Heat Shrink Terminals

[Jeeper75]

So, I have been looking at all the threads about wire crimp tools. Now that I have that figured out I am looking for terminals. Where do you get your insulated heat shrink terminals and which ones are good ones? I will be looking for **** connectors, ring terminals, etc. Thanks

 

[55bigblockcid]

http://terminalsupplyco.com/

 

[theoldwizard1]

You can't go wrong with Amp or Molex brand. Amp is now called Tyco Electronics or TE.

Digikey.com and Mouser.com stock them and sell small quantities, but other places do also.

 

[zoomieport]

Thomas and Betts and Panduit make the best.

 

[mark40sw]

I just got a pack of 3M made in USA heat shrink terminals at walmart (automotive section). I got a pack assorted size **** connectors.

Hard to believe walmart had anything but the cheap stuff. First time I have seen them there and don't know how many walmarts carry them. In this type of packaging- (pict is from walmart's web site).

 

[daddy2coull]

At my last place of work we used rayfast terminals. Apparently they supply to F1 teams. They were really good quality and also had waterproof glue inside that helped to seal them

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Get the double wall ones with glue. I went to my local electrical supply and bought three foot lengths in a variety of diameters. I also bought uninsulated crimp on connectors as I feel they make a more secure crimp connection. I cut the heat shrink to the length I need and make sure it covers the crimped end.

Richard

 

[Stinger]

I use non insulated terminals and the double wall (glue inside) marine shrink wrap kit from Harbor Freight. Comes with assorted sizes for a very good price.

 

[Danglerb]

I use non insulated terminals and the double wall (glue inside) marine shrink wrap kit from Harbor Freight. Comes with assorted sizes for a very good price.

Surprised to hear it, but nothing but positive in another thread for the HF marine **** connectors. $2 for a pack of 10.

 

[nanofrog]

Any of the major brands will give good results (Thomas & Betts, Panduit, Molex, 3M, Amp, Tyco), though some are a tad better than others depending on the exact terminal.

One way to get the same thing at a lower cost, is to use non-insulated terminals with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. Not as convenient, but can save you quite a bit of cash, especially if you need to do a lot of them, and the results are just as good.

Biggest trick is the right tooling for the particular terminals being used (lots of different profiles, and there is no such thing as a One-Size-Fits-All that will actually give proper results). Ratcheting crimpers will work best, and preferably, a decent brand that's properly adjusted (Chinese models are all over the place; some make good crimps, some need adjusting, others won't work worth a **** no matter how much you try and adjust it).

To toss out an alternative source for purchasing terminals, take a look at Waytek (their focus is in automotive applications).

 

[nexum1919]

here's another one to spend some time on:
http://www.theelectricaldepot.com/

I agree with using uninsulated connectors and then using a marine grade 3-1 ratio heat shrink to insulate them. i like to visually see and feel the crimp before sealing. 3-1 shrink ratio stuff costs little more and harder to come by but i think it's worth going after.

I also keep those heatshrink connectors, but only use them when there is no access to slip a heat shrink. say you only have access to the tip of a wire or a trying to fix a little section in the middle of a broken wire (think door harnesses)

 

[Brownsfan]

I use 3m connectors terminals electrical tape and heat shrink. No one makes a better electrical tape than 3m

 

[nanofrog]

I use 3m connectors terminals electrical tape and heat shrink. No one makes a better electrical tape than 3m

Silicone Self-Fusing is the best I've ever gotten my mitts on (aka F4 tape).

 

[Alfajuj]

For inline splices, I prefer to use a "Western Union" style splice and then solder, followed by heat shrink.

For other terminals, I prefer the uninsulated ones so I can check the integrity of the crimp before adding the heat shrink.

 

[theoldwizard1]

For inline splices, I prefer to use a "Western Union" style splice and then solder, followed by heat shrink.

The Western Union Splice was designed to use on solid wire, not stranded. Also it is best suited for 16 too 22 AWG.

The point of a Western Union Splice was that solder was not required.

 

[Jeeper75]

Lots of good information here. Thanks everybody

 

[71CJ5]

I've had good luck with the marine heat shrink terminals from HF and the price is right at $2.99/10.

 

[Brownsfan]

Ok I will ask. What's a western union splice? I do auto electrical and never heard of that. Or maybe I have and just call it something else.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Ok I will ask. What's a western union splice? I do auto electrical and never heard of that. Or maybe I have and just call it something else.

 

[nanofrog]

Ok I will ask. What's a western union splice? I do auto electrical and never heard of that. Or maybe I have and just call it something else.

It's also known as a Lineman's Splice. Here's a How-To with some nice pics to show what it looks like.

 

[Brownsfan]

Ahh that's what I called it. Linemans slice. Same thing. Thanks

 

[Alfajuj]

Yeah, try it. They're really mechanically strong, even before you solder them, especially if you expose a bit longer wire. Once it's done, you can test by pulling on them. They really hold, even with stranded wire.

 

[Brownsfan]

Yeah, try it. They're really mechanically strong, even before you solder them, especially if you expose a bit longer wire. Once it's done, you can test by pulling on them. They really hold, even with stranded wire.

Oh I've done that quite a few times. Doing installs in dealer parking lots when my butane runs out or my solder roll goes MIA. It's also been called a military splice I think.