. It really does sound like yours may be the supply side. Have you look at the duct work to see if you have any obstructions or how it's connected to the trunk?
You put in a heat pump with no aux heat? What if you need emergency heat?
What company in their right mind installed that?
do you have aux heat on your gas furnace? what if YOU need emergency heat?
Why would you want Aux heat with an oversized inverter system? the whole point of aux heat is that it doesn't make sense or is a bad idea to put in a non-modulating heat pump big enough to provide 100% of your heat on the 99.999% day.
The newer high end heat pumps don't need the strips for heating backup under normal conditions. I guess a case could be made for having strips in cold climates for unit failure to avoid freezing pipes ..etc.
It wasn't much money at all to have them included... I had them put in my inverter heat pump just in case. I'm a bit further north than he is though.
I don't have a gas furnace, i have an air handler with a heat pump. Neither does the poster who said he didnt use heat strips, he does not have a gas furnace either (unless he put the wrong model # down)
Need the strips to run a defrost cycle or have emergency heat if needed.
I don't have a gas furnace, i have an air handler with a heat pump. Neither does the poster who said he didnt use heat strips, he does not have a gas furnace either (unless he put the wrong model # down)
Need the strips to run a defrost cycle or have emergency heat if needed.
my unit does not need to strips for defrosting ... as I said, a case could be made should the unit fail.
that argument is valid for ANY non-electric resistance heat source though.
If you're not replacing an existing heat strip setup, paying an electrician to pull a permit for two 40A circuits is not trivial.
many modern systems are capable of defrosting an evaporator circuit with hot gas without shutting down and reversing - at least commercial units are, which means it can be done - search for white papers on it - there's even efficiency to be had by not flipping the whole system over to do it.I don't have a gas furnace, i have an air handler with a heat pump. Neither does the poster who said he didnt use heat strips, he does not have a gas furnace either (unless he put the wrong model # down)
Need the strips to run a defrost cycle or have emergency heat if needed.
"mini"splits find a way to do it without blasting cold air, i'm sure there's a way to do it for full-size splits.
justinjoyal
Well-known member
Oversized system, bad ducts, no aux.
Doesnt seem right to me.
Doesnt seem right to me.
im in the mid Atlantic area and i just bought a bova 4-5 ton condenser. I plan on installing it in march or April when the weather is better. It will modulate between 25% and 110% and has a crankcase heater on the compressor. It appears well built but time will tell. the earlier poster stated that you can control the compressor by adjusting the air handler fan speed and that is correct. based on the suction line temp at the condenser it adjusts the compressor speed. this works well if you need it more for heat the ac in the summer because just changing fan speed changes the compressor output. the 5 ton also has an ecm fan on the condenser that followes the compressor output. I will update this after i do the install. I am using it with a 2 stage variable speed goodman gmv95 and will set it up as two stage using my two stage white Rodgers t-stat to change blower speeds which will cause the compressor to ramp up when needed.
danski0224
Well-known member
A little late to the party, and didn't read the whole thread, but Goodman is the largest HVAC manufacturer in the USA, if not North America.
In my opinion, the cabinets and exterior fit and finish is pretty flimsy and cheap.
But the bad rap probably stems more from "just about anybody" being able to purchase and (improperly) install Goodman branded equipment compared to the other so-called big names, and then come to the internet and complain that it is junk.
A poorly installed big name brand is no better than Goodman. A properly installed Goodman is no worse than a big name under the same conditions.
At least Goodman isn't using those micro channel coils, yet. And their TXV valves are field replaceable.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
The first half of that statement is correct. The second part is not. Goodmans are more or less garbage. They come out of the box incorrectly assembled and setup. Blower line voltage power and control wiring are frequently wrong. Blower wheels are installed backwards. Panel screws are stripped out and missing.
Tommy
our Goodman 95% two stage variable furnace was installed in 2006 but has seen very little duty as a gas furnace as we use heat strips for aux and defrost. It has an ecm blower using a GE ecm motor and has been trouble free for 12 years. We have a very large solar install and all of our electricity is free. Currently we are using a 3.5 ton goodman heat pump also installed in 2006 and it only had one issue condensation froze the contractor one time which was an easy fix. i modified the heat pump to demand defrost in 2009 and it has worked great. I am looking forward to installing the new bosh bova 60 and a new 5 ton coil and txv this spring. I suspect i did a good installing this equipment since it has run trouble free for over 12 years now.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Carlb23, I'm just talking about current Goodmans. A unit from when yours was made is much better.
Tommy
Tommy
I wont disagree with you as i have no knowledge of current Goodman equipment. As i am a homeowner and did my own install i only have knowledge of the build quality of the 1 system that i installed and it seemed well built and it has been trouble free. I will be reusing the Goodman GMV furnace and ecm blower and installing a new 5 ton coil with the bosch bova 60 in a few months. I have the condenser and coil just going to wait until the weather get better. I am in no rush as the current heat pump is still working fine.