Heat up steel for paint

[toofart]

It's cold season here up north, and painting steel in the relatively cool shop is a challenge. It pains me to have to warm the entire place up (and keep it warm) just so I can paint a steel frame.

I could probably build an enclosure with some plastic and heat the enclosure, but that seems to be more work than I want to do right now.

Does anyone know of a device (or devices) that can be used to heat up and steel frame and keep it warm for paint? I realize the heat will simply radiate off into the air, and that's ok.. I just need to keep the frame around 18*C for paint.

 

[rsanter]

For painting you are better off heating the entire area and get the frame warm. Better results

Bob

 

[that-guy]

would be difficult to keep the part the same general temperature throughout. only thing I can think is to set a designated heater in a confined space with the part for a period of time to get its temp up, then immediately shoot it

 

[classicJackets]

How big are you talking? For small things here, I preheat them by a fire/with a heat gun inside, spray outside, heat gun every few minutes til they're dry enough to bring in and do the same without fuming myself out

 

[toofart]

Trailer frames and large objects like that. I figured there wouldn't be any silver bullets :/ I'll look at making some kind of shower-curtain-like enclosure with some thick poly. The 12' ceilings don't help the heating process so I'll try to make a fake roof too.

 

[mr.wizard]

perhaps an array of IR heaters?

 

[PugetDude]

Make a knockdown booth out of foil-faced 1.5" foamboard... you can use 2x framing connectors for the corners. Put your frame in the booth, warm everything up with a portable electric heater, then unplug the heater, pull a panel and spray away... re-install the panel and turn the heater back on so it stays warm while the paint dries.

 

[Jagmandave]

Uh.....electric heater and paint fumes? Maybe with water based paints but.....

Isn't that why they use infra-red heaters in body shops?

 

[ripperd]

Uh.....electric heater and paint fumes? Maybe with water based paints but.....

Isn't that why they use infra-red heaters in body shops?

I think he means oil filled, like this kind:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Optimus-...-Portable-Heater-H6010/205314136?N=5yc1vZc8od

 

[twohawks]

What PugetDude said... I think you might get away with 1" or even thinner (well enough?) and if you don't want to pop for rails, use some heavy aluminum or plastic (or even cheapo duct -type) tape (don't use shipping tape, or fubar). If you look up 'burning man hexayurt' you'll see how they make full on dwelling structures this way, and they are cheap, well insulated, and strong. Lots of plans around to get great tips on various methods for taping structures.

Of course, those are outdoors and yours wont have the requirement for top-notch tape investment.

Just to mention, to keep from damaging the panel edges, I would pretape them first (after precutting your panels for planned fitment, of course), then tape up your structure.

As far as heat, I assume you understand you want radiant and not forced air, and I think the oil-filled is a solid recommendation, however, I would get something that self-regulates so you can control the inside temperature...

I have had good luck with DeLonghi models. I have those that are totally timer configurable. I don't know if they make these with temperature sensors for regulation, so the timer would be the way to go. My Delonghi Dragon has a dial-timer with full 24 hour on/off management at something like 15 minute intervals, and I can set it to 600/900/1500 watt performance. I live in the mountains and it gets used a lot these last 3 years -- no problems.

HTH

PS: I am new here at the GJ, and this place rocks for finding out stuff about tools. Thanks guys.

 

[twohawks]

PS... you could always use a heating/cooling programmable thermostat outlet (something like this lux for about $40 on amazon) , .......for controlling for near exact target temperature, and then go with the less expensive oil-radiant heater.

 

[PugetDude]

Uh.....electric heater and paint fumes? Maybe with water based paints but.....

Isn't that why they use infra-red heaters in body shops?

Guess I should have specified oil-filled, baseboard or infrared electric heater... But with the right combination of heat source and oil-based fumes, the frames would dry almost instantly...

 

[PugetDude]

What PugetDude said... I think you might get away with 1" or even thinner (well enough?) and if you don't want to pop for rails, use some heavy aluminum or plastic (or even cheapo duct -type) tape (don't use shipping tape, or fubar). If you look up 'burning man hexayurt' you'll see how they make full on dwelling structures this way, and they are cheap, well insulated, and strong. Lots of plans around to get great tips on various methods for taping structures.

Of course, those are outdoors and yours wont have the requirement for top-notch tape investment.

Just to mention, to keep from damaging the panel edges, I would pretape them first (after precutting your panels for planned fitment, of course), then tape up your structure.

As far as heat, I assume you understand you want radiant and not forced air, and I think the oil-filled is a solid recommendation, however, I would get something that self-regulates so you can control the inside temperature...

I have had good luck with DeLonghi models. I have those that are totally timer configurable. I don't know if they make these with temperature sensors for regulation, so the timer would be the way to go. My Delonghi Dragon has a dial-timer with full 24 hour on/off management at something like 15 minute intervals, and I can set it to 600/900/1500 watt performance. I live in the mountains and it gets used a lot these last 3 years -- no problems.

HTH

PS: I am new here at the GJ, and this place rocks for finding out stuff about tools. Thanks guys.

Great advice.
The only reason I suggested 1.5" foam is so standard framing connectors would slip over the foam. With the right corner connectors, you probably wouldn't need any tape.

Welcome to the GJ !

 

[toofart]

Thanks for the suggestions so far. I was looking at radiant heat... problem is, I don't have a dedicated booth for painting -- I'm just painting trailers with rollers and brushes. That foam board looks like a neat idea. I'd have to see if I can make something out of it that I can set up and store fairly easily.

 

[dadsEH]

If you are brush painting just use a heat gun to take the chill off an area to be painted as you go along. I bought the wife a new hair dryer so I could use the old one in the shed. So handy for a lot of fiddely jobs when you need to quick dry stuff as well.

Standing the paint tin in a tub of hot water makes application easier in cold climes.

 

[Nor'Easter]

FYI temporarily heating for application won't help your case much. 18c is 65f so I assume you are using epoxy primer, which can go dormant if not kept warm for a certain amount of time. For example SPI epoxy primer needs a surface temp of 65f (around 68-70f room temp) for 24hrs. to flash off and cure properly.

 

[toofart]

FYI temporarily heating for application won't help your case much. 18c is 65f so I assume you are using epoxy primer, which can go dormant if not kept warm for a certain amount of time. For example SPI epoxy primer needs a surface temp of 65f (around 68-70f room temp) for 24hrs. to flash off and cure properly.

That is a good point.

I'll quit being chincy and just heat the place up. My garage is big but it's well insulated.

 

[twohawks]

Thanks for the 'welcome' PugetDude.
Yeah, I saw 1.5" and wondered on the bulk.

@2oofart: What's nice about the panel with either corner conns OR tape (the way I mentioned, i.e, pretaping the edges) is its easy/quick assembly and disassembly, as well as lightweight flat storage that won't take up much space.

Sorry for the delay... subscriptions were off.

Here's an idea, but I don't know how it may/not fit your space~application... I am building (more like assembling) a "hoop house" outside (kind of an agri-thing) and one of the interesting options I spotted was insulting between two coverings, in this case two tarps, using bubblewrap.

That's right... if you create a semi static airspace, even of only a half inch, using thin sheets (like tarps or plastic) you can manage a stable warm space ...even in very cold temps.

You don't need to use bubble wrap, but the alternative might be a little more work and maintenance. Hopefully that link gives you an idea of what's possible.

Good luck

 

[toplessHO]

large induction heater?

 

[User_Name]

FYI temporarily heating for application won't help your case much. 18c is 65f so I assume you are using epoxy primer, which can go dormant if not kept warm for a certain amount of time. For example SPI epoxy primer needs a surface temp of 65f (around 68-70f room temp) for 24hrs. to flash off and cure properly.

This rings a bell from the SPI user forum. Use an electric blanket after the epoxy is dry to the touch.

http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?2999-Epoxy-priming-in-cool-weather/page3

http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?303-Just-how-critical-is-the-60%B0-cutoff-point/page3

http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?1205-Epoxy-primer-temp/page2

 

[blastguy]

You may want to try this. I don't like painting in my shop so I use a pop up tent. I wrap 3.5 mil clear plastic all around it. I have it placed near the garage door with a exhaust fan. I heat it with a bullet heater using kerosene. Note: Never have the intake side of the heater in the tented area. should have fresh air entering the heater. I have a fresh air breathing mask for painting. I heat the tented area up to 130degrees. shut the heater off, paint and let it sure a bit put the exhaust fan on a bit to get the overspray out and then turn the heater back on. the nice thing about using a pop up tent is you can set it up outside if you want.